UKC

19m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Sennen classic that is very photogenic. Start at a right-leading flake right of the arete.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the flake to the base of a chimney/crack. Take the precarious chimney/crack via some initially insecure moves to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 7m. Move up to the right-hand side of the overhanging nose above, then undercut left to good holds and pull up to easier ground and the top just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Kernow , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , West Country Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Rockfax West Country top 50 , HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014 , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Libby Peter's HS Hit List , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , University of Exeter must tick's , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , South West Coastal Solo , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , British Rock Tour April '24 , Llidberis South West Tour

Feedback

User Date Notes
RichPacker 2 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux to be the chimney rather than the top, I found not getting too far inside the crack was the way for me. It felt sandbagged to me although seasoned chimney climbers may find it easy.
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux to be the chimney rather than the top, I found not getting too far inside the crack was the way for me. It felt sandbagged to me although seasoned chimney climbers may find it easy.
dig26 23 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The crux chimney is easier and more flowy when laybacking in on the right, but after trying both, the thrutching is definitely more ‘Classic Rock’ (type II fun). Great route.
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βeta: The crux chimney is easier and more flowy when laybacking in on the right, but after trying both, the thrutching is definitely more ‘Classic Rock’ (type II fun). Great route.
jonesdwill 28 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gull nesting at the belay so recommend darting left at the top of the crack to avoid a fight.
Show beta
βeta: Gull nesting at the belay so recommend darting left at the top of the crack to avoid a fight.
Lumbering Oaf 25 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Herring gulls still nested at the start of P2. Potential for midriff pecking if traversing into P2.
Show beta
βeta: Herring gulls still nested at the start of P2. Potential for midriff pecking if traversing into P2.
ryan_keith_thomas 8 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Seagulls nesting at the top of pitch 1.
Show beta
βeta: Seagulls nesting at the top of pitch 1.
RichardN 21 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Still don't like the chimney moves. Worth it for top pitch.
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βeta: Still don't like the chimney moves. Worth it for top pitch.
Sparrowface 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Can be easily done in one pitch (with a 60m rope)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be easily done in one pitch (with a 60m rope)
Salvo1 4 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic flake leading to the chimney crack. Awkward initial footwork in the chimney but moving by out eased it. Great moving out & around the nose onto the last big holds. Great!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic flake leading to the chimney crack. Awkward initial footwork in the chimney but moving by out eased it. Great moving out & around the nose onto the last big holds. Great!
harrybeadle 12 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No sign of Gull 12/Sept
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No sign of Gull 12/Sept
whenry 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The gul chick is still nesting on the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The gul chick is still nesting on the ledge.
colinai 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Chick still nesting today 17/7/19
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chick still nesting today 17/7/19
DaveGoesClimbing 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The bird nest was still there today, shouldn't really be passed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bird nest was still there today, shouldn't really be passed.
EarlyBird 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed without having read the recent comments re Gull's nest. I can report that the chick is doing well and doesn't seem too bothered by passing climbers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed without having read the recent comments re Gull's nest. I can report that the chick is doing well and doesn't seem too bothered by passing climbers.
silentmajority 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Did not start thanks to the presence of the gull and chick, although sadly an ignorant group were not as respectful and dropped a top rope straight past the nest
Show beta
βeta: Did not start thanks to the presence of the gull and chick, although sadly an ignorant group were not as respectful and dropped a top rope straight past the nest

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 309
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 285
Votes cast 304
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terrier's Tooth

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)

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