The Earl Of Perth*** E1 5b
[Earl Of Perth, Suspension Bridge Butress, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.. 1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.. 2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © ROCKFAX
Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Earl Of Perth, Suspension Bridge Butress, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 200 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/14

Still fantastic
Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/14 with Felix

Real Nice, though it would be harder than it actually was. Ran as one pitch and seemed to go on forever!
felixizzy - Lead β - 15/Sep/14 with Ben

One long lovely pitch. Found it a bit tricky getting gear in at crux
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/14

P2
evhall - AltLd rpt - 30/Aug/14 with Mike B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14

Led P1.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Charles Moreton

Led p2 this time. Good route but ** IMO.
cem - AltLd rpt - 07/Jun/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

led 2nd pitch but had one rest at crux on 1st
mick1jones - AltLd dog - 03/Jun/14 with Rich Rogers

Found very hard, faffed around far too lang trying to get a runner in at the last big pocket while trying to get my whole body stuck in there. Was completely knackered when I finally pulled out rightwards. Difficulties remain surprisingly long after.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 01/Jun/14 with Mike

Brilliant and sustained. Sat on the ropes at the cave. finding the key jug made it possible.
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Peter

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

just one more - 2nd - 04/May/14 with lucas

Great route, lead on one big pitch.
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Neil Morbey

Nice route, tat looking a bit senior below the hole.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Helen E, misha

Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/14 with Stuart I

Done as one pitch.
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Ben D

Aaron Lines - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/14 with frank ramsay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14

James Jackson - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Andy

Martin led as 1 pitch. Brilliant route, the upper 5a groove is sustained and unremitting.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Thugtastic! Snapped the head straight off one of the belay pegs so kind of persuaded me to do it in one. Excellent
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Peter

Absolutely brilliant, second pitch surprisingly hard.
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 28/Jul/13 with Ben

Finished in the dark
Shone - 2nd - 13/Jun/13 with Rob

steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13

Lead the first pitch, harder than i remembered. Second pitch was harder than i remember as well.
zcsharp - AltLd rpt - 05/Jun/13 with Steve Gibbs

rob.grafton - 04/May/13

Led P2. Stout first pitch
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13 with George

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13 with Alex Winter

Sometime in the naughties.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2013

jcw - 2013

Linked in one pitch. (though dithered at the belay for ages deciding to) Warmed up on Limbo so checked to see if it was dry on the ab as it was raining in the morning (Beta) checked a wire placement...oh the shame. Think I traversed out one move to early and had to go up on awkward pinches. The natural line following the big flakey laybacks left from the cave would be much easier. 2nd pitch is probably only 4c
Kemics - Lead β - 25/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan

led the first pitch which was excellent, got rained on at the belay but it stopped nicely in time for me to climb the second pitch!
James S - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/12 with jamie

Did the 2nd pitch as soon as it started to rain, which was fine but the 2nd pitch has a lot of vegetation and every hold was wet because of that.
zcsharp - AltLd - 12/Sep/12 with James S

mattshort - AltLd - 02/Sep/12 with Alan Murray

Stayed left going through the big pocket which made it feel pretty strenuous. Realised on the ab afterwards that going right at the pocket looked a lot easier. Most of the top pitch is a bit of a disappointing thrash through vegetation but it's still a satisfying route.
Alan100 - AltLd - 02/Sep/12

Billg - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Richard Ray

In one pitch
richardr - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Bill

first pitch and probably halfish of the second...trying to find the start of the hybrid not realising it starts in middle of p1, really nice pitch anyway, would of been great as one
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Jake Young

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Caroline

First pitch then got stuck in torrential rain and then hail
Pippa - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Richard

Got the second, easier pitch. Descending with a single rope is interesting...
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Martin

Awesome. Led it with a big 6m run out through the crux - too pumped to look for gear! Hanging belay was interesting.
Mackinclimb - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12

gb05 - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Adam Mackintosh

One big pitch, felt quite adventures, it's like jungle up there!
Glyn - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Amy

