5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fascinating outing that takes in plenty of exciting situations and has some surprisingly difficult moves. The first pitch is at the top of the grade and care is needed to protect the second on the traverses on pitches 3 and 4. Start at a short, well-scratched thin crack.
1) 4c, 26m. Climb up past the crack and continue in the same line to a peg and a couple of good nuts just above. Gain the ledge above via a perplexing move before heading left to a short corner that ends at vegetated ledges. Various belays.
2) 4b, 10m. Above are two corners right of a big blank wall with bolts in it. Climb up the right-hand corner a metre or so and move right out to the arete and flake-crack just beyond. Climb the flake-crack to a good ledge in a corner up and left. Poor belays.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb out right and make some awkward moves diagonally rightwards to a perch on a small ledge. Step down and right and move into the wide corner-crack which is climbed to a ledge belay. It is probably wise to place a runner in the diagonal break above the belay in order to protect the second on the traverse.
4) 4b, 20m. Follow the exposed left-trending diagonal breaks with good gear and holds to a tree belay.
5) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner above the tree to the first overhang, pull left to an easy gully and finish up this, © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Stunning 5 pitch route full of variety and with some exquisitely daunting positions. Not to be taken lightly and not for the faint of heart. Low in 4c (only one 4c section if you route find correctly) but high in VS. 1st Pitch is straight up the rock and a strenuous pull up a final crack (the crux), 2nd involves some airy step outs, 3rd (traverse) requires delicacy and route finding skills as you step down, and bravery from the unprotected second as a slip will lead to an unwanted date with Morpheus (protection for the second is available if you're feeling kind). 4th is an exacting traverse with the hardest moves well protected, and the 5th though some relief is no pushover. Those short on time can split into 2 sessions using Morpheus for access.

B Annette, M Thompson (VL) Feb/1961

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, CUMC Ticklist, Avon VSes.

67hours 15/Nov Lead O/S
with Jess
thom_jenkinson 04/Nov AltLd rpt

I led P1 and we simul-climbed the rest. In total took about 1 hour.

Dino Dave 04/Nov AltLd rpt

Night time ascent - Thom led P1, moved together after that

Hidden 28/Oct AltLd
Hidden 28/Oct AltLd
onlyfoddington 25/Oct AltLd O/S

The traverses were pretty airy and enjoyable.

with James H
Kayan 25/Oct AltLd
Doug miller 21/Oct Lead rpt

Managed to pull a hold off the final pitch. Meaning I got to try my nice new harness properly.

mr random 16/Oct AltLd

Raf lead p1 I strung p2 & p3 together. This was a mistake had just enough quickdraws and buit a hideous complicated belay, missing the peg further on. Route finding difficult and high in the graide. Raf did the nice traverse pitch and I got the nice muddy exit gully. Probably a nightmare in the rain.

with Rafael Malczyk
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Neil Prickett
NeilPrickett 03/Oct 2nd dog
with Dan Vaj
lcullum7 01/Oct 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct Lead O/S
Lil_Pete 27/Sep Solo rpt

Sunday solo, brief meander up and down sleepwalk to help a girl with a nut problem, then back down and up Gronk. Always so much fun.

laurashaw 26/Sep AltLd O/S
thom_jenkinson 26/Sep AltLd O/S

Led the pitches I had seconded on previous ascent - very pleasant climbing.

smartydh9 26/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep AltLd
crater 20/Sep AltLd O/S

lead 2+4, good climb,great situations

with steve
Hidden 18/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep AltLd
WillAndrew 12/Sep AltLd O/S
with Ali
ali.scott 12/Sep AltLd O/S

led 1&4 (ran 2&3 together)

with Will A
gj13787 06/Sep AltLd O/S

First VS

with Colin
ChrisWills 05/Sep AltLd dog

Had to take a breather on the bolt on the first pitch whilst I worked out the mantle - that move felt pretty bold

with Pierce
Hidden 01/Sep Lead β
danieleaston 22/Aug AltLd rpt

Led 1&3. Really happy to lead 1 clean this time, and not going off-route at the crux! Still favourite climb in the gorge.

with Saz
Jack Porteous 08/Aug AltLd O/S
gobbledigook 07/Aug AltLd O/S

Led p2+3 (ran together) and p4. A pleasant evening out in the gorge, p2+3 I kept turning to ask if I was on the right route! Thankfully I was :-) step down for the first traverse is... interesting, but gear and holds their when you need them.

Steve Bartle 07/Aug AltLd rpt

I led P1 and P4 this time, having previously done 2, 3 and 5. No less exiting than last time. I still think that P3 is pretty scary!

with Dan G
Scottysparks 05/Aug 2nd O/S

Top pitch and traverse not completed due to weather

with Tony McPhillips
Hidden 01/Aug AltLd
eduardo 01/Aug Lead O/S

Led all but last pitch. P1 technical and psychological crux, although with an avoidable crux sequence. Great route.

with donna
Scottysparks 29/Jul 2nd dnf

Got to first belay, dean didnt feel confident on the rest if the climb

with Dean pennell, Tony McPhillips
Hidden 21/Jul AltLd
Jack Porteous 20/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul AltLd O/S
matt.jj 11/Jul Lead O/S

Pitch 3 traverse takes some nerve. Well protected but be kind, and protect your second using the seam above!

with Ben Brady
m_andersson 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Intentionally doing Gronk this time with the aid of a guidebook. Ben lead pitch 1& 4 and I did 2,3 (joined) and the last rather unexciting pitch. Enjoyed the variety of the climb with some steep parts, some stepping out and a bit of traversing. Great weather!

DoMakeSayThink 04/Jul AltLd O/S

I led P1&4. Loved the climbing on P1, and the whole thing was a great adventure. Some slightly airy moves on the traverses!

Gustav 30/Jun AltLd O/S

Led p1 &4. Very enjoyable evening.

with Rob
Rob Morgan 30/Jun AltLd

Led 2nd & 3rd pitch (joined), also 5th pitch. Very hot day but fantastic climb.

Hidden 29/Jun AltLd
Pohil 25/Jun Lead O/S
with SP
Alessandro Tentori 20/Jun AltLd O/S
with Jan Hrbacek
Jan.Hrb 20/Jun AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun Lead dnf
Dr Toph 08/Jun Solo O/S

nice route with good exposure, but tricky routefinding on p3!

Chubbard 06/Jun AltLd O/S

Really good.

with Daryl
catty_9 04/Jun 2nd O/S

Tried leading first pitch but the crux is pumpy and my arms died so Jonny led it instead.

with Jonny Raines
Lil_Pete 30/May Solo rpt

Fun Saturday Solo!

Kemics 25/May AltLd rpt

Following Pete and Corin. Forgot how hard the first 4c move by the peg is. Traverse is good fun.

with Mel
wilkinscl 25/May AltLd

p1, p4

with Pete
Melonfly 25/May AltLd β
with Caleb
Lil_Pete 25/May AltLd rpt
with Corin
Hidden 23/May Lead rpt
lukimotaka 23/May 2nd

Second attempt - much easier than the first! Definitely lots of exposure on the traverses but the climbing is not too tricky.

with Josh
RichyBOYY 22/May AltLd O/S

Did P 1 and 3 and 5 - thought the route was decent albeit overrated

with Joe
Pete Scott 17/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May Lead
Mr. K 10/May Lead rpt

Snuck off left around the pitch one crux as it was ver ver greasy and I didn't want to risk a lead fall with an inexperienced belayer. Otherwise good. =o)

FlamehairedFrodo 10/May 2nd
Hidden 09/May Lead O/S
hutchay 09/May Lead rpt
with Luke Sonnex
Doug miller 01/May AltLd O/S

Strung pitch 2+3 together Wildblood did 1,4+5

cwildblood 01/May Lead O/S

p1, p4 and p5 myself and doug lead p2&3, nice route with some good moves and positions

Hidden ?/May AltLd
philmcf ?/May AltLd
Digga ?/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr Lead O/S
Egons Issy 14/Apr 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
hutchay 11/Apr Lead O/S
with Miriam Billig, Fliss
miriamclaire 11/Apr 2nd rpt
with hutchay
Hidden 06/Apr Lead dnf
thompsonjr21 06/Apr AltLd dnf

Meant to climb Morpheus started on this without knowing. Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Right traverse was scary, realised it certainly wasn't a V diff. Finished on Morpheus. Will finish this another time

Hidden 06/Apr 2nd
Tim_C7 ?/Apr Lead

Really nice climb.

Hugobristol ?/Apr Lead O/S
with Liam
AshBarnes ?/Apr AltLd dnf

Did the first pitches of Gronk without realising due to poor route reading. Ended on Morpheus which was the original intention. Scary but we managed!

with Gravy
philhilo 29/Mar 2nd O/S
with Helen E
Legs 20/Mar AltLd rpt

Great climb after work in the sunshine. I lead the traverse pitch this time. Up there as one of the best pitches in the gorge.

sheelba 20/Mar AltLd
Rebs 04/Mar AltLd O/S

Led 2, 3 and 5

thom_jenkinson 04/Mar AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 4. Ace route - loads of fun!

with Rebs
Hidden 28/Feb AltLd O/S
nickwhimster 28/Feb AltLd O/S
with dan
felixizzy 25/Jan AltLd rpt
with Bernard
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 25/Jan 2nd
steve_gibbs 24/Jan Lead rpt
with Sam
robburgundy ??/2015 2nd
with Pete
Hidden ??/2015 -
danmullett ??/2015 -
Jess Mace 29/Nov/14 2nd
with Thomas Eldridge
Hidden 14/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Fatclimber 25/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Done in 4 pitches. I did P2 and final pitch (bit of Morpheus then straight up)

halfwaythere 25/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

part gronk and part something else

with stevefc
Steve Bartle 19/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, but, as the description says, not for the faint-hearted. I led pitches 2&3 (strung together) and 5. The step down and across on pitch 3 is particularly 'interesting.' Note: the flake at the start of pitch 2, referred to in the decription is no longer there, which makes it a bit harder for sure

Tom F Harding 19/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1 & 3 and did in 4. Top traverse is really good.

pad-rat 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Legs 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

All bar the last are fantastic pitches. Each with its own distinct feel and moves. Really enjoyed this climb.

Hidden 20/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
sara n 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Paul led p1 which was polished and high in the grade. I led p2&3 together...the first pitch has a shallow corner which is a bit technical but was less scary to do after placing three micro wires. the traverse is hard to protect and feels exposed but is do-able. Paul led the last pitch, but went straight up rather than traversing back to the left.

with Paul Wolf
Richardlake 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1 & 3, Will pitch 2. First pitch is a really nice crack climb, quite straight forward. Traverse pitch is ace, exposed, really big positive holds, really well protected with plenty of cams. The traverse crack was absolutely full of tiny little earwig type bugs that all swarmed out over my hands, arms and face as i climbed past. Unpleasant but hilarious.

will_lake 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
dmannion 06/Sep/14 AltLd

awesome climb well worth doing

with jim newington
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vincej 03/Aug/14 AltLd
with Nevil
Nevil 03/Aug/14 AltLd
with Vince
Justin Shiels 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S

2 and 4. P1 is bold 5a.

with Ray Mardon
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Luck meant I got the traverse pitch. Was an amazing lead. Rest was nothing special.

el_monty 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 26/Jul/14 Lead

Climbed in the heat of the afternoon at the "Climb Bristol" fest. A great route, There has been a loose flake recently removed from pitch 2. By moving right from the first stance almost to Morpheus, then back left just below the ivy and just above the rock fall scars, the grade remains at about vs. Pitch 4 is superb.

with Solly Kemball Dorey
chrismadar 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Nice climbing, little bit polished at the start.

with Matthew Lawles
timstyles 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Huw P1+3+5, Me P2+4

with Huw Howells
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/14 2nd dog
CallumSmith 02/Jul/14 AltLd

First pitch is top end VS, but the rest is quite straight forward and enjoyable.

