Rockfax Description
An exposed and run-out pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall.
1) 5a, 30m. Move up a rib and wall on the left to ledges (belay of Krapp's Last Tape and Main Wall Eliminate on the right). Move up and traverse left until a rib can be climbed past a spike to a bulge and peg. Pull up into the groove above the bulge, peg, and climb it until a belay can be taken at some horizontal breaks.
2) 6b, 25m. Move up to the pink wall and clip two bolts above (on Think Pink). Move left and then up a line of holds into the middle of the wall. Climb rightwards, bolt, and then up, bolt, before traversing right into a groove (on Think Pink), bolt. Hard moves out left into a shallow niche are followed by a big run out above it which ends at a peg and better holds. A short bulging section gains a belay ledge and tree on the right.
3) 6b, 13m. Climb a slim groove past a peg and make a long move up the wall above to another peg. Finish leftwards. © Rockfax
R Harrison, D Carter (D J Hermalin, R A Broomhead (at A3) 2/Jun/1974) 20/Mar/1981.
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks , Local Trad , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes , Best of Bristol Sport
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))