Really damp in the pockets. One for after some dry weather to clean it up.
LJC - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/12

Ciro - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Ramon

Kevster - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12

Lead P1. For some reason didn't manage to get the knee-bar rest this time so felt more strenuous. Great route!
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12 with Alex Pattison

Led P2.
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12 with George Evans

Clay C - Lead dnf - 29/Oct/11 with Eleri

stephenhartley - 2nd - 03/Oct/11 with Burns

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Led P1. 3 strenuous tugs and its over. Great hanging belay, although got quite painful hanging in air waiting for Jack to second and lead P2. Better than Limbo? - easily as good as.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Bloody good route as well! I don't think its as good as Limbo simply because the crux sequence is just a bit too streatforward for my liking the fact that you can get a no hands rest kneebar in the middle of the steep crux section definitely makes it super cool though. and the second pitch features some nice climbing up a grove. I think I'm also right in saying that this is the first route I've done with a hanging belay. (Led pitch 2)
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with GF

P2
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11

As 1 big pitch - good route
mark20 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Apr/11

Geoboy - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/11

led the 1st pitch, nice steep, thuggy climbing, can you stop long enough to place kit ?. 2nd pitch is well worth the effort also
stvredmond - AltLd - 20/Feb/11 with Brian Mullan

Steve led p1
bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Steve Redmond

Night Climb
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - Jan/11

jonbwoy - 2011

Hard E1 if stringing the pitches I think. Finished in the dark, but to be fair, the sun had pretty much set before I started.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Paz

First E1 on the same day as my first HVS! Misha led the harder first pitch and I led the second. Lots of good moves through the overhang. I had trouble route finding towards the top, moved left a bit and had some rock break off whilst run out. Luckily didn't peel off with it. Perfect route for my current level, really enjoyed it.
royal - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Misha

Good line, big holds and not too hard if you get the footwork right. Great hanging belay. Led P1.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with royal

so knackered after seconding first pitch that I had to rest on lead 2nd - still a brilliant climb
evhall - AltLd dog - 08/Jul/10 with Leandro

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

Led in one big pitch (45-50m?) to the big rock anchor. Superb route, keeps going all the way. Suffering from heat exhaustion and two agonising achilles tendons by the end :S
Si dH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Morris

Had a tight rope for a second at the crux, after finding this a bit tough. Maybe I missed a jug, or perhaps the crucial hold was one of those bits of rock that dropped onto my head when the second was doing the crux! Rich led the route.
Chris Sansum - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/10 with Zoe, Richard Lade

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jun/10

fishinwater - 2nd - Jun/10 with Barry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/10

Clay C - 2nd dog - 18/May/10 with Eleri

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

pitch 1 - me Pitch 2 - J Easy climbing up to the ledge, the moves get progressively harder as you pull through the pockets but jugs keep on coming to hand... nice balancy move around the corner to a neat hanging belay.
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/10 with J

Did it as one pitch. Barry broke off the cracked jug exiting the crux while seconding: still about the same grade but slightly harder.
ericinbristol - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/10 with Barry Durston

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10

Aaron Lines - 2nd O/S - 2010 with frank ramsay

led 2nd pitch, maybe 5b?
crobinson - AltLd - 26/Oct/09 with Queequeg

Led 1st pitch. 2nd pitch quite run out.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/09 with Chester

one hard bit at the hole, followed by a balancey move out right. abseiled down from the top belay of hell gates after a traverse back right (P2). v. enjoyable, well recommended.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Baz

in one pitch. soft for E1.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Eric Herring

Tidy route ... hands-off rest at the crux ... 2nd pitch a bit scrappy but the first is quality.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Wifey

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Jim Jarvis

ian d f - Lead O/S - 2009 with Pete B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

fell off the pockets
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dnf - 07/Nov/08 with Howard

just one more - Lead - 19/Oct/08 with tim b

Nice first pitch, a shame the second lets it down
Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Greg Pittam