Annabel Tall ?/Jul/14 2nd β
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jogle03 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
joelewisoutdoor 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
mikedevcole 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

With Paul G. P1, P3, P5

philmcf ?/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
AndrewCollins ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Finan
eddy-on-the-rocks 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
youwillfindjimbo 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore
Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd
saraguti 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
jon_ridley 15/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1-3, can't believe I've never done the traverse before, what a treat.

sheelba 14/May/14 AltLd

Retrieved a microwire from pitch 2. Get in touch if you want it back

Hidden 11/May/14 AltLd
Lyndsay Superclimber 11/May/14 AltLd rpt

I led 1st & 3rd pitch - hold fell off and had big fall!

with Ryan
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Lev 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

L, 2, L, 2, L

joedoherty 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
mattprince 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2,3 & 5th Pitch. Exposed traverse on 3rd pitch

philmcf ?/May/14 Lead
Andrew Sloan 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Good route, thought the crux on pitch 1 was well protected 5a.Ran pitches 2 and 3 together. Dave couldn't get a cam out at the start of pitch 4 so I had to reverse climb it to get my gear!!

with Dave
Dino Dave 15/Apr/14 AltLd dog

Rested on crux. Led P1,3,4,5

with Paul AMC
marsden.d.paul 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Only lead pitch 2.

with Dave AMC
jackc 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd dnf
Phil PBC 12/Apr/14 -
with Andy
lukimotaka 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 29/Mar/14 AltLd
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Martin ran pitches 1-3 together, I led p4 M p5. Good route

with Martin Haworth
Egons Issy 23/Mar/14 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
Slick 23/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 16/Mar/14 -
George Frisby 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Really good climb, surprisingly good gear for a VS in the gorge. Tried going too high for the traverse on pitch two at first until I realised it was too hard and saw the proper route lower down.

Luke Davies 16/Mar/14 AltLd
Dave Mahon 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

P1 felt stiff with cold fingers. Matt went wrong on p2 (Morpheus). the traverse was a dream.

Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Echna 15/Mar/14 AltLd rpt

Lead pitches 1 and 3 this time round. So much fun once again.

with Rich
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Jim Brooke 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

1st pitch and last pitches, to get to/from False Alarms

with Rich
pheotleyr 26/Feb/14 AltLd rpt

Led 1st & traverse pitch.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 26/Feb/14 AltLd rpt
with Peter
shoulders 25/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

forgot the nuts so used just the friends and slings. rain made it even more interesting. led long traverse pitch

Hidden 25/Feb/14 Lead rpt
CurlyStevo 22/Feb/14 Lead

Lead all pitches but went around the bold crux on pitch 1. Took the lower traverse line higher up just popping up in the obvious places to place gear....

with Rob
jezb1 19/Feb/14 Lead

Cool route, straight forward climbing for the grade but thought required for pro on some sections.

steve_gibbs 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Echna 02/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2+3 and 5 pitch.

with Andy
Hidden ??/2014 -
AndyF 21/Dec/13 AltLd
matt_claydon 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Led 2nd, 3rd & 5th pitches (2 & 3 together). Jim led 1st & 4th.

with Jimbo
Hidden 02/Oct/13 Lead
lordsauce 16/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Lead second pitch. Abseiled down from top of third pitch as it got dark.

twem 09/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & P4

alastairbegley 09/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
turbojames 05/Sep/13 2nd
George Frisby 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

lead last two pitches

with Chris
stafford101 01/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Lead pitches 1-3, took a few minutes to rework the crux after forgetting how to do it! Great climb, lovely evening.

Hidden 30/Aug/13 2nd
Tristypants 30/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Bec Chalkley
Col Kingshott 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
jtree03 28/Aug/13 AltLd
with Col
WKaufhold 27/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
swmackey 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
danieleaston 12/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Mark
Feeling bold 07/Aug/13 2nd dog

Started too late, took a while and bit of a rest on the rope to gain the ledge of P1. Left gear in P2 and climbed through first traverse in dark. Left via last pitch of morpheus and dark descent of woods. This is the first time I have shed tears on rock route:(( I'm so glad Tom kept his cool and lead head on. 3rd time on Gronk and it went so well in 2007!

with Tom
danieleaston 24/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Climbed as a 3. fell at first pitch crux. Finished in the dark and rain. brilliant!

with nancy, Saz
saz_b 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Finally back to complete in the dark and rain - lead p4 this time. Great route!

Didymus 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

In 28 degrees baking full sun. Led p1, p2&3, p4. Really good route.

with Remo
andrea83 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Ld P1 and P4. Crux of P1 looked a lot harder than 4c to me and the only protection for a few metres was the rusty old peg. Wasn't worth doing the crux with such poor gear so went to the left and then back onto the route. Otherwise, really lovely climb with some interesting traverses.

with Hamish
Hamish777 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I lead Pitches 2 and 3. Getting to the RH traverse was quite hard, actually doing the traverse was somewhat worse. The lack of gear and exposure was a little unnerving, but it was a real thrill completing it. Gronk is a great route and a real adventure.

with Andrea
saz_b 18/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Lead p1, p2&3, half of p4. Backed off and exited on easier ground as properly dark and no head torch!

with Steph
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Lil_Pete 19/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Once again forgot how great this climb was until we got on it. Love it to bits! Finished up Morpheus after running a bit short on time climbing as a three. A couple of loose blocks came off and trundled. Also the flakes seemed hollower than I remember - I actually took a cam out from behind one because I didn't want to fall and then bring the flake off. Bit peeved when team of two started up Morpheus directly below after we'd bought a huge block down a minute or two earlier - whole crag was clear and would have felt guilty if something else had come down.

Croakinglizard 19/Jun/13 2nd

Done as part of a three with Luke n Pete alternating lead. Finished up Morpheus due to time

with luke hutchinson, Pete Derett
budoghost 14/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Only 1st Pitch

Brian Moseley 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
bonoid 08/Jun/13 Lead

Lead all pitches this time

andyclimber 25/May/13 2nd O/S
becoming-stranger 20/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Adam G
Griff1990 20/May/13 AltLd O/S

P2, P4

Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Alex_RhodesUK 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Cracking afternoon out on an Avon classic!

Clay C 06/May/13 AltLd rpt
with Tom E
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Stanners 06/May/13 Lead rpt

such a good route. That first pitch does give you that move you have to think about though! Our Ascent https://vimeo.com/65645295

with Alex Rhodes
HarryB 05/May/13 AltLd rpt

P 1+5

laurence_falconer 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 2,3 and 4 with 2 being strung together

mikeydee135 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
Alex the Alex ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Alex the Alex ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
wurzelinzummerset 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 4.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 30/Apr/13 AltLd β


with Alan
Slick 30/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden 24/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
localboy 23/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

I did P2, 3 + 5. Great route.

with Simon F
Hidden 23/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
simonf 23/Apr/13 Lead
with Mike
brett.mcelwaine 21/Apr/13 2nd O/S

With dean merchant and anna

Dean177 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Lead 1&2 together, with Ana and Brett Seconding.

georgeevans88 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Martin
mkonca 14/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with steve gibbs
KitRabbette 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Slightly dubious in places. Lauren fell on the traverse. Fecking cold!

