Highway One*** E4 6a
[Highway One, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Take a few small wires, although the bulk of the hard climbing is bolt protected. Start on blocks below a thin left-slanting seam.
40m. Follow the thin, left-slanting seam (wires) until just before a big flake-crack that comes in from the left. Now follow the line of bolts rightwards up a shallow depression to a steep finish.
Photo opposite. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Best climb on the crag, a real gem.
The diagonal line, starting on the left wall to the slab.
First clip is high and a hard move just below it, so either stickclip or use a small wire near the start.
Worth doing at this grade.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Highway One © Pylon King Against Capit@lism
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Nov/14

BenWilliams96 - Lead β - 09/Jul/14

Super unusual sport climbing, most of the actual holds feel pretty solid now, just flaky bits around and about, doesn't detract atall from the sublime sequences! The crux rockover after the niche took a while to suss out, pretty blank and thin, and after that it's just steady and joyous all the way to the top!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Adam

Lots of very loose small flakes - far more than before. First ascent after the winter?
bpmclimb - TR β - 24/Feb/14 with Shunt

I found this hard right from the start, with difficulty reading the moves. Had a couple of goes at the move above the third bolt, then retreated. Need to come back with a better attitude.
Nick Russell - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/13

E4 6a in guide - i'd say E4 6b would be right. Full on sustained snappy climbing which would be tough Fr7a somewhere else. Felt like a trad route especially with the snappy holds, addded to the overal experience though. Dont ab off as it's a pain the in the arse.
wolverine - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Thunderthighsontheloose

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Oct/12

tobydunford - Lead RP - 15/Sep/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Almost got on first attempt. Felt like top end 7a. Very good route.
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 08/Sep/12 with Tom

Should have got this really, guess I'll have to come back! Good climbing, definately 7a (E4's the right grade though...).
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 08/Sep/12 with Becca

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Jul/12

With a sadistic view to testing out his holding-a-fall belay technique, Ollie forced me into trying A Route For The People which turned out not to be, for me at least! After a brave effort, which included changing boots whilst dangling from a bolt, I gave up and worked my way back to the first crack to head up Highway One instead. Memory fades, but 11 years since I last did this Im sure that a vital fingernail flake on the 2nd crux has gone making it more of a challenge now than the original guidebook 6a. The top flake crack was wet but was a romp compared to dealing with the continually erupting ulcerated rock below. An excellent well protected line with holds comparable to the Hogwarts staircases ever changing.
KRB - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Oliver Bridges

Great line and good moves, but let down by the poor rock. Could really do with a new belay.
Billg - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Alan Rosier

billb - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with Rich Smith

Tough at the grade, also was a little spooked even seconding.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Pip

Hold came off by the first bolt, rest of it was clean
Pippa - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Gareth

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11

nice slab climbing. prob harder for cellar dwellars but grade right compared to slabs in france
Matt Clifton - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10

significantly harder than 6c+
andy dunn - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/10 with J

Snappy - took big lob at the second bolt when hold came off and another pendulum fall on the delicate crux moves out of the niche rest. Hard F6c+. Lead next time.
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/10 with Rich

Lead this about two years ago with one fall and so returned today to put it to bed. It has definitely got harder. I pulled off at least 3 holds on my ascent alone and Jon pulled off another hold seconding it. The crux now is leaving the halfway ledge which is desperate, i'd say English 6b. Good route though.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 21/Oct/10

Some pre-placed runners at the start after someone else backed off. Seems like every hold that isn't essential comes off if you touch it. Still *** tho!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Tom I, pete

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jul/10

bpmclimb - Lead dog - 28/May/10 with Clare

T ny - Lead - 2010

T ny - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Jul/09

led to 2nd crux, snapped another hold whilst using it... followed Tim cleanly :) friable
belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 23/Jul/09 with loundsy

chris sm - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/08 with Pippa Froggatt

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Robyn Nelson

tcn_2002 - Lead dog - 15/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jun/07

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

just one more - Lead dog - 22/Jul/05 with tim b

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2005 with Ed Heslam

Paz - Lead O/S - Sep/04 with AS

cornishben - Lead dog - 2004 with Haggis Harris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/02

Belayed by my 11 year old son
KRB - Lead β - 03/Nov/01

shoulders - Lead - 04/Mar/01 with mart, chrisevans, dai

Tim M - 2000

bullybones - 2000

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/99 with Vicky Munn

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/97 with Alice Howe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Roget - Lead dog - 11/Sep/93 with jon

shark - Lead - 03/May/93

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Apr/93

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Apr/93

agreed - it was E4 in 1993 and is probably still E4 judging by comments... see photo of Vickers cruising the Highway.
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/93 with Gareth Parry, Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Dec/92

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Aug/92

whispering nic - May/92 with Graham Iles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

robbie Warke - 1990

steve L - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/84 with Alun Richardson

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, squicky, Ragingpossum, Nick Russell, Jon Didymus, Dean177, JamesRich, Quarryboy, Stanners, desperate_crack, makzimum, Ropeboy, deklan, bpmclimb, oldmanrivers, mwh

Total votes cast 39
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