Ladder of Desire*** E3 5c

Rockfax Description
An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. Start at a blank section of wall 7m right of the long corner groove of M1.
Make some bouldery moves up the initial wall before moving left and climbing a corner/groove to a break and two pegs. Make bold moves rightwards up the wall to a ledge. From a short crack on the left, move up left to pockets that lead to a concrete block. Move right to a narrow groove and climb this and the wall above with difficulty past a pocket and bolt on the left to better finishing holds that lead to the ramp. © ROCKFAX

R Harrison, A Hall 07/Feb/1978

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

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This climb is in 121 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

London Luke - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15 with David R

After losing my way last time and having to escape up M1. Very good.
Luxulyan - Lead G/U - 18/Jun/15 with Harry

Waaaaaaay too hot! Sweaty blind move at the top with the pocket chucked me off (missed the obvious jug as usual) and I went a loooong way, resulting in a number 1 rock now being stuck about 2m from the top. Annoyed I didn't get this, no harder than E3, but its a tough one.
ollie_e - Lead dog - 15/Jun/15 with Charlie

V v hot. Pretty hard too. Fell off the start first go. Then more dogging to fight with wires.
Chubbard - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/15 with Ollie

tobydunford - 2nd β - 08/May/15 with Harry Martin

felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with misha

The gearless start was fine until I got onto the larger holds and pulled off half a handhold! Managed to hold on to what was left, otherwise would have been interesting as was a few metres off the deck. Bold section off the little ledge, moving up a fair bit to the right of a so-so peg (good nut below), some exciting 5c there (by the way, couldn't clip the second peg as the only feasible way of going up at 5c that I could see was ocpver on the right and you then end up well out of reach of the second peg). The section above on pockets was also tricky but had good gear. Seems I unwittingly finished up M1 (missing out the last hard section?), reason to go back one day! A quality route, a bit run out, good climbing, just what I needed early in the season!
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Felix

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/15

danmullett - 2nd β - 13/Dec/14

Seconded at some point previously
Ollie B - Lead rpt - 29/Nov/14 with B.Brewer

First bigger vertical route on the top rope solo. Bottom sequence exciting as rope stretch means you deck from anywhere in the first 3m or so. Jumped off mid route to test the system, all fine but lots of stretch.
philhilo - TR - 23/Oct/14

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Richard

mike mo - 2014

Another tough E3, brilliant climbing though, flowed really nicely. A little bit spicey low down but safe enough.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

Good climbing, quite sustained. Ate too many blackberries whilst belaying.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Nick

Sustained, interesting climbing, a brilliant route! The route finding is tricky and I was fortunate to have Alex advise me to go right at the top. I must have spent almost an hour on this, thanks for the patience, Alex...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Alex Winter

Got as far as top crux on 20.10.12 but couldn't figure out the sequence (was too far left). This time I fell off the bold crux - pegs held but I had a painful collision with the ledge. Not going to be trying this one again...
BeccaSnowden - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/13 with Tom

Was on the route for over 2 hours in the gross heat of the day (placed 18 runners in total). Despite not being pumped every limb hurt! Didn't think the climbing was actually that hard probably f6b+ overall. Personally I think the crux is getting off the ground although even once you are past this you still have to face 30 odd metres of hard to read relentless tech 5b climbing. Was totally wasted reaching the belay.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Rob Stanfield

Did it again and got it all clean this time inc the tricky finish.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 09/Jan/13 with Nick Smith

Got the crux this time, bold and hard, but finished up M1
richiebongo - Lead RP - 05/Jan/13 with Nick Smith

climbing porn
Stanners - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Kyle Williamson

On Becca's gear - hard moves (hard 5c if not 6a) to get to the bolt and a balancy an bold crux low down. Brilliant climb.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Becca

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Peter Rigby

Brilliant! Had always thought it looked awesome and scary! Can't believe i just jumped on it. Was pretty nervous. bottom went absolutely fine. Stepped back down from the crux, got good No.5 rock in and went back up a bit further right. Whole thing felt pretty serious. Super stoked!
mountain_jay - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/12 with Richard Bennett

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/12

E4 6a I think.
mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 08/May/12

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Ed Heslam

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/12

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 13/Nov/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Aaron Lines - Lead - 19/Jul/11 with dave

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jun/11

Aaron Lines - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with frank ramsay

Superb route. Feels a bit like a Gogarth route. Never too bold, just brilliant climbing
Ged Desforges - 2011

Bit too much time route finding! Still good though.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Becca

took a mighty fall from the reachy low crux, started again this time with trust in those pegs!
Marti999 - Lead β - 09/Sep/10 with Lisa

Hidden - TR dog - 17/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - 24/Jun/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with oscar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10

Hidden - TR rpt - Jun/10

LC - Lead O/S - May/10

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 20/Apr/10 with GF

Hard for the short low down. Maybe i missed something. Half an inch less reach and i'd have been gone. Not a trivial fall to consider either. Not 3 star so close to a dual carriageway.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Abi

billb - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Rich Smith

just one more - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with Svenn G

feilx - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/09 with Heather

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09

Slumped onto the peg at the blank wall. One to come back to do clean.
richiebongo - Lead dog - 2009 with Nick Smith

lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/08 with Howard

Paz - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/08 with TS

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 07/Sep/08 with Dave

Lev - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/08

Finished up M1.
Paz - 2nd dnf - 28/Aug/08 with WG

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08

The direct finish. You move right from the concrete block, then up to the bolt. I think this might merit 6a, if only to tell you what to expect, but maybe it's no harder than Ladder the regular way?
Paz - Lead β - 23/Nov/07 with HL

Tried the "inferior" direct, but went up a bit too far left to the very top of M1.
Paz - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/07 with MH2

Marti999 - Lead dog - Sep/07

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Bux - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/06 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/06

Bern - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Paz - 2nd rpt - 29/Oct/05 with RJ

joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/05 with Nick Gillette

Paz - Lead β - 08/Mar/05 with AS

escaped up M1
Paz - Lead dnf - 31/Oct/04 with GC

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04 with Adam Mulholland

Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/04 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/04

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2004

cornishben - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Mike Raine

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/03

cornishben - 2nd - 2003 with Mike Raine

Hidden - Lead - 2003

KRB - Lead β - 28/Dec/01

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Jason Parker

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Harry

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/99

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - 1999

lowersharpnose - Lead - 04/May/97 with tombawimba

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 1997 with Tim

rob.grafton - Lead - 11/Jul/93 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Apr/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/92 with jon

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990

I visited my brother in Bristol, after returning from the Alps and hooked up with a stray climber in the gorge to do these 2 routes. I think his name was Mark...very large...Dunne proportions. A butcher. Turns out he's a bit of a legend down that way. strong lad for his size!!
Rich Kirby - Lead - Jul/88

shark - Lead - 15/May/87

DDDD - 1987

bullybones - Lead - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily

In the rain,so a very tight rope.
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 06/Oct/85 with Gordon Jenkin

JamieAyres - 2nd dog - Aug/85 with Phil Windall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Dec/84

Mike Owen - 21/Oct/84 with Pete Craig, Elaine Owen

steve L - Lead - 24/Jun/84 with Graham Royle, Clive Curle

Hidden - Lead - 1984

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/83 with Dave Green

andy gittins - 1983

Possibly my first ever E3. Didn't seem harder than E2s.
stp - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Maybe I shouldn't say but it was so long ago... Mike failed three feet off the ground, handed rope to me probably expected me to struggle, and I'd only expected to be a happy second. Cruised up the boulder problem, started getting nervous at the first dusty break and moves up/left leaving my only runner a long way behind. Peg protection and had to dyno for the next break (not very fit!) then moved right and took a whole load of time to convince myself the route really did go up that thin crack past the jammed wire. Took even longer to figure I had to go to one side of the crack, then move up/left to get the finish ledge edge and could reach back down to fill that lovely jug pocket with a friend. Brilliant. My first lead above E1 at Avon.
barny - Lead O/S - 1981 with Dr Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/80

chris sm - 2nd dog - 0000 with Andy Gill

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 76
hard E40 of 28
E40 of 28
easy E41 of 28
hard E322 of 28
E35 of 28
easy E30 of 28
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E20 of 28
hard 6a0 of 26
6a0 of 26
easy 6a11 of 26
hard 5c9 of 26
5c6 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
hard 5b0 of 26
5b0 of 26
easy 5b0 of 26
3 Stars15 of 22
2 Stars4 of 22
1 Star3 of 22
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