I think I rested on the rope high up when I tried this about 25 years ago. How is it that a 3 star classic is still shedding loads of rock?
guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15 with paul
Great route! New hands and feet each time as rock is delicate and flakes off.
Deary65 - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/15
Lots of faffing and broken footholds. Definitely worth bringing a second who's in the mood to follow you as abbing for the gear is pretty awkward and probably quite dangerous.
Circus - Lead dog - 03/Jul/15 with Seren
Fell off when an undercut broke going past the fourth bolt, annoying as could have used a better one instead. Pulled back up and finished it. A good line and some decent climbing but what a pile of crappy choss! The rock continually sheds small flakes whenever you touch anything that isn't a well used hold and as I found out some of the holds you do use aren't great either. Incredible really given it's had a decent amount of traffic. Anyone who thinks this is a three star route needs to climb on some good rock! One star at most in my book. Instead of wasting time on this, should have carried on to Sharpnose earlier, would have had more time there on proper three star routes! Abbed off the old bolt (needs a back up really), a 60m rope gets you to the floor. My first and last visit to Portishead Quarry...
Misha - Lead dog - 27/Jun/15 with Phil
Tried to lead it, nearly made it through the crux sequence but foot off and into the gully. Time dictated handing over to Misha after I could not get as far on the 2nd and 3rd goes. Hand and footholds coming off constantly, crux jug going next, must be a different grade after each ascent! Nice moves but chossfest.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/15 with misha
To crux, unnerved as needed to use 6th choice hold on lower crux as the first 5 fell off! Lowered off bolt
Bring clipstick next time
rurp - Lead dnf - 12/May/15
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/15
Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Nov/14
BenWilliams96 - Lead β - 09/Jul/14
Super unusual sport climbing, most of the actual holds feel pretty solid now, just flaky bits around and about, doesn't detract atall from the sublime sequences! The crux rockover after the niche took a while to suss out, pretty blank and thin, and after that it's just steady and joyous all the way to the top!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Adam
Lots of very loose small flakes - far more than before. First ascent after the winter?
bpmclimb - TR β - 24/Feb/14 with Shunt
I found this hard right from the start, with difficulty reading the moves. Had a couple of goes at the move above the third bolt, then retreated. Need to come back with a better attitude.
Nick Russell - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13
Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Oct/12
tobydunford - Lead RP - 15/Sep/12 with Kirsty Kerr
Almost got on first attempt. Felt like top end 7a. Very good route.
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 08/Sep/12 with Tom
Should have got this really, guess I'll have to come back! Good climbing, definately 7a (E4's the right grade though...).
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 08/Sep/12 with Becca
Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Jul/12
With a sadistic view to testing out his holding-a-fall belay technique, Ollie forced me into trying A Route For The People – which turned out not to be, for me at least! After a brave effort, which included changing boots whilst dangling from a bolt, I gave up and worked my way back to the first crack to head up Highway One instead. Memory fades, but 11 years since I last did this I’m sure that a vital fingernail flake on the 2nd crux has gone making it more of a challenge now than the original guidebook 6a. The top flake crack was wet but was a romp compared to dealing with the continually erupting ulcerated rock below. An excellent well protected line with holds comparable to the Hogwarts staircases – ever changing.
KRB - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Oliver Bridges
Great line and good moves, but let down by the poor rock. Could really do with a new belay.
Billg - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Alan Rosier
billb - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with Rich Smith
Tough at the grade, also was a little spooked even seconding.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Pip
Hold came off by the first bolt, rest of it was clean
Pippa - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Gareth
Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11
nice slab climbing. prob harder for cellar dwellars but grade right compared to slabs in france
Matt Clifton - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10
significantly harder than 6c+
andy dunn - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/10 with J
Snappy - took big lob at the second bolt when hold came off and another pendulum fall on the delicate crux moves out of the niche rest. Hard F6c+. Lead next time.
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/10 with Rich
Lead this about two years ago with one fall and so returned today to put it to bed. It has definitely got harder. I pulled off at least 3 holds on my ascent alone and Jon pulled off another hold seconding it. The crux now is leaving the halfway ledge which is desperate, i'd say English 6b. Good route though.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 21/Oct/10
Some pre-placed runners at the start after someone else backed off. Seems like every hold that isn't essential comes off if you touch it. Still *** tho!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Tom I, pete
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jul/10
bpmclimb - Lead dog - 28/May/10 with Clare
T ny - Lead - 2010
T ny - 2010
Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Jul/09
led to 2nd crux, snapped another hold whilst using it...
followed Tim cleanly :) friable
belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 23/Jul/09 with loundsy
chris sm - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/08 with Pippa Froggatt
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Robyn Nelson
tcn_2002 - Lead dog - 15/Apr/08
Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jun/07
Marti999 - Lead - 2006
just one more - Lead dog - 22/Jul/05 with tim b
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2005 with Ed Heslam
Paz - Lead O/S - Sep/04 with AS
cornishben - Lead dog - 2004 with Haggis Harris
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/02
Belayed by my 11 year old son
KRB - Lead β - 03/Nov/01
shoulders - Lead - 04/Mar/01 with mart, chrisevans, dai
Tim M - 2000
bullybones - 2000
John Southworth - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/99 with Vicky Munn
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/97 with Alice Howe
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994
Roget - Lead dog - 11/Sep/93 with jon
shark - Lead - 03/May/93
Hidden - Lead β - 13/Apr/93
Hidden - Lead β - 13/Apr/93
agreed - it was E4 in 1993 and is probably still E4 judging by comments... see photo of Vickers cruising the Highway.
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/93 with Gareth Parry, Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Dec/92
Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Aug/92
whispering nic - May/92 with Graham Iles
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990
robbie Warke - 1990
steve L - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/84 with Alun Richardson
Chris Craggs - 1980