Pink Wall Traverse** HVS 5a
[Martin relieved to be at the "aerodrome stance" on avon's best traverse. , 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Exposed and quirky traversing taking in some of Avon's most impressive locations. Start from The Gallery to the left of Lunchtime Ledge. Combined with Mike's Mistake it forms a classically varied way up the cliff. The last pitch and a half is shared with Pink Wall Direct.
1) 16m. Traverse easily left beneath an overhang to a tree. Continue in the same line to pegs and a stance under the leaning headwall.
2) 4c, 22m. Downclimb the groove on the left to point level with the lowest of the three huge iron spikes in the sheer left wall. Make a tricky move to grab the first spike and then romp up the spikes to a fine and very exposed stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © ROCKFAX

M W Harvey (B G N Page, H Morgan with aid 1955) 1956

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2.

Photo: Martin relieved to be at the "aerodrome stance" on avon's best traverse. © Stanners
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 93 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Did what i believe to be a superior line, more in line with the character of the route and good for those who didn't get their fill of down climbing fill after the second pitch or can't route find for toffee. Firstly I presume I went too far on the first pitch, having not come across the peg belay (is it still there?) and ended up belaying awkwardly next to the insitu wire before the down climb. Annoyingly I seem to have left my screwgate in the wire (it was swag anyway). This left Nick with a convoluted way of doing a very short pitch. Then on the final pitch I was enticed off the (very bloody obviously right way) traverse by chalkmarks on the left. Downclimbed, did a crazy 'no hands' lunge (5b/c maybe?) to the left to enter the finishing corner of Lich Gates and climbed up that. Altogether making a satisfying w shape with the route. Nick wisely decided to follow along the normal route and downclimb for the gear.
sheelba - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/15 with Nick

nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/15

Slick - AltLd - 24/Jun/15 with Kevin Vans-Colina

I want to kiss the person who left the cord to back-rope the traverse.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/15 with neil morbey

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead - 06/Dec/14

Climbing festival. Bailed due to extreme heat! Finished up something easy, also the first bit of pitch two seemed extremely serious to second? Potential slip would mean a serious 20+ meter fall. That or I missed all the gear with heat stroke
Kemics - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Mel

Melonfly - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Caleb

RichardN - 2nd O/S - May/14

Entertaining. Led last pitch.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Alex

A poor man's Pink Wall Direct. The climbing it shares is fun, the climbing it doesn't is crap.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Peter H

mike mo - 2014

Poor climbing except for a couple of moves on the last pitch, good positions inevitably spoilt by the road!
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/13

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Neil Morbey

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Jamie Roberts

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Steve Gibbs

Combined with the corner. Urban mountaineering at its best! (Led pitch 2)
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Alex Blaza

Great climb. Got lost on P1,P2 was great fun, gunning up the bars and P3 was splendid, airy climbing.
squicky - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Ben

P2, quality climb, excellent fun! P3 was excellent, just too short
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Iggy

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Micheal Dobinson

Lead pitch 1 and 3 2nd pitch felt like a lead even through I was seconding! Final pitch was fun
dobby 200 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Joe Doherty

this time iron spike pitch - good afternoon in the sun.
Stanners - AltLd rpt - 15/Feb/13 with Jack Bradbrook

Cool route, interestingly you actually cover very little distance despite lots of climbing. The final pitch can be a tad pumpy if you hang around for too long but isn't really that bad.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Rob Stanfield

Hidden - 2013

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jul/12

Did a variant on the last pitch - traversed low & then climbed up. More technical, but less pumpy and more protected when you needed it. Chris p1, 3, Rory p2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Rory Galvin

Route not obvious on P1. Two crucial footholds unlocked the traverse on the last pitch.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Chris Sansum

led 1st & 3rd
alidixon - 15/Jul/12

Really varied climbing! No 5a moves though, HVS 4c, just very pumpy. Last day before bird ban comes back in!
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Al

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/11

Incredible route! Lead 2nd pitch.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Caspian

andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with J

Stanley - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Robster666

Led P1 and p3. What an exciting evening! Very exposed with unusual downclimbing which was worrying to second.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield

Hidden - 2010

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Pete H

mark89 - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

I led the first 15m to belay on pegs in the corner. Justin led through the rest of the route. Finished in the dark, topping out through a headwall of gorse bushes!
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09 with justin

P1 - DL P2/3 (As one pitch) - J
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09 with justin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/08

Tried to free the bit past the spikes seconding, but fell off again off the move to the crumbly break! Not easy for 5c at all. Got the move second go.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/08 with WG

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08

very nice route, bit of a high altitude adventure. P2 not to be taken lightly though. Thought it was harder than 4b and serious to second.
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Francis

Francis Lister - 2nd - 03/May/08 with george evans

Move quickly through the hand traverse!
maresia - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Mike Kann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/07

Pitch 2 is as hard to second as to lead due to down climbing.
TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Dave Gale

Marti999 - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/07

Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/07 with Joe

gimmer - 2007

RedFox - AltLd - 03/May/06 with James B

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Andy Wylie

Marcus - 2006

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Alex Barrows

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

Lev - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/04 with Andrew Bitmead

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/04

Digger - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/03 with James Latham

Paz - AltLd rpt - Jul/03 with CC

IceMonkey1982 - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/02

Stone Muppet - 2002

retreated from about 5m below the top - pumped and benighted.
Paz - AltLd dnf - Nov/01 with AR

Billg - 2000

Hidden - 2000

mikej - AltLd - 21/Oct/95 with Nick Salmon

I led odds, Mark led second pitch. Third pitch is tremendous.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/95 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/89

Pete Nugent - Lead β - 1988

bullybones - Lead - 1988

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 10/May/87 with Pete Stokes

mark-abz - 2nd - 20/Oct/85 with Charlie G

lassoed top spike with a sling and pulled. led traverse off aerodrome - 2nd peg fun to clip
JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Jul/85 with Mark Hopkins

rob.grafton - Lead - 1985 with sarah matson

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 29/Nov/83 with Walter Phipps

TonyF - Lead - 01/May/83 with Paul Harrison

andy gittins - 1983

John Marsland - Lead - Sep/82 with Nick Ward

Lead pitchs 1 and 3.
stp - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/82

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/81 with Richard Dickenson

Steve Bell - 1981

Chris Terrey - 2nd - Jun/80 with Brian Wyvill

peterbeaumont - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/79

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1979 with Nick Stoughton, Martin Roberts

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/78

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - Aug/77 with Richard Hackett

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
smartydh9, JoeE, Alan100, aipattison, JonmapDL, innesmac, JamesRich, Ropeboy, Chris Sansum

Total votes cast 44
hard E10 of 15
E10 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard HVS1 of 15
HVS12 of 15
easy HVS2 of 15
hard VS0 of 15
VS0 of 15
easy VS0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a1 of 15
5a10 of 15
easy 5a3 of 15
hard 4c1 of 15
4c0 of 15
easy 4c0 of 15
3 Stars4 of 14
2 Stars7 of 14
1 Star3 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat