UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

145m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning adventure up the wall. Start below and to the left of The Razor's Edge terrace, which is identifiable by the large rusty chain on its right-hand side, below and slightly right of the striking crack/groove of Hamadryad.
1) 6b, 30m. Start at the foot of a blocky groove. Ascend this until it is possible to step right from a ledge and gain the start of a hanging groove. Enjoyable climbing up the groove leads to a step left at its top to the base of a blunt rib. Step onto the rib avoiding the loose blocks on the right, and continue up the rib to a bolt belay below a small pinnacle.
2) 6c, 30m. Climb up the pinnacle, where a steep step up and a pull gain the large slab. Trend up leftwards across the slab - at 3/4 height the climbing becomes testing. Continue up the steepening slab to gain the left arete, before stepping back right to gain the sloping belay ledge above.
3) 6c, 20m. Traverse airily right to the large rib. Continue upwards to a wide groove. Head up until it is possible to move out towards the continuation of the rib. Insecure climbing leads up the blunt rib to a belay at a small ledge.
4) 6a+, 15m. A hard steep start on blocky holds soon eases. Keep a look out for the two hidden bolts on the right. A sling on a flake may be useful if the exposure gets to you, but easy climbing soon leads to a belay next to a large pinnacle.
5) 6c, 15m. Traverse leftwards from the pinnacle until a step up gains the easy-angled slab. Continue upwards to the base of a slabby groove. A thought-provoking series of moves will hopefully gain the top of the groove. Continue up the easy-angled slab to a belay at the base of a groove.
6) 6b, 18m. A steep start soon leads to a short finger-crack in the corner. A confident approach will gain a ramp-line leading up leftwards to a ledge below the final short headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
145m, 6 pitches. THE THIRD LONGEST SPORT ROUTE IN THE UK - 145m F6b,6c,6c,6a+,6c,6b Approach from the Twll Mawr access tunnel. From the boulders at the end of the level carefully head diagonally down the scree slope past some larger blocks sticking out of the scree. The route starts below and to the left of ‘The Razors Edge’ terrace which is identifiable by the large rusty chain on its right hand side. Pitch 1 6b 30m Start at the foot of a blocky groove, ascend the wide groove until it is possible to step rightwards from a ledge and gain the start of a hanging narrow groove; some cool moves lead to the top of the groove, step left to gain the start of a blunt rib. A delicate step onto the rib avoiding the loose blocks on the right, continue pleasantly up the balancey stepped rib to a bolt belay below a small pinnacle. 14 bolts. Pitch 2 6c 35m Climb to the top of the pinnacle from where a steep step up and pull gains the start of the large slab. Continue up trending leftwards across the slab, at about ¾ height the climbing becomes more delicate and insecure. Continue up the steepening slab until the left arête can be gained before stepping back right by the top bolt to gain the sloping belay ledge above. 13 bolts. Pitch 3 6c 25m Traverse airily rightwards to gain the base of the large rib, continue upwards with some insecure moves to a wide groove. Climb up until it is possible to make a couple of wild and precarious moves out towards the continuation of the rib. Teasingly insecure climbing leads up the blunt rib to the belay at a small ledge at the base of a steeper wall, an excellent pitch. 9 bolts. Pitch 4 6a+ 20m Exit the belay ledge with some steep pulls on blocky holds, hard to start but soon easing. Keep a look out for the last two hidden bolts on the right, a sling on a flake may be useful if the exposure’s getting to you, but easy climbing soon leads to a belay next to a large pinnacle. 6 bolts. Pitch 5 6c 15m Traverse leftwards from the pinnacle until a step up gains the easy angled slab, continue upwards to the base of a slabby groove. A thought provoking series of moves will hopefully gain the top of the groove, continue up the easy angled slab to a belay at the base of a groove. 6 bolts. Pitch 6 6b 20m A steep start soon leads to a short finger jamming crack in the corner, a confident approach will gain a ramp-line leading up leftwards to a ledge below the final short headwall. Don’t rush the final moves. Bolt belay above the sloping ledge. 6 bolts. Walk off.
Note: Each belay is equipped with stainless rings so that an abseil retreat is possible at the end of each pitch if the weather gets bad or if a retreat is required for any other reason.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 11) 25/Apr/2014.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+ , Slate Sport , The Longest Sport Routes in the UK , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Slate Mastery , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Tolkien route names , Middle Earth Climbs , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thin Boyz 3 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Microwave sized chunk of rock came away from start of p5 crux. Neighbouring chunks are also on the way out. Doesn’t change the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Microwave sized chunk of rock came away from start of p5 crux. Neighbouring chunks are also on the way out. Doesn’t change the grade.
Katsmiff 18 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We made the rookie error of leaving bags at the bottom so took ages have to go get them again. Recommend you gear up at the car with a small backpack for trainers, water, guide book, cereal bars, any extra clothes. Saves a lot of time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We made the rookie error of leaving bags at the bottom so took ages have to go get them again. Recommend you gear up at the car with a small backpack for trainers, water, guide book, cereal bars, any extra clothes. Saves a lot of time.
AdamJH 2 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Large, potentially loose block on pitch 5, it's marked with a cross, unless the cross gets washed off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large, potentially loose block on pitch 5, it's marked with a cross, unless the cross gets washed off.

Logged Ascents

257 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 334 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
G'Day Arete

Grade: 6c ***
(Australia)

Loading Notifications...