M1** E1 5b
[M1, Unknown Butress, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]35m.

Rockfax Description
A fabulous single-pitch, fully loaded with a great deal of excellent and varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove at the base of the face.
Follow the blank corner/groove to ledges before heading right along a break to the base of a scoop. A few difficult moves up the right-hand side of the scoop, peg, gain the base of a right-leaning groove which leads to a ledge and easier ground. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Start in a corner groove a few meters right of the arete of New Horizons II. Climb to a sloping ledge and traverse the break into a shallow scoop and good rest. Tackle the head wall on large pockets past a fairly retro bolt (can be backed up with bomber thread runner 1 meter directly below). Follow the obvious right leaning thin crack system to the greenery on a ledge. Easier but bolder climbing follows to the top.

A C Willmott, M J Spring (1 pt aid) (G Mason, I Adams, (aid) 1963) 1971

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Bristol 1st E1s.

Photo: M1, Unknown Butress, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 312 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Wicked route - not the soft touch I had been led to believe. Quite reachy in places!
thom_jenkinson - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/15 with Dave Rex

Dino Dave - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/15 with Thom Jenkinson

Gibbo - 2nd - 17/Sep/15 with Ed Wright

London Luke - Lead O/S - Sep/15 with Tim O'hannaran

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/15

steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/15 with Pauline Picchio

emdawes - Lead β - 02/Jul/15 with mike dawes

Great route everyone should get on it!
derico - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Tom

TomJ - 2nd - 17/Jun/15 with derico

jammy4536 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15 with steve_gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/15 with Jamie MacLeod

LJKing - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Paul Clarkson

Chubbard - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Daryl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/15

kenneM - Lead - 30/May/15 with Chris

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/15

My 2nd E1 lead. Varied pleasant climbing. Trickier section on pockets nearer the top. Extending your quick draws prevents rope drag.
Katsmiff - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Martin Bagshaw

Martin Bagshaw - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15 with Catherine Smith

Richardlake - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15 with William Lake

will_lake - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Richard Lake

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - 07/May/15

richardashe - Lead O/S - 07/May/15 with graham westbrook

Bit of an epic involving top-roping an E4 and seconding myself but did it in the end
sheelba - Lead - 30/Apr/15 with Emma

andy dunn - 2nd - 22/Apr/15 with Big Ben, J

hutchay - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/15 with Georgia

Anna duckett - 2nd - Apr/15 with Remus

james1978 - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Justin

Really nice climb to get back into trad for 2015. Varied climbing, not much polish and enough/ or lack of gear to make it interesting. Nice long climb.
Legs - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/15

shoulders - 2nd - 07/Mar/15 with rich smith

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/15

danmullett - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/14

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Neil

Neil - 2nd - 27/Sep/14

Good. Moves past the bolt felt pretty tricky. A great pitch. Bubbles didn't want to do another but I made him belay me on this, sorry Bubba... was worth it though.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Bubbles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14

Easier than I remembered. Solid E1 5b, only noticed the crux when I was already past it. Took up two guys their first ever trad climb.
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/14

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/14 with Andrew Twemlow

twem - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Alastair

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

Led after Matthew had a touch of the fannies. Really muggy weather, and lots of ticks about at the bottom of the crag.
Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 26/May/14 with A. Monks, M. Gibbings

Martin Haworth - Lead β - 14/Mar/14 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

Great route, nice long pitch, never to hard or to easy, few good rests, gear just about all there, quality line. Hadn't felt grope all day, riding think I'd be able to get up this a few times along the way but just about managed to get up it.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

Great route.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/14 with Ben Darby

Well good
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/14 with Alex W

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with O.Lancett

ollie_e - Lead rpt - 24/Nov/13 with chris scutt

chrisscutt - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/13 with oly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/13

BenNorman - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/13

gripped01 - Lead - 28/Aug/13 with Colin Scott

Joughton - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Will Attridge

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs

jonbwoy - Jun/13

jonbwoy - Jun/13

Went for a wrong way at the crux, and ended up climbing down for 2 metres at the tough ground. The right way was found to be still very reachy for me a (very) shortie, 5c. Good and full-on route! Would be 3-stars if there was no concrete slab.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with PP

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 16/May/13 with Nick Eaton

Dean177 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Dean Merchant

tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 02/May/13 with Harry Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/13

Anthony Dixon - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Edd

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/13 with Neil Morbey

Neil Morbey - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/13 with Alastair

jonbwoy - 2013

rob.grafton - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2013

HarryB - 2nd rpt - 05/Dec/12 with Will B

First E1, really varied climbing with a delicate hand traverse, relatively steep crux and then a shallow corner and scramble to ramp. Great climb.
Ragingpossum - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/12 with Harry Bloxham

Really nice climbing, varied and at a fairly consistent grade throughout. Good gear too. We did just one route today, and I'm very glad we did this one.
Monk - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Mikey

