35m. The obvious rising crack which crosses the left-hand slab of the Glacis from left to right. Once a few metres past the buddlia, go more directly up to a lower-off (extended down from the large tree at the quarry rim).

J Stanbury, R A Broomhead 01/Jun/2002

Ticklists: South West Climbs for a Northerner, Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
Mayaculpa 23/Apr 2nd
with Richard T
Mayaculpa 17/Apr Lead
with Kate
mattx1123 17/Apr Lead O/S

nice traverse, fun slabby crack. got it in early so didn't cut others up.

with mike fairy, dave clare
Mayaculpa 08/Apr 2nd
with Michael H
Hidden 08/Apr Lead O/S
Julian Prieto 03/Apr 2nd O/S
Norman_P_W 03/Apr Lead
sadlerbrett 02/Apr 2nd
with Richard Taylor, Mike Unwin
Tom courtiour 02/Apr Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 02/Apr TR
with Brett, Mike Rotraxion, Richard T
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
hairy51 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
10029759 25/Oct/15 2nd
pimpy 25/Oct/15 Lead
LovelyMrTom 25/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Neil Rigiani 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with James Hill-Reid, Dave Coley
phil456 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Marktrin 18/Oct/15 2nd dog
with phil456
Robin Woodward 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Seems like HS, one move wonder if you can't find the low foot mid way. Did some cleaning of most of the horizontal cracks, but had to leave the last grassed up vertical section as there was a guy leading up behind.

Jenny Dart 18/Oct/15 2nd
with Robin
miriamclaire 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Tom Downes 12/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Matt Smith 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S

How is this a VS? unless I was off-route (pretty sure I wasn't) you can pretty much walk up this!

Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
lakeyross 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

i think we set a new route! there is a smaller crack line above this line which we climbed. probably still a VS but maybe 4C. i'm naming this route, "Ross's mistake"!

Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 02/Jul/15 2nd
with Rob
lukerathmell 30/Jun/15 2nd
with George
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun/15 2nd
Trace 14/Jun/15 Lead β
sasheep 25/May/15 Lead

Finally did it. Cams were so useful. The middle was still scary

with Sam Daly
Steve Woollard 17/May/15 Lead
with Donald
crater 17/May/15 2nd O/S
with steve
maresia 13/May/15 Lead rpt
cdpuk 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead
Fatclimber 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Deako 04/May/15 Lead
Ollie Wickham 30/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Richard Mackie
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
davidclare 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Tris Vye
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead
markfromstoke 04/Apr/15 Lead
with Duncan
Gaz of Bath 05/Feb/15 Lead
davidclare ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Tom Downes 12/Oct/14 Lead dog
with callans
callans 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Thin crux not made easier by muddy shoes. Needs a gardener! Lovely route otherwise.

Rob Morgan 05/Oct/14 2nd
Steve Bartle 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Echna 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Dalinda, Rich
Zack 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah B
Ian JL 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
swhite 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David Chadwick
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 2nd
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
catty_9 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
Steve Woollard 14/Aug/14 Lead
with Bob Dawson
ian d f 07/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Steve Needs
georgeevans88 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Caitlin
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
spenser 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Abs 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Bit thin in the middle! Nice VS but we wished it had gone on longer

Samuel Cox 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Abi
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Nice climb but starting to get polished

Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tim Culwick
Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Craig
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S

First VS. Challenging and fun.

with Ian
MontyH 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
brian watson 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 Lead
mutly 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paul G
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
Bob Peters ?/Jun/14 -
Tom F Harding 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/May/14 2nd rpt
kiwi boy 04/May/14 2nd O/S

Great climb along crack line. Good gear. Excellent ab points

with David Smith
davenev 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with David
drgrange 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Nick
stoneback 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
gjh 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 Lead
with Kevin Van Colina
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
shim ?/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 19/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 01/Oct/13 2nd
with Helen Eden
riddle 15/Sep/13 2nd O/S
zadurrani 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Mark Lee
Swsloper ?/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Deary65 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Covers most of The Glacis wall. Great to keep it for yourself.

matthewpwilson 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Ed W, Laura
laura wilson 26/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Gave up halfway across having lead the first bit

Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 2nd
with John Parrott
petegunn 07/Aug/13 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Echna 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 24/Jul/13 -
with Cormac
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Marvellous with entertaining move in Middle...

