Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Wall) >
 
The Preter** E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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An airy voyage taking in some of the Main Wall's best positions. The climbing is very sustained and some of it serious. Nevertheless, the gear - when present - is good. The first pitch is dangerously loose, however the original start to Malbogies provides a worthy alternative. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.. 1) 5a, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to a gap between two overhangs and pull up right into a corner. Climb the corner (very loose) to an overhang and bush (thread above). Pull over the overhang and move left to the shattered wall of Malbogies. Follow the wall and corner to the first stance of Malbogies.. 1a) 5b, 23m. The Original Malbogies Start. From the Malbogies stance, move up a right-trending groove to a slim overhang and a peg. Pull over and climb the wall above with difficulty to a ledge. Continue as for Malbogies to its first stance.. 2) 5b, 28m. Downclimb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb the excellent groove past a peg to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.. 3) 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall. © ROCKFAX
There is some dangerously loose rock on pitch 1 whcih seems to be getting worse. Probably best to avoid this pitch.
E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill 01/May/1966

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good. The climbing is quite intricate and difficult to read in places, although feels ok once figured out.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/13 with Nick

I led p2, Alex pitches 1 and 3. Very intricate climbing, technically sustained but mostly in balance and not at all strenuous. Classic Avon.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/13 with Alex

Aaron Lines - AltLd - 10/Oct/12 with martin

Led pitch 1 (Malbogies direct start) and pitch 3. Interesting climbing, shame about overgrown top.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Tom

Led 2nd pitch, found it pretty hard - especially to figure out where I was supposed to be going! Okay climbing when you do, though not too happy with the choss at the top of the 2nd pitch. 3rd pitch was pretty good.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Becca

........not doing the actual pitch 1 of this route ever again. Had to lower off peg and thread. Looks amazing pitch 2 and 3 though so will return with alternate start.
Stanners - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/12 with James Rich

Via Malbogies original start. Lead P2+3 combined
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Kenne

kenneM - AltLd - 15/Jul/12

first pitch is horrifically loose pulled off a big hold and took a whipper, the peg is good at least :) flapper on finger and swollen ankle not so great. wish i read the description on here before trying this
brices - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/12 with Andy Brice

kenneM - 2012

GeoffG - 2011

Stevie hyper dee lead the bold 2nd pitch, which had virtually no gear, classic avon.
Rick hard Rock - AltLd - 03/Jun/10

Led pitches 1 and 2. 1st pitch seemed a bit dangerous.
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Charlie Everett

Pleasant
KRB - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Chris Bridges

1st pitch very dangerous state large loose flakes no gear. Avoid
Marti999 - AltLd - 13/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rob

Bern - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/05

led P2,P3 (both 5b)
Paz - AltLd O/S - Feb/04 with TS

Tim M - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Gudge - AltLd - 2000

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96

phardman - AltLd - 15/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

Cowflinger - AltLd O/S - Jun/95 with John Williams

shoulders - AltLd - Jun/95 with chrisevans

shark - Lead - 1995 with John Codling

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

bullybones - 1990

had seconded in Feb 88. E2,5a,5b,5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead β - 08/Jan/89 with Charlie Everett

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 17/Feb/88 with Doug Shaw, John Stringfellow

DDDD - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Oct/86

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

andy gittins - 1983

2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/82

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/82

stp - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/82

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Kafoozalem - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/78 with David Walter

Hidden - 13/Jul/75

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dizz, Master Chief, Ian Jones, andy dunn
Voting
Total votes cast 34
hard E30 of 12
E30 of 12
easy E31 of 12
hard E21 of 12
E210 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard E10 of 12
E10 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard 5c0 of 12
5c0 of 12
easy 5c2 of 12
hard 5b3 of 12
5b7 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
hard 5a0 of 12
5a0 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
3 Stars5 of 10
2 Stars3 of 10
1 Star1 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....1 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 49 (24.5%)
Followed2 of 49 (4.1%)
Alt Leads19 of 49 (38.8%)
Unknown16 of 49 (32.7%)

'Climbed'26 of 49 (53.1%)
clean O/S20 of 49 (40.8%)
clean β1 of 49 (2.0%)
dnf2 of 49 (4.1%)