Luuuuuke - Lead RP - 29/Jun/15 with Si
Amazing what difference a few beta tweaks can make! Didn't get everything right until the successful (fourth?) attempt, then it felt steady. Hard to grade in light of this. The lower wall is easy and there's a full rest (I really could get everything back at that kneebar) just before the crux. When unlocked the crux felt fine, and it's only 3 hand movements anyway.
Nick Russell - Lead RP - 04/Jun/15
Four times up today. Took me ages to remember how to do it. Pretty convinced it will go now.
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 31/May/15
Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Apr/15
I think I can do the crux with the gaston beta (or my version of it, not sure what the standard method is). I think I did all but about half a move today. Also found the kneebar at the break :)
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 07/Apr/15
Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Mar/15
Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Feb/15
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15
PeterDawson - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15
Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Feb/15
Just feeling the holds. Seems the hard section is very short-lived.
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 01/Feb/15
yan hawkins - Lead RP - 18/Jan/15 with cailean
I did it first try but only onsighted the beginning and the end ; )
JM - Lead RP - 13/Dec/14 with Anna Reiners
Gibbo - TR dnf - 27/Nov/14 with Lee Bateman
sacked in the gaston way as it was way too painful. did it the bullworker way and went pretty easily.
anthony henry - Lead RP - 16/Nov/14 with Andy, Chris, Ali
i_a_coops - Lead RP - 09/Nov/14 with remus, Michelle
Used the gaston method through the crux and skipped the big pinch. A good route.
Jack_F - Lead RP - 26/Oct/14 with Remus
Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Oct/14
JPGR - Lead - 19/Oct/14
brices - Lead RP - 18/Oct/14 with Llinos
new beta using gaston. hopefully should go next time
anthony henry - Lead dog - 12/Oct/14 with Chris
chrisscutt - Lead RP - 12/Oct/14 with ant
Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Oct/14
Bouldering on a rope describes it best
jackgriffiths - Lead RP - 23/Aug/14
the middle crux feels desperately hard. Can only just make span
anthony henry - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/14
Amazing route, Next stop milky bar kid!!
holister - Lead RP - 12/Mar/14 with andy, lee
Wicked route. Loving Brean !
Bates - Lead RP - 12/Mar/14 with Chris holister, Andy Brice
Bouldering on a rope innit! Wild dynamic moves, superb!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 06/Mar/14 with Paul S, Giles, Hannah B
DorsetGareth - Lead dog - 24/Nov/13 with Pip
Surprised to get this first go; couldn't remember the sequence.
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/13 with Charlotte Warner
Should have flashed. 2nd go.
El3ctroFuzz - 11/Oct/13 with Elaine Budden
Just one hard move. But the move felt too hard for me...
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 21/Sep/13 with Jenni
Mostly flash except the crux which I had done before so 1st redpoint attempt. Nice route
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead RP - 31/May/13 with Jim Pope, Gavin Symonds, Buster Martin
Gavinsymonds - 05/May/13
3 Names - Lead dog - 23/Apr/13 with Ed Bulman
2nd redpoint after a play on the dog
peaches69 - Lead RP - 21/Apr/13 with connor
Few dabbles on a top rope and went 1st redpoint
con321 - Lead RP - 21/Apr/13
Quality route, good banter working it.
derico - Lead RP - 21/Apr/13 with Jonny
brices - Lead dog - 13/Mar/13 with Ross Atkinson, Tomar
Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Mar/13
Hidden - Mar/13
Glad to have finally climbed this. It was a funny route for me as I find the crux on this as hard as the crux on brean topping, although the hard section is a lot more short lived!
Cailean Harker - Lead RP - 09/Jan/13
Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Oct/12
Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/12
Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Aug/12
iforwms - 2nd dnf - 14/Jul/12 with Patty
brices - Lead dog - 05/Jun/12 with james marshal, rupert
Justin T - Lead RP - 28/Apr/12
dan gibson - Lead RP - 18/Apr/12 with martin cleaver, julie carroll
valecoastclimber - Lead RP - 15/Apr/12
Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Apr/12
I think I flashed this after Adam showed me the beta, but I'm not entirely sure as Brean is a bit of a climbing gym for me and don't really pay attention to the sends. Anyways, I logged it as RP just in case my memory is failing me ;)
Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/12 with adam brown
3rd go. Only 2 hard moves really - now solved so I can get on the Milky Bar Kid :)
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 03/Mar/12 with Jenni
pezzerrr - Lead RP - 16/Feb/12
gazhbo - Lead RP - 13/Nov/11
Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Nov/11
tough gaston move
James Marshall - Lead RP - 23/Jul/11 with rich hard rock
Hidden - Lead β - 27/Mar/11
The left hand side pull setting up for the crux has come off recently making this a lot harder. Now definitely solid 7c.
Ged Desforges - 2011
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 24/Oct/10 with Rick Sewards
westyb3 - Lead RP - Sep/10 with Heather Ogston
Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Apr/10
F6c to a stopper move, then F7a to the top.
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 08/Apr/10 with John Warner
Compared to other routes here there is no way this is 7c. Soft 7b/7b+. One fairly hard move thats a bit on off. The rest is a path. Nice enough but not 2 stars. Big loose jug at the top which is best too avoid, and only one bolt to lower off on, (and a hole where presumably the other on used to be).
lx - Lead - 10/May/09 with Neil Edmunds
Ricky Rocks - Lead RP - 11/Jan/09
_m.cox_ - Lead RP - Jan/09 with Robyn Nelson
The good left hand side pull that you use to set up for the move to the next left hand side pull has broken off. This is now a pretty hard move. The route is probably now very bouldery 7c+
Ged Desforges - 2009
Paul Robertson - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/08 with Paz
Thankfully I wasn't too tired from Bourton the previous night and it just needed finishing off. I'd say it's 7b+ but I want the tick and tell myself it's unusual for 7b+s to take me longer than 2 days.
Paz - Lead RP - 18/Jun/06 with PS
Started off the day not being able to dog the crux (aided it to put clips in) then with a bit of thought (and chalk) was falling off easy ground (again) above the crux -reach-(!), going for the redpoint. I pulled the top jug off, but I think it's actually easier without it.
Paz - Lead dog - 16/Jun/06 with AB
Was very annoyed after falling off trying to jump/swap my feet, immediately after the crux slap.
Paz - Lead dog - 30/May/06 with AB
guy xavier percival - Lead RP - 31/Mar/06 with paul
Hidden - 2006
Hidden - Lead RP - 2006