Did what i believe to be a superior line, more in line with the character of the route and good for those who didn't get their fill of down climbing fill after the second pitch or can't route find for toffee.
Firstly I presume I went too far on the first pitch, having not come across the peg belay (is it still there?) and ended up belaying awkwardly next to the insitu wire before the down climb. Annoyingly I seem to have left my screwgate in the wire (it was swag anyway). This left Nick with a convoluted way of doing a very short pitch. Then on the final pitch I was enticed off the (very bloody obviously right way) traverse by chalkmarks on the left. Downclimbed, did a crazy 'no hands' lunge (5b/c maybe?) to the left to enter the finishing corner of Lich Gates and climbed up that. Altogether making a satisfying w shape with the route. Nick wisely decided to follow along the normal route and downclimb for the gear.
sheelba - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/15 with Nick
nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/15
Slick - AltLd - 24/Jun/15 with Kevin Vans-Colina
I want to kiss the person who left the cord to back-rope the traverse.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/15 with neil morbey
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Jun/15
Hidden - Lead - 06/Dec/14
Climbing festival. Bailed due to extreme heat! Finished up something easy, also the first bit of pitch two seemed extremely serious to second? Potential slip would mean a serious 20+ meter fall. That or I missed all the gear with heat stroke
Kemics - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Mel
Melonfly - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Caleb
RichardN - 2nd O/S - May/14
Entertaining. Led last pitch.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Alex
A poor man's Pink Wall Direct. The climbing it shares is fun, the climbing it doesn't is crap.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Peter H
mike mo - 2014
Poor climbing except for a couple of moves on the last pitch, good positions inevitably spoilt by the road!
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/13
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Neil Morbey
steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Steve Gibbs
Combined with the corner. Urban mountaineering at its best! (Led pitch 2)
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Alex Blaza
Great climb. Got lost on P1,P2 was great fun, gunning up the bars and P3 was splendid, airy climbing.
squicky - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Ben
P2, quality climb, excellent fun! P3 was excellent, just too short
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Iggy
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Micheal Dobinson
Lead pitch 1 and 3
2nd pitch felt like a lead even through I was seconding!
Final pitch was fun
dobby 200 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Joe Doherty
this time iron spike pitch - good afternoon in the sun.
Stanners - AltLd rpt - 15/Feb/13 with Jack Bradbrook
Cool route, interestingly you actually cover very little distance despite lots of climbing. The final pitch can be a tad pumpy if you hang around for too long but isn't really that bad.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Rob Stanfield
Hidden - 2013
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Peter Rigby
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jul/12
Did a variant on the last pitch - traversed low & then climbed up. More technical, but less pumpy and more protected when you needed it. Chris p1, 3, Rory p2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Rory Galvin
Route not obvious on P1. Two crucial footholds unlocked the traverse on the last pitch.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Chris Sansum
led 1st & 3rd
alidixon - 15/Jul/12
Really varied climbing! No 5a moves though, HVS 4c, just very pumpy. Last day before bird ban comes back in!
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Al
Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/11
Incredible route! Lead 2nd pitch.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Caspian
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with J
Stanley - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Robster666
Led P1 and p3. What an exciting evening! Very exposed with unusual downclimbing which was worrying to second.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield
Hidden - 2010
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Pete H
mark89 - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09
I led the first 15m to belay on pegs in the corner. Justin led through the rest of the route. Finished in the dark, topping out through a headwall of gorse bushes!
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09 with justin
P1 - DL
P2/3 (As one pitch) - J
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09 with justin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/08
Tried to free the bit past the spikes seconding, but fell off again off the move to the crumbly break! Not easy for 5c at all. Got the move second go.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/08 with WG
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08
very nice route, bit of a high altitude adventure. P2 not to be taken lightly though. Thought it was harder than 4b and serious to second.
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Francis
Francis Lister - 2nd - 03/May/08 with george evans
Move quickly through the hand traverse!
maresia - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Mike Kann
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/07
Pitch 2 is as hard to second as to lead due to down climbing.
TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Dave Gale
Marti999 - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/07
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/07 with Joe
gimmer - 2007
RedFox - AltLd - 03/May/06 with James B
beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Andy Wylie
Marcus - 2006
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Alex Barrows
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005
Lev - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/04 with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/04
Digger - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/03 with James Latham
Paz - AltLd rpt - Jul/03 with CC
IceMonkey1982 - 2003
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/02
Stone Muppet - 2002
retreated from about 5m below the top - pumped and benighted.
Paz - AltLd dnf - Nov/01 with AR
Billg - 2000
Hidden - 2000
mikej - AltLd - 21/Oct/95 with Nick Salmon
I led odds, Mark led second pitch. Third pitch is tremendous.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/95 with Mark
Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/89
Pete Nugent - Lead β - 1988
bullybones - Lead - 1988
RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 10/May/87 with Pete Stokes
mark-abz - 2nd - 20/Oct/85 with Charlie G
lassoed top spike with a sling and pulled. led traverse off aerodrome - 2nd peg fun to clip
JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Jul/85 with Mark Hopkins
rob.grafton - Lead - 1985 with sarah matson
Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 29/Nov/83 with Walter Phipps
TonyF - Lead - 01/May/83 with Paul Harrison
andy gittins - 1983
John Marsland - Lead - Sep/82 with Nick Ward
Lead pitchs 1 and 3.
stp - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/82
Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/81 with Richard Dickenson
Steve Bell - 1981
peterbeaumont - 1980
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/79
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1979 with Nick Stoughton, Martin Roberts
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/78
Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - Aug/77 with Richard Hackett
Hidden - AltLd - 1966