Rockfax Description
An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. Start at a blank section of wall 7m right of the long corner groove of M1.
Make some bouldery moves up the initial wall before moving left and climbing a corner/groove to a break and two pegs. Make bold moves rightwards up the wall to a ledge. From a short crack on the left, move up left to pockets that lead to a concrete block. Move right to a narrow groove and climb this and the wall above with difficulty past a pocket and bolt on the left to better finishing holds that lead to the ramp. © Rockfax

R Harrison, A Hall 07/Feb/1978

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

London Luke 11/Jul Lead dog
with David R
Luxulyan 18/Jun Lead G/U

After losing my way last time and having to escape up M1. Very good.

with Harry
ollie_e 15/Jun Lead dog

Waaaaaaay too hot! Sweaty blind move at the top with the pocket chucked me off (missed the obvious jug as usual) and I went a loooong way, resulting in a number 1 rock now being stuck about 2m from the top. Annoyed I didn't get this, no harder than E3, but its a tough one.

with Charlie
Chubbard 15/Jun 2nd dog

V v hot. Pretty hard too. Fell off the start first go. Then more dogging to fight with wires.

with Ollie
tobydunford 08/May 2nd β
with Harry Martin
felixizzy 18/Apr 2nd O/S
with misha
Misha 18/Apr Lead O/S

The gearless start was fine until I got onto the larger holds and pulled off half a handhold! Managed to hold on to what was left, otherwise would have been interesting as was a few metres off the deck. Bold section off the little ledge, moving up a fair bit to the right of a so-so peg (good nut below), some exciting 5c there (by the way, couldn't clip the second peg as the only feasible way of going up at 5c that I could see was ocpver on the right and you then end up well out of reach of the second peg). The section above on pockets was also tricky but had good gear. Seems I unwittingly finished up M1 (missing out the last hard section?), reason to go back one day! A quality route, a bit run out, good climbing, just what I needed early in the season!

with Felix
Hidden 24/Jan Lead O/S
danmullett 13/Dec/14 2nd β
Ollie B 29/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Seconded at some point previously

with B.Brewer
philhilo 23/Oct/14 TR

First bigger vertical route on the top rope solo. Bottom sequence exciting as rope stretch means you deck from anywhere in the first 3m or so. Jumped off mid route to test the system, all fine but lots of stretch.

Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
mike mo ??/2014 -
Joughton 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Another tough E3, brilliant climbing though, flowed really nicely. A little bit spicey low down but safe enough.

Alex Winter 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Good climbing, quite sustained. Ate too many blackberries whilst belaying.

with Nick
Nick Russell 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Sustained, interesting climbing, a brilliant route! The route finding is tricky and I was fortunate to have Alex advise me to go right at the top. I must have spent almost an hour on this, thanks for the patience, Alex...

BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Got as far as top crux on 20.10.12 but couldn't figure out the sequence (was too far left). This time I fell off the bold crux - pegs held but I had a painful collision with the ledge. Not going to be trying this one again...

with Tom
Quarryboy 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Was on the route for over 2 hours in the gross heat of the day (placed 18 runners in total). Despite not being pumped every limb hurt! Didn't think the climbing was actually that hard probably f6b+ overall. Personally I think the crux is getting off the ground although even once you are past this you still have to face 30 odd metres of hard to read relentless tech 5b climbing. Was totally wasted reaching the belay.

richiebongo 09/Jan/13 Lead RP

Did it again and got it all clean this time inc the tricky finish.

with Nick Smith
richiebongo 05/Jan/13 Lead RP

Got the crux this time, bold and hard, but finished up M1

with Nick Smith
Stanners 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

climbing porn

thomasadixon 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

On Becca's gear - hard moves (hard 5c if not 6a) to get to the bolt and a balancy an bold crux low down. Brilliant climb.

with Becca
Pete Rigby 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 22/Sep/12 2nd
mountain_jay 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Had always thought it looked awesome and scary! Can't believe i just jumped on it. Was pretty nervous. bottom went absolutely fine. Stepped back down from the crux, got good No.5 rock in and went back up a bit further right. Whole thing felt pretty serious. Super stoked!

with Richard Bennett
Hidden 29/Aug/12 2nd dog
mikeshewring 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

E4 6a I think.

Cailean Harker 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Spacetourist 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Hidden 15/Feb/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Feb/12 2nd
AlexRenshaw 13/Nov/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Toby Dunn 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Aaron Lines 19/Jul/11 Lead
with dave
Ed Babs 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd β
Aaron Lines 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Superb route. Feels a bit like a Gogarth route. Never too bold, just brilliant climbing

thomasadixon 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Bit too much time route finding! Still good though.

with Becca
Marti999 09/Sep/10 Lead β

took a mighty fall from the reachy low crux, started again this time with trust in those pegs!

with Lisa
Hidden 17/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 24/Jun/10 -
dan gibson 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with oscar
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 TR rpt
LC ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 20/Apr/10 2nd
with GF
ian caton 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Hard for the short low down. Maybe i missed something. Half an inch less reach and i'd have been gone. Not a trivial fall to consider either. Not 3 star so close to a dual carriageway.

with Abi
billb ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
just one more 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
feilx 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
richiebongo ??/2009 Lead dog

Slumped onto the peg at the blank wall. One to come back to do clean.

with Nick Smith
lukehodson 19/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Howard
Paz 03/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with TS
Bristoldave 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
CarolineH 07/Sep/08 2nd dog
with Dave
Lev 01/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/08 2nd dog
Paz 28/Aug/08 2nd dnf

Finished up M1.

with WG
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Paz 23/Nov/07 Lead β

The direct finish. You move right from the concrete block, then up to the bolt. I think this might merit 6a, if only to tell you what to expect, but maybe it's no harder than Ladder the regular way?

with HL
Paz 13/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Tried the "inferior" direct, but went up a bit too far left to the very top of M1.

with MH2
Marti999 ?/Sep/07 Lead dog
pezzerrr 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Bux 12/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 10/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Paz 29/Oct/05 2nd rpt
with RJ
joe_alexander 21/Mar/05 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
Paz 08/Mar/05 Lead β
with AS
Paz 31/Oct/04 Lead dnf

escaped up M1

with GC
_m.cox_ 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Adam Ellwood 16/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 04/Jun/04 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2004 2nd dog
cornishben ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead RP
cornishben ??/2003 2nd
with Mike Raine
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
KRB 28/Dec/01 Lead β
John Southworth 25/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/99 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
lowersharpnose 04/May/97 Lead
with tombawimba
AndySL ??/1997 2nd O/S
with Tim
rob.grafton 11/Jul/93 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 13/Apr/93 Lead β
Roget 29/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/88 Lead

I visited my brother in Bristol, after returning from the Alps and hooked up with a stray climber in the gorge to do these 2 routes. I think his name was Mark...very large...Dunne proportions. A butcher. Turns out he's a bit of a legend down that way. strong lad for his size!!

shark 15/May/87 Lead
DDDD ??/1987 -
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
Nigel Coe 06/Oct/85 2nd

In the rain,so a very tight rope.

JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 2nd dog
with Phil Windall
Hidden 22/Dec/84 2nd O/S
Mike Owen 21/Oct/84 -
with Pete Craig, Elaine Owen
steve L 24/Jun/84 Lead
with Graham Royle, Clive Curle
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
charlesmfrench 12/Nov/83 2nd O/S
with Dave Green
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 21/Apr/82 Lead O/S

Possibly my first ever E3. Didn't seem harder than E2s.

Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
barny ??/1981 Lead O/S

Maybe I shouldn't say but it was so long ago... Mike failed three feet off the ground, handed rope to me probably expected me to struggle, and I'd only expected to be a happy second. Cruised up the boulder problem, started getting nervous at the first dusty break and moves up/left leaving my only runner a long way behind. Peg protection and had to dyno for the next break (not very fit!) then moved right and took a whole load of time to convince myself the route really did go up that thin crack past the jammed wire. Took even longer to figure I had to go to one side of the crack, then move up/left to get the finish ledge edge and could reach back down to fill that lovely jug pocket with a friend. Brilliant. My first lead above E1 at Avon.

with Dr Mike
Hidden ?/Nov/80 Lead O/S
chris sm ??/0000 2nd dog
with Andy Gill
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