Krapp's Last Tape*** E3 5b

Rockfax Description
An Avon rite of passage. Good climbing with a bold feel, although the gear improves as height is gained. Start at a peg and nut belay on a high ledge reached via the initial 9m of Pink Ginsane's first pitch.
Take the easy-angled groove above the belay to a peg. Step up above the peg and pull out left on to the wall, good small nut. Move up and bridge right to a point below an overhang with pegs below it. Pull over the overhang, good nut in borehole, to a peg before moving down right and then up to an overhang, peg and another good nut. Traverse left below the overhang past a peg to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt. Finish up Think Pink or abseil off. © ROCKFAX

E Ward Drummond, C Woodhead May/1967

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

My first E3 and what a cracker. Just slowly padded up it. Gear was good, slightly run out, but no real fall-offable moves. Really really nice intricate climbing
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/15 with Peter M

LRob - Lead - 03/Jun/15

What a great climb!! Quite a bold start, not to be underestimated. Looks easier than it is. Followed by varied climbing and superb route finding! You can feel the history of this line, that's how they must have climbed and picked their lines back in the days...
climbomaniac - Lead O/S - 17/May/15

Although the start is a bit bold its mostly not too bad. Could be e2
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/15 with Mike

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Steve Barnard

just one more - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with lucas

Avon Man - Lead O/S - 11/May/14 with msoldn

Steady lead by Andy. The climbing is great, and pretty sustained between the rests. Better protected than the grade suggests, although it wouldn't be a good idea to fall off before the flake.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Andy

Sustained intricacies. Very cool route with a devious line. A lot happier once I got to the flake, from there runouts between good gear clusters led me up, down, across, and every which way :)
AJM - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Alex Winter

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/13

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 14/Apr/13 with FatRob

Very intricate and enjoyable, but took me ages to lead. Maybe a bit tough for 5b (or maybe it's just because I'm more accustomed to swinging axes at the moment than balancing up the gorge). A good start to the season
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/13 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/13

captain - 2013

jcw - 2013

colesy - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12

Probably the longest I have ever spent trying to lead a pitch! Well over an hour I think! Wasn't really any easy moves in whole thing although no distinct crux either. Not sure about three stars although maybe if I where better I would have enjoyed it more!
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Gary

Cailean Harker - 2nd - 03/Aug/12

Awesome route, meandering all over the place, great fun weaving your way up. Starts a bit bold but once you get up to the shothole runner theres bomber gear where you need it, definitely a few 5c moves in there, and not atall as bold as an E3 5b would suggest. Link-up with Think Pink is an absolute beauty, 2 constrastingly classic E3 pitches, get on it!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Gaz, Cailean Harker

Seconded previously with Marti.
Ed Babs - Lead β - 28/Jul/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Didn't feel particularly hard or bold after I'd clipped the peg with the tat (technical bridging that was very good but I really wouldn't have wanted to fall off) on but definately felt hard on the feet! Probably new shoes and just spending too long standing around on the rests really. Great route with route finding that always seems confusing until you do it.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Becca

Found it terrifying to second. Once I'd fallen off once I lost my confidence and just gave up trying not to fall.
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Tom

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Ed Babington

colesy - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd - 2012 with Alex Haslehurst

Terrifyingly insecure for those unaccustomed to the fine art of Avon weirdness, monster rope drag, wonderful!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/11 with Cherry

Great climb. All balance and not bold where it counts (a bit thin low down but steady). Lots of technical bridging, its a jigsaw, put it together. Big swing off whilst moving back up the groove to the final overhang - back to the start of the hard climbing so back again and much easier the 2nd time.
philhilo - Lead - 13/Nov/11 with misha

Brilliant balancy technical climbing, never desperate but rarely straightforward - best route of this type that I've ever done. Lots of sustained hard 5b sequences but also lots of in-balance rests to ponder the next sequence. The gear isn't as bad as the grade would suggest (run out in places but didn't find it scary, probably because it wasn't that hard) so perhaps only E2, though I wouldn't want to fall off on most of it! Late start from Leamington after the club annual dinner so got to the crag towards 2pm and didn't start the route till 3.30pm. Took best part of 2 hours for me and Ed to get up it so had just over an hour of daylight left and Ed didn't fancy Think Pink anyway so decided to be sensible and abbed off the bolted belay up and right (two old bolts and a newish one linked by old tat - could do with replacing). First route after 5 weekends off climbing after starting a relationship with Holly (who was going to a gig in Cornwall). Good to be back on the rock and good to see I could still climb! A very nice day for October, got a bit hot when the sun came out.
Misha - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Ed

Utterly exhausting! Sustained 5b sequences,often difficult to read, not many proper rests. Did this "more or less" clean - probably slight tension on the rope at times.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Misha

Marcus - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 21/Jan/09 with Howard

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 2009

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with sam read

Billg - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Bob Brewer

Paz - 2nd rpt - 12/Mar/08 with HA

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/07

_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Jul/07 with Adam Mulholland

haydng - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

Contrary to what I may have lead anyone to believe, there aren't any particularly new looking pegs in this route. Not that you need them, by any means. It's a bold E3, go figure. You're going to get scared, but one way or the other you're probably not going to die. And if you're used to Avon routes on shit gear then you have an acclimatisation advantage over most folks who hack up and turn up and get on three star routes that will leave you pleasantly surprised.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/06 with AB

Bern - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/05 with Torran Elson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/05

joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 16/May/05 with Nick Gillette

Paz - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/04 with AS

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Apr/04

Expecting to virtually solo, but actually not badly protected.
KRB - Lead β - 15/Dec/01 with unseconded

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/98 with jon

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/95 with Tim

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/94 with Dave Stott

Fantastic route, intricate and devious. Very absorbing. Felt every bit E3 5B. Cheers Dave and your 500 year old Ed Drummond guide book for telling me it was HVS.
garycrocker - Lead O/S - May/89

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

E2, 5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/88 with Charlie Everett

keefe - 20/Aug/88

DDDD - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

given E2 at the time
John Marsland - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/85 with Mark Cohen

Mike Owen - 16/Oct/84 with Simon King

and Mike ????
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 30/Sep/84 with Gordon Jenkin

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/83 with Dave Green

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/82

stp - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

peterbeaumont - 1980

steve L - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/79 with Haydn Griffiths

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/79

Brilliant climb - had seconded it previously (1975?) but just had to lead it myself. Continued up Think Pink (with the aid allowed at the time) for a tremendous combination.
petemeads - Lead - 1977 with not sure...

ian caton - Lead O/S - Jul/76 with steve scott

Uni' years
D Tempest - Lead - Jan/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JoeE, EyebrowTom, Andy Peak 1, richiebongo, dan ely, Ian Jones, andy dunn

Total votes cast 54
hard E40 of 19
E40 of 19
easy E40 of 19
hard E30 of 19
E313 of 19
easy E33 of 19
hard E22 of 19
E21 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard 5c0 of 19
5c0 of 19
easy 5c7 of 19
hard 5b9 of 19
5b3 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
hard 5a0 of 19
5a0 of 19
easy 5a0 of 19
3 Stars14 of 16
2 Stars2 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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