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 20/Oct/12 with Owen

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Austrian Peter

Luke Dawson - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12

AlexD - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Ed

Excellent value for money, nearly gave this three stars. One wobble coming out of the scoop and then the big hold for the left hand. Gear: a few small to midsized cams for the breaks, lots of nuts incl. one brass offset, two threads, three 4' extenders.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/12

s.c.white - 30/Aug/12 with Dave Simpson

riddle - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Adam Ryan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

great route with lots of interesting climbing, i was a bit surprised to find a block of concrete up there!
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Andy Turner

Kevster - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Andy Morris

cymjt - Aug/12

markfromstoke - 2nd - 26/Jul/12 with Ian

ian d f - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Mark

daverichris - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12

Harder than M2, great route
SGD - Lead - 09/Jul/12 with phil wilkinson, Jonny WMC

daverichris - TR O/S - 09/Jul/12

cem - 2nd - 19/Jun/12 with Chris Parson

and a few other times. Always a good route.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Becca

Really enjoyed doing this.
BeccaSnowden - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Tom

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with Charles Moreton

clams - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with PR

kelliroberts3 - Lead - 28/May/12 with Peter Rigby

philhilo - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with misha

Misha - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Phil

Benevolent weather gods let us sneak this one in under blue skies before the heavens opened. Liked the way the rock changes character as you go up. Nice fossils too!
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with caleb kemics

Snuck in between rain storms, utterly soaked riding home but the climbing was good. Maybe just really suited my style but felt soft in 5b.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Katherine

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/12 with Tom Everett

aipattison - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with George Evans

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with chris Lyness

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Alex Pattison

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Tom Glendinning, Geoff Pyatt

First time seconding E1 5b.
guhj - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/12

jiggerypokery - Lead β - 03/Mar/12 with David Proctor

Varied climbing with good gear.
dprctr - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Jerome Gill

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Feb/12

Absolutely brilliant, great way to finish the day. High in the grade I think, but the protections all there. Great route.
ollie_e - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Frosty

Wicked route really enoyable
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Cameron

Nick Russell - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Martin

HarryB - 2nd dog - 09/Dec/11 with Al

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Justin Timms

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Didn't think it was particularly soft for E1 5B. Good fun, slightly nervous on the traverse though. First E1 onsight in a good few months. Perfect conditions today considering its November.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

Nice route, not sustained and well protected. Crux is quite difficult however.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield

Really nice route and the gear seemed quite good so probably quite a good first E1.
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

thomb - 08/Oct/11 with Gareth

Too tired so had to rest. Otherwise a nice route.
squicky - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11 with Aaron

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/11

nice warm up although all the holds slope about 50 degrees the wrong way. :) *welcome to avon*
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/11 with Remus Knowles

LisaA - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Alistair, Andy

AlistairB - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Andy Janezko, Lisa

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Alistair, Lisa

First non-slab E grade... so happy :)
Stanley - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

First E1 lead!! Had previously seconded M2 but no knowledge of the route above the corner (which was visible from the ground anyway).
Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Aaron

Aaron Lines - 2nd rpt - 19/Jul/11 with dave

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/11

Clay C - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Harry K

explodingsprouts - 2nd β - 09/Jun/11 with Pippa

Pippa - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with James

Still don't like the traverse - quality route.
explodingsprouts - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/11 with Tim

Bit hungover still good fun.
Harry Kingston - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Never hard, great climbing, good protection on headwall
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Rich H

Loved it, well protected and felt pretty straight forward with excellent climbing. would be a good first E1 i reckon
stvredmond - Lead - 21/May/11 with Sean mercer

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 20/May/11 with Tom

Really enjoyable route. First E1 lead in over a year. The climbing was fun and safe, lots of good gear and run out enough to give it the E grade.
davesimpson - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Dean Russel

lukehodson - Lead rpt - 08/May/11 with Charlotte

Fran S8 - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11

Not sure about the hard comments? Felt fair at E1. Really nice climbing!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Cherry

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Mar/11

Should have an 'F' grade, for 'F'ing hard'!
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Gary Lewin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Fell off twice after doing the tricky moves through the "pocketed scoop" with Nicolas in Nov/07, finally came back to get it clean.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 17/Sep/10 with Becca

Really hard!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/10

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with jason darke

Tomar - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Rafael

Hidden - TR - 13/Aug/10

Not keen on the traverse, but a good climb.
explodingsprouts - Lead β - 12/Aug/10 with Leandro, Ev

really nice route
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Darren, J

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/10

simonf - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Chris

brill route really enjoyed this 1 theres alot of climbing involved. Thought it was very hard for the grade did limbo on suspension bridge b4 this thought that was loads easier.
Dale - Lead O/S - May/10 with johny

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with sam read

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Eleri

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 09/Apr/10 with GF

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Mike Hawkins

jelaby - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with notgnarly

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

seconding gav day
Phil PBC - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 2010 with frank

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith

Greg Pittam - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/09 with Sam Howel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09

Lev - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/09 with Emma Ross

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/09

maffujones - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Jamie T

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 13/Aug/09 with GF

billb - Lead - Aug/09 with Rich Smith

just one more - Lead - 28/Jul/09 with tim b

First E1
James Marshall - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/09

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Caspian

lukewilliams - Lead β - 01/May/09

jh5638 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Alyssa Jacobs

deklan - Lead - 24/Mar/09 with jamie

Protheroe - Lead dog - 19/Mar/09 with Dave Radley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead β - 2009

first E1 woop!
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/08 with Howard, Hazel

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Alan Sage

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Alan Sage

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

jon bradley - Lead dog - 20/Jul/08 with Matt Pearcey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 18/May/08 with AM2

Beautiful Climb
Greg Pittam - 2nd β - 08/May/08 with Sam Howel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08

haydng - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/08 with Rachel

CarolineH - 2nd - 02/Feb/08 with Joe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/08

Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam

feilx - 2nd O/S - 23/Dec/07 with Mike Soldner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/07 with Adam

Cool. Got kinda scared on the damp starting groove.
Circus - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/07 with Loz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/07

Alasdair88 - 2nd dog - Sep/07 with James Burrows

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/07

just one more - Lead - 01/Aug/07 with Max B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/07

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/07 with Neil Ferguson

maresia - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Rob Scheichl

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/07 with Clare

Started up Motorway Madness.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 01/Feb/07 with AS

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Dec/06

waltersp - 2nd O/S - Dec/06 with Nick

after failing on hocus pocus..
cornishben - Lead O/S - 09/May/06 with Chris Sims

chris sm - 2nd β - 09/May/06 with Ben Sutton

Lovely route, good holds, nice position.
Bux - Lead O/S - May/06 with Rupert Bassadone

tom.e - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett

Awesome route with a tough crux.
beardy mike - Lead - 2006 with Andy Wylie

Bern - 2006

Jo McCready - 2006

beardy mike - Lead - 2006 with Bill Naylor

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

RedFox - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Tom K

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2006

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/05 with Joe Spoor

Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/05 with James Wright

Lovely climbing, finishing on the ramp in the dark.
kyt341k - 2nd O/S - Oct/05 with Tim Rolfe

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/05

joe_alexander - 2nd - 09/Mar/05 with Nick Gillette

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Mar/05 with Jo Stadden

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Alex Barrows

furry - Lead O/S - Sep/04 with Neil

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/04

Paz - 2nd rpt - May/04 with TS

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04

Boxy - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/04 with Mick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Urgles - Lead O/S - Nov/03 with Ady Short

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Lev - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/03 with Timmy

Paz - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with SN

mikej - 2nd - 03/Aug/02 with Nick Salmon

DavidR - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/02 with Jemma Wadham

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/01

KRB - Lead O/S - 20/May/01

gimmer - 2001

Jim Brooke - 2nd rpt - 2001 with Rich

Hidden - Aug/00

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00

kevp - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/00 with Tim Legge

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Gudge - Lead O/S - 2000 with BUMC

Hidden - 2000

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/99 with Dave Slater

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - 1999

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1999 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - Lead rpt - 1999

serby - Lead - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/98

Hidden - Lead - 1998

AndySL - Lead rpt - 1997 with Mark

phardman - Lead - 15/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

chris sm - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/94 with Martin Sime

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/94 with Neil

Roget - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/94 with jon

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/93 with Linus

steve taylor - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/92

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - Oct/89

Nigel Coe - 21/May/89 with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

frank ramsay - Solo - 1988

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 03/Jan/87 with Gordon Jenkin

bullybones - Lead - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily

It was called 'Catholics' back then - a mistake in the Steve Monks 1981 guide I guess.
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/85 with Gareth Williams

Ena - Lead O/S - Aug/83

Hidden - Solo rpt - 1983

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - 1981

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 20/Jul/74 with Alan, Pete Bott

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
danieleaston, brew_guru, Hawkgirl, Richardlake, George Frisby, BicycleBradley, Kemics, Katherine Ross, ben.richards, matt_claydon, poey50, crimponite123, Tamlyn

Total votes cast 204
hard E20 of 72
E20 of 72
easy E21 of 72
hard E110 of 72
E152 of 72
easy E19 of 72
hard HVS0 of 72
HVS0 of 72
easy HVS0 of 72
hard 5c0 of 65
5c1 of 65
easy 5c2 of 65
hard 5b5 of 65
5b48 of 65
easy 5b7 of 65
hard 5a2 of 65
5a0 of 65
easy 5a0 of 65
3 Stars23 of 67
2 Stars40 of 67
1 Star3 of 67
0 Stars1 of 67
Bag of .....0 of 67
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat