Steady lead by Andy. The climbing is great, and pretty sustained between the rests. Better protected than the grade suggests, although it wouldn't be a good idea to fall off before the flake.Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Andy
Sustained intricacies. Very cool route with a devious line. A lot happier once I got to the flake, from there runouts between good gear clusters led me up, down, across, and every which way :)
AJM - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Alex Winter
Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/13
Very intricate and enjoyable, but took me ages to lead. Maybe a bit tough for 5b (or maybe it's just because I'm more accustomed to swinging axes at the moment than balancing up the gorge). A good start to the season
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/13 with Ross Davidson
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/13
captain - 2013
jcw - 2013
colesy - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12
Probably the longest I have ever spent trying to lead a pitch! Well over an hour I think! Wasn't really any easy moves in whole thing although no distinct crux either. Not sure about three stars although maybe if I where better I would have enjoyed it more!
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Gary
Cailean Harker - 2nd - 03/Aug/12
Awesome route, meandering all over the place, great fun weaving your way up. Starts a bit bold but once you get up to the shothole runner theres bomber gear where you need it, definitely a few 5c moves in there, and not atall as bold as an E3 5b would suggest. Link-up with Think Pink is an absolute beauty, 2 constrastingly classic E3 pitches, get on it!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Gaz, Cailean Harker
Seconded previously with Marti.
Ed Babs - Lead β - 28/Jul/12 with Iain Moodie
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12
Didn't feel particularly hard or bold after I'd clipped the peg with the tat (technical bridging that was very good but I really wouldn't have wanted to fall off) on but definately felt hard on the feet! Probably new shoes and just spending too long standing around on the rests really. Great route with route finding that always seems confusing until you do it.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Becca
Found it terrifying to second. Once I'd fallen off once I lost my confidence and just gave up trying not to fall.
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Tom
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Ed Babington
colesy - 2012
Hidden - 2nd - 2012
Terrifyingly insecure for those unaccustomed to the fine art of Avon weirdness, monster rope drag, wonderful!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/11 with Cherry
Great climb. All balance and not bold where it counts (a bit thin low down but steady). Lots of technical bridging, its a jigsaw, put it together. Big swing off whilst moving back up the groove to the final overhang - back to the start of the hard climbing so back again and much easier the 2nd time.
philhilo - Lead - 13/Nov/11 with misha
Brilliant balancy technical climbing, never desperate but rarely straightforward - best route of this type that I've ever done. Lots of sustained hard 5b sequences but also lots of in-balance rests to ponder the next sequence. The gear isn't as bad as the grade would suggest (run out in places but didn't find it scary, probably because it wasn't that hard) so perhaps only E2, though I wouldn't want to fall off on most of it! Late start from Leamington after the club annual dinner so got to the crag towards 2pm and didn't start the route till 3.30pm. Took best part of 2 hours for me and Ed to get up it so had just over an hour of daylight left and Ed didn't fancy Think Pink anyway so decided to be sensible and abbed off the bolted belay up and right (two old bolts and a newish one linked by old tat - could do with replacing). First route after 5 weekends off climbing after starting a relationship with Holly (who was going to a gig in Cornwall). Good to be back on the rock and good to see I could still climb! A very nice day for October, got a bit hot when the sun came out.
Misha - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Ed
Utterly exhausting! Sustained 5b sequences,often difficult to read, not many proper rests.
Did this "more or less" clean - probably slight tension on the rope at times.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Misha
Hidden - 2011
GeoffG - 2011
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 21/Jan/09 with Howard
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 2009
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with sam read
Billg - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Bob Brewer
Paz - 2nd rpt - 12/Mar/08 with HA
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/08
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/07
_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Jul/07 with Adam Mulholland
haydng - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06
Contrary to what I may have lead anyone to believe, there aren't any particularly new looking pegs in this route. Not that you need them, by any means. It's a bold E3, go figure. You're going to get scared, but one way or the other you're probably not going to die. And if you're used to Avon routes on shit gear then you have an acclimatisation advantage over most folks who hack up and turn up and get on three star routes that will leave you pleasantly surprised.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/06 with AB
Bern - 2006
Hidden - 2006
Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/05 with Torran Elson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/05
joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 16/May/05 with Nick Gillette
Paz - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/04 with AS
Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Apr/04
Expecting to virtually solo, but actually not badly protected.
KRB - Lead β - 15/Dec/01 with unseconded
Ally Smith - 2000
Tim M - 2000
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/99
Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/98 with jon
Hidden - 2nd - 1998
AndySL - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/95 with Tim
Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/95
Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/94 with Dave Stott
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/89
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989
E2, 5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/88 with Charlie Everett
keefe - 20/Aug/88
DDDD - 1988
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
given E2 at the time
John Marsland - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/85 with Mark Cohen
Mike Owen - 16/Oct/84 with Simon King
and Mike ????
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 30/Sep/84 with Gordon Jenkin
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/83 with Dave Green
andy gittins - 1983
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/82
stp - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/82
Hidden - 1981
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - 1980
peterbeaumont - 1980
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/79
Brilliant climb - had seconded it previously (1975?) but just had to lead it myself. Continued up Think Pink (with the aid allowed at the time) for a tremendous combination.
petemeads - Lead - 1977 with not sure...
ian caton - Lead O/S - Jul/76 with steve scott