chris cockbain 11/Aug AltLd O/S


Tom Draude 11/Aug AltLd O/S
with Chris Cockbain
Hidden 14/Jul Lead O/S
static266 29/Jun Lead dnf

First 2 pitches only

adamre12 18/Apr AltLd dnf

James P1, me P2. Couldnt fit into the final chimney at all, had to ab off. Shame really because P3 looked really good...

Hidden 14/Apr AltLd dnf
Hidden 28/Feb 2nd dnf
Alex Wade 28/Feb Lead dnf

Fun into through cave, which would have been much easier without a harness and gear. Entertaining struggle with the chimney on 2nd pitch, couldn't fit inside chimney on 3rd pitch. Tried climbing outside right to cut back in, but then the weather came in so bailed.

Samuel Wainwright 22/Feb AltLd dnf

In a total blizzard. After an icy tussle we broke the second pitch but snow pouring down the chimney forced a retreat. We'll be back!

with Rafe Osborne
UncleMephisto 21/Feb AltLd dnf

Grade A misery. Wrestling a pig in a paddling pool of warm butter would be easier. Bring your sense of humour along for this one.

Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
beeney 28/Sep/14 2nd


with Tom
TomGB 27/Sep/14 Lead dnf

just about cursed my way up p2. Nowhere near fitting into the chimney on pitch 3. Ridiculous, only the cadaverous need apply.

Binder 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Pretty scary jamming myself into the crack, but a reassuring widening at the back.

with Andrew R, Tom L, Tim C
Tubs 20/Sep/14 2nd β

Nearly had a panic attack when I got wedged horizontally. Obviously 3 stars.

with George
Bill Lawrence 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Dave, Mick, rob cooper, andy lawrence
M000W 07/Sep/14 2nd
wi11 02/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Hardest climb I've done all year!

with Sabby
K Dawg 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Couldnt fit into pitch three, Tom went in and seconded up the outside of the crack.

with Tom
rushy11111918 15/Aug/14 2nd dnf

Needed a hoist up the final pitch, which was an unspeakable chimney climb, which it now seems I attempted facing the wrong of most unpleasant outdoor climbing experiences I've ever had!

with TOM (Guide)
drysori 09/Aug/14 Solo
soph 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
griffithpatrick 15/Jul/14 AltLd

lead second pitch. Had to squeeze up a fairly wet chimney. Pretty hard.

Craigyboy13 09/Jul/14 Lead

Brilliant. Will never do it again but one to remember. Hardly any gear ended up hanging any gear from my belay loop. If you are more than 75kg don't bother

Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
simonsclimbing 22/Jun/14 AltLd β
Ewan Russell 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
with Myself!
chris67 08/Jun/14 2nd dnf

First pitch blocked by rock, walked round to second pitch, difficult climb chimney, retreated abseiled off after second pitch

HB-Pencil 05/Jun/14 2nd
runwildjohn 05/May/14 Lead dnf

Retreated from unpleasant tight and glossy p2.

with Dave Rawlinson
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Lenny 21/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

Awesome. One pie away from needing rescue from the crack.

with Phil .N
charlielow 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lead P1 and P2, abbed off before P3 as was wet and tiny! I'm a 5"3 very small girl and I could just about fit in the P3 chimney with a harness on, but couldn't move up at all!

Jack93 08/Apr/14 2nd

Pitches 1 and 2 had a high grovel factor and then we abbed off before pitch 3 as neither of us could fit in the chimney or fancied climbing outside of it

oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
tedswag 16/Nov/13 2nd dnf
BradleyWhite 10/Aug/13 Lead

Did it in 1 pitch - Couldn't get in the crack on p3 so I climbed the aręte to the right. I've climbed easier E1's than this!

morgan91 10/Aug/13 2nd
Same 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Nobody is that shape for he second crack, abbed off

Hidden 15/Jul/13 2nd dog
tmawer 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

What a struggle; I genuinely can not understand the grading of this route! Hardest time, by far, I have had this year!

with Graeme, Maz
MazElden 14/Jul/13 2nd dog

Speechless!!!! Hardest route I have ever done!!

sheelba 12/Jul/13 AltLd

Awesome 'unique' route. My partner couldn't fit in the chimney so we had to climb around to the right and then I lowered down into it and then climbed back out! Don't take any extraneous stuff like trainers, cameras or much of a rack

wjcdean 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lol! nowhere near fitting into the chimney on P3, had to go round the side, my second retreived the gear then i lowered him down into the abyss. Good laugh hearing him grunt his way back up and out. Missed out P4 by accident. Arrrggh midges.

