lead second pitch. Had to squeeze up a fairly wet chimney. Pretty hard.griffithpatrick - AltLd - 15/Jul/14
Brilliant. Will never do it again but one to remember. Hardly any gear ended up hanging any gear from my belay loop. If you are more than 75kg don't bother
Craigyboy13 - Lead - 09/Jul/14
With my Dad, who came back for a rematch after backing off with his brother many years ago! He led both the chimney pitches this time! What a squeeze! Came out bruised and battered but an unforgetable route! Dont bother taking much gear or helmets!
vertigo714 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Simon Slater
Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Myself!
First pitch blocked by rock, walked round to second pitch, difficult climb chimney, retreated abseiled off after second pitch
chris67 - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/14
Retreated from unpleasant tight and glossy p2.
runwildjohn - Lead dnf - 05/May/14 with Dave Rawlinson
Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/14
Awesome. One pie away from needing rescue from the crack.
Lenny - AltLd dnf - 21/Apr/14 with Phil .N
Lead P1 and P2, abbed off before P3 as was wet and tiny! I'm a 5"3 very small girl and I could just about fit in the P3 chimney with a harness on, but couldn't move up at all!
charlielow - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14 with Jack Knight
Pitches 1 and 2 had a high grovel factor and then we abbed off before pitch 3 as neither of us could fit in the chimney or fancied climbing outside of it
Jack93 - 2nd - 08/Apr/14 with Charlie Low
oldmanofmow - 2014
Nick Biven - 2014
Si - 2014
Hidden - 2014
muppett - 2014
Hidden - 2014
tedswag - 2nd dnf - 16/Nov/13
Did it in 1 pitch - Couldn't get in the crack on p3 so I climbed the aręte to the right. I've climbed easier E1's than this!
BradleyWhite - Lead - 10/Aug/13
morgan91 - 2nd - 10/Aug/13
Nobody is that shape for he second crack, abbed off
Same - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/13
Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/13
What a struggle; I genuinely can not understand the grading of this route! Hardest time, by far, I have had this year!
tmawer - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Graeme, Maz
Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/13
Awesome 'unique' route. My partner couldn't fit in the chimney so we had to climb around to the right and then I lowered down into it and then climbed back out! Don't take any extraneous stuff like trainers, cameras or much of a rack
sheelba - AltLd - 12/Jul/13
lol! nowhere near fitting into the chimney on P3, had to go round the side, my second retreived the gear then i lowered him down into the abyss. Good laugh hearing him grunt his way back up and out. Missed out P4 by accident. Arrrggh midges.
wjcdean - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Sam
Yong_Welsh - AltLd - 10/Jun/13
lead pitch 1 and the third pitch up the super skinny chimney with lodged boulder. some of the best climbing ive done!
JamesLloyd - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13
Hidden - 2013
tim20 - 2013
JamesP - Lead O/S - 2013
Great fun and extremely very very hard, thrutchy madness.
The hardest route I have ever done. Brilliant though.
gd303uk - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Dafydd, Alisingo
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Aug/12
Only when (hopefully) the physical and mental scares fade might this be remembered as epic.
Pete Randall - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with Ian Shaw
Lead P's 1 and 3
georgedunton - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with tom folley
Led Pitches 2 & 4
Tom Folley - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with George Dunton
Hidden - 2nd dnf - Mar/12
alan moore - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Dec/11
The worst route I have ever climbed. What a load of crud. The Abrahams who set this route only did it for a bit of Kudos I reckon. Well they can keep their route and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine!!!!
Daymo - AltLd dog - 19/Nov/11 with Gaz, Len Oakes
Hidden - AltLd - 19/Nov/11
Led pitches 2, 3 & 4. Squeezy!
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Tom Ripley
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11
Epic. I have never had so many bruises after a climb!
Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/11 with tim evans
Absolutely stinking horrible grotty crack climb. 1st pitch funny but very quickly lost sense of humour in a wet muddy frictionless chimney. Don't know how anyone dare put this in a classic climb book. Enough said. P.s YUK
wishicud climbHVS - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Emmit the boss Andrews
farmus21 - AltLd - 28/May/11 with Tim
mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Bob Oldale
ONLY ATTEMPT IF VERY THIN! im not a big guy and no matter how i tried i could not get in to the 3rd pitch!
