10m. A microroute with one 5b move, often soloed, although the landing isn't ideal as the sapling is in the way. There is a cam placement if desired. The route lies on the short grey wall which forms the right-hand side of the Alpine Ridge. Start just right of a sapling, and climb the wall direct to an overlap at 5m. Pull over; then scramble easily to the crest of the ridge.

M Raine (solo) 29/Jun/2002

JamesRich 17/Apr Solo O/S
with BUMC
Laurence20 22/Jan Lead O/S

Didn't bother placing a runner.. Only dry route in Fairy Cave.

Hidden 03/Oct/15 Solo rpt
Larey 23/Sep/15 Solo rpt
with Max Ayrton
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hooo 20/Sep/15 Solo O/S

Boulder problem. By the time any gear appears, the route is over.

just one more 23/Jul/15 Solo O/S

Not worth roping up for!

bpmclimb 04/Jun/15 TR rpt
with Shunt
Mayaculpa 23/May/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Mayaculpa 11/May/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Sent
Felix Ottey 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
degibbs 30/Jan/15 Solo
petegunn 31/Dec/14 TR
with Davina
Hidden 31/Dec/14 TR O/S
Larey 01/Oct/14 2nd β
with Max Ayrton
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Solo rpt
Echna 27/Sep/14 Solo rpt
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Echna 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S
with Rich
katiep 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
felixizzy 07/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 TR O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Solo O/S
pymn nice but dim 13/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Solo'ed with Angus

BallsOfSteel 03/May/14 Solo RP

Pulled a ?crucial? hold off and bounced down the route on first attempt...ouch! Reckon I was perhaps marginally right of the route, as second attempt went a bit left and was ok at the grade IMO.

gjh 30/Mar/14 Lead RP
madguernseyboy 19/Mar/14 Solo O/S
shim ?/Mar/14 2nd
BenRyle 16/Feb/14 Solo O/S
with Tom Coombe, Beckett
Chazwoz 16/Feb/14 Solo O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Solo
Ian JL 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Easty14 24/Aug/13 Solo
Stuart William 28/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Neil Gay 22/Jul/13 Solo β
BenBird 22/Jul/13 2nd
Neil Gay 14/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Stew nutter 14/Jul/13 Lead RP

First few moves are hard with a big move to get over the crux. Nice short bouldering style route with a very welcome cam placement!

with Neil gay
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Neil Gay 06/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Al Gay
cbonner 21/Apr/13 TR rpt
Warner ??/2013 Lead
riff156 11/Nov/12 Solo O/S
with Hannahc, Jo Smith
arandall 26/Aug/12 Solo O/S

needs a bouldering grade not a trad grade :)

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Solo O/S
J.Atkins 03/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/12 2nd
Pete Rigby 25/Feb/12 Solo O/S
kelliroberts3 25/Feb/12 Solo β
cbonner 19/Feb/12 Solo RP
Mikey1988 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

First climb of the day, brilliant route, bit short but plent of gear after the crux,

with Gareth Berwick
bpmclimb 06/Jan/12 Solo rpt
j miller ??/2012 Lead O/S
riddle 12/Nov/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/11 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/11 TR O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 Solo O/S
bullybones 15/Aug/11 Solo
Pete Scott 13/Aug/11 Solo O/S
with Jimbo
stuntsbyjon 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 TR
Hidden 25/May/11 TR
nick hawkins 22/May/11 Lead
with steve
Steve27 22/May/11 Lead
hutchay 16/May/11 Solo O/S
Uberpussy 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Not E1 & Waste of time

cas smerdon 06/Apr/11 TR
with mark joyce
Neil Tucker ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Richard Reynolds
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
bpmclimb 13/Mar/11 Solo rpt

HVS, but 5a or 5b?

Hidden 19/Jan/11 TR O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with jimbo
bpmclimb 22/Oct/10 Solo rpt

Did this again as unsure of the grade. Still unsure! It's probably E0 5a/b.

tobydunford 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S

Felt very easy for the grade.thought i was in the wrong place but there were no other 'good' grey bits of rock around!

tebs 04/May/09 Lead O/S

Felt more like highball bouldering to me, a few bold moves up to a good cam, reach for the jug and it's all over. Soft.

with Mike
AJM 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S

First evening session of the year. Pleasant move low down getting lots easier higher up.

Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead dnf
alexisg 08/Nov/08 Solo
lemon 13/Jul/08 Lead RP
with James Chidgey
RANGITOTO 11/Jun/08 Solo
Hidden 15/May/08 Lead O/S
RANGITOTO 02/Apr/08 Solo
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
igneouscarl 20/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Urgles 18/Sep/07 Solo

this is not a route - it is a boulder problem - V1 5b

dcomeau 08/Sep/07 Solo rpt
dcomeau 30/Aug/07 Solo O/S

The crux is low and very poorly protectable.

guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
John_Hat ?/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with Kevin
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Mike Alderton
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead
RANGITOTO 23/Apr/07 Solo rpt
freelancer_85 18/Apr/07 TR rpt
with Megan
freelancer_85 21/Mar/07 TR rpt

Both of us got it on the second attempt. Solo next time? Maybe.

with Megan
jimjimmyjimjim 18/Feb/07 Solo O/S
ebunick 18/Feb/07 Solo β

surprisingly easy

Oddjob 18/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Tom87 17/Feb/07 Solo RP
bpmclimb 17/Dec/06 Lead rpt
with Clare
RANGITOTO 16/Aug/06 Solo
bpmclimb 22/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Paul Robertson 14/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/06 Solo O/S
JamieAyres 19/Mar/06 2nd O/S
BruceW 25/Feb/06 Solo O/S
KRB 21/Jan/06 Solo O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
chris sm ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
James Moyle 10/Sep/04 Lead β
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hubert, Ollie Wickham
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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