Yong_Welsh 10/Jun/13 AltLd


JamesLloyd 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1 and the third pitch up the super skinny chimney with lodged boulder. some of the best climbing ive done!

Hidden ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
JamesP ??/2013 Lead O/S
gd303uk 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great fun and extremely very very hard, thrutchy madness. The hardest route I have ever done. Brilliant though.

with Dafydd, Birdie Num Num
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
Pete Randall 11/Aug/12 AltLd

Only when (hopefully) the physical and mental scares fade might this be remembered as epic.

with Ian Shaw
georgedunton 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P's 1 and 3

Tom Folley 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 2 & 4

Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd dnf
alan moore ??/2012 -


Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd
Daymo 19/Nov/11 AltLd dog

The worst route I have ever climbed. What a load of crud. The Abrahams who set this route only did it for a bit of Kudos I reckon. Well they can keep their route and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine!!!!

Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd
victim of mathematics 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 3 & 4. Squeezy!

Hidden 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 03/Jul/11 2nd dog

Epic. I have never had so many bruises after a climb!

wishicud climbHVS 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely stinking horrible grotty crack climb. 1st pitch funny but very quickly lost sense of humour in a wet muddy frictionless chimney. Don't know how anyone dare put this in a classic climb book. Enough said. P.s YUK

farmus21 28/May/11 AltLd


with Tim
mcglenr25 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Epic adventure!

with Bob Oldale
BobOldale 21/Apr/11 2nd dnf

ONLY ATTEMPT IF VERY THIN! im not a big guy and no matter how i tried i could not get in to the 3rd pitch!

richardcreagh 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led second and third pitch as one. Had to do variation on third pitch, couldn't get in the chimney!

amthalmann 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 26/Sep/10 AltLd
Cardi 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

P3 is tight! Didn't put any gear in until a long way up where I used a thread and a prussik loop as a runner, in case John couldn't get up. Turned out he couldn't, so lowered him all the way down after I'd placed some gear at the top of the Chimney on P4. I've got a 32" waist and nearly a 40" chest, but just about got through ok with a harness on. If you can chimney in between holds it isn't that hard!

with John L
Kyle F 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
catblack 24/Jun/10 Solo

Probably easier as a solo, as you can squeeze into the chimneys without any gear getting in the way, but pretty damn scary on the main, deep, slippery chimmney. Fun once it was over!

Andrew Barker 24/Jun/10 Solo O/S

A fantastic thrutch.

Hidden 24/Jun/10 AltLd
gordon henderson 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with andy woolston
Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
rustaldo 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

second time round after poor weather previously. dubious onsight! neither of us could wriggle into the crack/chimney, so we took the cop-out. later at the pub we learned you have to negative harnesses and rack to fit! bonkers!

mynyddresident 25/May/10 AltLd

hands SHOULDERS KNEES and toes....and armbars

wolf.leeb 25/May/10 AltLd O/S

laughable.. litteraly a sick joke.. grade is meaningless..

Ivan Muckle 23/May/10 Lead
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
JasonV 01/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 2 - followed the left hand chimney. Couldn't do P3, so thanks to the foresight of the leader I did De Selincourt's variation. Much much better.

with Phil
MarkFoster ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead
Laura-lou 17/Apr/10 Lead

Led first pitch then ab'd off to go climb in the sunshine

hellboundblr 16/Apr/10 AltLd

Me P1 & P2 in one pitch. John P3, but took the cheats way round rather than the chimney.

with John Carlin
Sardien 13/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

wanted to continue the entertaining struggle, but we were 4; one was doing first ever outdoor climb, one couldnt get up P2 and one couldn't fit in P3, so after 2,5 hrs we settled for a pint instead:-) Will be back!

with Rob Mills, Hilarry Ford, Beattie
innesmac ??/2010 -
rustaldo 15/Dec/09 AltLd dnf

retreated due to weather

Hidden 15/Dec/09 AltLd dnf
Hjort 03/Nov/09 AltLd dnf

Bit wet

with Michael Weaver
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd dnf
christensena 13/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Couldn't fit into the chimney on third pitch

Spillers 12/Sep/09 Lead

Caving and pitch 2 brilliant fun! Couldn't get into P3 at all and gave up after about 1/2 hr. Only for the really, really skinny!

with Jake
Jakey4060 12/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

1st pitch, great fun caving, 2nd pitch great "behind head" gear, 3rd pitch.......RUN!!

simon_williams6 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S
jezb1 27/Jul/09 Lead

Probably about right for a severe but not regular climbing! Couldn't get into the P3 chimney so went right which seemed the better / nicer choice.

mike_uk82 25/Jul/09 2nd
Skinny Kin 29/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Gave up the top pitch. Very tiring off-width. Couldn't get inside the crack. Amazingly difficult for a severe.

with Ed Russell
Jon Pilling 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Si Williams
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
matt.woodfield 30/May/09 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/09 AltLd O/S 25/May/09 AltLd
with jamesca
Sgt. Vest 24/May/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 20/Apr/09 Solo O/S
aide 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

More than a severe, more of an upward shuffle than rock climbing. Couldn't get in the top chimney so opted for the step right, which feels much more like severe grade rock climbing. A truly traditional route with a bit of everything on offer.

with Dave Con
dannymoo99 10/Apr/09 AltLd

Pitch 3 was shit! A horrible climb. A Severe?? No way! Went round right.

with Tom Shooter
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead
Gareth T 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Greg
Greg Jones ?/Oct/08 2nd dog

Wouls not suggest this one if you have more then a 30' waist.

with Gareth Thomas
benchwarmer 14/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with Justina
peggy_on_the_rocks ?/Sep/08 2nd
with Dan
thompson1000 14/Jul/08 Lead

Climbed first 2 pitches but fitting into the 3rd was impossable for both of us. abseiled off

mitch 20/Jun/08 AltLd rpt

Abbed off April 07 as 2nd couldn't get (/fit) up 2nd pitch. Led pitches 1 and (3-4), but stepped out right on third pitch as I'm now certain I'm not a catapiller!

Hidden 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
adam06 09/Jun/08 Lead dnf

lol, hardest severe in the world? tried to do pitch 3 without going far enough into the crack cuz we didn't have the guide book.. defiantly gonna come back to this...

with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts
stefan7n 09/Jun/08 2nd dnf


with The Radcliff, Sarah
ebdon 01/Jun/08 Lead

my Friend who had spent the week prior to out ascent onsighting several E3's said pitch 3 was "the hardest thing he'd done all week" needless to say I opted for the variation.

tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
alwyn101 06/May/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden 06/May/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden 03/May/08 AltLd dnf
Rob Davies ?/May/08 2nd

Omer is skinny and fitted in easily. I tried the 1905 offwidth variation, straight up, but it was too hard!

with Omer (BMC)
Neil Adams 03/Nov/07 AltLd

I can't quite decide whether this was really great fun of absolutely horrible - a bit of both I suspect. I think the topo in the N Wales Rock guide is a bit misleading - the line is shown going up the corner crack system immediately R of the wee tree but this is really hard & out of character with the rest of the route (I fell off it!). The chimney on the R fits the description better and is much more in keeping with the rest of the route.

tommyzero 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

I lead pitch two and the notorious pitch three chimney. I'm really skinny and I only just got in that crack. It's polished (or eroded by water?) and quite a hard section. Perhaps I didn't have the sequence. It felt hard but I'm not sure the moves are hard. I think it's just the confines of the space.

with Sir Rich Mc Rich
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/07 AltLd
Ben Sidsaph 09/Jun/07 AltLd

I lead the first pitch

with Andy Beverly
ducle 26/May/07 Lead dog

Tried to fit into the chimney on the third pitch - too small! It's about 20cm wide, widening a bit at the back... Did de(somebody) alternative instead.

with Jenny Young
Hidden 03/May/07 AltLd O/S
Sgt. Vest 03/May/07 AltLd O/S
with sophie wilmes, david nicholas
jenniyoung ?/May/07 -
with Duc
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd dog
Rob Davies ?/Apr/07 Lead

Unable to get inside top chimney, despite trying to slide in horizontally - my chest is bigger than in 1975. Finished up De Selincourt's Variation

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
brighters ??/2007 -
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
deanroberts ??/2007 2nd dog

a real pig of a climb... very hard for the grade!!!

Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
Rob Laird 12/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

Severe my arse!! Probably not helped by wet rock. Got to go back and do it when it's dry

with AJ
beegsyboy 08/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Oh my God!!!! Can't believe I survived the final chimney crack! Fun...kinda..

with Eccie + Lewis
Neil Mackenzie 08/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Emm, what can i say..... possibly the most entertaining struggle on the planet, well worth doing!!!!

with Tim + Lewis
lewisl 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S

A battle and a half but possibly the most fun route i tried that week in ogwen

with Tim and Bell
mikelaing ??/2006 -
emlynroberts ??/2006 AltLd dnf

tried it twice failed twice.

with Katie, Si Creer
Hidden 15/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Oct/05 AltLd
with chris todd
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Possibly the greatest route in the entire world!

Clucky 10/Jun/05 AltLd dog

You've just not done this route, unless you've dogged it, got jammed in the crack; when the only that gets you through it is the idea of mountain rescue turning up with the lube!

with Daniel O'Neill; Drew Withey
stuartf ?/Mar/05 -
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 -
kp64zl ?/Oct/04 Lead
with Oliver Imray, Chris Imray
lost.arrow 09/May/04 -
Mark Riley ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 25/Jun/03 AltLd

No way was I fitting into that crack, despite numerous attempts. Luckily we had a copy of the Ogwen Guide with us. De Selincourts Variation providing a suitable alternative pitch, but did miss out the point of the climb. Recommended climb for stick-thin climbers carrying no kit.

Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
rob wmc ?/May/03 AltLd O/S

We used the L/H crack to start, awkward, but less polished than the original, at the top the fun starts! If doing the inside route take off your harness and drag it in after you (unless you're super skinny). The crack opens up inside and includes a fixed wire. Headtorch may be useful.

with Andy
Ben1983 ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
Alastair Hudson 04/Jan/02 Lead O/S
with Clare Young
Brown ??/2002 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
petekeron ??/2002 Lead O/S


MjrTom ??/2001 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
fenn123 ??/2001 -
Hidden 16/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 -
BenTiffin 03/Sep/98 Lead

Tight - had to remove my fleece to get in the crack.

Hidden 02/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/97 Solo
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
TobyA 15/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Miia
big 02/Jul/95 -
snowy_woodruff 26/Apr/95 -
Hidden 30/Jan/93 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 12/Oct/91 Lead
with Eric Sneyd
Martyn ??/1991 Lead O/S
OMSKB ?/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 2nd O/S
Andy Say 29/Jun/88 Solo O/S
michael burrows 09/Aug/87 AltLd rpt
with pete roberts
Backinthegame ?/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Dad
nigehughes ?/Jul/84 Lead
with Paul Fowles
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Solo
sadams 15/Aug/83 AltLd
with Plas y Brenin Course
Nigel Bond 16/May/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Richard Weller 25/Aug/81 AltLd

DJ 1 adn 4. Me 2 adn 3

with D Jones
Hidden ??/1981 -
Norman_P_W ??/1981 -
with Bob M
Mark Kemball 09/Feb/80 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
charlesmfrench 13/Jun/79 Solo O/S
Brian Wilderspin 20/Sep/78 Solo
Ian Jones ?/Sep/78 Solo rpt
with Chris Newton
Bolt Phobia 09/May/77 Lead
Hammy 16/Apr/77 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
mikej 31/Oct/76 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Hidden ??/1976 -
Hidden ??/1976 Lead
Rob Davies 15/Feb/75 AltLd

Stripped down to shirt on a cold day to get inside top chimney. Paul unable to follow in boots because his feet were too big.

with Paul Welford (ICMC), Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Rob Davies 12/Sep/73 Lead dnf

In boots 1st groove would have been very hard

with Allan Sleight
Ian Jones ?/Jun/73 Lead O/S

Utterly exhausting!

with Bill Dean
Hidden ?/Jun/73 -
tapley 15/Jun/69 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 07/Aug/68 AltLd
with John Stainforth
auldscotal ??/1965 AltLd O/S

A real squeeze

with John Jones
uphillnow ?/May/64 Lead

whit monday

with John Sargeant
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Votes cast 49
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