Rockfax Description
A Sea Walls classic that sees plenty of action. The climbing is bold on the third pitch but is fairly straightforward. Start at a short wall just right of a thin crack, as for Morpheus.
1) 4a, 18m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner and follow this for 5m to a belay ledge and rock spike.
2) 16m. Move leftwards up a smooth slab to a broken corner-line, follow this to a good ledge and belay on its right side. The lower belay nuts are poor but the best placement is just above and not easily seen when standing on the belay ledge.
3) 17m. Climb the right-trending slabs above in a fine position, but with no protection, to a good crack where the wall steepens. A quick pull gains a belay ledge.
4) 4a, 10m. Climb the steep, well-protected corner-crack behind the belay to finish. © Rockfax
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , I want a Pasty! , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , The Avon Gorge Severe Challenge , Best of the Gorge , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Avon GORGEous
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Trevers | 1 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Second belay is unsafe! The rock spike moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second belay is unsafe! The rock spike moves. |
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MattyDredge | 20 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Rock spike at 2nd belay unstable! Caution! My blue Z4 placed above sling moved the rock and popped out with a little tug. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rock spike at 2nd belay unstable! Caution! My blue Z4 placed above sling moved the rock and popped out with a little tug. |
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alexdwaldron | 12 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Nice route - bolts at top of second pitch where tree used to be. Left a number 1 nut jammed in second pitch if anyone can get it out! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice route - bolts at top of second pitch where tree used to be. Left a number 1 nut jammed in second pitch if anyone can get it out! |
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Samedmo111 | 22 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Repeat as a 3. Ran pitch 1&2 together and took a mate for his first multi pitch experiance! Cam in pitch 4 previously mentioned is still in place but badly over crammed / twisted - could prob remove if it\'s still wanted but its nackerd! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Repeat as a 3. Ran pitch 1&2 together and took a mate for his first multi pitch experiance! Cam in pitch 4 previously mentioned is still in place but badly over crammed / twisted - could prob remove if it's still wanted but its nackerd! |
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Dickie91 | 18 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Ian\'s first multi pitch lead on the 2nd pitch!! Bit damp this morning but still a nice way up sea walls!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ian's first multi pitch lead on the 2nd pitch!! Bit damp this morning but still a nice way up sea walls!! |
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Samseabass | 22 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Did in 3 pitches. Crack Just before the blank slab and last pitch give the most enjoyment | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did in 3 pitches. Crack Just before the blank slab and last pitch give the most enjoyment |
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munromoffat | 25 May, 2019 |
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βeta: A couple of loose bits of rock in places. Of particular importance is a tempting spike so stick a sling around for the anchor at the end of the 1st pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: A couple of loose bits of rock in places. Of particular importance is a tempting spike so stick a sling around for the anchor at the end of the 1st pitch |
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Grade: S 3b ***
(Black Rocks (Eastville Park))