Rockfax Description
A fabulous single-pitch, fully loaded with a great deal of excellent and varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove at the base of the face.
Follow the blank corner/groove to ledges before heading right along a break to the base of a scoop. A few difficult moves up the right-hand side of the scoop, peg, gain the base of a right-leaning groove which leads to a ledge and easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start in a corner groove a few meters right of the arete of New Horizons II. Climb to a sloping ledge and traverse the break into a shallow scoop and good rest. Tackle the head wall on large pockets past a fairly retro bolt (can be backed up with bomber thread runner 1 meter directly below). Follow the obvious right leaning thin crack system to the greenery on a ledge. Easier but bolder climbing follows to the top.

A C Willmott, M J Spring (1 pt aid) (G Mason, I Adams, (aid) 1963) 1971

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Bristol 1st E1s.

Ezra_Byrne 03/Oct Lead O/S
thom_jenkinson 01/Oct 2nd O/S

Wicked route - not the soft touch I had been led to believe. Quite reachy in places!

Dino Dave 01/Oct Lead O/S
Gibbo 17/Sep 2nd
with Ed Wright
London Luke ?/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jul Lead
steve_gibbs 03/Jul Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
emdawes 02/Jul Lead β
derico 17/Jun Lead O/S

Great route everyone should get on it!

with Tom
TomJ 17/Jun 2nd
with derico
jammy4536 14/Jun Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 14/Jun 2nd rpt
with Jamie MacLeod
LJKing 14/Jun 2nd O/S
with Paul Clarkson
Chubbard 06/Jun Lead O/S
with Daryl
Hidden 31/May Lead O/S
kenneM 30/May Lead
with Chris
Hidden 30/May Lead
Katsmiff 10/May Lead O/S

My 2nd E1 lead. Varied pleasant climbing. Trickier section on pockets nearer the top. Extending your quick draws prevents rope drag.

Martin Bagshaw 10/May 2nd O/S
Richardlake 10/May 2nd O/S
will_lake 10/May Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 07/May 2nd
richardashe 07/May Lead O/S
sheelba 30/Apr Lead

Bit of an epic involving top-roping an E4 and seconding myself but did it in the end

with Emma
andy dunn 22/Apr 2nd
with Big Ben, J
hutchay 16/Apr Lead O/S
with Georgia
Anna duckett ?/Apr 2nd
with Remus
james1978 15/Mar Lead O/S
with Justin
Jus 15/Mar 2nd
Legs 10/Mar Lead O/S

Really nice climb to get back into trad for 2015. Varied climbing, not much polish and enough/ or lack of gear to make it interesting. Nice long climb.

shoulders 07/Mar 2nd
Hidden 08/Feb Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jan Lead O/S
danmullett 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil
Neil 27/Sep/14 2nd
Duncan Campbell 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good. Moves past the bolt felt pretty tricky. A great pitch. Bubbles didn't want to do another but I made him belay me on this, sorry Bubba... was worth it though.

with Bubbles
Hidden 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Easier than I remembered. Solid E1 5b, only noticed the crux when I was already past it. Took up two guys their first ever trad climb.

alastairbegley 05/Jun/14 2nd rpt
twem 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
LucasHarazin 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 26/May/14 Lead rpt

Led after Matthew had a touch of the fannies. Really muggy weather, and lots of ticks about at the bottom of the crag.

with A. Monks, M. Gibbings
Martin Haworth 14/Mar/14 Lead β
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 14/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Brannock 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great route, nice long pitch, never to hard or to easy, few good rests, gear just about all there, quality line. Hadn't felt grope all day, riding think I'd be able to get up this a few times along the way but just about managed to get up it.

Alex Winter 04/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Great route.

with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Well good

with Alex W
Ollie B 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with O.Lancett
ollie_e 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
chrisscutt 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with oly
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
BenNorman 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S
gripped01 28/Aug/13 Lead
with Colin Scott
Joughton 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 18/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Will Attridge
zcsharp 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
jonbwoy ?/Jun/13 -
jonbwoy ?/Jun/13 -
masa-alpin 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Went for a wrong way at the crux, and ended up climbing down for 2 metres at the tough ground. The right way was found to be still very reachy for me a (very) shortie, 5c. Good and full-on route! Would be 3-stars if there was no concrete slab.

with PP
alastairbegley 16/May/13 2nd rpt
with Nick Eaton
Dean177 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 06/May/13 Lead O/S
tobydunford 02/May/13 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 01/May/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Anthony Dixon 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Edd
alastairbegley 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Neil Morbey 06/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Alastair
jonbwoy ??/2013 -
rob.grafton ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 2nd O/S
HarryB 05/Dec/12 2nd rpt
with Will B
Ragingpossum 05/Dec/12 Lead O/S

First E1, really varied climbing with a delicate hand traverse, relatively steep crux and then a shallow corner and scramble to ramp. Great climb.