LaurenFord 03/Mar/13 2nd dog
Kevster 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

First 3 pitches can be done as one @ 56m long

Gavdee1 02/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Feb/13 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 17/Feb/13 AltLd

Felt hard for VS.

with Rik Meek
thomaspomfrett 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Move felt tough at 4c but I've not climbed a lot of limestone admittedly

with Kirsty Marsden
paultaylor 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S


with Andy B
andygb 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd and 4th pitches. Paul led 1st and 3rd pitches

with Paul Taylor
chiverstom 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Alice
jonbwoy ??/2013 -
steve_gibbs ??/2013 2nd O/S
with Ross Davidson
pheotleyr 18/Dec/12 AltLd rpt

led first pitch and the traverse pitch (which in theory is the 4th, practically the 3rd). crux on the first pitch isn't too easy really.

with Dan C
Dan_Carroll 18/Dec/12 AltLd rpt
Bobling 18/Nov/12 AltLd

Another Avon VS off the list! Had avoided this one for a couple of years though as I know someone who had an accident at the top of pitch one. This was the technical crux I thought (hard 4c?), but protectable. Pitches 2 & 3 OK with a few awkward moves, pitch 4, the psychological crux, was a romp as it turned out - Avon at its best. Pitch five was a whimper, not a bang which was a shame.

with Joe
bonoid 18/Nov/12 AltLd

Lead P1, 3 and 5 (if you can call 5 a pitch) Found P1 a bit tricky at first but a nice climb over all!

with Bobling
darren hudson 11/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

nice climb. toughish start for grade. climbed as two pairs. lovely day

with ian butterworth, Richard Nadin, David Ford
steve-grigg 13/Oct/12 AltLd rpt

Thanks to the guys who lent me a jacket after it hammered it down while I was doing the 2nd traverse

Chris Sansum 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt

Ended up leading the crux traverse 3 times after second didn't fancy doing the technical bit unprotected (swing there if second falls off is nasty). So rigged it up as a backrope and went back to retrieve gear afterwards. On next pitch heavy hail came down just as I was setting off. Retreated back to belay. Luckily it dried off eventually and we finished the route. Nice day out repeating an old classic!

Ed Babs 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

P2&3. Really good!

chris687 06/Oct/12 Lead

lead the first 3 pitches, then finished up the easy (Diff?) route next to it as we were taking a long time. Used a pulley rescue system to help one of my seconds up the first pitch.

with si barnby, Ben E
Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
georgeevans88 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with James N
jamesn89 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead dnf
katherinesydney 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
J.Atkins 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lead all 5 pitches, tough for a VS but great climbing, some very exposed positions

Webster 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Done in 4 pitches, ran 1st 2 together, i lead 1 and 3. went off route slightly on pitch 1 which made it feel really easy, but felt like the more natural line. pitch 2 was scary to second!

steve-grigg 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with James S
James S 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with jamie
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
colinkeb 13/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

completed first pitch and stared second only to see the clouds coming in so moved across to finish on morpheus. next time!

with paddy wilson
mallardhealhook 08/Jul/12 AltLd
Anthony Dixon 26/Jun/12 Lead
haydng 19/Jun/12 AltLd rpt

A mini epic with poor routing finding by Dave R and an escape onto the VD at the end of P3. Gronk as ever was fantastic though!

with Dave R
jon_gill1 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

me p1,p3,p5.chris did 2 and 4.p3 felt higher than vs for the first half as practically unprotected.second half easy climbing with good gear!

with chris Lyness
Dave 88 01/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Pete lead 2,3 (together) & 5. I lead 1st and 4th. Typical Avon route. Read into that what you will.

with Salisbury Pete
Tom Brierley Gore 30/May/12 Solo rpt

It still takes ages even without gear ! Some parts are a bit scary to solo, like the small traverse right and the long traverse left, it actually feels safer to do it the less efficient way and keep your hands in the deep groove along the top which is basically campusable.

Katherine Ross 28/May/12 2nd dog

Charlie led P1-3 in one and I led P4 and P5 in one. Did not enjoy the first part as I was feeling dehydrated and a bit dizzy in the heat, and had to aid with the rope for the harder sections. The main traverse pitch is really nice, though! Definitely 4b rather than 4c. Just caught the ice cream van at the top :)

cbeard 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

I linked all pitches before the main traverse. A great outing and a really nice belay as the sun went down

mullermn 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Me P1,3,5 Kylie P2,4. Finally finished this route after having to abandon it due to dark last time. Did P1 in better style than before - very direct, avoided all routes around the challenging bits. Had surprising trouble on P3 as I tried to traverse across too high, very straightforward once I realised the mistake.

Quarryboy 26/May/12 AltLd rpt

Jason wanted to do yet another big multi pitch route so we decided that this was the best choice as far as things around the VS grade go. Jason insisted that we would be able to do it quickly and although we climbed fast it must have still taken at least 2 hours to do all 5 pitches.

with Jason
ron244 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Alex George
Hidden 24/May/12 AltLd
Mayaculpa 23/May/12 2nd

Climbed at 17:00 Good quality rock, great route, fabulous weather

with John Volanthen
Hidden 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
katherinesydney 19/May/12 AltLd rpt

OK, we were both nursing colds, but My Goodness were we slow! Late start due to lazy day didn't help. Finished in the dark.

Kemics 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,4,5. A few hard well protected moves. The rest was a scramble. With man flu, 2 stars seems generous?

birthers 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

AM P1,3,5, TB P2,4. My first multi-pitch VS, and a great climb. McCoy did well on the first pitch crux, then the second pitch was a nice step out into space. The 3rd pitch took McCoy a while to work out where to go, and was probably as serious to 2nd when stepping down and out. I really enjoyed the massive traverse on pitch 4, which I laced with gear.

Hidden 19/May/12 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 18/May/12 AltLd

led P2,3,5

with David Coley
Ragingpossum 16/May/12 Lead β

After bailing the bottom crux and going off route last time, I have finally come back and nailed the route. Greate climbing, shame about the last pitch.

with Tom Eldridge
squicky 12/May/12 AltLd dog

Didn't have my trad head on after 5 months without climbing so had a mini epic on the first pitch. All harder than I remember but otherwise fine.

with George
Bonkers Dog 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Lead P1-3 cleanly and then bailed onto Morpheus as it got dark. Brilliant exhilarating climbing. Went very high on the traverse on P3 - definitely harder than 4b done that way! My first route in the gorge - will be back for more!

with Ali
stafford101 02/May/12 Lead β

Managed to work out the crux on P1 - it turns out that taking the guidebook too literally and climbing the vertical crack directly gives a rather harder top out move than the 4c move just to the left. The remainder of the climb took an excellent line and had interest added with the two traverses and an owl toilet on the final pitch.

Hidden 01/May/12 AltLd O/S
Sam Mitchell 24/Apr/12 2nd dnf

An interesting night route involving a downpour, cold wet limestone and a nice swing off the face whilst attempting traverse by myself. Finished off on Morpheus but will do this again!

with Will Bourne
Ragingpossum 24/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Went off route on the third pitch by continuing up the left hand corner which was no where near vs 4c so backed off and then finished off up morpheus. Retrieved gear today. Now I know where the route actually goes I will be back as soon as possible, really nice climbing with good protection.

with Sam Mitchell
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Murilo Lessa 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led the 1th and 3th picht. Beautifull route! Nice airy traverse. One the best VSs so far!

with Alex Desborough
stafford101 28/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out the crux on P1, tried pulling over the headwall above the peg half a dozen times but couldn't stick the holds. Escaped to the left and finished up Morpheus.

pheotleyr 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

i was happy not to lead the first pitch, lead pitches 2 &3 as one, then 4 as well, very enjoyable

with Todd
TDembrey 24/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 1, let Peter do the interesting bits in the middle.

with Peter
Egons Issy 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
Voltemands 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Strayed way too high on pitch two, managed to reverse the six or so moves but I would heavily suggest not making the mistake in the first place! Hairy moment. Entertaining and easy traverse.

