Avon > Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Buttress) >
 
Hell Gates*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Howhard
 
Mary Anne Peters >>
[Enjoying resting feet from rock shoes in Avon Gorge (Hell Gates), 3 kb]71m, 3 pitches. Fun and intriguing climbing that gives a memorable outing Start at a ledge just to the left of a slim curving crack on the right side of the face.. 1) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall just left of the crack, joining it at 4m. Follow the crack to ledges and a massive thread just above. Pull steeply through the bulge, thread, and continue past another thread to a body-size circular cave. Belay in the cave, and be sure to search out and sign the visitors' log book. Alternatively; from just below the massive thread, traverse up and rightwards to the base of a small corner and follow this to the lower of two horizontal breaks. Traverse the break left, past a peg, to the body-size circular cave.. 2) 5a, 12m. Climb steeply out of the cave on the right, peg, and follow a short groove to easier ground and belay on a ledge.. 3) 4b, 14m. Traverse left around the exposed arete into a corner (junction with Earl of Perth). Continue traversing left for 5m to a peg and climb up 5m to an abseil point at a large metal rock anchor. © ROCKFAX
Start from the end of a poor path at the lowest part of the buttress. Climb the wall to the left of the obvious curving crack or the crack itself, then move right and climb deep pockets past threads to a belay in a cave. Make steep moves out of the cave into a groove. Climb the groove to a peg belay (this can be backed up with a good nut in the wall above). Some people abseil from this point (although this belay is on 3 vintage and rusty pegs tied with some very faded 11mm rope - make your own decision). The final pitch (4c) traverses the obvious rising break to the abseil point above Suspense. Alternatively you can use an abseil point above Earl of Perth.
Ed Drummond 15/May/1965

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Enjoying resting feet from rock shoes in Avon Gorge (Hell Gates) © Kate Edhouse
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 428 logbooks, and on 47 wishlists.

In the dark the spiders look massive and terrifying
Pippa - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/14 with Richard Bennett

Seconded Bernard.
Andy Manthorpe - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/14

P1 and P2 - ropes in a knot in the cave. By the time sorted was dark which lead to an interesting floodlit decent and no P3.
mossrug - Lead β - 10/Sep/14 with Rob

P1
evhall - AltLd rpt - 30/Aug/14 with Mike B

2nd Pitch
APAPAP - AltLd - Aug/14

twem - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Nicholas Eaton

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Ana

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14

Did P1 & P2 in pitch
Dave Mahon - AltLd - 05/Jul/14 with Matt Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/14

Note that earlier in the year a flake came off just past the peg above the cave (above and to the right); making exiting the cave on the second pitch very much harder than it used to be.
Annabel Tall - 2nd - 23/Jun/14 with Barry Donovan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Matt Roberts

First trad route (second) years ago so went back and lead the first and last pitch - got lost at the end and traversed the whole crag ....
Chazwoz - AltLd β - 14/Jun/14 with Doug Weale

Silly fall from 2m. Got up and led P1&3. Excellent.
danieleaston - AltLd - 13/Jun/14 with Saz

P2 this time. Took a while getting out of cave and into groove!
saz_b - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/14 with Dan Easton

P1 & 3, going to have to go back and lead the second.
felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14

p1 only
chrisclimber - 2nd O/S - Jun/14

Abseiled from top of the second pitch rather than complete traverse due to failing light.
mossrug - Lead O/S - 30/May/14 with Ant

Ant Mace - 2nd dog - 30/May/14 with Neil S

Hidden - AltLd dog - 17/May/14

Lead pitch 2. Was very steep out the cave and took a while to work it out, but nice climbing after that. Book is disintegrating
catty_9 - AltLd - 17/May/14 with Katherine Ostrich

steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 07/May/14 with George Frisby

George Frisby - 2nd rpt - 07/May/14 with Steve Gibbs

led all pitches. Did P1 & P2 in one, much better than belaying in the smelly cave. First time I have led P2 - no push over!
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Jeff Mashburn