Lead first pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Greg Pittam

CarolineH - 2nd rpt - 10/Aug/08 with Dave

Climd was good, but don't think it worthy of the stars.
IceMonkey1982 - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/08

MikeC59 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08

Lead 2nd Pitch.
Greg Pittam - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Al Franks

We thought this was low in the grade.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Clare

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 09/May/08 with Joe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/08

Will lead the first pitch, felt like it would be pretty commiting on lead! Really nice route.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/08 with Will

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

nice throughout - good kneebar rest
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Francis

Francis Lister - 2nd dog - Dec/07 with george evans

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Nov/07

pelvoux - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Mario

The first pitch was too steep for my puny arms to hang on to while trying to dislodge Mike's stuck nut. Lead the second pitch clean though (even after a bit of gibbering)
maresia - AltLd dog - 07/Oct/07 with Mike Kann

Had done bits of it before with Paz for the EoP/Oblivion combo. Did p1 and most of p2 as one - stopped a break before the traverse left because I was confused where to traverse. Had to abseil from there though, Ali struggled seconding.
AJM - Lead β - 25/Sep/07 with Ali Baylay

Traversed across too early on 2nd pitch which added to the fun
simonf - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Chris

John Southworth - Jul/07

Fat Tim - Lead RP - 06/Jun/07 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/07

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/07 with Joe

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2007 with maresia

danp - Lead O/S - 2007

bullybones - Lead O/S - 2007

tonanf - AltLd - Aug/06 with burt

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/06

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Dave Gale

gonggashan - 2nd - Jul/06

JasonG - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Barry Donovan

Boxy - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/06 with Mick

Lev - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/06 with Cormac McFarlane

Bern - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Paz - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/05 with AS

MikeC59 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead β - Aug/05

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Rupert Bassadone

Linked both pitches together
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - May/05 with Chris Savage

KRB - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/05 with Chris Bridges

Led first pitch
tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005 with Alex Barrows

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

In one very long pitch!!
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Ryan K

furry - Lead O/S - 24/May/04 with Neil

Month a guess.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/04 with Dave Peachey

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Apr/04

shoulders - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/04 with andy sharp

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/04 with Graham Dolman

Led first pitch
cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jan/04 with Ian Butterworth

Boxy - Lead rpt - 08/Nov/03 with Vince

Hidden - 03/Oct/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/03

Strang P1 and P2
Paz - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/03 with TC

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/02

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Jan/02

Roget - AltLd rpt - 05/May/01 with baccy

Billg - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/01 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 2000 with Dick Hanson

GuySummers - 1998

lead the easier top pitch
colin milton - AltLd - 22/Sep/96 with eric milton

Hidden - 1996

Roget - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/95 with jon

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

markpollak - Lead O/S - 1995 with neil dennison, roy thomas, suzanne mcfadzean

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/94

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 15/May/94 with jon didymus

Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 14/May/94 with Rongor

GAtkins - 2nd - 01/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead - 1994

One of the best routes in the Avon Gorge.
AndySL - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/93 with Pete H

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Mar/93

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/91

AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 1988 with Andy E

DDDD - Lead O/S - May/87

DDDD - Lead O/S - May/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily

Pete Nugent - Lead - 19/Apr/86

in 1 pitch.
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/85 with Gareth Williams

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 29/Sep/84 with Gordon Jenkin

Hidden - Lead - 1984

tapley - AltLd - 09/Apr/83 with Chris Seymour

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/82

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/82

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1981 with Various

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/79

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

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Voting
Total votes cast 141
hard E20 of 47
E20 of 47
easy E20 of 47
hard E18 of 47
E137 of 47
easy E12 of 47
hard HVS0 of 47
HVS0 of 47
easy HVS0 of 47
hard 5c0 of 47
5c0 of 47
easy 5c0 of 47
hard 5b5 of 47
5b39 of 47
easy 5b3 of 47
hard 5a0 of 47
5a0 of 47
easy 5a0 of 47
3 Stars40 of 47
2 Stars6 of 47
1 Star1 of 47
0 Stars0 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf