Rockfax Description
This good line up the centre of the wall is spoilt by some sharp rock and lichen. Start at the 3m flake-crack as for Kraken.
Start up the stiff layback and climb direct on increasingly sharp edges to a step left at the fifth bolt. © Rockfax

F Haden, I Parnell, J Hunt 07/Nov/1993

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Edward Kwong 26/Nov Lead O/S

Thin, balancy, delicate crux at halfway.

AlexRenshaw 13/Nov Lead
with Jon Bentley, Mike Dawes
Nathan Chrismas 30/Oct Lead RP

Took a few goes to get this, felt fairly easy once I'd worked out how to get my feet sorted.

with Jones
quiffhanger 30/Oct Lead rpt
with Rachel
Bates 08/Oct Lead rpt
with Pete swaine
DredStripe 02/Oct Lead O/S
with Claire Falck
drewish 04/Sep Lead O/S
with Tom, Pym, Chris
Emily 10/Aug Lead RP

Pleased to get this but not entirely sure that it was worth the abuse to my right middle finger! Very sore from the sharp pocket and little crimp.

with Nick
Nick Russell 10/Aug Lead rpt

warm up

with Emily
Ana_B 07/Aug Lead RP
with Dean
Dean177 07/Aug Lead O/S
with Ana_B
Nick Russell 04/Aug Lead rpt

Pretty fiddly, but I found it possible to stop just about anywhere with the right feet/body position.

with Emily
Emily 04/Aug Lead dog

Did quite well on this for 3 attempts. More or less sorted the moves out (and the clips, which was the hard bit), fell off on the last go mostly out of surprise at getting past the hard part I think. Also didn't want to get it that time anyway because I had started up Kraken instead: the bottom of this one was underwater by that point!

with Nick
chris85 ?/Aug Lead RP
nickmoulden ?/Aug Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
Hidden 31/Jul Lead O/S
wilchivs 31/Jul Lead O/S

Wasn't quite sure when to move left but found the crimps after some searching.

Hidden 03/Jul Lead β
Hidden 19/Jun Lead O/S
Dean177 29/May Lead rpt
with Ana_B
aiyer 28/May Lead RP

Basically onsighted it out couldnt get the crossover the first time. Got it on third attempt!

nickyprice77 26/May Lead
Dean177 14/May Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May Lead dog
richiebongo 05/May Lead rpt
with Nick Smith
NickNixon 04/May Lead
Tom courtiour 02/May Lead dog
AlexRenshaw 30/Apr Lead
SaraAlassam 30/Apr TR dog
Davebryant 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Joe Day
Ian Bell 17/Apr Lead dog

1 fall, snapped off a foothold

with Daniel
Livia 17/Apr Lead dog

1 attempt so far, rested once, next time will fall

anthony henry 16/Apr Lead rpt
with Ali
Hidden 10/Apr Lead β
Hidden 10/Apr Lead O/S
rurp 05/Apr Lead O/S
Rosea Day 02/Apr Lead
Laurine 31/Mar Lead dog
with Ed
Rosea Day 25/Mar Lead
Benjaminblanc 19/Mar Lead dog
with James Norris
Carl Watkins 17/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar Lead rpt
Pippa 06/Mar Lead rpt
with Jacob, Martin Grenfell, Jamie Thornley
Jacobclare ?/Mar Lead O/S
Ian Bell 28/Feb Lead rpt
fraserbarrett 28/Feb TR
with Ian
climbEdclimb 24/Feb Lead O/S
with Larey
joshdownham23 11/Feb Lead O/S
Jackislav 25/Jan Lead O/S
sideshow84 23/Jan Lead RP

3rd go

Hidden 23/Jan Lead dog
Josh Lewis 17/Jan Lead RP
tommccluskey 17/Jan Lead O/S
Tomas P 17/Jan Lead O/S
samparsons 16/Jan Lead O/S
just one more 05/Jan Lead rpt
with Joe ukc
Wise ??/2016 Lead RP
London Luke ?/Dec/15 Lead RP

clean on second assent

with David R
Rory Bascombe 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Jacob
Charlie Low 08/Sep/15 Lead RP

Worked this last time but didn't manage to lead, managed it 1st RP today after putting the clips in. Actually thought I was on Kraken so bit of a surprise when I realised it was this. Not really 6c+, felt more like 6c.