Jeff Mashburn - 2nd β - 04/May/14 with Dave Mahon

tskelhon - Lead - May/14 with Charlotte

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/14 with Neil Morbey

P1 for me.
riddle - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/14 with Adam Ryan

Via original start, which is hard!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd rpt - 12/Mar/14 with Peter

Started up the crack on the right and then continued up the excellent Original Start (as described in the guidebook) of Hell Gates to the right of the usual line. Wanted to continue on Clan Union, but since this first pitch seemed more like E1 5b I was quite slow leading, darkness was already coming close and we finished up Hell Gates.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/14 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Mar/14

Metal led first, me the second and rain stopped play on the third.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 06/Mar/14 with Metal

Went up the crack to the left by mistake on pitch 1, I think this is a direct start to how hard and felt 5b getting on to the dihederal. Traversed in to hell gates a bit below the cave. Rest of the climb went more smoothly once id worked out the sequence out of the cave....
CurlyStevo - Lead - 22/Feb/14 with Rob

Samuel Wainwright - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/13 with Steve Griggs

Lead the 1st and 3rd pitches, have now done all three
steve-grigg - AltLd rpt - 27/Nov/13 with Sam

P1+P2 as one long pitch, saves quite some faff. Excellent climbing throughout!
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/13 with Mike

Awesome route. P1 and P2 done together. exit from the cave was memorable, also the fine exposed traverse on P3
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 19/Nov/13 with Peter

Led the thuggy 5a P1.
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Simon Allcock, Wilki

led 3rd pitch
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Mary, Wilki

Led pitch 2.
Alex Winter - AltLd rpt - 07/Oct/13 with Alex

lead P1 and 3
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Alex Winter

tomosb - 03/Oct/13 with Darren Thompson

Hidden - AltLd RP - 22/Sep/13

P 1* and 3. *started up howhard by mistake, traversed across when level with the cave. Good pitch anyway. Contrasting pitches make this a varied climb. I don't climb places with pegs much but they all looked shaky to me!
alooker - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with David

led p2. Very good - interesting holds and climbing
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Dan Fairbank

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13

andy dunn - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/13 with J

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/13

Abbed off after the second pitch
jameslam - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Becky

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/13

Boogs - 2nd β - 17/Aug/13 with Pete Amy

halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13

mkonca - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/13 with steve gibbs

Great moves - good to finally get this route done! Committing crux, and awesome final pitch - went all the way to the arete belay. Lead p3.
stafford101 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Steve Gibbs, George Frisby

George Frisby - 2nd dog - 01/Aug/13

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13

Actually did the crux this time, found it very easy for a HVS.
zcsharp - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/13

Good moves up to the cave on the first pitch, second pitch less good, but the abseil 'garden' is lovely!
vertigo714 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with James Taylor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

felt harder than Baby Duck to me ! - Maybe i wasn't concentrating?
Billg - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Megan Beaumont

Second pitch out of the cave. Quite thrutchy. Didn't see the pen to sign my name until the ab back down.
squicky - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Richard Rogers

Led P1 a few years back P2 needed to be done! Easier on lead than I remember on second!
Slick - Lead - 26/Jun/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13

Top end HVS for me.....
alastairbegley - Lead dog - 31/May/13 with Julia Begley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13

rob.grafton - 04/May/13

Led 1,3 almost knocked off pitch 1 by a pigeon, quality.
papashango - AltLd - 03/May/13 with Major Tony

Anthony Dixon - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13 with Connor

Led 2nd and 3rd pitch amazing
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Dave King

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Joe Doherty

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Simon White

Beautiful sunny day! The move out of the cave wasn't as hard as I remember
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/13 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/13

Book is completely sodden. The moves out of the cave felt harder than 5a, must have arsed it up. Nearly got boshed in the face by a disgruntled pigeon.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Samwise