BobOldale - 2nd dnf - 21/Apr/11
Led second and third pitch as one. Had to do variation on third pitch, couldn't get in the chimney!
richardcreagh - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/11
amthalmann - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Richard
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Ally Hurst
Hidden - 2011
Rory Shaw - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
PAJames - 2011
PAJames - 2011
Hidden - 2011
djromberg - 2011
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Sep/10
P3 is tight! Didn't put any gear in until a long way up where I used a thread and a prussik loop as a runner, in case John couldn't get up. Turned out he couldn't, so lowered him all the way down after I'd placed some gear at the top of the Chimney on P4. I've got a 32" waist and nearly a 40" chest, but just about got through ok with a harness on. If you can chimney in between holds it isn't that hard!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with John L
Kyle F - 2nd - 16/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10
Probably easier as a solo, as you can squeeze into the chimneys without any gear getting in the way, but pretty damn scary on the main, deep, slippery chimmney. Fun once it was over!
catblack - Solo - 24/Jun/10 with Andy Barker
A fantastic thrutch.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Cat Black
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/10
gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with andy woolston
Did the first and last pitch, couldn't get in the crack so did the column to the right.
Chris Perry - AltLd O/S - 28/May/10
second time round after poor weather previously. dubious onsight! neither of us could wriggle into the crack/chimney, so we took the cop-out. later at the pub we learned you have to negative harnesses and rack to fit! bonkers!
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 28/May/10 with Kit Perry
hands SHOULDERS KNEES and toes....and armbars
mynyddresident - AltLd - 25/May/10
laughable.. litteraly a sick joke.. grade is meaningless..
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10
Ivan Muckle - Lead - 23/May/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10
Led P1 and 2 - followed the left hand chimney. Couldn't do P3, so thanks to the foresight of the leader I did De Selincourt's variation. Much much better.
JasonV - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10 with Phil
MarkFoster - Lead - May/10
Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/10
Led first pitch then ab'd off to go climb in the sunshine
Laura-lou - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Paul Shepherd
Me P1 & P2 in one pitch. John P3, but took the cheats way round rather than the chimney.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 16/Apr/10 with John Carlin
wanted to continue the entertaining struggle, but we were 4; one was doing first ever outdoor climb, one couldnt get up P2 and one couldn't fit in P3, so after 2,5 hrs we settled for a pint instead:-) Will be back!
Sardien - AltLd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Rob Mills, Hilarry Ford, Beattie
innesmac - 2010
retreated due to weather
rustaldo - AltLd dnf - 15/Dec/09 with Kit Perry
got to 1st stance then had to retreat because of darkness.
Chris Perry - AltLd dnf - 15/Dec/09
Hjort - AltLd dnf - 03/Nov/09 with Michael Weaver
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 13/Sep/09
Couldn't fit into the chimney on third pitch
christensena - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/09
Caving and pitch 2 brilliant fun! Couldn't get into P3 at all and gave up after about 1/2 hr. Only for the really, really skinny!
Spillers - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Jake
1st pitch, great fun caving, 2nd pitch great "behind head" gear, 3rd pitch.......RUN!!
Jakey4060 - AltLd dnf - 12/Sep/09 with Tom Silsbury
simon_williams6 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/09
Probably about right for a severe but not regular climbing! Couldn't get into the P3 chimney so went right which seemed the better / nicer choice.
jezb1 - Lead - 27/Jul/09
mike_uk82 - 2nd - 25/Jul/09
Gave up the top pitch. Very tiring off-width. Couldn't get inside the crack. Amazingly difficult for a severe.
Skinny Kin - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/09 with Ed Russell
Jon Pilling - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Si Williams
Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jun/09
matt.woodfield - AltLd - 30/May/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09
whiting.jp - AltLd - 25/May/09 with jamesca
Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 24/May/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/09
dan gibson - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/09
More than a severe, more of an upward shuffle than rock climbing. Couldn't get in the top chimney so opted for the step right, which feels much more like severe grade rock climbing. A truly traditional route with a bit of everything on offer.
aide - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Dave Con
Pitch 3 was shit! A horrible climb. A Severe?? No way! Went round right.
dannymoo99 - AltLd - 10/Apr/09 with Tom Shooter
Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/09
Gareth T - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Greg
Hidden - 2nd dog - Oct/08
benchwarmer - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/08 with Justina
peggy_on_the_rocks - 2nd - Sep/08 with Dan
Climbed first 2 pitches but fitting into the 3rd was impossable for both of us. abseiled off
thompson1000 - Lead - 14/Jul/08
Abbed off April 07 as 2nd couldn't get (/fit) up 2nd pitch. Led pitches 1 and (3-4), but stepped out right on third pitch as I'm now certain I'm not a catapiller!
mitch - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/08 with Deirdre Ninaber
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/08
lol, hardest severe in the world? tried to do pitch 3 without going far enough into the crack cuz we didn't have the guide book.. defiantly gonna come back to this...
adam06 - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/08 with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts
stefan7n - 2nd dnf - 09/Jun/08 with The Radcliff, Sarah
my Friend who had spent the week prior to out ascent onsighting several E3's said pitch 3 was "the hardest thing he'd done all week" needless to say I opted for the variation.
ebdon - Lead - 01/Jun/08
tumbling wizard - Jun/08
alwyn101 - AltLd dnf - 06/May/08 with Dilwyn Jones
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/May/08
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 03/May/08
I can't quite decide whether this was really great fun of absolutely horrible - a bit of both I suspect.
