Rockfax Description
An entertaining and spectacular pitch. Start 6m right of the large block, as for El Chocco.
The right-hand line of bolts above the difficult start of El Chocco points the way up steep ground on good holds to a powerful finish rightwards, through the capping roof. © Rockfax

M J Crocker, M Ward 03/Jan/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Didymus 15/Nov TR dog
with Paul, Nick
Ollie B 25/Oct Lead β

Tried before but no recollection. Bill filled me in with what to do. 1st go.

with B.Gregory
Rory Bascombe 22/Oct Lead RP
Hidden 22/Oct Lead rpt
AshBarnes 17/Oct TR dnf

One rest up to the overhanging crux then lack of strength for the rest

with Ric
RichyBOYY 17/Oct Lead RP

put draws in and sent it - thuggy through the roof

with Callum H, Ash Barnes
Kevster 11/Oct Lead
Hidden 03/Oct Lead RP
Cassidy 12/Sep Lead β
Hidden 22/Aug Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner 21/Aug Lead O/S
Albachoss 21/Aug Lead RP
with Matt
JackMac 15/Aug Lead RP

Crossed over my right hand with the left at the crux. Glad it finally went so I never have to get back on this route!

shoulders 16/May Lead dnf
with richard bennett, Pippa
Trisha Murphy 11/May Lead dog
with Vikkie
GrantB 18/Apr Lead RP
with Mike, Alpha Red
JackMac 23/Mar Lead dog
JackMac 15/Mar Lead dnf

Cruised up to the roof, then struggled with 'the move'. Hoping it will go when fresh...

Hidden 07/Mar TR dog
Billg 07/Mar Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 01/Mar Lead O/S
emilyrobyn ?/Mar Lead

fell of crux

Trisha Murphy 27/Feb Lead dnf

Big move. Will get it eventually :)

PeterDawson 21/Feb Lead O/S
Kemics 08/Feb Lead dnf

Made the pocket and the cross through move but couldn't work out what to do with my feet after. Not enough beans to finish with power

with Corin
Ben Russell 04/Feb Lead RP


Billg 01/Feb Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
tedj234 11/Jan Lead RP
with Kate
Andy Smallwood 06/Jan Lead dog
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead β
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Michelle W 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Ben Russell 03/Nov/14 Lead dog

Should have committed, to much time spent reading the rock holding the undercling and pocket pinch hold. Opted for the boulder start.

lewiz 01/Nov/14 Lead β

This must be easier for lankers like me.

with Radek
RadekNowak 01/Nov/14 Lead RP

2 RP, should have been 1st..!

Hidden 14/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead dog
LucasHarazin 23/Aug/14 Lead RP
TomJ 08/Jul/14 Lead RP

Just as the sun was setting - perfect evening!

with derico
derico 01/Jul/14 Lead β

Had done first boulder problem before when doing the 7c. Cool route

with Tom
TomJ 01/Jul/14 Lead dog
with derico
Mowglee 09/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Ali
Mowglee 09/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Ali
Mowglee 09/Jun/14 TR dog
with Ali
just one more 25/May/14 Lead dog
with steve f
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
with tim croudace
jonleighton 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 15/Mar/14 Lead dog

Couldn't do the top moves.

jonleighton 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
holister 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
with pete, andy, lee
Stuart William 05/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go after quickly working out the moves as a warm up. Was expecting it to take much longer so a happy bunny.

with Jim
brew_guru 04/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Soooooo close to the on-site!''

with Mike Goldthorp
richiebongo 01/Mar/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint after a go the other week. Not too bad once i sussed the crossover move.

with Ra, Nick Smith
stevoland ?/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/14 Lead
afrosam 16/Feb/14 Lead RP
with DaveX
_m.cox_ 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Al Sarhan, Ben West
JM ??/2014 Lead O/S
JM ??/2014 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ??/2014 -
misterb 08/Dec/13 Lead dog

1 nails move

Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Nov/13 Lead RP
Nick Russell 22/Nov/13 Lead RP

Just missed the flash attempt, quick RP. Fun moves over the roof.

Alex Winter 22/Nov/13 Lead β

Flashed on Helen's draws and with Nick's beets. Probably easier for the tall.

with Nick
danmullett 12/Nov/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Pretty good climbing actually

Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead
El3ctroFuzz 12/Oct/13 -

*Roof | Easy climbing up to the roof, so a bit soft.

with Elaine Budden
mikeshewring 05/Oct/13 Lead RP

2nd go

tobydunford 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Tomar
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
ollie_e 18/Aug/13 Lead β

Flash, easy to the roof, then big reaches.

chrisscutt 18/Aug/13 Lead RP
with oly
Adam Booth 11/Aug/13 Lead dog

Cool route.

Ricky Rocks 14/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ant
Ross.Cooper 10/Jun/13 Lead dog

Nice moves though too powerful for me at the end of a trip

Ian Ash 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
Stefan Kruger 18/May/13 Lead RP
3 Names 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead β
Be Fuller 18/Apr/13 Lead RP

so nearly an onsite...nice big moves at the top!

