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|Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Wall) >
|Changeling|| E5 6b|
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|An excellent route incorporating a lot of difficult and tenuous climbing as well as some serious situations on the first pitch. Start on Breakfast Ledge..
1) 6b, 42m. Follow Lich Gates up its initial groove to a peg and then move carefully up and slightly right to another peg and wires. Make bold moves diagonally left past a poor peg to join Peryl at a peg. Follow Peryl up right to a rest and then back left past pegs and move into a shallow groove with difficulty. From two bolts move up slightly right to 2 pegs and make some final pressing moves to a belay..
2) 6b, 12m. Climb up rightwards to a peg and wires, or, up left to a break and a thread and move right and down to the peg. From the peg move up and right to another peg and wires and so on to the top. A committing and exciting pitch. © ROCKFAX|
R Harrison, with J Edwards Jan/1978 (pitch 1), with G A Jenkin 2/Nov/1985 (pitch 2) 02/Nov/1985
Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
Awesome, one of the best e5's in Avon. Loose block on 1st pitch though that is pretty dangerous. Currently a big chalky x on it. Easy enough to avoid it. Might be worth someone going and getting rid of it though
Ged Desforges - 2012
Martin slipped as his untied school shoes fell off as he climbed up to the start of the climb, dragging me off the Breakfast Ledge leaving me dangling from the tree like an idiot belaying Martin round the waist who was also dangling like an idiot. Not a good start but no such problems on the route itself. A clean lead on a brilliant route that is bold and technical throughout.
KRB - Lead β - 17/Sep/05 with unseconded
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/96
Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/96
stp - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/83
andy gittins - Lead - 1983 with matt carr
Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/82
Users with this climb on their wishlist are: