Monolith Crack** HS
[Nice and snug, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Practically ungradable, it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Move up behind the monolith and squirm away until you can escape out of the top and belay.
2) 9m. Ascend the chimney, which is no pushover, to belay on a ledge below the final slot.
3) 11m. Face right and slither into the depths of the chimney. Somehow make upwards progress to be reborn through a hole behind a chockstone. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch.

Photo: Nice and snug © Evin O'Riordain
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This climb is in 226 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

chris cockbain - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15

Tom Draude - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Chris Cockbain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/15

First 2 pitches only
static266 - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/15

James P1, me P2. Couldnt fit into the final chimney at all, had to ab off. Shame really because P3 looked really good...
adamre12 - AltLd dnf - 18/Apr/15 with James Ayres

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 14/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 28/Feb/15

Fun into through cave, which would have been much easier without a harness and gear. Entertaining struggle with the chimney on 2nd pitch, couldn't fit inside chimney on 3rd pitch. Tried climbing outside right to cut back in, but then the weather came in so bailed.
Alex Wade - Lead dnf - 28/Feb/15 with Leah Hewitt

In a total blizzard. After an icy tussle we broke the second pitch but snow pouring down the chimney forced a retreat. We'll be back!
Samuel Wainwright - AltLd dnf - 22/Feb/15 with Rafe Osborne

Grade A misery. Wrestling a pig in a paddling pool of warm butter would be easier. Bring your sense of humour along for this one.
UncleMephisto - AltLd dnf - 21/Feb/15 with Sam Wainwright

Tim Sparrow - 2015

beeney - 2nd - 28/Sep/14 with Tom

just about cursed my way up p2. Nowhere near fitting into the chimney on pitch 3. Ridiculous, only the cadaverous need apply.
TomGB - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/14

Brilliant! Pretty scary jamming myself into the crack, but a reassuring widening at the back.
Binder - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Andrew R, Tom L, Tim C

Nearly had a panic attack when I got wedged horizontally. Obviously 3 stars.
Tubs - 2nd β - 20/Sep/14 with George

Bill Lawrence - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Dave, Mick, rob cooper, andy lawrence

M000W - 2nd - 07/Sep/14

Hardest climb I've done all year!
wi11 - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Sabby

Couldnt fit into pitch three, Tom went in and seconded up the outside of the crack.
K Dawg - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Tom

Needed a hoist up the final pitch, which was an unspeakable chimney climb, which it now seems I attempted facing the wrong of most unpleasant outdoor climbing experiences I've ever had!
rushy11111918 - 2nd dnf - 15/Aug/14 with TOM (Guide)

drysori - Solo - 09/Aug/14

soph - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Will Treasure

lead second pitch. Had to squeeze up a fairly wet chimney. Pretty hard.
griffithpatrick - AltLd - 15/Jul/14

Brilliant. Will never do it again but one to remember. Hardly any gear ended up hanging any gear from my belay loop. If you are more than 75kg don't bother
Craigyboy13 - Lead - 09/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14

simonsclimbing - AltLd β - 22/Jun/14

Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Myself!

First pitch blocked by rock, walked round to second pitch, difficult climb chimney, retreated abseiled off after second pitch
chris67 - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/14

HB-Pencil - 2nd - 05/Jun/14

Retreated from unpleasant tight and glossy p2.
runwildjohn - Lead dnf - 05/May/14 with Dave Rawlinson

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/14

Awesome. One pie away from needing rescue from the crack.
Lenny - AltLd dnf - 21/Apr/14 with Phil .N

Lead P1 and P2, abbed off before P3 as was wet and tiny! I'm a 5"3 very small girl and I could just about fit in the P3 chimney with a harness on, but couldn't move up at all!
charlielow - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14 with Jack Knight

Pitches 1 and 2 had a high grovel factor and then we abbed off before pitch 3 as neither of us could fit in the chimney or fancied climbing outside of it
Jack93 - 2nd - 08/Apr/14 with Charlie Low

oldmanofmow - 2014

Nick Biven - 2014

Si - 2014

Hidden - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Hidden - 2014

tedswag - 2nd dnf - 16/Nov/13

Did it in 1 pitch - Couldn't get in the crack on p3 so I climbed the aręte to the right. I've climbed easier E1's than this!
BradleyWhite - Lead - 10/Aug/13

morgan91 - 2nd - 10/Aug/13

Nobody is that shape for he second crack, abbed off
Same - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/13

What a struggle; I genuinely can not understand the grading of this route! Hardest time, by far, I have had this year!
tmawer - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Graeme, Maz

Speechless!!!! Hardest route I have ever done!!
MazElden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/13 with Tony Mawer, Graeme

Awesome 'unique' route. My partner couldn't fit in the chimney so we had to climb around to the right and then I lowered down into it and then climbed back out! Don't take any extraneous stuff like trainers, cameras or much of a rack
sheelba - AltLd - 12/Jul/13

lol! nowhere near fitting into the chimney on P3, had to go round the side, my second retreived the gear then i lowered him down into the abyss. Good laugh hearing him grunt his way back up and out. Missed out P4 by accident. Arrrggh midges.
wjcdean - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Sam Collins

Yong_Welsh - AltLd - 10/Jun/13

lead pitch 1 and the third pitch up the super skinny chimney with lodged boulder. some of the best climbing ive done!
JamesLloyd - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

tim20 - 2013

JamesP - Lead O/S - 2013

Great fun and extremely very very hard, thrutchy madness. The hardest route I have ever done. Brilliant though.
gd303uk - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Dafydd, Alisingo

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Aug/12

Only when (hopefully) the physical and mental scares fade might this be remembered as epic.
Pete Randall - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with Ian Shaw

Lead P's 1 and 3
georgedunton - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with tom folley

Led Pitches 2 & 4
Tom Folley - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with George Dunton

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Mar/12

alan moore - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Dec/11

The worst route I have ever climbed. What a load of crud. The Abrahams who set this route only did it for a bit of Kudos I reckon. Well they can keep their route and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine!!!!
Daymo - AltLd dog - 19/Nov/11 with Gaz, Len Oakes

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Nov/11

Led pitches 2, 3 & 4. Squeezy!
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Epic. I have never had so many bruises after a climb!
Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/11 with tim evans

Absolutely stinking horrible grotty crack climb. 1st pitch funny but very quickly lost sense of humour in a wet muddy frictionless chimney. Don't know how anyone dare put this in a classic climb book. Enough said. P.s YUK
wishicud climbHVS - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Emmit the boss Andrews

farmus21 - AltLd - 28/May/11 with Tim

Epic adventure!
mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Bob Oldale

ONLY ATTEMPT IF VERY THIN! im not a big guy and no matter how i tried i could not get in to the 3rd pitch!
BobOldale - 2nd dnf - 21/Apr/11

Led second and third pitch as one. Had to do variation on third pitch, couldn't get in the chimney!
richardcreagh - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/11

amthalmann - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Richard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11

AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Sep/10

P3 is tight! Didn't put any gear in until a long way up where I used a thread and a prussik loop as a runner, in case John couldn't get up. Turned out he couldn't, so lowered him all the way down after I'd placed some gear at the top of the Chimney on P4. I've got a 32" waist and nearly a 40" chest, but just about got through ok with a harness on. If you can chimney in between holds it isn't that hard!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with John L

Kyle F - 2nd - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10

Probably easier as a solo, as you can squeeze into the chimneys without any gear getting in the way, but pretty damn scary on the main, deep, slippery chimmney. Fun once it was over!
catblack - Solo - 24/Jun/10 with Andy Barker

A fantastic thrutch.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Cat Black

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/10

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with andy woolston

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/10

second time round after poor weather previously. dubious onsight! neither of us could wriggle into the crack/chimney, so we took the cop-out. later at the pub we learned you have to negative harnesses and rack to fit! bonkers!
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 28/May/10 with Kit Perry

hands SHOULDERS KNEES and toes....and armbars
mynyddresident - AltLd - 25/May/10

laughable.. litteraly a sick joke.. grade is meaningless..
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

Ivan Muckle - Lead - 23/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10

Led P1 and 2 - followed the left hand chimney. Couldn't do P3, so thanks to the foresight of the leader I did De Selincourt's variation. Much much better.
JasonV - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10 with Phil

MarkFoster - Lead - May/10

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/10

Led first pitch then ab'd off to go climb in the sunshine
Laura-lou - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Paul Shepherd

