Rockfax Description
Brean Down's best sport route is well worth tracking down. Start on the large block as the ledge levels out.
Step off the block into a steep corner and follow it strenuously to a semi-rest at the mid-height break. Step left and crank up the fingery wall before moving left to join Brean Topping at its last bolt. © Rockfax

M J Crocker 10/Feb/1990

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Hidden 26/Nov Lead RP
Hidden 22/Nov Lead rpt
Caspian Johnson 22/Nov Lead RP

Had to work harder than I thought for this. Well worth it though, amazing route.

brices 22/Nov Lead β

retro flash to put draws in Brean topping

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Nov Lead dog
piken 30/Oct Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden 23/Oct Lead RP
Rory Bascombe 22/Oct Lead RP
Kevster 11/Oct Lead
tommccluskey 04/Oct Lead RP
Beefy Bert 04/Oct Lead RP
rachelvlc 04/Oct Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Sep Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner 21/Aug Lead β
richiebongo 16/Aug Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Nick Smith
climbomaniac 16/Aug Lead dog

hard going left to last bolt

DrGav 17/Jun TR dnf

Played on the first half. No giveaway.

with Luke
Laurence Everitt 06/Jun Lead dog
with Sarah Burkett, Ross Cooper
highrepute 10/May Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 09/May Lead RP
Hidden 04/May Lead rpt
brices 26/Apr Lead RP
with Llinos
Misha 19/Apr Lead dog

Still hard! Got spent figuring out the moves and putting the draws in. Second go dogged it again and couldn't clip the last bolt (easier to do from the next hold rather than pumpy swapping on the jug below the bolt?). Third go on TR, still dogged it but was tired and fingers were hurting from the sharp holds and pockets. Need another day on it! Mark got it on his first proper redpoint, good effort!

with Mark S
Hidden 19/Apr Lead RP
peaches69 12/Apr Lead rpt
with luke
Hidden 22/Mar Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar TR dog
Hidden 14/Mar TR dog
ericinbristol 05/Mar Lead RP

Felt easy on the send, as these things often do. Superb route.

Hidden 05/Mar Lead dog
Ben Russell 18/Feb Lead dnf

So tried this route having already been 3 days on. Felt good going bolt to bolt, especially on the top section near pockets. What a route! Definitely keen to come back and redpoint.

Hidden 18/Feb Lead dog
Hidden 15/Feb Lead β
JM 08/Feb Lead β
with Stevo
shark 06/Feb Lead dnf

The living end. Unpleasant desperate polished moves and a personal bÍte noire - pockets

with Eric
TomJ 10/Jan Lead dog
with derico
Andy Smallwood 05/Jan Lead dnf
EmilyElouise 01/Jan 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden 01/Jan TR rpt
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead RP
Alex Winter 19/Dec/14 Lead RP

Third tie-in today, by the skin of my teeth. I was all over the place after clipping the final bolt.

with Nick
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead dog
holister 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

really nice climbing on the top section

with tomar, lee
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/14 Lead dog
Nick Russell 05/Dec/14 Lead RP

Great conditions, everything just fell into place this time.

with Helen
hankyc 04/Dec/14 Lead RP

Great route, well chuffed to get this second redpoint, will be back for more!

Nick Russell 30/Nov/14 Lead dog

Pulled a flapper off on the second attempt.

Alex Winter 30/Nov/14 Lead dog

Got all the moves fairly quickly on top-rope. Skin was really sore though, and I sacked it in after one pathetic redpoint.

with Nick
yan hawkins 30/Nov/14 Lead RP
with _m.cox_
Nick Russell 20/Nov/14 Lead dog

3 times up, one on TR. Definitely doable but need to nail the footwork at the top of the crux.

with Helen
Hidden 20/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Nov/14 Lead dog
Marti999 05/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Nov/14 Lead dog
Justin T 01/Nov/14 Lead RP

Nearly a coveted retro-flash but not quite, 1st RP

with Nancy
Kevster 31/Oct/14 Lead dog

Seem criminal to put it as dogged when it was just one little mistake. Again!

WB 29/Oct/14 Lead RP

2nd go

with Andy M
Hidden 11/Oct/14 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 23/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead dog
afrosam 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/14 Lead dog
Carl Watkins 08/Jun/14 TR dog
with Bill G
Billg 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Carl Watkins
Misha 08/Jun/14 Lead dog

After watching Ian on the bottom crux, got to the resting ledge in one go. Got beta on the crux from a guy at the crag - very useful as the pockets weren't immediately obvious. Two very hard moves, first getting the pocket next to the triangular incut and then getting the crimp above with a high right foot (crux for me). The rest of the moves are just hard as opposed to very hard! Apart from the awkward rest (not too bad in a semi sitting down position on one leg), there is little respite until the last few moves. Got to the top first go with lots of attempts on the two hard moves. By the second go I was a bit spent so couldn't do the hard move to the rest ledge clean despite trying from the ground several times. In the end could only do it after a rest on the bolt. Getting the left foot high seems to do the trick but it's still a hard pull when tired. Dogged the rest but improved the foot positioning for the crux - getting the left foot up slightly helped to get the right foot in position. Took a couple of falls trying to clip the last bolt as was getting pretty pumped but managed it in the end just as Ian was suggesting grabbing the draw! One to come back to - should go with more work and being fresh for the redpoint.

