UKC

Rockfax Description
Practically ungradeable - it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Head up into the abyss and move up and left behind the monolith to re-emerge on its left below another chimney.
2) 9m. The next chimney is tighter and leads to a ledge below a continuation of the same chimney.
3) 13m. A fearsome chimney which stops many attempts. Face right and squeeze into the chimney. It gets wider if you go deeper and you can struggle upwards for daylight and air!
3a) DeSelincourt's Variation, VS. 13m. For those who didn't manage the chimney. From the ledge, step right and climb to a mantel onto the quartz slab.
4) 9m. Above the quartz slab is one final chimney. Thankfully, it is easy in comparison to the ones below. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Thrutch and Clutch , Type 2 Fun , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Weird and Wonderful , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Crack Fueled Rampage

Feedback

User Date Notes
willdoballbaggins 14 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Too people reading the beta at the base of the 3rd pitch and thinking \"what?!?! NO GEAR\".... There is. Loads of the stuff, just blindly look around with your hands and you\'ll find it. Enjoy the squirm.
Show beta
βeta: Too people reading the beta at the base of the 3rd pitch and thinking "what?!?! NO GEAR".... There is. Loads of the stuff, just blindly look around with your hands and you'll find it. Enjoy the squirm.
Deano.Nev 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A rather interesting route... enjoy ?
Show beta
βeta: A rather interesting route... enjoy ?
myrddinmuse 23 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: To put it simply, I'm (too) fat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To put it simply, I'm (too) fat.
Moody Loner 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Show beta
βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Tadams 23 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
Show beta
βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
PastyBoy84 14 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet)

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tennis Shoe

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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