The Preter*** E2 5b
[Alex Harper on The Preter, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
An airy voyage taking in some of the Main Wall's best positions. The climbing is very sustained and some of it serious. Nevertheless, the gear - when present - is good. The first pitch is dangerously loose, however the original start to Malbogies provides a worthy alternative. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.
1) 5a, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to a gap between two overhangs and pull up right into a corner. Climb the corner (very loose) to an overhang and bush (thread above). Pull over the overhang and move left to the shattered wall of Malbogies. Follow the wall and corner to the first stance of Malbogies.
1a) 5b, 23m. The Original Malbogies Start. From the Malbogies stance, move up a right-trending groove to a slim overhang and a peg. Pull over and climb the wall above with difficulty to a ledge. Continue as for Malbogies to its first stance.
2) 5b, 28m. Downclimb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb the excellent groove past a peg to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.
3) 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
There is some dangerously loose rock on pitch 1 whcih seems to be getting worse. Probably best to avoid this pitch.

E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill 01/May/1966

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Alex Harper on The Preter ©
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This climb is in 65 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd β - 16/Apr/15

mike mo - 2014

Lead p1&3. Great route! Bit of extra juggy fun taking the final capping roof on p3 direct.
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Mark

Avon Man - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with msoldn

A great route. Did the Malbogies direct start. The crux of that took some figuring out, nicely technical. The shared section of Malbogies itself felt pretty run out in places for HVS 5a! Brilliantly crazy line on P2, hard to figure out where to go (little chalk on the route) and sustained technical interest throughout. Down, across, up, down, across, up, across! Belayed right below where P3 goes through the overhanging band, which was a good spot for protecting Ed on the traverse but not so great for P3 as there's hardly any gear on it and it was right above the belay. Wasn't too concerned though, nicely sustained 5b and 5a climbing but nothing desperate. There was an old peg and RPs about 5 metes above the belay and then another 5+ metres to where things eased off. An Avon classic and top end E2. Led all pitches.
Misha - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Ed

A relentlessy devious line, excellent technical climbing.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Misha

Wish I read the other route comments before climbing the route. My partner took a 35' fall on the first pitch. 3-4m above peg when hold gave way and he ended up 8-9m below it. Got up and went again though. I led 2nd and 3rd pitch, climbing was brilliant Gorge material. Do not climb the first pitch unless you want that really 'out there' experience.
gripped01 - AltLd - 06/Sep/13 with Jim Jarvis

Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good. The climbing is quite intricate and difficult to read in places, although feels ok once figured out.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/13 with Nick

I led p2, Alex pitches 1 and 3. Very intricate climbing, technically sustained but mostly in balance and not at all strenuous. Classic Avon.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/13 with Alex Winter

E2, pushing E4 elsewhere in the country. Mildly terrifying gear situations on P2 - very peggy!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - Apr/13 with Tim Neill

jcw - 2013

Aaron Lines - AltLd - 10/Oct/12 with martin

Led pitch 1 (Malbogies direct start) and pitch 3. Interesting climbing, shame about overgrown top.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Tom

Led 2nd pitch, found it pretty hard - especially to figure out where I was supposed to be going! Okay climbing when you do, though not too happy with the choss at the top of the 2nd pitch. 3rd pitch was pretty good.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Becca

........not doing the actual pitch 1 of this route ever again. Had to lower off peg and thread. Looks amazing pitch 2 and 3 though so will return with alternate start.
Stanners - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/12 with James Rich

Via Malbogies original start. Lead P2+3 combined
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Kenne

kenneM - AltLd - 15/Jul/12 with Ed

first pitch is horrifically loose pulled off a big hold and took a whipper, the peg is good at least :) flapper on finger and swollen ankle not so great. wish i read the description on here before trying this
brices - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/12 with Andy Brice

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12

GeoffG - 2011

Stevie hyper dee lead the bold 2nd pitch, which had virtually no gear, classic avon.
Ricky Rocks - AltLd - 03/Jun/10

Led pitches 1 and 2. 1st pitch seemed a bit dangerous.
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Charlie Everett

billb - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Rich Smith

KRB - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Chris Bridges

1st pitch very dangerous state large loose flakes no gear. Avoid
Marti999 - AltLd - 13/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rob

Bern - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/05

led P2,P3 (both 5b)
Paz - AltLd O/S - Feb/04 with TS

Tim M - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Gudge - AltLd O/S - 2000 with BUMC

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/99

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96

phardman - AltLd - 15/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

Cowflinger - AltLd O/S - Jun/95 with John Williams

shoulders - AltLd - Jun/95 with chrisevans

shark - Lead - 1995 with John Codling

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/94 with Dave Stott

markpollak - 1994 with suzanne mcfadzean

bullybones - 1990

had seconded in Feb 88. E2,5a,5b,5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead β - 08/Jan/89 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 17/Feb/88 with Doug Shaw, John Stringfellow

DDDD - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Oct/86

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/82

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/82

redjerry - AltLd - Apr/82 with Jim Melrose

stp - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/78

Marcus - 13/Jul/75 with Pete Osborne

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Master Chief, Ian Jones, andy dunn

Total votes cast 46
hard E30 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E31 of 16
hard E22 of 16
E213 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c2 of 16
hard 5b4 of 16
5b10 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars7 of 14
2 Stars5 of 14
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