Monk 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, varied and at a fairly consistent grade throughout. Good gear too. We did just one route today, and I'm very glad we did this one.

with Mikey
pheotleyr 20/Oct/12 2nd β
with Owen
Owen W-G 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
AlexD 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
ruaidh 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent value for money, nearly gave this three stars. One wobble coming out of the scoop and then the big hold for the left hand. Gear: a few small to midsized cams for the breaks, lots of nuts incl. one brass offset, two threads, three 4' extenders.

with Ben
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
s.c.white 30/Aug/12 -
with Dave Simpson
riddle 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S

great route with lots of interesting climbing, i was a bit surprised to find a block of concrete up there!

with Andy Turner
Kevster 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
cymjt ?/Aug/12 -
markfromstoke 26/Jul/12 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
daverichris 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
SGD 09/Jul/12 Lead

Harder than M2, great route

with phil wilkinson, Jonny WMC
daverichris 09/Jul/12 TR O/S
cem 19/Jun/12 2nd
thomasadixon 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt

and a few other times. Always a good route.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Really enjoyed doing this.

with Tom
drcorbasisgod ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
clams ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with PR
kelliroberts3 28/May/12 Lead
philhilo 12/May/12 2nd O/S


with misha
Misha 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Phil
katherinesydney 21/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Benevolent weather gods let us sneak this one in under blue skies before the heavens opened. Liked the way the rock changes character as you go up. Nice fossils too!

Kemics 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Snuck in between rain storms, utterly soaked riding home but the climbing was good. Maybe just really suited my style but felt soft in 5b.

Mr Powly 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
aipattison 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with chris Lyness
georgeevans88 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
jon_ridley 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S


with Tom Glendinning, Geoff Pyatt
guhj 23/Mar/12 2nd O/S

First time seconding E1 5b.

jiggerypokery 03/Mar/12 Lead β
dprctr 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Varied climbing with good gear.

Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead β
ollie_e 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant, great way to finish the day. High in the grade I think, but the protections all there. Great route.

with Frosty
Jack_F 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Wicked route really enoyable

with Cameron
Nick Russell 22/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Martin
HarryB 09/Dec/11 2nd dog
with Al
Toby Dunn 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Justin Timms
AlexRenshaw 13/Nov/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Stanners 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Didn't think it was particularly soft for E1 5B. Good fun, slightly nervous on the traverse though. First E1 onsight in a good few months. Perfect conditions today considering its November.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Nice route, not sustained and well protected. Crux is quite difficult however.

JamesRich 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Really nice route and the gear seemed quite good so probably quite a good first E1.

thomb 08/Oct/11 -
with Gareth
squicky 01/Oct/11 Lead dog

Too tired so had to rest. Otherwise a nice route.

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 01/Oct/11 2nd
with squicky
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead β
Hidden 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S

nice warm up although all the holds slope about 50 degrees the wrong way. :) *welcome to avon*

LisaA 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
AlistairB 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Stanley 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First non-slab E grade... so happy :)

Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 19/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First E1 lead!! Had previously seconded M2 but no knowledge of the route above the corner (which was visible from the ground anyway).

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 19/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with dave
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
Clay C 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Harry K
explodingsprouts 09/Jun/11 2nd β
with Pippa
Pippa 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with James
explodingsprouts 01/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Still don't like the traverse - quality route.

with Tim
Harry Kingston ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Bit hungover still good fun.

tommytuffa 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Never hard, great climbing, good protection on headwall

with Rich H
stvredmond 21/May/11 Lead

Loved it, well protected and felt pretty straight forward with excellent climbing. would be a good first E1 i reckon

Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 20/May/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
davesimpson 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable route. First E1 lead in over a year. The climbing was fun and safe, lots of good gear and run out enough to give it the E grade.

with Dean Russel
lukehodson 08/May/11 Lead rpt
Fran S8 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Justin T 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Not sure about the hard comments? Felt fair at E1. Really nice climbing!

with Cherry
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Should have an 'F' grade, for 'F'ing hard'!

with Gary Lewin
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 17/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Fell off twice after doing the tricky moves through the "pocketed scoop" with Nicolas in Nov/07, finally came back to get it clean.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Really hard!

with Tom
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Dandan82 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rafael
Hidden 13/Aug/10 TR
explodingsprouts 12/Aug/10 Lead β

Not keen on the traverse, but a good climb.

with Leandro, Ev
andy dunn 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S

really nice route

with Darren, J
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead rpt
simonf 18/May/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
Dale ?/May/10 Lead O/S

brill route really enjoyed this 1 theres alot of climbing involved. Thought it was very hard for the grade did limbo on suspension bridge b4 this thought that was loads easier.

with johny
dan gibson 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with sam read
Clay C 13/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Eleri
Hidden 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 09/Apr/10 2nd
with GF
Ed Babs 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
jelaby 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/10 2nd
Phil PBC ??/2010 -

seconding gav day

alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Aaron Lines ??/2010 Lead O/S
with frank
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Greg Pittam 08/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Sam Howel
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Lev 05/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead
maffujones 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jamie T
Jessie Rushbrooke 13/Aug/09 2nd
with GF
billb ?/Aug/09 Lead
just one more 28/Jul/09 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/09 2nd
scorpia97 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Caspian
lukewilliams 01/May/09 Lead β
jh5638 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alyssa Jacobs
deklan 24/Mar/09 Lead
with jamie
Protheroe 19/Mar/09 Lead dog
with Dave Radley
Hidden 26/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead β
lukehodson 12/Nov/08 Lead O/S

first E1 woop!

with Howard, Hazel
Al Franks 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alan Sage
Alasdair88 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alan Sage
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Matt Pearcey
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Paz 18/May/08 2nd rpt
with AM2
Greg Pittam 08/May/08 2nd β

Beautiful Climb

with Sam Howel
Hidden 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S
haydng 12/Apr/08 Lead rpt
with Rachel
CarolineH 02/Feb/08 2nd
with Joe
Hidden 23/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Spacetourist ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
feilx 23/Dec/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 24/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Adam
Circus 24/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Cool. Got kinda scared on the damp starting groove.

with Loz
Hidden 17/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 ?/Sep/07 2nd dog
with James Burrows
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead dog
just one more 01/Aug/07 Lead
with Max B
Hidden 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead
Bristoldave 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Neil Ferguson
maresia 03/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheichl
bpmclimb 14/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Clare
Paz 01/Feb/07 2nd rpt

Started up Motorway Madness.

with AS
Hidden 12/Dec/06 Lead rpt
waltersp ?/Dec/06 2nd O/S
with Nick
cornishben 09/May/06 Lead O/S

after failing on hocus pocus..

with Chris Sims
chris sm 09/May/06 2nd β
Bux ?/May/06 Lead O/S

Lovely route, good holds, nice position.

with Rupert Bassadone
tom.e 25/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Charlie Everett
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead

Awesome route with a tough crux.

Bern ??/2006 -
Jo McCready ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead
with Bill Naylor
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
RedFox ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Tom K
Hidden ??/2006 Lead rpt
al99 16/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Joe Spoor
Fat Tim 05/Oct/05 Lead rpt
kyt341k ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S

Lovely climbing, finishing on the ramp in the dark.

with Tim Rolfe
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
joe_alexander 09/Mar/05 2nd
with Nick Gillette
_m.cox_ ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Alex Barrows
furry ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 07/Aug/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead rpt
Paz ?/May/04 2nd rpt
with TS
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Boxy 22/Feb/04 Lead rpt
with Mick
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Lev 14/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Timmy
Paz ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with SN
mikej 03/Aug/02 2nd
with Nick Salmon
DavidR 03/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Jemma Wadham
pezzerrr ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
migs493 01/Jul/01 2nd β
KRB 20/May/01 Lead O/S
gimmer ??/2001 -
Jim Brooke ??/2001 2nd rpt
with Rich
Hidden ?/Aug/00 -
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
Hidden 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
kevp 11/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Tim Legge
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Gudge ??/2000 Lead O/S
with BUMC
Hidden ??/2000 -
John Southworth 17/Jan/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Slater
guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??/1999 Lead rpt
serby ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 03/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
AndySL ??/1997 Lead rpt
with Mark
phardman 15/Oct/95 Lead
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
chris sm 16/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Martin Sime
GAtkins 22/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Neil
Roget 02/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
GAtkins 01/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Linus
steve taylor ??/1993 -
Hidden 12/Dec/92 Lead O/S
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/89 Lead
Nigel Coe 21/May/89 -
with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden 21/May/89 -
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
frank ramsay ??/1988 Solo
Nigel Coe 03/Jan/87 2nd
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
JamieAyres 09/Aug/85 2nd O/S

It was called 'Catholics' back then - a mistake in the Steve Monks 1981 guide I guess.

with Gareth Williams
Ena ?/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??/1983 -
charlesmfrench 24/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
Nigel Bond 20/Jul/74 AltLd
with Alan, Pete Bott
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, brew_guru, Hawkgirl, Hidden, Hidden, Richardlake, George Frisby, BicycleBradley, Hidden, Kemics, Hidden, Katherine Ross, ben.richards, matt_claydon, Hidden, poey50, crimponite123, Hidden, Tamlyn
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 73
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set