I think the topo in the N Wales Rock guide is a bit misleading - the line is shown going up the corner crack system immediately R of the wee tree but this is really hard & out of character with the rest of the route (I fell off it!). The chimney on the R fits the description better and is much more in keeping with the rest of the route.
Neil Adams - AltLd - 03/Nov/07 with Cider Nut
I lead pitch two and the notorious pitch three chimney. I'm really skinny and I only just got in that crack. It's polished (or eroded by water?) and quite a hard section. Perhaps I didn't have the sequence. It felt hard but I'm not sure the moves are hard. I think it's just the confines of the space.
tommyzero - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Sir Rich Mc Rich
Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/07
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/07
I lead the first pitch
Ben Sidsaph - AltLd - 09/Jun/07 with Andy Beverly
Tried to fit into the chimney on the third pitch - too small! It's about 20cm wide, widening a bit at the back... Did de(somebody) alternative instead.
ducle - Lead dog - 26/May/07 with Jenny Young
sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 03/May/07 with Will Malcolm, Nicholas Dave
Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 03/May/07 with sophie wilmes, david nicholas
jenniyoung - May/07 with Duc
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07
tumbling wizard - Lead - Apr/07
Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/07
the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/07 with james marjot
brighters - 2007
fran04 - AltLd - 2007
a real pig of a climb... very hard for the grade!!!
deanroberts - 2nd dog - 2007
Sean Kelly - 2007
Severe my arse!! Probably not helped by wet rock. Got to go back and do it when it's dry
Rob Laird - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with AJ
Oh my God!!!! Can't believe I survived the final chimney crack! Fun...kinda..
beegsyboy - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Eccie + Lewis
Emm, what can i say..... possibly the most entertaining struggle on the planet, well worth doing!!!!
Neil Mackenzie - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Tim + Lewis
A battle and a half but possibly the most fun route i tried that week in ogwen
lewisl - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Tim and Bell
mikelaing - 2006
tried it twice failed twice.
emlynroberts - AltLd dnf - 2006 with Katie, Si Creer
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/05
david morse - AltLd - Oct/05 with chris todd
bigie bob - Lead O/S - Jul/05
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/05
You've just not done this route, unless you've dogged it, got jammed in the crack; when the only that gets you through it is the idea of mountain rescue turning up with the lube!
Clucky - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/05 with Daniel O'Neill; Drew Withey
stuartf - Mar/05
Hidden - AltLd - 2005
Hidden - 2005
kp64zl - Lead - Oct/04 with Oliver Imray, Chris Imray
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Jul/03
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03
We used the L/H crack to start, awkward, but less polished than the original, at the top the fun starts! If doing the inside route take off your harness and drag it in after you (unless you're super skinny). The crack opens up inside and includes a fixed wire. Headtorch may be useful.
rob wmc - AltLd O/S - May/03 with Andy
Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - Mar/03
Brown - Solo O/S - 2002
Tarquin - 2002
petekeron - Lead O/S - 2002
MjrTom - Lead - 2001
Stone Muppet - 2001
fenn123 - 2001
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/00
marcoleptic - 2000
Tight - had to remove my fleece to get in the crack.
BenTiffin - Lead - 03/Sep/98
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/98
Hidden - Solo - 04/Oct/97
Hidden - Lead - 1997
TobyA - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with Miia
big - 02/Jul/95
snowy_woodruff - 26/Apr/95
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/93
timreynolds - Lead - 12/Oct/91 with Eric Sneyd
Martyn - Lead O/S - 1991
OMSKB - Lead - Jun/89
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1989
Andy Say - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/88
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/87 with pete roberts
Backinthegame - Lead O/S - Apr/86 with Dad
nigehughes - Lead - Jul/84 with Paul Fowles
wynaptomos - Solo - Jul/84
sadams - AltLd - 15/Aug/83 with Plas y Brenin Course
Nigel Bond - Lead - 16/May/82 with Charlie Leverton
DJ 1 adn 4. Me 2 adn 3
Richard Weller - AltLd - 25/Aug/81 with D Jones
Hidden - 1981
Hidden - 1981
Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Feb/80 with Sarah Bridge
charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 13/Jun/79
Brian Wilderspin - Solo - 20/Sep/78
Ian Jones - Solo rpt - Sep/78 with Chris Newton
Bolt Phobia - Lead - 09/May/77
Hammy - AltLd - 16/Apr/77 with Jonathon Stacey
mikej - AltLd - 31/Oct/76 with Geoff Williams
Hidden - 1976
Hidden - Lead - 1976
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jun/73 with Bill Dean
Hidden - Jun/73
tapley - Lead - 15/Jun/69
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 07/Aug/68 with John Stainforth
A real squeeze
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1965 with John Jones
David Smith - Lead - May/64 with John Sargeant