Rockfax Description
Exposed and quirky traversing taking in some of Avon's most impressive locations. Start from The Gallery to the left of Lunchtime Ledge. Combined with Reveille or Mike's Mistake it forms a classically varied way up the cliff. The last pitch and a half is shared with Pink Wall Direct.
1) 16m. Traverse easily left beneath an overhang to a tree. Continue in the same line to pegs and a stance under the leaning headwall.
2) 4c, 22m. Down climb the groove on the left to point level with the lowest of the three huge iron spikes in the sheer left wall. Make a tricky move to grab the first spike and then romp up the spikes to a fine and very exposed stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © Rockfax
M W Harvey (B G N Page, H Morgan with aid 1955) 1956.
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Avon GORGEous
User | Date | Notes | ||
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slawrence1001 | 27 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: ‘Peg belay’ after pitch 1 no longer intact. One peg left. Make sure you save some cams | βeta? | |
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βeta: ‘Peg belay’ after pitch 1 no longer intact. One peg left. Make sure you save some cams |
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Colin Knowles | 30 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Please remember to check the latest bird restriction before climbing. Nesting restrictions are liable to change at short notice. Thank you. | ||
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βeta: Please remember to check the latest bird restriction before climbing. Nesting restrictions are liable to change at short notice. Thank you. |
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Tall Oak | 25 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Forgot how good of a classic this is. The final pitch is mega | βeta? | |
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βeta: Forgot how good of a classic this is. The final pitch is mega |
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JulioFranco | 17 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: One of the ropes got stuck and we had to leave it behind. I would really appreciate it if whoever gets to it can give it back. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the ropes got stuck and we had to leave it behind. I would really appreciate it if whoever gets to it can give it back. |
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Dino Dave | 10 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Left-hand peg at the P1 belay is looking pretty dodgy with a fracture on the ring. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Left-hand peg at the P1 belay is looking pretty dodgy with a fracture on the ring. |
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Tall Oak | 22 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Led P2 and P3 in one. Loved the footwork to downclimb. The spikes seems cool to monkey around on. Favourite part was the final crack traverse where I could get my teeth stuck into. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led P2 and P3 in one. Loved the footwork to downclimb. The spikes seems cool to monkey around on. Favourite part was the final crack traverse where I could get my teeth stuck into. |
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Will789 | 7 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: The 2nd pitch is well protected on lead but quite bold for the second (especially at the crux) due to the downclimb. Backrope off the fixed krab if the second isn't feeling confident. | ||
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βeta: The 2nd pitch is well protected on lead but quite bold for the second (especially at the crux) due to the downclimb. Backrope off the fixed krab if the second isn't feeling confident. |
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Kiddie68 | 24 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Great day out with Reveille/Corner link-up. Felt quite stiff for HVS requiring a solid team, the down-climb is not to be sniffed at! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great day out with Reveille/Corner link-up. Felt quite stiff for HVS requiring a solid team, the down-climb is not to be sniffed at! |
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lieraza | 23 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: There was already tat and a crab on the peg on P2 that immediately precedes the downclimb, but the tat looked a bit faded and old, may well be fine but we added a fresh bit just to be sure. | ||
Show beta
βeta: There was already tat and a crab on the peg on P2 that immediately precedes the downclimb, but the tat looked a bit faded and old, may well be fine but we added a fresh bit just to be sure. |
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Euan Todd | 16 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Plenty of medium gear required to belay at the Aerodrome, unusually for Avon there's no in-situ gear or trees. | ||
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βeta: Plenty of medium gear required to belay at the Aerodrome, unusually for Avon there's no in-situ gear or trees. |
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fammer | 20 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Started to go up from the tree at the gallery, seemed prone to falling down so backed off. Went left instead of up in the end, which I think is the right way. | ||
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βeta: Started to go up from the tree at the gallery, seemed prone to falling down so backed off. Went left instead of up in the end, which I think is the right way. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))