Jack93 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead β
elliptic 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Albachoss 21/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Matt
climbomaniac 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Dan Jenkin 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Donna Kwok, Emma, Rich Jenkin, Frances Haden
RichyBOYY 07/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ben M
gavin.edwards 08/Apr/15 TR RP
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
AlexD 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Billg 07/Mar/15 Lead rpt

direct to the belay (no step left to ledge) (7a)

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 06/Mar/15 Lead RP
jacobjohncharles 04/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Trisha Murphy 27/Feb/15 Lead rpt
maybe_si 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
josh baldwin 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S
jacobjohncharles 04/Feb/15 Lead rpt
jacobjohncharles 02/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Ben Russell 02/Feb/15 Lead rpt
JackMac 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/15 TR β
just one more 19/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Nice climbing,not sharp as described. 6bą

with vertigo
NancyJones 18/Jan/15 Lead rpt
Allan Watson 18/Jan/15 Lead
with Luke_G
ericinbristol 11/Jan/15 Lead O/S
adlamixion 11/Jan/15 2nd
Nick Russell 02/Jan/15 Lead rpt

Stayed further to the right this time to avoid impinging on holds from Kraken. No real change in difficulty, possibly easier.

Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead β
Trisha Murphy 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
s0458892 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S

6C. Fiddly crux. Packs alot in such a short route.

Hidden 05/Dec/14 Lead β
Nick Russell 05/Dec/14 Lead rpt

Hmm, hms went more direct than me. Maybe worth trying that next time.

with Helen
artmal ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Radek
Murilo Lessa 30/Nov/14 TR O/S

This is definitely a 6b+ max. Done initially in top rope as a warm up.

with Cristiano Costa
Murilo Lessa 30/Nov/14 Lead RP

This is definitely a 6b+ max. Done initially in top rope as a warm up and then read leading.

with Cristiano Costa
Hidden 15/Nov/14 Lead RP
Felix Ottey 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 Lead RP
Montse Shelbourne 15/Nov/14 Lead
with Nathan
nath_casper 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
duncan 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
jacobjohncharles 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S
lewiz 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Radek
RadekNowak 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S

felt softer then Kraken

Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Oct/14 -
GrantB 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
BicycleBradley 30/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Trisha
BicycleBradley 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hannah Brading 19/Jun/14 Lead RP

1st Redpoint!! Happy that I didn't get scared!!

with claudia
Misha 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Helped watching Ian do it first as knew where to move left. Quite hard for a few moves but not too desperate.

with Ian W
alek 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson
Alex Whitmore ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
Dizz 31/May/14 Lead
with Ali
Nick Sherring 25/May/14 Lead RP

2nd go. good varied climb with some technical moves. correct hand sequence through the crux helps!

psborland 25/May/14 Lead dog
with Nick
najki_2000 17/May/14 TR RP

Holds seem fine and not too sharp. Climbed in a direct line following the bottom bolts. Didn't quite step right at the top and passed the bolt on the left. Felt 6c that way. Hard to read but would be ok on rp. Opted to try chepito instead and save skin.

with Chris Rose
J1_TOV 13/May/14 Lead rpt
Nathan Chrismas 26/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Timms
NancyJones 26/Apr/14 Lead dog
vickydavies 12/Apr/14 TR O/S
with Jim Tovey
Nick Russell 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

I enjoyed this. Not as sharp as the guidebook description makes out, though I did find it hard to work out the line.

Alex Winter 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nick
Jonathan Emett 29/Mar/14 Lead β
with Tim ell
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead RP
Giles Davis 15/Mar/14 Lead dog

Messed up the crux on the on-sight attempt.

with Nick Matthews, Dean Jones
Giles Davis 15/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go Red Point

with Nick Matthews, Dean Jones
gingernick 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Very good but a bit thin

with Giles Davies, Dean Jones
afrosam 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
TomJ 15/Mar/14 Lead
with afrosam
chakrit 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
NancyJones 01/Mar/14 Lead RP

Got it 2nd time - helps when you know where the big holds are!