Luke Davies - AltLd - 10/Mar/13

Led 2nd pitch. Amazing climb.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/13 with Pete

Kevster - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Gavin Dee

Gavdee1 - 2nd - 02/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Feb/13

Night climb under head torches and the light from the bridge. Led P1 and P3. Nice varied climbing with cool belays throughout. Shame that it was a bit loose in places. So be careful!
Ragingpossum - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/13 with willbris3

therat - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/13

The log book was sodden, left a little close to the entrance I believe
steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/13

Marder20 - 2nd - 04/Jan/13

Sometime in the naughties.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2013

jcw - 2013

Richezzz - 2nd O/S - 2013

Lead all the pitches, got tried from the first pitch and then spent about an hour at the bottom of the second pitch trying to figure out how to do it. It was starting to get dark so i gave up and traversed left to easier climbing.
zcsharp - Lead - 18/Nov/12 with Will

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12

avictimoftheDrpsycho - 2nd O/S - Nov/12 with Jamie

In one pitch, pretty much a full rope length. Found a nicer sequence for the second pitch by taking a more left leaning line.
Kemics - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Roo led the 2 5a pitches & I found the climbing hard but I think that was fatigue from the working week. I made a bit of a meal on gear on the 4b.
irishguyinlondon - AltLd dog - 20/Oct/12 with RooFin

LJKing - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Bud Chawla

Clean O/S apart from a sneaky little rest outside the cave getting stuck into P2.
budchawla - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Laurence King

I took P1, P3
jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Geoff Pyatt

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Ed

P2&3
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with AlexD

Lead the first and third. Felt like steady HVS all the way and had plenty of gear (a nice change from rusty peg clipping on the Main Wall).
Alan100 - AltLd - 02/Sep/12

mattshort - AltLd - 02/Sep/12 with Alan Murray

First time I've ever used a pen on lead! Moving out of the cave felt harder than 5a - must have done it wrong. Cracking route.
s.c.white - 28/Aug/12

p1, signed the book glad to be part of the club! good route but earl of perth is better
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Jake Young

Cool book, shame its not in better condition.
Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Caroline

led pitch 2
James S - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with dan

Dan0Me - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with James S

Lead first two pitches in one; David lead traverse pitch at the top
jalien - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/12

Cracking route, I only led the traverse to the abseil point - didn't feel psyched for tough 5a climbing on the sharp end. Actually thought the move out of the cave was OK once you worked it out - unexpectedly found it more puzzling than strenuous.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Ivan Bicknell

I lead P1, Brian P2. The hardest move on the route was definitely getting out of the cave.
hms - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Brian

Led pitch two.
bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Helen S

mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12

simonf - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Simon

efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/12

Was so hard! really top end HVS for me. will have to do it clean when i got more juice. Onle 2 hard overhanging move on it tho...
Fred_Richard - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Kat

kat-lyle - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with fred

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/12

2nd the first and third pitches. 2nd on the second pitch, real hard getting out the cave.
hutchay - AltLd dog - 19/May/12 with Dave Clover

Led the first two pitches. I thought the first was harder. Took an age to get over the bulge, repeatedly 'resting' on a fist jam between attempts. My fingers are still aching typing this.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 18/May/12 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Apr/12

Davebryant - AltLd - 20/Mar/12 with Sam Hann

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Mar/12

HarryB - AltLd rpt - 10/Mar/12 with Luca

LJC - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Harry

Ciro - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Ramon

Lead 2nd pitch. Moves out of the cave and over the bulge were a bit saucy. Signed in the cave. Best pitch by far was the traverse to the lower off surprisingly. First time on the bridge, the wishlist fills once more.
Dave 88 - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Kemics

Pitches 1 & 3 lived up to the hype. On the luck of the draw absolutely mugged Dave for the best pitches. Was surprised at how loose p2 was. Maybe I missed some holds but felt like there's not much change left out of HVS 5a.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Dave 88

P1&2 then abseil off since we could no longer convince ourselves that the downpour was 'just drizzle' anymore ...! Harder than I remembered!
Lil_Pete - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/12 with Luke Hutchenson

Really nice route, solid at the grade.
Justin T - 2nd - 19/Feb/12 with Crispin

1st Climb of 'No Excuse Thursday' - by bridge light in drizzle.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/12 with P Dawg

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/12 with Edd

misterb - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/12 with tom

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with steve read

Led P2.
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/12 with Alex Pattison

CLimbed in the dark (by bridgelight). Led P1 & P3.
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/12 with George Evans

peterbeaumont - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/11 with pete lewis

I led 1 and 3, got my gear back from the cave but lost my phone somewhere, a head sized block fell off too just after the crux of 2nd pitch
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/11 with Al

Led P1 then it started raining so had to bail from cave! Awesome 1st pitch tho!
HarryB - Lead dnf - 25/Nov/11 with Al

petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with David Coley

Led 2nd pitch, bailed after pitch 2 when rain came in
wildrover220 - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Ali Dixon

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Oct/11

Clay C - AltLd rpt - 29/Oct/11 with Eleri

Led P1+2 with belay in cave. Move out of the cave was tricky, but it was next to good gear and quickly led to easier ground.
timstyles - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Mayur Patel

Amazing route. Lead pitch 1 and 3. Loved the cave belay and the exposure of the final traverse. Witnessed 3 people base jumping off the bridge as we abseiled down!
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Tom

Still a great route. Shame the old books gone but at least there's a new one, ta whoever!
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 01/Oct/11 with Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

Katherine Ross - 2nd dog - 17/Sep/11 with Charlie Beard

Great climb! It rained heavily after completing pitch 1 + 2 (linked) half ropes a great asset, particularly for the abseil. Accepts tricams well (didn't have any!)
cbeard - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Katherine Ross

adam 24 - 11/Sep/11

I lead pitch 2, Mat 1 & 3.
Monk - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/11 with hobbitmat

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

alex horribly bailed on to the thread on pitch one (l-a-d) and backed off after a few more small attempts, so I lead it all in the end. signed our names in the book and cracking moves out of the cave on P2. All felt kinda hard work in blindingly hot sun.. can't complain though, even if my head now disagrees.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Alex Randall

BD strung the first two pitches together. The climbing is excellent. The move over the cave is it crux.
Poco Loco - 2nd - 01/Sep/11 with Barry, SarahF

Tried to lead first pitch, fell at the over hang.
arandall - 2nd dog - Sep/11 with Ben Kelsey

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 29/Aug/11 with Pete

First pitch got rained off.
mary - 2nd dnf - 20/Aug/11 with Dale Gautrey

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Steve Winslow

great route. I led P1 & P3. The move out of the cave is stiff - well done Brian!
Dave Mahon - AltLd - Aug/11 with Brian Mead

had a quick rest before doing bulge completly knackered, great route though
riff156 - AltLd - 29/Jul/11 with Paul Williamson

Mackinclimb - AltLd - 28/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/11

Adam P1, Me P2, Naomi P3. Awesome route. Hard move out of cave and round bulge on first pitch.
gb05 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Adam Mackintosh, Naomi Havercroft

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with gary burgess

Excellent climb! Led P1 and P2. Even the traverse was fun. Hard moves out of the cave. Try to get the peg first!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Eric

ericinbristol - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Ben (CM)

kyle - 04/Jul/11

2nd pitch
bonelessivar - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Andy

Scary but brilliant traverse.
Kate Edhouse - AltLd - 30/Jun/11 with Kyle Worgan

mandy - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with rick

Slick - AltLd - 25/May/11 with Kevin Vans-Colina

P1 & 2 in one
Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with frank ramsay

Percy led first 2 pitches as a oner and I led the traverse - felt easy but very exposed. Great climb. First 1 in the gorge
gilbert - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Jonathan Percival

Ran first 2 pitches together, took a while to convince myself to leave the cave (first belay).
evilweed - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with dunc, Dan

Steady climbing with some exciting moves in places e.g. a fairly strenuous exit from the cave. JL Led up to bush/belay. DL Led to set up abseil an rock anchor. DJ Cleaned P1 and Seconded P2
fragglerock - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb

evilweed - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Dan

Great route, climbed while portway was closed so was unusually quiet. Led first two pitches as one, goes well but feels sustained, move out of the cave hard 5a.
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Dan Crick

Led P2. What a great climb, especially the first two pitches.
Dave Ing - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11 with Tom

P1, P3
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11 with Dave Ing

gripped01 - Lead - May/11 with Gilbert

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11

led P1. Fantastic climbing! Enormous snake in the cave!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Great route. The best of the HVS's on the buttress in my opinion. I led pitches 2 and 3. Rob did a great job on the first intimidating pitch.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Rob Stanfield

Forgot how good this climb was. A must do.
andy dunn - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/11 with Big Ben

Quality route, last pitch in darkness.
benjaminevans - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/11

clams - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with K

kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - Apr/11

Failed attempt at a repeat. Not climbed since last season and apparently that makes a difference! Fell off the bulge about 2/3 up the first pitch. Got back on for a few more goes but clearly not happening today. Abandoned a krab on some in situ tat.
mullermn - Lead dnf - 06/Mar/11 with Kylie Richards

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/11

this is no push over. there are easier HVS out there. led the 1st pitch
stvredmond - AltLd - 20/Feb/11 with Brian Mullan

Steve led p1
bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Steve Redmond

Clay C - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/11 with Louise

LouiseP - 2nd dog - Feb/11 with Clay

Clay C - AltLd rpt - 20/Jan/11 with Will A

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/11

Squeezed in before the light failed, so rushing it a bit. Abbed off the pegs at the top of pitch 2.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Jan/11 with Clare

31770 - 2011

alasdair19 - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

saintlade - 2011

jonbwoy - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Moving out of cave extra good value if you can't reach the good holds.
Dizz - AltLd - 06/Nov/10 with David B, jt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/10

Twigs did P1 and I did P2. Abbed down from stance at the top of P2 as it was getting dark and we had to find some nuts which I had dropped! Happy that we did the 2 crux pitches though
mikeyg - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/10 with Will Twigger

Very nice route, lots of gear. Enough tricky moves to maintain interest and even the 4b traverse is still interesting.
mullermn - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Monkey

Lovely route. All pitches are fantastic even the easier 3rd pitch.
Monk - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Mullermn

Rich P1, 3. Chris P2. Great route.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Richard Lade

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Oct/10

Done at night. Quite a bit of light from the bridge, but finding footholds was a bit trickier.
Clay C - AltLd rpt - 15/Oct/10 with Ross

A great route! Sophie ran pitch 1 and 2 together - still awkward moving away from the cave though. Some lovely moves, and the pitch 3 traverse is very enjoyable. And we have now replaced the book in the cave, so happy signing folks!
catemuir - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with Sophie Keltie

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with tom m

led last pitch
tommoulds - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Schramm

Seconded P1 and P3, leading P2. Took me far too long to locate the peg above the cave exit, combination of shortness and stupidity! Got there eventually and popped up to the belay and clipped in to the two dodgy brown pegs and an unknown piece of gear I didn't check out ... Great day out in the rain!
Lil_Pete - AltLd β - 08/Oct/10 with Matt Claydon

Lead P2
TDembrey - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Clay

I led P1 and P3, Todd led P2.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Todd

P1 me which was fantastic, probably the best of the three IMO. Mike M the second, Mike S the third. First time on the buttress and totally awesome route. Great way to finish the weekend!
mrtom - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Mike Stephenson, Mike Moss

Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Rich bennet

P1 me, P2 Ev. Fantastic position, fantastic climbing. Bold in places but always positive. Deserves everyone of its 3 stars.
explodingsprouts - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Ev

James did 1st pitch. I struggled on exit from cave - but got there in the end!
evhall - AltLd rpt - 07/Sep/10 with JamesG

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10

Climbed in the dark by the light of the suspension bridge. Led pitch 1. Lovely route!
joeurwin - AltLd - 02/Sep/10 with al franks

did pitch 2 and 3 in the dark. awesome night climb
Alasdair88 - AltLd rpt - 02/Sep/10 with Joe Urwin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/10

P1 + P3. Good variety of rock and moves, no diary in the cave, but there are still pens!
saz_b - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Dugald

Great climb. The log book is missing! nice moves out of the cave and tasty traverse, especially the beginning.
royal - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Misha

Very good P1, start of P2 and start of P3. A bit spoilt but the vegetation higher up on P2 and hte ledge shuffling further along P3. Led P2. The one person cave is pretty cool but we couldn't find the log book (although there were three pens neatly stashed and a very old cover from what must once have been the longbook), so I guess I'll have to sign in here - a sign of the digital edge?
Misha - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with royal

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/10

led first pitch
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Kafoozalem

again. great route.
ruaidh - Lead β - 03/Jun/10 with Zoe

lizannday - 2nd - 30/May/10 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/10

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 03/May/10 with David Coley

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

fishinwater - 2nd - 11/Apr/10 with Barry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10

R_W_M - 2nd - 10/Apr/10 with Eleri

Cornish_James - 2nd - 20/Mar/10 with Ross Davidson

Led P2
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Charles Moreton

Led p 1 & 3
cem - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Paul Bolton

Phil PBC - 2010

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2010

ruaidh - Lead β - 26/Sep/09 with Baz

lizannday - 2nd - 24/Sep/09 with Joe Dowsett

felt bloody solid.
cmsg - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Llewelyn Thomas

Its still hard. I think this is the finest climb of the grade in the gorge. Take a REALLY big sling for the thread. Also, you can chain P1 and P2 together - saves faffing at the cave. The crux I think is the exit from the cave. This is how I did it... WARNING: PLOT SPOILER! From the cave, clip the peg up and right above your head, and then #3 cam in the upper of the two slots to your left. Step right to a small ledge using a left underpull on the L edge of the cave. Then reach round right (with long arms) to get an opposing right pull, using L side of cave as bridge. Get left hand on a reasonable flattish hold above the head and step up with the left foot onto the break at cave height thats now hidden from view. Then (and this is the key move), go with the right hand for a good vertical edge six inches above and right of the left hand. Bring the right foot up to oppose this pull. Six inches above the edge is an even better hold for the left hand, reach up to this and heave the left foot onto a magic foot hold just below the #3 cam. Simples! Hope this isn't too much information.
ruaidh - Lead β - 20/Sep/09 with Baz

I led 1st, J led second - darkness set in so we didn't try the third. belaying in the cave - cool beans!!
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with J

rapidrich - AltLd β - 23/Aug/09 with Andy Stripp

Baz chained the first two pitches together, going straight through the cave to the top belay. Did th traverse across the top of the wall, to the abseil point above the Arete, in one pitch also.
ruaidh - 2nd - 23/Aug/09 with Baz

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/09

I led first pitch; Hol led second.
DavidR - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

Lead all pitches. Getting out of the cave was a bit spicy for hvs
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Gary Ryan

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Jun/09

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 23/May/09 with GF

There's now a decent 3 peg ab point at the top of the second pitch, with new looking tat/maillon.
cornishben - AltLd rpt - 05/May/09 with Gareth

I climbed the second pitch - a tough move out of the cave.
DorsetGareth - AltLd O/S - 05/May/09 with Ben Sutton

