Right Twin*** II
[Final Pitch and cornice - all a bit soft in the sun, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.
Everett & Richardson 22/Jan/1989

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Final Pitch and cornice - all a bit soft in the sun © spearing05
View all 16 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 187 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

chris.greaves - 2nd β - 15/Feb/15

David Kay - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Pete Dalzell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/15

How easy - 2nd - 07/Feb/15 with Markygee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/14

keithlambley - AltLd - 07/Apr/13 with Kate R

Slightly damp, and a little soft up at the cornice, but a good solid route. Left hand exit not enticing, but found alternative exit on right side.
Andy Syme - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Al Goodridge

Enjoyable route although felt steep and hard for a Grade II. Very steep loose snow at the top but luckily James managed to exit left at the top onto a small snow ridge and over the cornice! We started late and climbed slowly so missed the gondola down, although summiting to a beautiful sunset made the extra walking worthwhile!
michaelmurray - AltLd - 29/Mar/13 with Matt Myerscough, James

great day out only a little wind , lots of ice and hard snow think it was more a 3 very steep may b about 70 degrees at mid height . we exit right. we were the only climber there
OZZY1962 - AltLd - 10/Mar/13 with JEROME

Great day only climbers on the face strong easterly good steep ice on a couple of pitches
Palomino1hills - Lead - 10/Mar/13 with Geoff

Solid grade III, very good apart from last pitch which was near vertical snow
oliverk - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Sarah Moorhouse

First winter Scottish lead, first multipitch lead and first encounter with a horrible cornice. Not very comfortable coming out. But, great experience and much learned.
davidbird63 - Lead - 02/Mar/13 with David Emmett, David Adcock, David Qualtrough

ten4dave - 2nd - 02/Mar/13 with David Bird

Completed on last day of Intermediate Winter Climbing course from Alan Kimber Mountaineering group - seconded and followed the trad for experience - ended with a fun cornice breakthrough. Descent was via my first snow bollard - spooky :-)
sanguine - 2nd O/S - Mar/13 with Spike Sellers

mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Mark Ice

gfpowell - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/13

KevB - Lead rpt - 27/Feb/13 with Warren Burke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13

Managed the route in two pitches. Andrew led first pitch long and didn't seem worth belaying at obvious peg belay 10m after leaving him. Top section was soft from the sun and although the cornice had been cut the snow on the plateau was really poor making the exit difficult not helped by 15 meters of loose rope below. Felt technically the same as green gulley on the Ben
spearing05 - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Andrew

WillCass - AltLd - 24/Feb/13 with Si

Found this a bit stiff for a grade II, steep ice pitch & dodgy steep snow just below the cornice, plus traffic & 3 on a rope resulted in missing the gondola & a long walk down!
JezzaCat - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Ben, Stella

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Feb/13

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Joris

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Lovely route. Felt more like III though. Stunning views made it an excellent first route for will.
gb83 - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Will AHM

Steep Ice pitch in the middle, much harder than the usual Grade II, nasty soft snow under the cornice as well made things tasty
jasoncash - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Rob Clark, Andy Cash

First Ice step grade 3 condition
markwarner - Solo - Feb/13

Hidden - 24/Jan/13

Not sure what it's normally like but felt pretty hard for a II. Good fun tho, ice of varying quality all the way took screws, rock exposed for gear. Cornice a little 'entertaining'! Easy gully v steep abb'd in. Slopes below crag good n hard.
Batt - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13 with James Hoyes

Abseiled down easy gully. Good ice but relatively lean conditions. Steep sections at bottom and mid-height were steep and icy. Insecure and bold cornice topout. Felt more like solid grade III.
Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13 with Rachel B

In 3 pitches. I led first and third, Ali led the second one.
natalio - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/12 with Ali

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/12

In good condition today
Dirty Knees - 12/Feb/12 with Matt Alexander

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/12

Should have realised would be banked up with snow but abbed down lefthand and that looked great. Snowed up and defied protection search. Bob led first sketchy pitch to decent belay and I headed up the second in the hope that pro would present itself, got a dodgy screw in halfway to the top. Had a couple of attempts at getting through the cornice at different points, snow underfoot pretty shitty and kicked big loose buckets. In the end Guy etc bashed out a bit of the lip and gave us a top roped haul out. We did the same for the next party. Exciting stuff on the lead, confidence building.
mikehenesy - AltLd dnf - 28/Jan/12 with Bobby Pearson

Stephen Halliday - 2nd β - 27/Jan/12 with Neil Halliday

Harder, leaner conditions today. I've climbed easier grade 3 routes!
edmitchell - Lead rpt - 16/Jan/12 with Emma Rowe

emmarowe - 2nd O/S - 16/Jan/12 with ed mitchell

mrterrynelson - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Jeremy

jaggy bunnet - Solo - 15/Jan/12

andybroadway - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/12 with Jeremy Morris

Sally Hudson - AltLd - 13/Jan/12 with Mike Murphy

marcusmarcus1 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/12 with Wilkie, Russ Reid

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/Mar/11

robgixer - AltLd - Mar/11

EPIC!! Started out in gorgeous sunshine with odd sprinkling of snow. Chose this line after finding another party on forgotten twin. Almost came a cropper on first pitch after an axe and both feet blew out from cruddy ice, managed to hold with remaining axe. Led all pitches to below HUGE cornice, bailed out from fixed peg above chimney. Helping another party down who only had one 50m line with them. Loads of spindrift blowing from top. Traversed out rightwards to ridge, losing a Mitt along the way. Missed Gondola by miles. Walked off in pitch black with one torch between 2 of us to find that my headtorch was in my sack afterall!!! Doh!
sadsetts - Lead dnf - 12/Feb/11 with Ronny

Fantastic route. Led pitch 1 and 3 to top out. Loads of spindrift. Felt steep!
Mr Fuller - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Dan

Gibbo - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Elaine Azzopardi, Rich Abell

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Matt_L_Robinson

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Dec/10

Had to retreat from the top as cornice to big
martin one - Lead - 16/Mar/10 with Dan, barry Hewitt

Hidden - TR O/S - 14/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/10

Spad - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

GScot38 - Lead O/S - Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Feb/09

Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/09 with Martin, Ewan Buckingham

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/09

Ha! Taught myself ice climbing with this route. First ever climb and solo.!!
EcoClimber - Solo O/S - 20/Feb/09

Very pleasant climbing. Ice in the narrows a bit soft but good grade 2.
Zoomer - AltLd - 18/Feb/09 with Danny Mc Andrew

DannyMac - AltLd - 18/Feb/09 with glenn bloomer

In good condition, although perhaps hard for grade II. Party above dropped a deadman - could have quite literally lost my head!
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Mick D

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/09

Dropped Steve's Deadman when swapping gear over at the start of the third pitch...would have been really useful to protect the exit over the cornice...oops!
Alpandy - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Steve

SteveM - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Andy

Good nick all the way, took a left hand variation on narrow chimney high up...
alan wilson - Solo - 10/Feb/09

Bit of a faff finding protection for first belay. Out of practice and usual terror negotiating the cornice. Andy 1st and 3rd pitch. Ian 2nd pitch.
Andynsloan - AltLd rpt - 10/Feb/09 with Ian Sillett

Excellent, my first taste of front pointing and abseiling off of a snow bollard. Had to run for the cable car at the end of the day!
Irk the Purist - 2nd - 09/Feb/09 with Andy

Novice - AltLd - Feb/09

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Helen Tsai

GiveHerHelen - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Jon Moulding

Mog - AltLd - 2009

Darrell Read - 31/Dec/08 with Mike Kean

With Matt Forshaw. Wrote off car on way back down the ski road! 3 days to get home from Fort William!
MartF - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead - Dec/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08

A lot of digging. Got quite warm.
beckycoles - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/08

tom_holdsworth - AltLd - 17/Mar/08 with Mike Kennedy

Calder - 2nd - 16/Mar/08 with Mark

First winter climb. Loads of uncolsolidated snow and a steep conrnice to negotiate. Best fun ever!
pepperpot - 2nd β - 16/Mar/08 with Tim

Scary cornice top out on sugary crap with basically no gear. Dug/swam my way up somehow convinced I was about to die and eventually made it...Totally fantastic
Diggler - Lead O/S - Mar/08

Led pitch 2.
malc - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/08 with Paul S

Ken Applegate - Lead - 17/Feb/08 with Dave Buckett, Phil James

gareth r - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Hywel

eagleopus - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Gareth

star8ug - AltLd O/S - Feb/08 with Brother

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/08

Went soloing while others where doing winter skills by ski lift
deano - Solo - 26/Jan/08

Simon got to about 4 metres below the cornice, but the snow was too soft. After 45mins of digging and gaining no height it looked like the cornice might collapse and knock him off, so we backed off.
My Gravity - 2nd - 19/Jan/08 with Simon S

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 05/Jan/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Jan/08

Andrew1 - Lead - 02/Jan/08 with Thom Gornell

joese7en - AltLd O/S - 2008

Luke Kelly - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/07 with Shona

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/07

Boistelle - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/07 with Mike,Gregg

DavidBarraclough - Mar/07

JDSwain - 20/Feb/07 with Andy Nisbet, Ian Swain, Ian Jackson

Great Day out, Frist winter Route
IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/07 with Swain16

left the gully after one pitch and climbed up buttress to left. enjoyable II/III
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with SteveM

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 17/Feb/07 with Helen

bms - Lead - 13/Feb/07 with DW

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/07

Mr R led first pitch, I led second. Even endured a cornice collapse being thrown down the chute over us.
bawjaws - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Martin Riddell

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/07

Sandy P - AltLd - 04/Feb/07 with LukeO

Conditions looked good but the snow on this route just fell away and couldn't get any decent axe placements. The first pitch had a tricky step over a gaping hole and the 2nd just wasn't solid so we abbed off. Good experience though.
Monk - AltLd dnf - 02/Feb/07 with Alan

I lead crux, Ewan got the cornice
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - Feb/07 with Ewan

antibubble - Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/07

MarkDavies36 - Lead O/S - 2007

Climbed with Moony after we did Glover's Chimney
kenneM - Lead - Dec/06 with Moony

First winter route, awesome! loved every minute of it. Petar led first and third pitches, Pete second and fourth.
rob wmc - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/06 with Pete & Petar

cubehead - AltLd - 12/Mar/06

Fantastic gully with some excellent ice sections. Would have been nice if the weather had been better though.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/06 with Carl Pulley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Mar/06

luckyjim - Solo - Mar/06

Rampikino - Lead - 26/Feb/06 with Liz Hay

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Feb/06 with Neil Mackay

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/06

Three on a 50m rope?!! Soft deep snow, took a while. Some steep ice underneath. Soft cornice needed 2 attempts to get over
KeithW - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/06 with Steve Prest & Elsa

Hidden - Lead - Jan/06

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 2006 with abbey

Hidden - 2006

Ice Spider - Lead - 2006 with Rew

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Dec/05

Hidden - Solo - Dec/05

icescrew - AltLd - Apr/05 with Graham Temple

Captain Solo - Solo - 07/Mar/05

Zippy1999 - Lead - Mar/05 with Alan Gordon

PenJD - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/05 with Kate Ludley

A learning experience finding protection! Malc did the run out to the top.
Andynsloan - AltLd - 10/Feb/05 with Malcolm Sloan

steev - AltLd O/S - Feb/05 with Gaz

Tom Last - 2nd - Feb/05 with Denise & Kevin

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - Feb/05 with Phil Humberstone

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/05

Steve Perry - AltLd O/S - Feb/05 with Lorraine McCall

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/05

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 29/Jan/05

Hidden - 23/Jan/05

Led the second and fourth pitches. The last to the top was basically unprotected but fine. Fantastic weather and a nice little climb. A good start to a new season.
Rob Oram - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/05 with Ramon Martin

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/05 with Rob Oram

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/04

seanyt - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/04

jsw1 - 2nd - 06/Mar/04 with David Buchanan

dan cowley - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/04 with Angus Murray and John Maguire

steveP - AltLd O/S - Mar/04 with Paul Rowlands

luckyjim - Solo - Mar/04

markshaf - 2nd - 29/Feb/04

I led all pitches
Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/04 with Frank Thies

French Erick - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/04 with Stewart Richardson

tom.e - 2nd O/S - Feb/04 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead - Feb/04

Gman - Lead O/S - Feb/04 with James

akhughes - Solo - 2004

Stone Muppet - 2004

Jim Haydock - AltLd - 15/Mar/03 with Dave Hollinger

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/03 with simon fairman

Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/02

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/02

Bruce fell off at the start of the climb then after I led the first pitch he decided that he was not able to climb so I joined an other pai(Jocky Marr + 1) to complete the climb.
John Roe - AltLd - 14/Feb/02 with Bruce Cregan

Hidden - 2002

Had to retreat from below cornice. Missed the gondola!
IanMcC - AltLd dnf - 08/Apr/01 with Jimbo

abbeywall - AltLd - 18/Mar/01 with K

crowberry gully - 17/Feb/01 with Ross McGibbon

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - Feb/01 with Steve Thomas

John Brayshaw - AltLd RP - 28/Mar/00 with Chris

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 2000

plain kitten - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/99

rlrs - 2nd - Feb/99

seanyt - Lead - 1999

Andy Say - Lead - 14/Feb/96

Hidden - Solo - 1994

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/92

Marti999 - Lead - Apr/92

OMSKB - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/92

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 67
hard II/III1 of 35
II/III1 of 35
easy II/III14 of 35
hard II12 of 35
II6 of 35
easy II1 of 35
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