Rockfax Description
A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot below a tree on a ledge at 3m.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground above the tree and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance.
2) 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, P Morgan, C Woodhead (1 pt aid) May/1967

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

tobydunford 03/Jun AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 08/Feb Lead O/S
Nick Russell 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Bold. Definitely worth E3, maybe low in the grade.

Alex Winter 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the airy second pitch, which I made a bit of a meal of. Had loads of gear but wasn't convinced by much of it. First pitch was pleasant to second, but probably a bit bold on lead. Full on veg top out.

with Nick
Ricky Rocks 25/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
richiebongo 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Slightly harrowing with both the state of the fixed gear and the soft crumbly nature of a lot of the rock. Lovley day for a climb though.

with Nick Smith
jcw ??/2013 -
Ed Babs 01/Apr/11 AltLd O/S


with Marti
Marti999 01/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
frank ramsay 04/Oct/10 Lead

Def E3. The only thing preventing a ground fall from the crux on pitch 1 is one old peg under the roof. Possibly 5c too.

AJM 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. A bit of a moment when I kicked one of my wires out! Felt spacey. Last man topped out just as rain arrived.

with Eric Sinclair, Ray Harris
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
John Southworth 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Alex Jakubowski
just one more 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with tim b
IceMonkey1982 04/Jul/09 2nd
simon kimber 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hanski 12/Jun/09 2nd
billb ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 29/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Led the easier top pitch

with douglas
Hidden 29/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Paz 29/Nov/06 AltLd rpt

Lead P2.

with TI
Hidden 29/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Paz 30/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
with TS
Marcus ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Paz 15/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (E1 5b? but nicer)

with AS
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
KRB 07/Apr/02 Lead β

An enjoyable route on a good line.

with Chris & Martin
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
DavidBarraclough ??/1999 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 08/May/95 AltLd
with tombawimba
chris sm 14/Mar/95 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
Roget 02/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Okecroak 15/Nov/93 2nd
with I Butler
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
frank ramsay ?/Nov/88 Solo

Solo. Seemed OK. Then 22 years later I lead it and was very worried.

Pete Nugent 19/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

led p1. E2 5b,5b in Steve Monks (1980/81?)guide

with Andrew Tobin
adriandesouza ?/May/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 03/Jan/87 2nd
DDDD ??/1987 -
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
JamieAyres ??/1985 2nd dog
with Graham Aveyard
Hidden ?/Sep/84 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 18/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
steve L 08/Jan/78 AltLd
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, EyebrowTom, andy dunn, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set