Rockfax Description
A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line.
Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.
1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Ollie B 31/Oct Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
Dave Rumney 14/Oct AltLd

less polish and better quality rock than I was expecting

FlavioL1989 04/Oct Lead O/S
with Rob Edwards
andycash 27/Sep Lead O/S
with Daryl nayler
steve-grigg 26/Sep Lead O/S
DaveFidler 26/Sep 2nd O/S

Bit scary!

jon_gill1 12/Sep AltLd O/S

I did p1 and Mart p2. Great route from bottom to top!

with martin johnson
Ginger McGrath 10/Sep 2nd O/S
with steve gibbs
steve_gibbs 08/Sep 2nd rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 08/Sep Lead O/S

Ran it all as one pitch. Great fun. Crux move over the bulge not as hard as I had been lead to believe. It's well protect on massive jugs.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 08/Sep Lead rpt
with Graham McGrath
tim.fairhall 27/Aug 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 27/Aug Lead O/S

Led this after seeing 2 youngish guys have an epic and having to retreat, abbing off the fixed tat or something (f*** that!). I linked both pitches into 1 massive pitch. Only really 1 hard move on the whole route, well protected but bloody hard! I got through the crux but then missed a vital cam placement not long after, ended up so run out I would have hit the deck and probably died before the rope came tight. Scary! Eventually got in some bomber gear and continued into pitch 2, which was very sustained. All in all, excellent route and fun to lead in 1 pitch, just bring lots of gear and slingdraws!

with Tim
will_lake 22/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul Lead RP
Nathan Chrismas 11/Jul 2nd O/S

Lovely stuff. Nice head jam in the cave for a rest.

with Lucas F
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 19/Jun AltLd rpt

Led first pitch. Glad to get it clean as steep cruxes aren't my thing.

with martin Levy
martinlevya82 19/Jun AltLd O/S
toasted 08/Jun AltLd O/S

Tim p1, me p2.

with Tim Larrad
clmacdonald 06/Jun AltLd
Tom Brierley Gore 31/May Lead O/S

Nice quiet traffic free day to climb this :) loved the black pocketed crux, not as technical or hard as limbo but a great climb on good rock that deserves it's stars.

Phil Murray 27/May 2nd O/S

Awesome! Crux was getting gear out.... John ran it into 2 pitches, which was fine :)

with John Alcock
Hugobristol 04/May Lead O/S
with Dave
Dino Dave 04/May AltLd O/S
LJKing 11/Apr 2nd O/S

Tough climbing. Forgot about sprained ankle whilst trying to hang on!

with Paul Clarkson
Eagertom ?/Feb Lead O/S

Hard pulls with lots of gear. Ran pitches together.

with Thom Jenkinson
Graham Westbrook 31/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. Quite pumpy but short lived. Really enjoyed it!

Hidden 16/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
AJ007 16/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 15/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Still fantastic

with Felix
felixizzy 15/Sep/14 Lead β

Real Nice, though it would be harder than it actually was. Ran as one pitch and seemed to go on forever!

with Ben
Mike Kiss 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S

One long lovely pitch. Found it a bit tricky getting gear in at crux

Hidden 30/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
roberts1234567890 20/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 07/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

cem 07/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led p2 this time. Good route but ** IMO.

mick1jones 03/Jun/14 AltLd dog

led 2nd pitch but had one rest at crux on 1st

with Rich Rogers
pheotleyr 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

Found very hard, faffed around far too lang trying to get a runner in at the last big pocket while trying to get my whole body stuck in there. Was completely knackered when I finally pulled out rightwards. Difficulties remain surprisingly long after.

with Mike
Mayaculpa 01/Jun/14 2nd

Brilliant and sustained. Sat on the ropes at the cave. finding the key jug made it possible.

with Peter
LucasHarazin 04/May/14 Lead O/S
just one more 04/May/14 2nd
with lucas
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great route, lead on one big pitch.

philhilo 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, tat looking a bit senior below the hole.

Cheese Monkey 11/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Stuart I
Stuart William 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Done as one pitch.

with Ben D
Aaron Lines 23/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd β
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Martin Haworth 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Martin led as 1 pitch. Brilliant route, the upper 5a groove is sustained and unremitting.

Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Thugtastic! Snapped the head straight off one of the belay pegs so kind of persuaded me to do it in one. Excellent

with Peter
pheotleyr 28/Jul/13 2nd β

Absolutely brilliant, second pitch surprisingly hard.

with Ben
Shone 13/Jun/13 2nd

Finished in the dark

with Rob
steve_gibbs 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 05/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Lead the first pitch, harder than i remembered. Second pitch was harder than i remember as well.

rob.grafton 04/May/13 -
Alex Winter 03/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Stout first pitch

with George
georgeevans88 03/May/13 AltLd O/S
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Sometime in the naughties.

jcw ??/2013 -
Kemics 25/Oct/12 Lead β

Linked in one pitch. (though dithered at the belay for ages deciding to) Warmed up on Limbo so checked to see if it was dry on the ab as it was raining in the morning (Beta) checked a wire placement...oh the shame. Think I traversed out one move to early and had to go up on awkward pinches. The natural line following the big flakey laybacks left from the cave would be much easier. 2nd pitch is probably only 4c

James S 12/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led the first pitch which was excellent, got rained on at the belay but it stopped nicely in time for me to climb the second pitch!

with jamie
zcsharp 12/Sep/12 AltLd

Did the 2nd pitch as soon as it started to rain, which was fine but the 2nd pitch has a lot of vegetation and every hold was wet because of that.

with James S
mattshort 02/Sep/12 AltLd
Alan100 02/Sep/12 AltLd

Stayed left going through the big pocket which made it feel pretty strenuous. Realised on the ab afterwards that going right at the pocket looked a lot easier. Most of the top pitch is a bit of a disappointing thrash through vegetation but it's still a satisfying route.

Billg 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S
richardr 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Bill
CRiddiford 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

first pitch and probably halfish of the second...trying to find the start of the hybrid not realising it starts in middle of p1, really nice pitch anyway, would of been great as one

Jake Young 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
just one more 27/Jul/12 Lead
with Phil K
Pippa 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First pitch then got stuck in torrential rain and then hail

with Richard
Nick Russell 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Got the second, easier pitch. Descending with a single rope is interesting...

with Martin
Mackinclimb 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Awesome. Led it with a big 6m run out through the crux - too pumped to look for gear! Hanging belay was interesting.

gb05 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Glyn 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S

One big pitch, felt quite adventures, it's like jungle up there!

with Amy
LJC 10/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Really damp in the pockets. One for after some dry weather to clean it up.

Ciro 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ramon
Kevster 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. For some reason didn't manage to get the knee-bar rest this time so felt more strenuous. Great route!

aipattison 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

Clay C 29/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Eleri
stephenhartley 03/Oct/11 2nd
with Burns
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Stanners 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. 3 strenuous tugs and its over. Great hanging belay, although got quite painful hanging in air waiting for Jack to second and lead P2. Better than Limbo? - easily as good as.

Quarryboy 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Bloody good route as well! I don't think its as good as Limbo simply because the crux sequence is just a bit too streatforward for my liking the fact that you can get a no hands rest kneebar in the middle of the steep crux section definitely makes it super cool though. and the second pitch features some nice climbing up a grove. I think I'm also right in saying that this is the first route I've done with a hanging belay. (Led pitch 2)

Jessie Rushbrooke 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with GF
Ed Babs 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
mark20 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

As 1 big pitch - good route

Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd
Geoboy 07/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
stvredmond 20/Feb/11 AltLd

led the 1st pitch, nice steep, thuggy climbing, can you stop long enough to place kit ?. 2nd pitch is well worth the effort also

bpmclimb 20/Feb/11 AltLd rpt

Steve led p1

with Steve Redmond
Pete Rigby ?/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Night Climb

jonbwoy ??/2011 -
Stone Muppet 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Hard E1 if stringing the pitches I think. Finished in the dark, but to be fair, the sun had pretty much set before I started.

with Paz
royal 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

First E1 on the same day as my first HVS! Misha led the harder first pitch and I led the second. Lots of good moves through the overhang. I had trouble route finding towards the top, moved left a bit and had some rock break off whilst run out. Luckily didn't peel off with it. Perfect route for my current level, really enjoyed it.

with Misha
Misha 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Good line, big holds and not too hard if you get the footwork right. Great hanging belay. Led P1.

with royal
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd dog
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Si dH 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led in one big pitch (45-50m?) to the big rock anchor. Superb route, keeps going all the way. Suffering from heat exhaustion and two agonising achilles tendons by the end :S

with Andy Morris
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/10 2nd dog

Had a tight rope for a second at the crux, after finding this a bit tough. Maybe I missed a jug, or perhaps the crucial hold was one of those bits of rock that dropped onto my head when the second was doing the crux! Rich led the route.

with Zoe, Richard Lade
Hidden 17/Jun/10 2nd
fishinwater ?/Jun/10 2nd
with Barry
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Clay C 18/May/10 2nd dog
with Eleri
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 21/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 - me Pitch 2 - J Easy climbing up to the ledge, the moves get progressively harder as you pull through the pockets but jugs keep on coming to hand... nice balancy move around the corner to a neat hanging belay.

with J
ericinbristol 16/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Did it as one pitch. Barry broke off the cracked jug exiting the crux while seconding: still about the same grade but slightly harder.

with Barry Durston
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
crobinson 26/Oct/09 AltLd

led 2nd pitch, maybe 5b?