1st pitch
scorpia97 - 2nd rpt - 03/May/09 with Paul

1st and 3rd pitches
evhall - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Leandro

mark89 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09

London Luke - Lead O/S - Apr/09

led P1
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Graham Dolman

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Jim Jarvis

Led first pitch and fell off after bulge - fingers peeled because too pumped faffing about trying to thread a large tape. Biggest fall so far (20 feet). Seconded ok
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/09

Lead both pitches together - ran out of gear near top though
ian d f - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Lead both pitches in one long run.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Will Goldsmith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/08

led 1st pitch, some loose rock but nice
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/08 with Howard

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Nov/08

P2 and P3
Protheroe - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Douglas Hamilton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/08

lead 2nd pitch hard for 5a. Exposure on top pitch ace
Dale - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with johny

Pitch 1&3. Great route. Direct start.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Clive

Lead the 3rd pitch. Nice, tough parts in the 1st and 2nd pitch but good. End of 3rd is a bit bushy. 4th was really bushy and was getting real dark, had to use a head torch. Had to ab off with a head torch too!
dzlhodgson - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/08 with Alan Sage

nickdonohue - AltLd - Jul/08 with Andy Neath

maresia - AltLd dog - 31/May/08 with Iain Afshar

al99 - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 11/May/08 with Al Benson

Led pitch 3 (the 4b pitch.)
CarolineH - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/08

Lead 1st pitch this time, got drenched seconding the second pitch. Class climb though.
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 24/Mar/08 with Will

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Weilin Wang

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/08

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam

sea_lene - AltLd - 2008

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Francis

Francis Lister - 2nd - Dec/07 with george evans

Led 2nd pitch. Move up out of the cave took a while to figure out. A few metres of good severe climbing then led to easy jugs and a palatial belay station. First pitch felt harder. Final traverse v straightforward and wonderfully exposed, better than Gronk. Rock quality superb.
Humpty Dangler - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/07

Hidden - Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/07

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/07 with Pete

Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/07 with Sam Howell

Lead first pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/07 with Sam Howell

Led 1st pitch. Great route.
dycotiles - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Eric

2nd pitch
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Mario

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/07

A bit goy on the second pitch. Smiled for the american tourist.
Jack Symmons - AltLd - 30/Aug/07 with Chris T

Tim was sick. It rained a bit.
Circus - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/07 with Tim Wood

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/07

Led second pitch, thought the first pitch was harder.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Christian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07

Paz - 2nd rpt - 07/May/07 with AJM

Great route. Led it in one pitch up to the peg belay. Great climbing up to and past the cave.
AJM - Lead O/S - May/07 with Paz

Epic Ebdon - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Tim Ebdon

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/07 with Dave Gale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/07

I did the 2nd pitch,chris did the others
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/07 with Chris Davis

Did the 3rd (traverse) pitch - easy but fun - and abbed off the rock anchor.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/07 with Clare

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/07 with douglas

bullybones - Lead O/S - 2007

Stopped off on a cold dark night on the way back from doing some caving at Priddy. Climbed by the light of the bridge floodlights only - excellent adventure
KRB - Lead rpt - 28/Dec/06 with Chris & Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/06

The Mountain Goat - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/06 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/06 with Jon Miles

Fell pulling out of the roof. bah! Cool little cave though.
maresia - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/06 with Mike Kann

MikeC59 - Lead - 21/Aug/06

Bux - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06 with Rupert Bassadone

JasonG - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Barry Donovan

Hidden - AltLd RP - 16/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/06

The spotlights on the bridge worked a treat. Got down at 10:15
Paul Robertson - AltLd rpt - 11/May/06 with Ben Friedland

dan gibson - 2006

gimmer - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

mike kann - 2006 with maresia

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 2006 with llio elgar

IceMonkey1982 - 2006

Not sure about date
Richard Hall - AltLd - 2006 with James Barrow

MikeC59 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/05

Fat Tim - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/05 with Pete Sharpe

KRB - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/05 with Martin Bridges

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/05

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Apr/05

Lev - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/05 with James Byrne

joe_alexander - 2nd - 09/Feb/05

cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jan/05 with Chris Sims

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tim Rolfe

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with David Elder

furry - AltLd O/S - 02/May/04 with Neil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

Second attempt. Did both pitches in one and ran out of gear for the top 30ft.
tom.e - Lead rpt - 2004 with Charlie Everett

A nice, small hex helps.
RedFox - AltLd - 2004 with Tom K

philhilo - Lead O/S - 2004 with Ed Shaw

My first HVS.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/03 with Dave Peachey

Hidden - 2003

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2002 with Jemma Berry

Strang 1st two pitches of the direct together.
Paz - AltLd O/S - Jul/01 with CC

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/01 with Jemma Wadham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/May/01

Stone Muppet - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/00

Boxy - 14/May/00 with Chris

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 2000 with Dick Hanson

Hidden - Lead - 1999

danp - Lead O/S - 1999

kevp - Lead O/S - Mar/98 with Gareth Arnold

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/97

Will Homoky - 2nd O/S - May/97 with Jason Brooks

Jim Brooke - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/97 with James Latham

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 31/May/96 with John Marston

Led p1. Marcus p2, p3.
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/95 with Marcus

colin milton - AltLd - 23/Apr/95 with eric milton

Hidden - 05/Feb/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/94

jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/94 with FW

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/94

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 08/May/94 with Francis Taylor

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Alternate leads. I did the odds.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/93 with Mark

mikej - AltLd - 24/Mar/93 with Nick Salmon

markpollak - Lead O/S - 1993 with neil dennison, suzanne mcfadzean

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/92

Budge - Lead O/S - Jun/92 with Brian Ottewell

ChrisJD - 2nd - 22/Sep/91

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/90

strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju

AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 1988 with Andy E

mark-abz - AltLd - 14/Nov/87 with Andy W

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily

sadams - AltLd - 05/May/86 with Mark Bonham

belayed in the cave after following the direct start. Used the peg to get out of cave and into groove
JamieAyres - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/85 with Gareth Williams

Hidden - AltLd dog - 1985

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 06/Oct/84 with Tim Dunsby

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/82

led p1&3
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 26/Sep/82 with Simon Harry

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - 1980

beaumap - Lead - 01/Sep/77 with Pete Coghill

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/77

Andy Chubb - Lead - 15/Aug/76 with Pete Coghill

alpboy57 - 02/May/76 with Stuart Hermalin

Andy Chubb - Lead - 23/Apr/76 with Andrew Collins, Pete Coghill

Marcus - 30/Nov/75 with Roger Stokes

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

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Voting
Total votes cast 282
hard E10 of 94
E10 of 94
easy E11 of 94
hard HVS37 of 94
HVS50 of 94
easy HVS6 of 94
hard VS0 of 94
VS0 of 94
easy VS0 of 94
hard 5b0 of 94
5b3 of 94
easy 5b2 of 94
hard 5a40 of 94
5a47 of 94
easy 5a2 of 94
hard 4c0 of 94
4c0 of 94
easy 4c0 of 94
3 Stars79 of 94
2 Stars12 of 94
1 Star3 of 94
0 Stars0 of 94
Bag of .....0 of 94
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Style of ascent

Lead125 of 428 (29.2%)
Followed63 of 428 (14.7%)
Alt Leads211 of 428 (49.3%)
Unknown29 of 428 (6.8%)

'Climbed'113 of 428 (26.4%)
clean O/S241 of 428 (56.3%)
clean β9 of 428 (2.1%)
clean rpt44 of 428 (10.3%)
clean RP2 of 428 (0.5%)
dogged14 of 428 (3.3%)
dnf5 of 428 (1.2%)