Lich Gates*** E2 5c
[Dave Talbot on the first pitch of Lich Gates, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Marvellous climbing and wildly exposed positions combine to make this route one of Avon's greatest excursions. The first pitch is serious for the second whilst the hard moves on pitch two are perfectly protected. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. From the left end of the higher ledge climb a groove to a good peg and wires. Traverse left to a poor peg and then downclimb left past a distinct finger edge to small ledges. Traverse left again until beneath a corner with a high prominent peg in its left wall. Move left again past a well fingered crack and a hidden peg via steep moves that allow a big quarry spike to be reached a little higher. Move left on easier rock to a stance in a yellow niche and good quarry spike belay 3m above.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up to the right-hand side of the big overhang, peg, and step right and up to a good ledge. Move up the left wall above the overhang with difficulty, 2 pegs, to easier ground. Move up to the leaning headwall and 2 pegs before traversing delicately right into a superbly-positioned groove, peg. Finish up the groove. © ROCKFAX

B Annette, G Clark (with 5 pts aid) 1961

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Bristol first E2s, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Dave Talbot on the first pitch of Lich Gates ©
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This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

tim.fairhall - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/15 with Sachi

Led the absolutely terrible pitch up to the breakfast ledge, Tim led p2 and I led p3. A few of the pitons on the traverse pitch are looking really dodgy and could do with replacing (a few key ones on the 3rd pitch are new). P2 is brilliant and requires some good routefinding, P3 is fairly obvious but has some bloody hard moves, both hauling up the steep, peg protected bulge and the traverse a little while after. Accidentally stepped on a peg on the crux bulge, but then again, whoever replaced the pegs decided to bang it in over a key foothold so I don't feel too bad :|
jsmcfarland - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/15 with Tim

Wild! Fantastic intricate traverse on p1 to some surprisingly tricky moves to finish. p2 wildly exposed stepping out over the lip of the overhang then a great delicate traverse. Quality!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Ric E

Led the first pitch, seconded the 2nd.
hutchay - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Lucas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15

P2. Amazing.
Chris_barr - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Mike

P1. Took some careful rope work on the first pitch. Wasn't expecting pitch to to be so awesome!
felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with misha

Did this after Felix led Moke's Mistake, traversing into the belay for this. Felix led the nomadic first pitch, clipping 10 million pegs in various states of decay. Easy to start but has a sustained steep finish. I did the top pitch, which is brilliant! The crux steep wall above the roof looked nails direct so I sort off stepped round it using some dodgy looking blocks out left. Think that's the way at the grade. The tricky exposed traverse was great fun.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Felix

danmullett - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/14

JZ stormed up the puppy, clinging on like a limpit! Absolutely wicked route with maximal exposure reeet on the (hard) 5c crux, though well protected with new-ish pegs throughout! Will be all over it again someday like a fat kid on a cupcake!
steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Jamie Roberts

Very good climbing, but very exposed and scary, but the protection is very good. Was gutted i acciedently stepped on a peg on the crux but i did the rest of it clean so i am statisfied.
zcsharp - Lead dog - 01/Nov/14 with Steve Gibbs

Lead last bit of pitch 1 and pitch 2.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Jon Didymus

Led most but not all of p1. 2 points of aid seconding p2. All felt hard but still not feeling good.
Jon Didymus - AltLd - 04/Sep/14 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/14

Great route, first pitch was exciting to second, second pitch was great.
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Andrew Twemlow

twem - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Alastair

Great route! Led P1. Trod on peg on crux
clams - AltLd - Jul/14 with Jim

alasdair19 - 2014

Pulled off a big crumbly bit of wall on the 'scramble' up to breakfast ledge. Roped up after that and pitched the remainder to the ledge. Dan took the first pitch which wasn't as bold to second as the guidebook makes out, I led the second pitch which was very dusty to start but once round the overhang got very good very quickly! All in all a great fun outing though I agree with below comments saying maybe not as great climbing as its reputation would suggest.
James S - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with dan

scary first pitch
Dan0Me - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with James S

Varied climbing and exposed situation, a good route. I led pitch 2: a distinct crux in the middle followed by an engaging traverse.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/13 with Martin

Led second pitch - excellent varied and exposed climbing. Seconding pitch 1 was terrifying!
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Alex Winter

Led first pitch, which was a bit dusty. Second pitch was cool.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Becca

Circles 5,6 and 7 of hell are probably cooler than it was on the day we climbed this.
Quarryboy - AltLd - 08/Jul/13 with Rob Stanfield

HOT. Led pitch 1 which is a lot better protected than expected but route finding takes a little care. Great route, must do again in normal temperatures!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Jack Bradbrook

jcw - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Sep/12

Brian H - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Kafoozalem

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Thomas Renshaw, Ted Lister

richardr - AltLd - 18/Aug/12 with Bill

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Would agree with KRB. I accept its an established classic, but couldn't really see why, it would get no more than 1 star on many crags
Billg - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Richard Ray

led p2
Aaron Lines - AltLd - 28/Dec/11 with frank ramsay

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/11

Crux felt pretty hard for 5c.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/11 with helen

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11

Did first pitch then abseiled off. Rusty peg didn't inspire Rich to gain left wall from belay
mick1jones - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/11 with Rich Rogers

P1 only, backed off for various reasons..
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 04/Jul/11

Squeezed in after work and after the rain had dried off. A route that perhaps lives more off its reputation than its actual quality. That said, it does remain a good and adventurous outing - even to the extent that the belay between the main pitches has a knockout odour from the guano-coated rock more consistent with the bat caves of Borneo than a city crag. Hence not a climb for a slow party!
KRB - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/10 with Martin Bridges

P1 Only
andy dunn - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/10 with J

amazing route. Led the easy pitch up to breakfast ledge, fell at crux on 3rd pitch as dark was falling. Finished by the light of my rubbish headtorch.
joeurwin - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/10 with al franks

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Joe Urwin

P1 only tonight Route finding was a little time consuming to say the least (very enjoyable though. So we abbed off the belay spike in fading light. A great pitch, some exciting positions, some great traversing. Looking forwards to coming back for the second pitch.
andy dunn - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/10 with J

gripped01 - AltLd - Aug/10 with Alex Tomczynski

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/10

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/10 with oscar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09

Abbed before last pitch.
Chubbard - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/09 with J Robinson

Half way along traverse, loud crash as some youth tried to break into car necessitated retreat from spike to assess damage.
JimR - 18/Jul/09 with Charles H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09

billb - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Mike S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Led P2
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Joe

James Marshall - 2nd - 08/Aug/08

I led first pitch (E1 5a?) pulled on peg seconding second pitch due to rain and thunder
Urgles - AltLd - 01/Jul/08 with Pete (kafoozalem)

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/08 with Harry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/08

_m.cox_ - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Claire Durant, Jo Stadden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/07

some interesting moments but too meandering for my taste.
tonanf - AltLd β - 12/Oct/06 with burt

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

P2 only (topping out from Goth)
Paz - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/05 with RJ

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

I led top (5c)pitch
Urgles - AltLd O/S - Jul/04 with Jack G

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/03

led P1 (5a)
Paz - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/03 with TS

simon kimber - 2nd - 2002 with Tony Penning

Led P1. Utter shite
John Southworth - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/01 with Jason Parker

serby - Lead - Apr/00

Roget - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/00 with jon

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/99

lowersharpnose - AltLd - 02/Jul/98 with tombawimba

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 12/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

Hidden - AltLd - 1996

Mark led first pitch, I led second. The crux move is as hard as they say but well protected.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/95 with Mark

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

has 2nd before E1,5c** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead β - 02/Jan/89 with Charlie Everett

Finished/struggled on P1, lowered off on 9mm rope, nearly dropped myself
AndyB123 - 2nd - 1989

mark-abz - Lead - 14/May/88 with Andy W

DDDD - 1988

bullybones - Lead - 1988

adriandesouza - Lead O/S - May/87

sniffer - 2nd - 1987 with Paul Bruten

wynaptomos - Lead O/S - Mar/86

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 06/Sep/85 with George Sharpe

Mike Owen - 01/Aug/85 with Simon King, Elaine Owen

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/85

It was E1 then. Tried leading it later that year with both Phil Windall and John Warburton - failed both times... didn't like the state of the pegs and backed off cos I knew I was likely to fall.
JamieAyres - 2nd rpt - May/85 with Graham Aveyard

Richard Weller - AltLd - 06/Oct/84 with john sanders

1 pt aid
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 06/Oct/84 with Tim Dunsby

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 1984

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/83 with Simon ?

andy gittins - 1983

Lead pitch 2. Worth E2.
stp - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Mar/80

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/80

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Marcus - 07/Mar/76 with Pete Sutton

D Tempest - AltLd - Jan/76

Andy Chubb - 1976 with Rich Fooles

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

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Total votes cast 82
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat