Rockfax Description
A challenging pitch that makes a direct assault on the black bulges. Start as for Limbo beneath the black bulges.
Climb to the ledges beneath the black bulges and locate a series of pockets that breach them on their left side. Difficult climbing and fiddly gear accesses the easier wall above and a horizontal break. Continue direct up a thin crack in a smooth, white wall and then via a small groove that leads to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

A Sharp, S Lewis 26/Oct/1976

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Nick Russell 15/Oct Lead O/S

Agree with previous comments that this is well soft for E4, in fact I'd say E3 5c really. Good climbing, quite pumpy but there are rests every so often above the bulge. I didn't bother to stop and fiddle with gear in the bulge, just placed a few pieces below and blasted on through.

steve_gibbs 15/Oct 2nd O/S
with Nick Russel
Bristoldave 02/May Lead O/S
with john
John Tanner 02/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr Lead O/S
Alex Winter 04/Feb 2nd rpt

The jugs at the end of the sequence through the bulge are very loose.

with Ian Cooper
i_a_coops 04/Feb Lead O/S
with Alex
LucasHarazin 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Jess Broadhurst
Pippa 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Soft, but brilliant, really, really good

with Richard Bennett
just one more 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Superb. Steep,perfect gear all the way and pretty easy to place. Very steady for E3

with Max B
jon_ridley 07/Aug/14 2nd
grp 07/Aug/14 Lead

couple of falls but lead it from the ledge once i found an extra pocket.

davidclare 07/Aug/14 2nd dog
Misha 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

The easiest E4 in the world! Fair at middle of the grade E3 and significantly easier than Lyme Cryme that I did a couple of weeks earlier. The climbing is never too hard or too pumpy, with good holds to blast through the bulge and rests every so often above, although interest is certainly maintained. Some great moves and positions make for a very good route. I thought the cams below the bulge were questionable (I got three of them in) but Phil spent 10 minutes getting one of them out so can't have been that hard. The wires is it above the bulge were so-so as well but above that there was decent gear. So E3 is fair for the gear but the climbing is more like a hardish E2. Certainly nowhere near dangerous or hard enough for E4 5c! In the end, almost ran out of extenders. Several cams 0.3 would have been useful.

with Phil
philhilo 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Soooo soft for E4. 3 stiff pulls and a sustained 5b 5m section. Gear for crux far from poor - took 10 minutes to get cam out of pocket. Minor departure due to breaking hold at top.

with misha
Alex Winter 25/Sep/13 Lead

Got completely boxed first go trying to fiddle in gear on the crux. Lowered down to the ledge, then led through. Good climbing through the bulge, but the line at the top is a bit vague.

with Andy
Billg 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Marti999 27/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
debbie roberts 27/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Justin T 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Really nice involving but steady climbing prob E3/4 5c or safe F6c ish?

with Crispin
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd β
thomasadixon 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Soft. Just a bit pumpy on the bulge, plenty of gear if you can place it.

with helen
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
richiebongo 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
ericinbristol 26/Apr/10 2nd β

Great lead by Barry. Superb route.

with Barry Durston
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Paz 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with TE
Hidden 24/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Billg 16/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
Tim M ??/2000 Lead β
Hidden 16/May/99 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 13/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with tombawimba
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/88 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1987 -
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
steve L 25/Sep/76 2nd
with sharpie
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hawkgirl, Hidden, Kipper-Phil Smith, EyebrowTom, Richard Justice, Owen W-G, Hidden, andy dunn, Hidden, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set