25m. This route takes the obvious system of cracks and runnels which rise for 10m before trending right and merging into a darker flowstone formation near the top of the slab (providing the crux). Exit the slab slightly left; then trend right up grass slopes to a good tree (just left of a rock outcrop). The gear is a little spaced, but not unreasonably so, and part of the flowstone flake near the top is flexing and requires care.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 30/Mar/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Hidden 06/Sep 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep Lead
wilsers 06/Sep Lead O/S

Very nice start to the day! A good route.

mjcostain 06/Sep Lead O/S
mjcostain 06/Sep 2nd β
leland stamper 04/Sep Lead O/S
thomasmerry 04/Sep 2nd O/S
AshBarnes 21/Jul Lead O/S
with Squires
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
51fizzycheeky 11/Jul -
johnl 04/Jul Lead O/S
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Trippinjester 04/Jul Lead O/S
Adam Perrett 04/Jul Lead O/S

(Sarah led it clean onsight as well)

with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
Mayaculpa 21/Jun 2nd
with Meline, Kate
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd
catty_9 17/Jun 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Cat
MoWalker3 07/Jun Solo

a bit of cleaning done

Hidden 06/Jun 2nd O/S
mutly 06/Jun Lead O/S
with Emily
onlyfoddington 05/Jun Solo O/S
BALD EAGLE 16/May 2nd
with Pete Shone
Hidden 09/May Lead
sofe13 10/Apr Lead
with Gof
Neil Gay 09/Apr 2nd rpt
Rob Morgan 22/Mar 2nd
with Louis
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Ian JL 12/Oct/14 Solo
Felix Ottey 21/Sep/14 2nd rpt
anthonylewis 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with pete ross
callans 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
katiep 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Callan
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead
Stuart William 27/Jul/14 2nd β
Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Solo
MoWalker3 23/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
marsden.d.paul 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Solo
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 Lead
Tom F Harding 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Steve Bartle 31/May/14 Lead O/S
mutly 26/May/14 Solo β
alexwolf47 26/May/14 Lead O/S
karlanjana 26/May/14 2nd O/S
nicknicely 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with brian
felixizzy 14/May/14 2nd O/S
with Craig
sarahrowlands 13/May/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Tarrant
Poco Loco 09/May/14 2nd O/S

Lucy lead this well. Some of the gear is a bit fiddly, and the grass top is a bit sketchy in the wet. Otherwise straightforward climbing.

with Lucy
lucyh 09/May/14 Lead

Didn't like the slippery grass at the top.

Hidden 03/May/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
MartinN 03/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Nick
stoneback 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Alan
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 Lead

was having a "can't climb" day so went for the easy lead,. good gear but not much of it.

with Brian
Hidden 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/14 2nd
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Rob Horler
miriamclaire ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
the ant hill mob 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Neil Watson 29/Mar/14 Lead

Second time. Dave's first time at the quarry

Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Tristypants 24/Mar/14 Solo O/S
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt

To rig top rope for Strictly Ballroom.

with Toby, Rich
kenneM 24/Oct/13 2nd
with Pete
tolly_60 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S


Matt Amos 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
matthewpwilson 26/Aug/13 Lead
with Ed W, Laura
laura wilson 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 2nd
with John Parrott
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
lazzaw 02/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Setting up a top rope for the kids to climb yet again, but still a nice climb.

with Jonathan Cook
seanprendiville 01/Aug/13 2nd
with Tessa
MartinN 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
timstyles 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Robert, Mayur Patel
Jen Mason 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Julia
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd
just one more 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with katie b
beth_may 04/Jul/13 2nd
with William Brown
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Up and down.

will_benfold 30/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
alikirk 26/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Started route ok,just past where the route vears to the right hand crack, struggled to find suitable areas for protection so backed off and down climbed. Mike hen led route from my in situ protection past the point where I backed off.

alikirk 26/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
lazzaw 22/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Seconded by Jude. Took the right hand runnel rather than following the main crack to the right. More satisfying climbing and also better protected. Might be a good place for novice learners.

with Jason Wilber, Jude
Hidden 17/Jun/13 Lead rpt
alikirk 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Seconded this climb with Richard Goodbody leading. Used it to practie my foot work and balance, found i got on a lot better than first climb. Base of crag was again geasy and muddy.

Neil Gay 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt
BenBird 10/Jun/13 2nd
lazzaw 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Good solid rock and good protection - quite spaced, especially to the first piece I put in, but safe moves throughout.

with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook
mikedevcole 01/Jun/13 2nd β
mikedevcole 01/Jun/13 Lead β
mutly 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Mike DC

Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gaz of Bath 26/May/13 Lead RP
Easty14 18/May/13 Lead
paul1234 08/Apr/13 2nd
with Sarah
Nix33 ??/2013 -
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
Felix Ottey 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mattc 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 03/Sep/12 Lead rpt
arandall 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mum
pffft 26/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
klo1981 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Matt Schwarz 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
paulerussell 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Poad
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Solo
stuntsbyjon 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jobbo 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
shaws 28/Jul/12 2nd
with Jobbo
Leon. D 28/Jul/12 Lead
upontop 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Mikey1988 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Richard cox, gareth beswick
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd rpt
wurzelinzummerset 12/May/12 Lead
with Mike
Mayaculpa 12/May/12 2nd
Alex Parker 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

easy climb, good protection early on but not so much after half way. I was not happy with the wet grass at the top, so traversed a little to the right to gain ascent to the tree. Not a pleasant finish.

Laura Parker 14/Apr/12 2nd

Slabs - urgh!

