London Luke - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15 with David R
After losing my way last time and having to escape up M1. Very good.
Luxulyan - Lead G/U - 18/Jun/15 with Harry
Waaaaaaay too hot! Sweaty blind move at the top with the pocket chucked me off (missed the obvious jug as usual) and I went a loooong way, resulting in a number 1 rock now being stuck about 2m from the top. Annoyed I didn't get this, no harder than E3, but its a tough one.
ollie_e - Lead dog - 15/Jun/15 with Charlie
V v hot. Pretty hard too. Fell off the start first go. Then more dogging to fight with wires.
Chubbard - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/15 with Ollie
tobydunford - 2nd β - 08/May/15 with Harry Martin
felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with misha
The gearless start was fine until I got onto the larger holds and pulled off half a handhold! Managed to hold on to what was left, otherwise would have been interesting as was a few metres off the deck. Bold section off the little ledge, moving up a fair bit to the right of a so-so peg (good nut below), some exciting 5c there (by the way, couldn't clip the second peg as the only feasible way of going up at 5c that I could see was ocpver on the right and you then end up well out of reach of the second peg). The section above on pockets was also tricky but had good gear. Seems I unwittingly finished up M1 (missing out the last hard section?), reason to go back one day! A quality route, a bit run out, good climbing, just what I needed early in the season!
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Felix
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/15
danmullett - 2nd β - 13/Dec/14
Seconded at some point previously
Ollie B - Lead rpt - 29/Nov/14 with B.Brewer
First bigger vertical route on the top rope solo. Bottom sequence exciting as rope stretch means you deck from anywhere in the first 3m or so. Jumped off mid route to test the system, all fine but lots of stretch.
philhilo - TR - 23/Oct/14
Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Richard
mike mo - 2014
Another tough E3, brilliant climbing though, flowed really nicely. A little bit spicey low down but safe enough.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13
Good climbing, quite sustained. Ate too many blackberries whilst belaying.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Nick
Sustained, interesting climbing, a brilliant route! The route finding is tricky and I was fortunate to have Alex advise me to go right at the top. I must have spent almost an hour on this, thanks for the patience, Alex...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Alex Winter
Got as far as top crux on 20.10.12 but couldn't figure out the sequence (was too far left).
This time I fell off the bold crux - pegs held but I had a painful collision with the ledge. Not going to be trying this one again...
BeccaSnowden - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/13 with Tom
Was on the route for over 2 hours in the gross heat of the day (placed 18 runners in total). Despite not being pumped every limb hurt! Didn't think the climbing was actually that hard probably f6b+ overall. Personally I think the crux is getting off the ground although even once you are past this you still have to face 30 odd metres of hard to read relentless tech 5b climbing. Was totally wasted reaching the belay.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Rob Stanfield
Did it again and got it all clean this time inc the tricky finish.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 09/Jan/13 with Nick Smith
Got the crux this time, bold and hard, but finished up M1
richiebongo - Lead RP - 05/Jan/13 with Nick Smith
Stanners - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Kyle Williamson
On Becca's gear - hard moves (hard 5c if not 6a) to get to the bolt and a balancy an bold crux low down. Brilliant climb.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Becca
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Peter Rigby
Brilliant! Had always thought it looked awesome and scary! Can't believe i just jumped on it. Was pretty nervous. bottom went absolutely fine. Stepped back down from the crux, got good No.5 rock in and went back up a bit further right. Whole thing felt pretty serious. Super stoked!
mountain_jay - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/12 with Richard Bennett
E4 6a I think.
mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12
Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 08/May/12
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Ed Heslam
Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Feb/12
Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/12
AlexRenshaw - Lead - 13/Nov/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn
Aaron Lines - Lead - 19/Jul/11 with dave
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Iain Moodie
Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jun/11
Aaron Lines - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with frank ramsay
Superb route. Feels a bit like a Gogarth route. Never too bold, just brilliant climbing
Ged Desforges - 2011
Bit too much time route finding! Still good though.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Becca
took a mighty fall from the reachy low crux, started again this time with trust in those pegs!
Marti999 - Lead β - 09/Sep/10 with Lisa
Hidden - TR dog - 17/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/10
Hidden - TR dog - 13/Aug/10
Hidden - 24/Jun/10
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with oscar
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10
Hidden - TR rpt - Jun/10
LC - Lead O/S - May/10
Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 20/Apr/10 with GF
Hard for the short low down. Maybe i missed something. Half an inch less reach and i'd have been gone. Not a trivial fall to consider either. Not 3 star so close to a dual carriageway.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Abi
billb - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Rich Smith
just one more - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with Svenn G
feilx - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/09 with Heather
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09
Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/09
Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Mar/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09
Slumped onto the peg at the blank wall. One to come back to do clean.
richiebongo - Lead dog - 2009 with Nick Smith
lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/08 with Howard
Paz - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/08 with TS
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with CarolineH
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 07/Sep/08 with Dave
Lev - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/08 with Emma Ross
Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/08
Finished up M1.
Paz - 2nd dnf - 28/Aug/08 with WG
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08
The direct finish. You move right from the concrete block, then up to the bolt. I think this might merit 6a, if only to tell you what to expect, but maybe it's no harder than Ladder the regular way?
Paz - Lead β - 23/Nov/07 with HL
Tried the "inferior" direct, but went up a bit too far left to the very top of M1.
Paz - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/07 with MH2
Marti999 - Lead dog - Sep/07
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06
Bux - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/06 with Nick
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/06
Bern - 2006
Marcus - 2006
Marcus - 2006
Paz - 2nd rpt - 29/Oct/05 with RJ
joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/05 with Nick Gillette
Paz - Lead β - 08/Mar/05 with AS
escaped up M1
Paz - Lead dnf - 31/Oct/04 with GC
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04 with Adam Mulholland
Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/04 with Tim
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/04
tom.e - 2nd dog - 2004
cornishben - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Mike Raine
Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/03
cornishben - 2nd - 2003 with Mike Raine
Hidden - Lead - 2003
KRB - Lead β - 28/Dec/01
John Southworth - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Jason Parker
Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Harry
Hidden - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/99
guy xavier percival - 1999
Hidden - 1999
lowersharpnose - Lead - 04/May/97 with tombawimba
AndySL - 2nd O/S - 1997 with Tim
rob.grafton - Lead - 11/Jul/93 with Bruce
Hidden - Lead β - 13/Apr/93
Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/92 with jon
Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990
I visited my brother in Bristol, after returning from the Alps and hooked up with a stray climber in the gorge to do these 2 routes. I think his name was Mark...very large...Dunne proportions. A butcher. Turns out he's a bit of a legend down that way. strong lad for his size!!
Rich Kirby - Lead - Jul/88
shark - Lead - 15/May/87
DDDD - 1987
bullybones - Lead - 1987
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily
In the rain,so a very tight rope.
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 06/Oct/85 with Gordon Jenkin
JamieAyres - 2nd dog - Aug/85 with Phil Windall
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Dec/84
Mike Owen - 21/Oct/84 with Pete Craig, Elaine Owen
steve L - Lead - 24/Jun/84 with Graham Royle, Clive Curle
Hidden - Lead - 1984
charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/83 with Dave Green
andy gittins - 1983
Possibly my first ever E3. Didn't seem harder than E2s.
stp - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/82
Steve Bell - 1981
Hidden - Lead - 1981
Maybe I shouldn't say but it was so long ago... Mike failed three feet off the ground, handed rope to me probably expected me to struggle, and I'd only expected to be a happy second. Cruised up the boulder problem, started getting nervous at the first dusty break and moves up/left leaving my only runner a long way behind. Peg protection and had to dyno for the next break (not very fit!) then moved right and took a whole load of time to convince myself the route really did go up that thin crack past the jammed wire. Took even longer to figure I had to go to one side of the crack, then move up/left to get the finish ledge edge and could reach back down to fill that lovely jug pocket with a friend. Brilliant. My first lead above E1 at Avon.
barny - Lead O/S - 1981 with Dr Mike
Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/80
chris sm - 2nd dog - 0000 with Andy Gill