with Ian W
alek 01/Jun/14 Lead RP


Hidden 31/May/14 Lead dog
Kevster 17/May/14 Lead dog
DJ Nelson 04/May/14 Lead RP
with Michael Porter
Sarah Black 23/Mar/14 Lead RP

Got second attempt. First British 7b+. A lovely little route

with Dave Ripley
Hidden 23/Mar/14 TR dnf
Ellis Butler-Barker 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
jonleighton 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
jonleighton 09/Mar/14 Lead dog
chakrit 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
adam 24 01/Dec/13 Lead RP

4th go, first 7b+!

Pippa 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 16/Nov/13 Lead RP

Second session - wet first half.

Hidden ?/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Oct/13 Lead β
DorsetGareth 26/Oct/13 Lead dog

Defo need to return to try to get it clean.

anthony henry 20/Oct/13 Lead RP

Took a big fall yesterday at the top trying to make the penultimate clip. Came back today and finally got it. Felt pretty hard still

with Ro
rhoslynfrugtniet 09/Oct/13 Lead RP

Second go, such cool moves!

anguskille 21/Sep/13 Lead RP

greasy! 2nd go

with David
anthony henry 30/Aug/13 Lead dog
Ed Booth 16/Aug/13 Lead β
Adam Booth 16/Aug/13 Lead RP

2nd RP

ollie_e 16/Aug/13 Lead RP

At last! So good.

Adam Booth 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
chrisscutt 14/Jun/13 Lead RP
with andy, lee
Ellis Butler-Barker 31/May/13 Lead β
with Jim Pope, Gavin Symonds, Buster Martin
ollie_e 31/May/13 Lead dog

Did not expect to be anywhere near this, great climbing, will go after some rest.

Be Fuller 18/May/13 Lead dog

dogged at the end of the day...lovely moves to be completed next time :)

tobydunford 11/May/13 Lead RP
with Harry Martin
Luuuuuke 06/May/13 Lead RP
with conner, Si
natalietanzer 23/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead RP
davidliu 20/Apr/13 Lead RP

RP1, excellent climbing, flows well, good moves

Joe Innes 01/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Drew
drysori 19/Mar/13 Lead dog

Nice climb. Hit the good hold at the end of the crux on second attempt, think I would have ticked this if I'd been a bit more patient and spent a bit of energy working the moves first.

Jay81 03/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Tomar
quiffhanger 24/Feb/13 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 19/Feb/13 Lead dog
with Marc Weisner
henry peter jenkins ??/2013 Lead dog

great climb but unfortunately did not do it clean. next time!

Tomar 08/Dec/12 Lead rpt
with Kelly
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead dog
natalietanzer 03/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Adam
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead RP
BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

Did the 7b variation mentioned in South West Climbs. 2 rests/falls I think (on the top section)

thomasadixon 22/Jul/12 Lead RP

Softer than most...good though, glad to get it clean - Just missed the RP 2nd attempt in Aug/11, messed up footwork at the top (the crux?).

with Mike
Cassidy 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Rich Emerson
Kevster 26/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/12 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 29/May/12 Lead dnf

Pocket move tweaked my finger, so i came down. Good route, but not worth injuring myself for.

with Nicola
peaches69 22/May/12 Lead RP

Had a quick top rope other day, 1st go 2day

with connor
con321 20/May/12 Lead RP

Wicked climb love the start section!

Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
Martin Cleaver 19/Apr/12 Lead β

flashed, after doing storm warning so I knew the finishing moves

with Dan Gibson
derico 14/Apr/12 Lead RP

Felt really hard a month ago, but went down pretty easily this time.. so psyched when setting off to lead it, I forgot to hang 3rd draw as did it.. oops!

with Jenny
Garrouli 11/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Jak, Matt
Jon_Warner 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

Done! And not without a previous attempt falling off the last move. (Yes the easy bit).

with Jenni
Jon_Warner 27/Mar/12 Lead dog

3 great days on it this week. Next week.

with Jenni
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Jenni
danh86 25/Mar/12 TR dnf

Jon and Jenny were working this route, was interested in trying the start - couldn't get past the 3rd move!

Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
iforwms 17/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Warner
Jon_Warner 17/Mar/12 Lead dog

Pulled an important hold off the start. Doesn't change anything but adds to the already punchy first half!

with Ivor
Glyn 11/Mar/12 Lead β

Finally! Had been on the route briefly before over the past few years. Never really worked it or did the correct finish. Felt like a flash hanging the draws. Great climbing, powerful, sequency and a little polished.

Hidden 04/Mar/12 Lead dog
quiffhanger 03/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Slipped of the beginning first attempt but felt easy otherwise. Think I did from block previously time, so better style this time round.

with Jenni
brices 19/Feb/12 Lead dog

tried to OS

Toby Dunn 16/Feb/12 Lead RP
with Alexis Perry
pezzerrr 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Feb/12 Lead dnf

An ultra moist pocked prevented success

Ciro 11/Feb/12 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Feb/12 Lead RP
Chubbard 21/Jan/12 Lead dnf

could do some of the hard bi, very good climbing

with AJM
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead dog
Tris.w 03/Dec/11 Lead RP

put draws in and first redpoint. Great moves!!

with will boxen
Mike Goldthorp ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Woo, awesome, so pumped but just kept on cranking! Great route of two halves, although the rest is still a bit awkward. Psyched for brean!

with Cailean Harker, Alex Harper
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/11 -
Kevster 27/Nov/11 Lead dog
Tomar 17/Nov/11 Lead RP
with Rafael
jgustafsson 13/Nov/11 Lead RP

Should have done sooner. Used sequence with left side-pull. I don't think this is an easy one for the grade.

with Ian
Ramon Marin 13/Nov/11 Lead RP
with adam brown
Ian Ash 11/Nov/11 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 16/Oct/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
dan gibson 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
with michael porter
Bristoldave 17/Jul/11 Lead RP
with JonW
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
quiffhanger ?/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Jon_Warner 12/Feb/11 2nd dog


with Duncan
Spacetourist ?/Jan/11 Lead RP

Hands frozen, fingers numb but second go.

with Rosea
Steve Winslow ?/Jan/11 -
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP


Hidden ??/2011 Lead dog
Wendy 12/Dec/10 Lead RP

Yeah!! The lieing down rest worked a treat! A lovely sunny, winters day - perfect!

with Dean Russell
colesy 12/Dec/10 -
Luke Dawson 28/Oct/10 Lead rpt

easy 7b+

Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
tskelhon 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt

1st RP

with chris davis, skeen
grey wolf 01/May/10 Sent x

second go

Hidden 04/Apr/10 TR dnf
BenNorman 13/Mar/10 Lead dog

Done in two halves, no move is too hard but is steep and unrelenting. Next time it will go with fresh arms!

with Alex harper
Hidden 27/Feb/10 TR dog
bensendz 20/Feb/10 Lead RP

Sent first go today after working on it for 2 days...a really quality route the whole way, had to try hard and dig deep...psyched.

archiecb 12/Feb/10 Lead RP

Big thanks to Ben who stood for a long time belaying me on it.

archiecb 10/Feb/10 Lead dog

Feels good.

Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead RP
Luke d 01/Jan/10 Lead rpt

was my first 7b+ on the 9 nov 09

Luke Dawson 01/Jan/10 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 -
tom harrison ??/2010 -
gazhbo ??/2010 Lead RP
Richard Hall 09/Nov/09 Lead RP

Though it was going to go yesterday, but had to come back. Very cool route, felt easy when it went. 7b+

with Howard
Hidden 08/Nov/09 Lead RP
Chubbard 31/Aug/09 Lead dog

The top bit felt nails.

with AJM
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead RP
rubben ?/May/09 Lead dog
Glyn 19/Apr/09 Lead dog

Painful and surprisingly difficult bottom section to a poor rest at the break. Then an awesome ('ard) sequence between two-finger pockets on the upper wall.

with Jonny
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead RP
Billg 14/Sep/08 Lead RP
with James Kauntze
bigie bob 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 08/Jul/08 Lead dnf

This polished piece of crap feels harder every time I get on it.

with Peter Shepherd
Hidden 16/Jul/07 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 11/Jul/07 Lead dog
LC ?/Jun/07 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
Kev Little ??/2007 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 01/Dec/06 Lead dog

Damp day, not ideal.

lx 16/Sep/06 Lead

1st redpoint. Really cool. Climbed again 10th may 2009. Think this is quite hard, top end 7b+, but it was the end of the day...

with fat boy
eddieclimb 23/May/06 Lead RP
Dan Savory ?/May/06 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 31/Mar/06 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Jake Shaw ??/2006 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
Paz 26/Jun/05 Lead RP

I had a go on this on more occasions than I can remember (starting in 2003 when I thought I could never touch it) before I finally did it. Frankly I'm as surprised as anyone that I managed it. I only meant to get the clips back.

with JH
Rob Kennard ??/2005 -
with Dan Kennard
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Adam Mulholland
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead RP
with Hammy
John Southworth ?/Jul/02 Lead RP
with Jason Parker
guy xavier percival 28/Jul/98 Lead RP
with woody
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Votes cast 57
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set