Samuel P 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Bath Dave
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Steve27 24/Mar/12 Lead
tommyt82uk 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

I stayed below the grassy overhang and traversed accross and up to the tree.

with Ian Head
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
robbie Warke 18/Mar/12 2nd

Great little climb worth a star

with Paula Warke
Mikey1988 ??/2012 -

Very sunny day on a very pleasant route, bit of veg all the way along but solid gear and easy moves, beware loose boulder at the top, won't take much pulling to send a nice presant down to your belayer! Recommend climbing past grass and up next slab then walking down, tree belay is just underneath the aforementioned loose boulder!

with Richard cox, gareth beswick
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 Lead O/S


with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/11 Lead
robertcunningham86 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Neil Watson 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Craig's first Trad lead, executed smoothly!

with Craig
DreadyCraig 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan B
Chrissie Baylis 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Cerberus1956
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead
BenRyle 29/Jul/11 Lead rpt
CharlotteMilner 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
BenRyle 24/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Didymus 30/Jun/11 Solo O/S
carl_123 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
bradholmes 11/Jun/11 2nd
chrislamming 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Stoddart
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 29/May/11 2nd O/S
with Phil RAF
MajorRS 21/May/11 2nd O/S
TomBaker 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jessica Jackson, Dan Warren
Hidden 16/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead
Will Gordon ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Jonathan Storey 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice easy climb with good protection lower down but runs out near the top. Nice easy climb.

with Roger
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
joeurwin 28/Mar/11 2nd rpt

Neil's first trad lead.

with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 20/Mar/11 2nd rpt

The flexing flakes haven't been pulled off yet, but it's only a matter of time.

with Andy S
fletch73 ??/2011 -
davenev 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S

Wet and chossy

with mick
Matt Smyth 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S

VDiff- 20m LP Warm-up Avon and Cheddar

Hidden 15/Oct/10 2nd O/S
cas smerdon 01/Sep/10 Lead
with mark joyce
karenhh 30/Aug/10 Lead
jezb1 23/Aug/10 Lead

Damp with lots of wild life. Set up for Michelle.

jenniferanncleaver 22/Aug/10 2nd
stpauliblade 22/Aug/10 Lead
bpmclimb 09/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Clare
kiwi boy 08/Aug/10 2nd

Quick warm up after lunch. Soft at VD. Bundles of gear if you want. Good for a beginners first lead

with Greg K
SharonC1604 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Easy climbing, difficult gear

wilf 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S

used top rope to climb strictly ballroom next door

with nick f
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Solo O/S

got to be the best low grade route in the quarry

cas smerdon 24/Jul/10 2nd
with Mark S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead
James Moyle 21/Jul/10 2nd
Richard Fox ?/Jul/10 Lead
JJSegarty ?/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Sue Taylor, Alan Taylor
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
sofe13 17/Aug/09 -

For the 3rd time!

with Lisa
WoD 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sophie
sofe13 30/Jul/09 2nd

Ben's gear was loose, would have given way

with Ben
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead β
sofe13 20/Jul/09 Lead

Gear placement was hard, climb was ok

with Juls
olliegray96 20/Jul/09 2nd
with dad,reece & ryan
Outdoorfun37 08/Jul/09 Lead
with Chris Wright, Vicky Barker
cas smerdon 24/Jun/09 TR
with bob & chris
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
petegunn 28/May/09 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
bazzag 15/Mar/09 Lead
with alison,reece,ollie and ryan
MarkRyder 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 15/Mar/09 Lead
with Mark
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/09 -
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
KarlH 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Gemma
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
misplaced ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S

not very good pro, felt harder in the wet than a vdiff, more like a severe.

Ollie Wickham 19/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Moran
Hidden 27/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Matt Schwarz 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dylan
dylan2025 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Matt S
Hidden 27/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
richardadventurecafe 24/Mar/08 Lead
with Richard Maxwell
srees2108 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Compfy COLD climb with interesting slipery accent over frozen grass to top tree. Tried to kill lee with large rock on decent. oops.

with Maya
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/07 Lead
John_Hat 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Stevieblue
Hidden 02/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead
cas smerdon 01/Sep/07 2nd
with Andy Waugh
nikinko 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S

fist climb for Laura. Shoulder pulling.

with Laura J
Paul Robertson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Finished at tree belay on the left.

with Hannah Redmond
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
AlexD 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
joeurwin 05/Aug/07 2nd β
with alex
cas smerdon 09/Jul/07 Lead

Nowhere to place gear in middle!

Hidden 09/Jul/07 2nd rpt
Dan B 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Solo O/S

Got bored while Megan and Cas went off to get food and water. Might have gone a bit off route at the top, but it felt vdiff all the way.

freelancer_85 02/May/07 Solo rpt

Definatly went the right way this time!! Megan dropped a screwgate at the top of Real Men Do Eat Quiche, so I nipped up to get it before we went home. Forgot to take a rope up with me, so had to downclimb back to the abb rope that I'd luckly left at the top of Jive Talkin'

Ybot Htulk ?/May/07 Solo
Hidden 03/Oct/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead RP
django ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Steve Corner
Hidden 18/Jun/06 Lead
bpmclimb 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare, Michael L & Michael M
Sarah Bough 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with James Wasiak
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/06 Lead rpt
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/05 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
Hidden 29/Aug/05 Lead O/S
just one more 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with katie b
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
sam coward ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Helen and Tom (my brother)
Hidden 08/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Tom Harper, Hidden, J.Atkins
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Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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