A very exposed and runout pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall..
1) 5a, 30m. Move up a rib and wall on the left to ledges (belay of Krapp's Last Tape and Main Wall Eliminate on the right). Move up and traverse left until a rib can be climbed past a spike to a bulge and peg. Pull up into the groove above the bulge, peg, and climb it until a belay can be taken at some horizontal breaks..
2) 6b, 25m. Move up to the pink wall and clip two bolts above (on Think Pink). Move left and then up a line of holds into the middle of the wall. Climb rightwards, bolt, and then up, bolt, before traversing right into a groove (on Think Pink), bolt. Hard moves out left into a shallow niche are followed by a big runout above it which ends at a peg and better holds. A short bulging section gains a belay ledge and tree on the right..
3) 6b, 13m. Climb a slim groove past a peg and make a long move up the wall above to another peg. Finish leftwards. © ROCKFAX
R Harrison, D Carter (D J Hermalin, R A Broomhead (at A3) 2/Jun/1974) 20/Mar/1981
Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks.
Photo: Tom Heslam on Pink Ginsane © Spacetourist
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This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Took the mega ride at the end of the runout first go, pulled ropes and got it second go, must be one of the best routes in Avon
brices - Lead G/U - 08/Apr/15 with Cailean
Took the 10 meter ride off a greasy sloper. Pulled the ropes and climbed it 2nd go. Great pitch.
Cailean Harker - Lead G/U - 08/Apr/15 with brice
Surely all this traversing off into think pink is just cheating?! Much better to clip the twin bolts and get on with it. carry straight on up the top pitch of think pink for an amazing pitch
Ged Desforges - 2012
gazhbo - Lead - Jun/11
Mike Owen - 11/Aug/85 with Simon King
Not 6b, the climbing's not that hard technically. But it is sustained and scary so definitely worth E5. Must go back and lead it sometime. Great route. Fifth acsent.
stp - 2nd - 03/Oct/83 with Warren? from Australia
dan ely, Stanners, _m.cox_