Tom Last 26/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. 2nd pitch quite run out.

with Chester
ruaidh 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

one hard bit at the hole, followed by a balancey move out right. abseiled down from the top belay of hell gates after a traverse back right (P2). v. enjoyable, well recommended.

with Baz
Dan_Carroll 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S

in one pitch. soft for E1.

with Eric Herring
Justin T 25/May/09 Lead O/S

Tidy route ... hands-off rest at the crux ... 2nd pitch a bit scrappy but the first is quality.

with Wifey
gripped01 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Jim Jarvis
ian d f ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Pete B
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 07/Nov/08 Lead dnf

fell off the pockets

with Howard
just one more 19/Oct/08 Lead
with tim b
Al Franks 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Nice first pitch, a shame the second lets it down

Alasdair88 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Greg Pittam
CarolineH 10/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Dave
IceMonkey1982 07/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Climd was good, but don't think it worthy of the stars.

MikeC59 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch.

with Al Franks
bpmclimb 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

We thought this was low in the grade.

with Clare
CarolineH 09/May/08 2nd dog
with Joe
Hidden 13/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 13/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Will lead the first pitch, felt like it would be pretty commiting on lead! Really nice route.

with Will
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
georgeevans88 ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S

nice throughout - good kneebar rest

with Francis
Francis Lister ?/Dec/07 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Nov/07 AltLd
pelvoux 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Mario
maresia 07/Oct/07 AltLd dog

The first pitch was too steep for my puny arms to hang on to while trying to dislodge Mike's stuck nut. Lead the second pitch clean though (even after a bit of gibbering)

AJM 25/Sep/07 Lead β

Had done bits of it before with Paz for the EoP/Oblivion combo. Did p1 and most of p2 as one - stopped a break before the traverse left because I was confused where to traverse. Had to abseil from there though, Ali struggled seconding.

simonf 07/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Traversed across too early on 2nd pitch which added to the fun

with Chris
John Southworth ?/Jul/07 -
Fat Tim 06/Jun/07 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 26/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 25/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
beardy mike ??/2007 Lead O/S
with maresia
danp ??/2007 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2007 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/06 AltLd
with burt
Hidden 30/Jul/06 2nd dog
TimPerkin 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
gonggashan ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Dan Perrott
JasonG ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
Boxy 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Mick
Lev 16/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Cormac McFarlane
Bern ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Paz 19/Sep/05 2nd rpt
with AS
MikeC59 07/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead β
Bux ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
_m.cox_ ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Linked both pitches together

with Chris Savage
KRB 01/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Bridges
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S

Led first pitch

Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

In one very long pitch!!

with Ryan K
furry 24/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
Andrew Barker ?/May/04 AltLd O/S

Month a guess.

with Dave Peachey
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead dog
shoulders 07/Apr/04 Lead O/S
cem 28/Mar/04 AltLd O/S

Led p1

cornishben ?/Jan/04 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with Ian Butterworth
Boxy 08/Nov/03 Lead rpt
with Vince
Hidden 03/Oct/03 -
just one more 03/Oct/03 Lead
with Svenn G
just one more 29/Jun/03 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 10/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Paz 19/Feb/03 Lead O/S

Strang P1 and P2

with TC
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 25/May/02 2nd
pezzerrr ?/Jan/02 Lead O/S
Roget 05/May/01 AltLd rpt
with baccy
Billg 16/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
Hidden 01/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/2000 AltLd
with Dick Hanson
Hidden 19/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
serby ??/1999 Lead
GuySummers ??/1998 -
migs493 04/Oct/97 AltLd O/S
with Steve Blake
colin milton 22/Sep/96 AltLd

lead the easier top pitch

with eric milton
Hidden ??/1996 -
Roget 03/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
with jon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
markpollak ??/1995 Lead O/S
with neil dennison, roy thomas, suzanne mcfadzean
Hidden ?/Oct/94 AltLd
NeilGriffiths 15/May/94 Lead
with jon didymus
Didymus 14/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Rongor
GAtkins 01/Apr/94 2nd
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
AndySL 05/Aug/93 Lead O/S

One of the best routes in the Avon Gorge.

with Pete H
Hidden 20/Mar/93 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
AndyB123 ??/1988 2nd O/S
with Andy E
DDDD ?/May/87 Lead O/S
DDDD ?/May/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily
Pete Nugent 19/Apr/86 Lead
JamieAyres 08/Aug/85 2nd O/S

in 1 pitch.

with Gareth Williams
Nevil ??/1985 -

do not know year

Nigel Coe 29/Sep/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd O/S
tapley 09/Apr/83 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
Hidden ?/Aug/82 2nd
charlesmfrench 25/Apr/82 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Hidden 26/Aug/79 Lead O/S
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 AltLd
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Bob Peters, smartydh9, JoeE, tskelhon, Richard Justice, badgerjockey, Hidden, TB30, Richardlake, JonmapDL, Hidden, web10steelj, iceaxejuggler, Master Chief, Dean177, JamesRich, iforwms, Laramadness, cbeard, Ropeboy, Hidden, explodingsprouts, Owen W-G, poey50, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 64
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set