Avon > Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Buttress) >
GT Special** E4 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< What's It Called?
Nemo Me Impune Lacessit >>
[GT Special on a chilly February afternoon, 3 kb]A challenging pitch that makes a direct assault on the black bulges. Start as for Limbo beneath the black bulges. 41m. Climb to the ledges beneath the black bulges and locate a series of pockets that breach them on their left side. Difficult climbing and fiddly gear accesses the easier wall above and a horizontal break. Continue direct up a thin crack in a smooth, white wall and then via a small groove that leads to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © ROCKFAX
A Sharp, S Lewis 26/Oct/1976

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: GT Special on a chilly February afternoon © Justin T
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Soft, but brilliant, really, really good
Pippa - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/14 with Richard Bennett

Superb. Steep,perfect gear all the way and pretty easy to place. Very steady for E3
just one more - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/14 with Max B

jon_ridley - 2nd - 07/Aug/14 with Dave Clare, Geoff Pyatt

couple of falls but lead it from the ledge once i found an extra pocket.
grp - Lead - 07/Aug/14 with jon_ridley

davidclare - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/14 with Geoff Pyatt, Jon Ridley

The easiest E4 in the world! Fair at middle of the grade E3 and significantly easier than Lyme Cryme that I did a couple of weeks earlier. The climbing is never too hard or too pumpy, with good holds to blast through the bulge and rests every so often above, although interest is certainly maintained. Some great moves and positions make for a very good route. I thought the cams below the bulge were questionable (I got three of them in) but Phil spent 10 minutes getting one of them out so can't have been that hard. The wires is it above the bulge were so-so as well but above that there was decent gear. So E3 is fair for the gear but the climbing is more like a hardish E2. Certainly nowhere near dangerous or hard enough for E4 5c! In the end, almost ran out of extenders. Several cams 0.3 would have been useful.
Misha - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Phil

Soooo soft for E4. 3 stiff pulls and a sustained 5b 5m section. Gear for crux far from poor - took 10 minutes to get cam out of pocket. Minor departure due to breaking hold at top.
philhilo - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with misha

Checked the gear in the bulge while abbing from the previous route. Got completely boxed first go trying to find the right holds. Lowered down to the ledge, then led through. So and old-skool yo-yo? Really good climbing through the bulge. A few of the holds are difficult to see from below, but it's all there.
Alex Winter - Lead - 25/Sep/13 with Andy

Billg - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/13 with Megan Beaumont

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 27/Sep/12 with Marti999

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12

Really nice involving but steady climbing prob E3/4 5c or safe F6c ish?
Justin T - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Crispin

just keeps on going, pumpy all the way from the first bulge to the top - it never lets up!
hms - 2nd β - 14/Sep/11 with Tom

Soft. Just a bit pumpy on the bulge, plenty of gear if you can place it.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/11 with helen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Jon Didymus

Great lead by Barry. Superb route.
ericinbristol - 2nd β - 26/Apr/10 with Barry Durston

Aaron Lines - 2nd O/S - 2010 with frank ramsay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/06

Paz - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/05 with TE

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/04

Billg - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/01 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead β - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/99

lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/97 with tombawimba

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/88

DDDD - 1987

andy gittins - 1984

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/82

Hidden - 1980

steve L - 2nd - 25/Sep/76 with sharpie

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Hidden, andy dunn, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 47
hard E50 of 16
E50 of 16
easy E50 of 16
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E48 of 16
hard E36 of 16
E31 of 16
easy E31 of 16
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c1 of 15
5c10 of 15
easy 5c4 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
3 Stars1 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star3 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead23 of 36 (63.9%)
Followed9 of 36 (25.0%)
Unknown4 of 36 (11.1%)

'Climbed'10 of 36 (27.8%)
clean O/S20 of 36 (55.6%)
clean β3 of 36 (8.3%)
clean rpt1 of 36 (2.8%)
dogged2 of 36 (5.6%)