Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
1) 6b, 22m. Ascend the wall leftwards then right to the bulge. Overcome the bulge at some undercuts and take the wall above - hard - to join the finish of El Coronel's first pitch.2) 6b, 20m. The wall, overhang and line of flakes to a finish via a rib on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bold and powerful climbing though rather artificial on pitch 2.
1. 21m 6b Climb the wall between Seventh Grade and El Coronel, leftward at first and then back rightwards to below the bulge. Pull over past the obvious undercuts to an in-situ wire and make hard moves up the wrinkled wall to reach the finishing moves of El Coronel’s first pitch. Belay as for Seventh Grade.
2. 23m 6b The wall and thin flakes right of the groove of Seventh Grade moving right to the rib and, eventually, easier ground
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Ash Head)