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
chrisallan 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Swsloper 30/Jun/13 Lead
mikeydee135 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Swsloper 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
norris.dan 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
Jcomber 12/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 05/Jun/13 Lead
with James Pomeroy
Poco Loco 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S

An obvious line trending up the slab. Steady going apart from one move which would be more difficult for the short of reach.

toriwest ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

Start was nice but got to the middle and struggled

wurzelinzummerset 01/May/13 Lead rpt
with Carl
carl_123 01/May/13 2nd rpt
Brian Moseley 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 2nd
Nix33 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
kirsten 15/Sep/12 Lead

Very enjoyable, one tricky move. Think I finished up Caveman rather than through the jungle.

with Mick
Steve27 09/Sep/12 Lead
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Steve27
lazzaw 06/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Gareth Chalker
riddle 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tara
stingray_tara 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd β
J.Atkins 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
upontop 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Beth
Marti999 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/12 Lead
with Brian
bpmclimb 23/May/12 2nd rpt
with Alan
LJC 12/May/12 2nd
with Tom, ben.richards
ben.richards 12/May/12 Lead dog

Foot popped of the thin moves a third into the route which was bloody frustrating! I blame my worn out shoes! Took a nice swing onto a bomber tri-cam in a little pocket, pulled back up to the gear and with a little extra care finished the route.

with Tom Foote, Luca Celano
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With gear in situ.

with Mick
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 07/Apr/12 -
Steve27 07/Apr/12 Lead
lazzaw 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Jason Wilber
wurzelinzummerset 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Andy
onlyfoddington 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with James H
Kayan 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
luke13 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul
Tom F Harding 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
McKEuan 06/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Tadms
Didymus 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
jamespilgrim 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Last section was a bit overgrown, finished up caveman

with Mark
BenRyle 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great route, a bit of foliage towards the end though.

CharlotteMilner 29/Jul/11 2nd O/S
sofe13 21/Jul/11 2nd

Lovely climb, tricky middle section, especially with a stuck chock!

with Lisa
Warner 04/Jul/11 Lead
carl_123 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ruth ND 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Clay
Clay C 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd
mikeydee135 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mai Wong, David Fisher
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Bobling 21/May/11 Lead

Very good fun, mostly straight forward with one testing move. HS?

with Rob H, Dave L
BALD EAGLE 21/May/11 2nd
with Rob Duerr, R.Horler
timstyles 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mayur Patel
Bob M 26/Apr/11 Lead
darren hudson 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

bit dirty

with David Ford
joeurwin 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 20/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
nick hawkins 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jez
jezb1 11/Mar/11 2nd

Good middle section

gilbert 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

the odd tricky spot but a nice traverse line across the slab

with Gary Hayes RAFMA
Matt Smyth 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

VS- 4b 35m LP Not too taxing, slopey, traverse. Avon and Cheddar

Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
davenev 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
The Ivanator 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead
Steve Woollard 16/Sep/10 Lead
cas smerdon 01/Sep/10 2nd
with mark joyce
bpmclimb 09/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden ??/2010 -
Tom F Harding ??/2010 Lead O/S
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Would be a realy good with a good clean.

with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
deklan 10/May/09 2nd
with dad
colin milton 13/Apr/09 Lead
with chris dew
gringoloco 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with colin milton
vertigo 19/Oct/08 2nd β
MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
upontop 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
trevor macalonan 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Sebo
bazzag 28/Jun/08 Lead
with reece, sam and ryan
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Clare
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead β
chockstone ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Foster
upontop ??/2008 -
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
kristofferalpsjo ?/Oct/07 2nd
with Toby Kluth
maresia 27/Sep/07 Lead O/S

One thin move that seems a lot tougher than 4b

Hidden 16/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 17/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Steve
cas smerdon 09/Jul/07 2nd

and Dave Brewer

RANGITOTO 09/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Carol Standing, Dave Brewer
RANGITOTO 25/Jun/07 Lead rpt

half way then rain!!!!!!!!!

with Dave Brewer
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
freelancer_85 29/May/07 2nd O/S
with Toby and Megan
bpmclimb 18/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Clare
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
just one more 09/Jun/06 Lead
with rich h, Max B
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
RANGITOTO 16/May/06 Lead rpt
with Jacqui Shea, Phil Shea
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Paddy Wilson
Hidden 04/Jan/06 2nd O/S
petegunn 04/Jan/06 Lead
with Davina
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Philippe Azzi
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Jen79 ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Matt Litchfield
JamieAyres 29/May/05 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd
RANGITOTO 26/Feb/05 2nd
with John Rees, Steve Thompson
Hidden ??/2005 -
RANGITOTO 08/Sep/04 Lead
with Malcolm Jeffrey
spence 25/Aug/04 Lead

good balancey route for feet

with Tim Hudson
RANGITOTO 29/Jul/04 2nd
with Malcolm Jeffrey
RANGITOTO 15/Jun/04 2nd
with Andy Hunt
greedo 07/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Juliet.
Hidden ??/2004 Lead RP
timstyles ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Bob M 16/Apr/03 Lead
with Richard Mott
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Jimkato, petecallaghan, Hidden, jhobbs, George Frisby, Louvet, Hidden, Steve nevers, Kate Edhouse, fleapitfan
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 41
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set