Hidden 16/Feb/14 TR dog
jonleighton 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Tommyads ??/2014 -
emdawes ??/2014 Lead RP
imvarma 14/Dec/13 2nd
Dale Turrell 11/Nov/13 Lead RP

2nd go, route was wet.

with Dave
Hidden 27/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
remus 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Pretty thin. Got a belay of an old chap called Malcom while Tom and becca where on Great Corner. Really nice guy, a Bristol local of 40 years.

Albachoss ?/Sep/13 Lead dog
goddamm7 13/Jul/13 Lead RP

My 1st 6c+ outdoor which has a couple of good moves on small holds and the step across is worth full attention!

Ian Bell 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice and sustained. Felt 6c ish.

with Tania T
wi11 18/Jun/13 Lead β
with Nat
Laurence Everitt 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
lukehodson 07/Apr/13 Lead rpt
drysori 19/Mar/13 TR
Hidden 19/Mar/13 TR
Jay81 10/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Tomar
Ellis Butler-Barker 06/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with JackMac
Tom Brierley Gore 02/Mar/13 Lead RP

Fingers ... so cold, I'm sure this climb is fine, but i couldn't feel anything, needed visual confirmation for every hold.

with Nick Eaton, Shijing Hu
tom169 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Darren
Hidden 30/Jan/13 Lead rpt
Didymus 05/Jan/13 Lead RP

Had a lot of trouble with this one

with Nick
Ed Booth 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Edwin Mitchell, Adam Booth
Adam Booth 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/13 TR
ollie_e 01/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 01/Jan/13 TR
saraguti 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

my first 6c+ on sight! quite good route

with ania
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead β
brices 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Tomar
BeccaSnowden 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Couldn't manage to stay on line near the top - really eliminate 6c+ or nice 6c?

Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
tedj234 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 14/Aug/12 Lead rpt

2nd rp

Hidden 27/Jul/12 TR dnf
dan gibson 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Jon_Warner 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt

6c

with Jenni
will909 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 TR dog
Samuel P 20/May/12 TR
adam cooper*super* 13/May/12 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Be
Be Fuller 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

epic day with Nat, Dan and Dan.G...first successful day of leading ever!

jiggerypokery 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
iforwms 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Glyn
James Marshall 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Ray
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
lottiec 25/Mar/12 TR dnf
with Mikey P
J1_TOV 21/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Phil Murray 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Long draw pre-placed in the crux (the reachy bit) made *all* the difference... got the flash! 6c?

with Fenella
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead β
Jon_Warner 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Fun.

with Ivor
el_monty 13/Feb/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Oddjob 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
lukehodson 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Little Tom
Ed Babs 16/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Chubbard 08/Jan/12 Lead dog
with Ray
tommytuffa 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead RP
patrickc 19/Nov/11 Lead RP
jgustafsson 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

warmup, felt steady. Probably 6c.

with Ian
Ramon Marin 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with adam brown
bluesharper 05/Nov/11 Lead β

started and finished like for Kraken, which makes it similar grade to Kraken

with Tomar
BeccaSnowden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 17/Jul/11 Lead rpt
dmaldonado 08/Jun/11 2nd dog
nblackbeard 08/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Greg Pittam 22/May/11 Lead rpt
with Clare Richardson
derico 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Cal
Martin Cleaver 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

I'm short and the climb was really straight forward, do not pay any attention to the user saying it's all there if you're tall, it's just all there....

Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead RP
Tomar 05/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 27/Feb/11 Lead
with Sophie Keltie
Kevster 12/Feb/11 Lead
Spacetourist ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Graham Westbrook ?/Feb/11 Lead β
quiffhanger ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
peaches69 ?/Feb/11 Lead β
gb05 02/Jan/11 Lead dog
with Fuzzy
Steve Winslow ?/Jan/11 -
Justin T ??/2011 Lead
Rosea Day ??/2011 -
richiebongo ??/2011 Lead O/S

repeated clean 4/1/13

with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
PaulTclimbing ??/2011 Lead
with Pete
Tim M 13/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Emma
climbergg 13/Nov/10 2nd
Gingerdarren 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Barbara Ercolano
Phil Murray 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Liz
Phil Murray 08/Aug/10 Lead RP

Felt quite soft, more like 6b+ for someone of my height. Got it 1st redpoint; two decidedly thin sections with very small intermediate holds; good footwork required. If you're tall it's all there!

with Liz
thrutch 11/Jul/10 Lead
with helen
Kevster 13/Jun/10 -
Hidden ?/Jun/10 TR O/S
Wendy 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Bungle
catt 09/May/10 Lead β

Quite a dinky climb. Pleased to flash this. Pretty thin, then a little eliminate near the top but worthwhile.

with Hardin
Luke Dawson 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead rpt
bbrowne 03/May/10 Lead RP
with Kelly Atkin
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 01/May/10 Lead β
with douglas
Tomar 24/Apr/10 Lead dog
brices 12/Apr/10 Lead RP

tried last year first go this year

Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Feb/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Feb/10 Lead dog
JimR 27/Feb/10 -
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
bensendz 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S

great technical climb...very different than the other climbs at brean.

Richard Hall 18/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Howard
Peterjuliandawson 17/Jan/10 Lead RP

a cool tecy climb

Hidden 17/Jan/10 Lead RP
Luke d 01/Jan/10 TR O/S

could be very sketchey on lead

Hidden ??/2010 -
Bates ??/2010 Lead RP
PaulTclimbing ??/2010 Lead
with Richard t
PaulTclimbing ??/2010 Lead
with Richard t
mikeshewring 10/Dec/09 Lead dog

1 rest

mikeshewring 10/Dec/09 TR RP
Cowflinger 08/Nov/09 Lead rpt
with Pete Lewis
Hidden 01/Sep/09 Lead β
nblackbeard 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Darren Russell
Gingerdarren 30/Jul/09 TR O/S

Rope was already in place. Felt quite relaxed and found small holds but a great varity of things you could do with them. ie gaston ect. appears to exit on the left a little ealier than expected. ?Nice climb though, quite technical.

with Wendy Coles
Dan Jenkin ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Glyn 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Hard for the warm up

with Jonny
shyster boulder 22/Mar/09 Lead RP

nice route

with giles cranstone
tombeasley 02/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Dean Howard
Paul Bowen 14/Sep/08 Lead β
with John James
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 03/Jul/08 Lead RP

Finally, definately deserves 6c+, hard clip.

with Alex Malins
Hidden 03/Jul/08 Lead dnf
tskelhon ?/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Bez
Jon_Warner 26/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Desperate for grade of 6b+. Will try again when fresh.

with Tom
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead O/S
Paz 12/Jan/08 Lead rpt

Tried to finish it a bit more direct the second time, but just went L to LO a bit higher than normal (direct all way was wet). Will go back and do it and claim it then. Lamborghini Atoll. Anyone know if this's been done?

with TS2
Hidden 21/Jun/07 Lead dog
Billg ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
Greg Pittam 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Howel
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead RP
LC 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Apr/06 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival ?/Mar/06 Lead RP
with paul
Paul Robertson 25/Feb/06 Lead rpt
with Paz
phsharpy ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Nick Ingram
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Jake Shaw ??/2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Dec/05 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Dec/05 2nd dog
Jo McCready ?/May/05 Lead RP
with Steve Yeoman
Rob Kennard ??/2005 -
with Dan Kennard
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Mark Kemball 14/Nov/04 Lead RP
with Nic Dill
Paz ?/May/04 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
eddieclimb ??/2004 Lead RP
with Jason Parker
Hidden 17/Mar/03 Lead RP
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
shoulders 18/Feb/01 Lead
with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis, dai
crimpaway 01/Feb/00 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
4 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set