UKC

61m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Sea Walls classic that sees plenty of action. The climbing is bold on the third pitch but is fairly straightforward. Start at a short wall just right of a thin crack, as for Morpheus.
1) 4a, 18m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner and follow this for 5m to a belay ledge and rock spike.
2) 16m. Move leftwards up a smooth slab to a broken corner-line, follow this to a good ledge and belay on its right side. The lower belay nuts are poor but the best placement is just above and not easily seen when standing on the belay ledge.
3) 17m. Climb the right-trending slabs above in a fine position, but with no protection, to a good crack where the wall steepens. A quick pull gains a belay ledge.
4) 4a, 10m. Climb the steep, well-protected corner-crack behind the belay to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , I want a Pasty! , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , The Avon Gorge Severe Challenge , Best of the Gorge , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Avon GORGEous

Feedback

User Date Notes
Trevers 1 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Second belay is unsafe! The rock spike moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second belay is unsafe! The rock spike moves.
MattyDredge 20 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rock spike at 2nd belay unstable! Caution! My blue Z4 placed above sling moved the rock and popped out with a little tug.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock spike at 2nd belay unstable! Caution! My blue Z4 placed above sling moved the rock and popped out with a little tug.
alexdwaldron 12 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route - bolts at top of second pitch where tree used to be. Left a number 1 nut jammed in second pitch if anyone can get it out!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route - bolts at top of second pitch where tree used to be. Left a number 1 nut jammed in second pitch if anyone can get it out!
Samedmo111 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Repeat as a 3. Ran pitch 1&2 together and took a mate for his first multi pitch experiance! Cam in pitch 4 previously mentioned is still in place but badly over crammed / twisted - could prob remove if it\'s still wanted but its nackerd!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Repeat as a 3. Ran pitch 1&2 together and took a mate for his first multi pitch experiance! Cam in pitch 4 previously mentioned is still in place but badly over crammed / twisted - could prob remove if it's still wanted but its nackerd!
Dickie91 18 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Ian\'s first multi pitch lead on the 2nd pitch!! Bit damp this morning but still a nice way up sea walls!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ian's first multi pitch lead on the 2nd pitch!! Bit damp this morning but still a nice way up sea walls!!
Samseabass 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Did in 3 pitches. Crack Just before the blank slab and last pitch give the most enjoyment
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did in 3 pitches. Crack Just before the blank slab and last pitch give the most enjoyment
munromoffat 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A couple of loose bits of rock in places. Of particular importance is a tempting spike so stick a sling around for the anchor at the end of the 1st pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A couple of loose bits of rock in places. Of particular importance is a tempting spike so stick a sling around for the anchor at the end of the 1st pitch

Logged Ascents

1519 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 169 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 120
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 114
Votes cast 117
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Madiba

Grade: S 3b ***
(Black Rocks (Eastville Park))

Loading Notifications...