Me P1 & P2 in one pitch. John P3, but took the cheats way round rather than the chimney.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 16/Apr/10 with John Carlin

wanted to continue the entertaining struggle, but we were 4; one was doing first ever outdoor climb, one couldnt get up P2 and one couldn't fit in P3, so after 2,5 hrs we settled for a pint instead:-) Will be back!
Sardien - AltLd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Rob Mills, Hilarry Ford, Beattie

innesmac - 2010

retreated due to weather
rustaldo - AltLd dnf - 15/Dec/09 with Kit Perry

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Dec/09

Bit wet
Hjort - AltLd dnf - 03/Nov/09 with Michael Weaver

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 13/Sep/09

Couldn't fit into the chimney on third pitch
christensena - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/09

Caving and pitch 2 brilliant fun! Couldn't get into P3 at all and gave up after about 1/2 hr. Only for the really, really skinny!
Spillers - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Jake

1st pitch, great fun caving, 2nd pitch great "behind head" gear, 3rd pitch.......RUN!!
Jakey4060 - AltLd dnf - 12/Sep/09 with Tom Silsbury

simon_williams6 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/09

Probably about right for a severe but not regular climbing! Couldn't get into the P3 chimney so went right which seemed the better / nicer choice.
jezb1 - Lead - 27/Jul/09

mike_uk82 - 2nd - 25/Jul/09

Gave up the top pitch. Very tiring off-width. Couldn't get inside the crack. Amazingly difficult for a severe.
Skinny Kin - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/09 with Ed Russell

Jon Pilling - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Si Williams

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jun/09

matt.woodfield - AltLd - 30/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 - AltLd - 25/May/09 with jamesca

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 24/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/09

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/09

More than a severe, more of an upward shuffle than rock climbing. Couldn't get in the top chimney so opted for the step right, which feels much more like severe grade rock climbing. A truly traditional route with a bit of everything on offer.
aide - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Dave Con

Pitch 3 was shit! A horrible climb. A Severe?? No way! Went round right.
dannymoo99 - AltLd - 10/Apr/09 with Tom Shooter

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/09

Gareth T - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Greg

Wouls not suggest this one if you have more then a 30' waist.
Greg Jones - 2nd dog - Oct/08 with Gareth Thomas

benchwarmer - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/08 with Justina

peggy_on_the_rocks - 2nd - Sep/08 with Dan

Climbed first 2 pitches but fitting into the 3rd was impossable for both of us. abseiled off
thompson1000 - Lead - 14/Jul/08

Abbed off April 07 as 2nd couldn't get (/fit) up 2nd pitch. Led pitches 1 and (3-4), but stepped out right on third pitch as I'm now certain I'm not a catapiller!
mitch - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/08 with Deirdre Ninaber

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/08

lol, hardest severe in the world? tried to do pitch 3 without going far enough into the crack cuz we didn't have the guide book.. defiantly gonna come back to this...
adam06 - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/08 with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts

stefan7n - 2nd dnf - 09/Jun/08 with The Radcliff, Sarah

my Friend who had spent the week prior to out ascent onsighting several E3's said pitch 3 was "the hardest thing he'd done all week" needless to say I opted for the variation.
ebdon - Lead - 01/Jun/08

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

alwyn101 - AltLd dnf - 06/May/08 with Dilwyn Jones

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/May/08

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 03/May/08

I can't quite decide whether this was really great fun of absolutely horrible - a bit of both I suspect. I think the topo in the N Wales Rock guide is a bit misleading - the line is shown going up the corner crack system immediately R of the wee tree but this is really hard & out of character with the rest of the route (I fell off it!). The chimney on the R fits the description better and is much more in keeping with the rest of the route.
Neil Adams - AltLd - 03/Nov/07 with Cider Nut

I lead pitch two and the notorious pitch three chimney. I'm really skinny and I only just got in that crack. It's polished (or eroded by water?) and quite a hard section. Perhaps I didn't have the sequence. It felt hard but I'm not sure the moves are hard. I think it's just the confines of the space.
tommyzero - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Sir Rich Mc Rich

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/07

I lead the first pitch
Ben Sidsaph - AltLd - 09/Jun/07 with Andy Beverly

Tried to fit into the chimney on the third pitch - too small! It's about 20cm wide, widening a bit at the back... Did de(somebody) alternative instead.
ducle - Lead dog - 26/May/07 with Jenny Young

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/07

Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 03/May/07 with sophie wilmes, david nicholas

jenniyoung - May/07 with Duc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07

tumbling wizard - Lead - Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/07

brighters - 2007

fran04 - AltLd - 2007

a real pig of a climb... very hard for the grade!!!
deanroberts - 2nd dog - 2007

Sean Kelly - 2007

Severe my arse!! Probably not helped by wet rock. Got to go back and do it when it's dry
Rob Laird - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with AJ

Oh my God!!!! Can't believe I survived the final chimney crack! Fun...kinda..
beegsyboy - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Eccie + Lewis

Emm, what can i say..... possibly the most entertaining struggle on the planet, well worth doing!!!!
Neil Mackenzie - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Tim + Lewis

A battle and a half but possibly the most fun route i tried that week in ogwen
lewisl - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Tim and Bell

mikelaing - 2006

tried it twice failed twice.
emlynroberts - AltLd dnf - 2006 with Katie, Si Creer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/05

david morse - AltLd - Oct/05 with chris todd

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Possibly the greatest route in the entire world!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - Jul/05

You've just not done this route, unless you've dogged it, got jammed in the crack; when the only that gets you through it is the idea of mountain rescue turning up with the lube!
Clucky - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/05 with Daniel O'Neill; Drew Withey

stuartf - Mar/05

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - 2005

kp64zl - Lead - Oct/04 with Oliver Imray, Chris Imray

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Jul/03

No way was I fitting into that crack, despite numerous attempts. Luckily we had a copy of the Ogwen Guide with us. De Selincourts Variation providing a suitable alternative pitch, but did miss out the point of the climb. Recommended climb for stick-thin climbers carrying no kit.
jimshrimp - AltLd - 25/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

We used the L/H crack to start, awkward, but less polished than the original, at the top the fun starts! If doing the inside route take off your harness and drag it in after you (unless you're super skinny). The crack opens up inside and includes a fixed wire. Headtorch may be useful.
rob wmc - AltLd O/S - May/03 with Andy

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - Mar/03

Alastair Hudson - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/02 with Clare Young

Brown - Solo O/S - 2002

Hidden - 2002

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2002

MjrTom - Lead - 2001

Stone Muppet - 2001

fenn123 - 2001

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/00

marcoleptic - 2000

Tight - had to remove my fleece to get in the crack.
BenTiffin - Lead - 03/Sep/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/98

Hidden - Solo - 04/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead - 1997

TobyA - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with Miia

big - 02/Jul/95

snowy_woodruff - 26/Apr/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/93

timreynolds - Lead - 12/Oct/91 with Eric Sneyd

Martyn - Lead O/S - 1991

OMSKB - Lead - Jun/89

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1989

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/88

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/87 with pete roberts

Backinthegame - Lead O/S - Apr/86 with Dad

nigehughes - Lead - Jul/84 with Paul Fowles

wynaptomos - Solo - Jul/84

sadams - AltLd - 15/Aug/83 with Plas y Brenin Course

Nigel Bond - Lead - 16/May/82 with Charlie Leverton

DJ 1 adn 4. Me 2 adn 3
Richard Weller - AltLd - 25/Aug/81 with D Jones

Hidden - 1981

Norman_P_W - 1981 with Bob M

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Feb/80 with Sarah Bridge

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 13/Jun/79

Brian Wilderspin - Solo - 20/Sep/78

Ian Jones - Solo rpt - Sep/78 with Chris Newton

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 09/May/77

Hammy - AltLd - 16/Apr/77 with Jonathon Stacey

mikej - AltLd - 31/Oct/76 with Geoff Williams

Hidden - 1976

Hidden - Lead - 1976

Utterly exhausting!
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jun/73 with Bill Dean

Hidden - Jun/73

tapley - Lead - 15/Jun/69

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 07/Aug/68 with John Stainforth

A real squeeze
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1965 with John Jones

whit monday
uphillnow - Lead - May/64 with John Sargeant

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 103
hard VS0 of 49
VS0 of 49
easy VS0 of 49
hard HS2 of 49
HS0 of 49
easy HS17 of 49
hard S17 of 49
S10 of 49
easy S1 of 49
hard HVD1 of 49
HVD1 of 49
easy HVD0 of 49
3 Stars31 of 54
2 Stars6 of 54
1 Star5 of 54
0 Stars1 of 54
Bag of .....11 of 54
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat