A boldish start and an extended series of surprisingly difficult moves through the mid-height overhang are the highlights of this much-eyed line. Start below a thin crack 5m right of the arete.Climb just left of the thin crack to pass the low overhang and then move up steeply to the main overhang. Pull over this and follow the tricky right-leaning crack to the capping overhang. Finish up a crack on the wall right of the overhang.FA Pat Littlejohn 1978. Start described is the original start to Immaculate Arete. © Rockfax
P R Littlejohn 1978
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
My word, what hard climbing! Luke took a huge whipper falling from the slanting crack above the crux roof. Hard climbing from the get go. The first ledge is precarious and almost impossible to stay on. Pure dismay occurs as the large flake below the main roof closes up. I could not do the crux, I could only find one crappy finger lock, and nothing else. Once above the roof, the climbing doesn't ease up for quite a way. Took several falls, rests, and trying to retrieve wedged gear. We were both spanked by this beast!
|Ed Booth||13/May/13||Lead O/S||
Thought hard for e4.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2013||Lead O/S||
|Different Steve||15/May/10||2nd dog||
Flippin' 'eck that's strenuous
|Toby Dunn||11/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
soaking wet on crux
Very pumpy. E4?
Martin the vet