Jeronimo 30/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
drcorbasisgod 19/Feb/13 Lead RP
with Marc Weisner
BeccaSnowden 01/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Tom
thomasadixon 01/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Becca
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead β
Stanley 30/Aug/12 Lead RP

Brilliant route, probably my favorite on the crag due to the awesome pockets on the top section. Think the smaller climbers might have to find different ways to do it and it might be harder for them. Bottom is quite easy to fall off though I thought.

with Jim
Elaine Budden 19/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Cherry Bedford
Luuuuuke 09/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Si
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 29/May/12 Lead RP

Felt hard to me, fair at 7a+. Missed the holds over the roof first go, sequence is not too obvious. It felt easy enough second go though, once I knew what to do

with Nicola
con321 27/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go soft 7a+? Wicked route well worth doing

alek 12/May/12 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 12/May/12 Lead rpt
_m.cox_ 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Laurence Everitt 12/May/12 Lead RP
yan hawkins 12/May/12 Lead RP
with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
Martin Cleaver 19/Apr/12 Lead β


with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 19/Apr/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

Sharp holds and very thuggy. Felt hard. not for me.

with Jenni
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead RP
Bates 21/Mar/12 Lead RP
pezzerrr 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead RP
Pippa 19/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Justin T 11/Feb/12 Lead β
Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 11/Feb/12 Lead
John Mcshea ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
Jay81 14/Jan/12 Lead RP
with Tomar
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 26/Dec/11 Lead dog
JKinsella 17/Dec/11 Lead RP

I don't think this is height dependent, I'm not particularly short but it wasn't reachy at all. Very soft 7a+.

westyb3 04/Dec/11 Lead rpt
with Tom Harrison
Tris.w 30/Nov/11 Lead RP

6a+ to v3 or so

with Tomar
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/11 -
jgustafsson 13/Nov/11 Lead dog

Failed onsight at the end of a long day - powered out on the poor undercut in the roof. Surely can't be 7b.

with Ian
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead dog
Glyn 06/Nov/11 Lead β
with Tom Skelhon
westyb3 04/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Heather Ogston
oggles ?/Nov/11 TR dog
drcorbasisgod 10/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Wendy 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Second go

with James Marshall
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead β
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Ciro 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Nice line, and hard to onsight with the blind move at the crux, but not 7a+

with Ramon
Ramon Marin 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
with ciaran tracey
willsm11 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Buster
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
peaches69 16/Mar/11 Lead rpt

coming ova the roof used a shite left hand near el chocco and manteled, seen sum people before heelhooking, where they did that i'll never know! didn't realise it crosses over rightwards to more jugs. got 2nd go.

with connor
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
jimmatthews 05/Mar/11 Lead β


Tomar 05/Mar/11 Lead RP

Finally nailed this roof! 1st attempt of my 4th visit, on someone else's clips. Still feels like a 7b to me.

Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead RP
Greg Pittam 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Keltie
Tim M 26/Feb/11 Lead RP

second go - not very hard once you know where the holds are

with Steve W
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Lead dog
Pippa 12/Dec/10 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 09/Dec/10 Lead β
brices 05/Dec/10 Lead RP
Ricky Rocks 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
tskelhon 24/Oct/10 Lead RP
with skeen
Hidden 18/Sep/10 TR O/S
J.Wells 06/Aug/10 Lead β
with Kev, Gordon Wright
Kevster 06/Aug/10 Lead
dean79 13/Jun/10 TR dog
Luke Dawson 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 07/May/10 Lead RP
with douglas
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead RP
Bristoldave 01/May/10 Lead dog
with douglas
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead dnf
bensendz 06/Feb/10 Lead rpt

4th go i think - a bit morhpo/height dependent, definitely 7b for me...who cares though, such cool moves through the roof! brean is awesome - psyched!

archiecb 01/Feb/10 Lead β

Seems to be a bit morpho - I am quite tall so I found it easy and flashed it. My partner (who climbs easily hard enough to do this) found it quite hard and felt definitely 7b.

Luke d 17/Jan/10 TR

should have flashed

Richard Hall 17/Jan/10 Lead β

Flash. Pretty easy for 7a+.

with Gaz
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead β
Dr Caterpillar 15/Nov/09 Lead dog

not enough power

with Will Goldsmith, Doug
Dan Jenkin ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead β
Jon_Warner 18/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Tried to go direct after roof. Would be very difficult. Will look for holds out right next time!

eddieclimb 01/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Rebecca Edwards
_m.cox_ ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead RP
Marti999 13/Nov/07 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
g2 15/Feb/07 Lead

There is no way its 7a+, with a hands free rest.

g2 ??/2007 -
lx 16/Sep/06 Lead


with fat boy
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 17/Mar/06 Lead RP

Excellent finish.

Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Jake Shaw ??/2006 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 08/Jul/05 Lead RP
with paul
Paz ?/May/05 Lead RP

2nd day on.

with AS
John Southworth ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lawsy_boy1, k_k, adrian perera, Hidden, Hidden, josh baldwin, Hidden, Hidden, Kemics, Hidden, Hidden, explodingsprouts, Hidden, dean79, Jack R-N, Hidden
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set