Slick 10/Mar/12 AltLd
Davebryant 10/Mar/12 Lead
with Matt Hale
Hidden 02/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Kyle87 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S

strayed a little high on pitch 3, fun/scary alternative but would not have enjoyed that mistake on lead...

Hidden 19/Feb/12 AltLd rpt
mark schramm 14/Feb/12 Lead O/S

first pitch only.

with Lyndsay
FrenchOlly ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Went off-route and went up the last pitch of Mobius instead

Hidden ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/12 AltLd rpt
Nick Russell 21/Jan/12 Solo rpt
thomb 14/Jan/12 AltLd
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Tom B
jiggerypokery 12/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Mim
saintlade ??/2012 -
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
gary.earl ??/2012 Lead
Eagertom ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
HarryB 19/Nov/11 AltLd rpt

Led 1, 3 & 5

with Becky
Chris Sansum 13/Nov/11 Lead rpt

Have done this route a few too many times now! Led all pitches. Finished direct up overhang.

Eike 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
squicky 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lead all. Hardly used protection to save time as it was getting dark and rolled pitches 2 & 3 together.

with George
Hidden 20/Oct/11 Lead
squicky 19/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Got drenched in a shower and little bro was in deck shoes so bailed from the top of pitch 3. Downclimbing to someone else's abseil setup in the rain was interesting, but thanks for leaving it all set up! First experience of using a maillon rapide.

with George
DerwentDiluted 15/Oct/11 Lead

Great route, led all pitches. Lots of swearing and some tears from Mrs Diluted, she's not a traverse fan.

with Nicola Pettit
bemdl 09/Oct/11 AltLd
halfwaythere 07/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

I think the rightward traverse should be graded 5a

jiggerypokery 06/Oct/11 Lead rpt

finished on morpheus due to getting dark.... still havent done it! haha

Paul D Jones 06/Oct/11 -

Gronk. Apt name. Gronk.

pffft 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Wonderful fun, pitch 1 felt hard for 4c. The rest lovely especially the pitch 4 traverse.

with Jojo Mills
Gary S 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Cracking route. My first introduction to Avon. Found the traverse a bit intimidating to start with

with Tom Moat
wild_nomad 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Good adventurous climbing. Strung pitch 2 & 3 together. Exposed at times but VS about right.

Nick Russell 29/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Always a fun route to do. Beautiful day for it! Finished up Gold Star on P5

Danny Bags 24/Sep/11 Lead
nick hawkins 03/Sep/11 AltLd
with peter
halfwaythere 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Led the traverse; used small cams a lot (3/4" to 1 1/2 ")

djking1983 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 31/Aug/11 AltLd β

Got gronked the previous day - lost the route on P2, ended up skipping the P3 traverse (Part of Terror Firma or Bastardised, I think) then downclimbing half of P4 and bailing up Morpheus. Repeat attempt much more successful!

matt25 31/Aug/11 AltLd

Hard for a 4c, quite bold and unprotected, good climbing and traversing though

Chris Sansum 14/Aug/11 AltLd rpt

Chris P1, Jeph P2-3 (linked), Chris P4, Jeph P5. Extremely hung over... Nice display by the Red Arrows as we climbed!

thomasaneurinsmith 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Great fun all the way! First pitch was particularly exciting

with Katherine Torr
Ffej 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris Sansum
i_a_coops 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
jameslam 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Thorneycroft
bonoid ?/Aug/11 -

Was meant to climb Morpheus, but got a bit lost. So climbed pitches 2 + 3 of this. Was great fun!

luke13 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with oli
DOVEY 31/Jul/11 AltLd
with Billie x
Quarryboy 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3 and 4. Felt knackered reaching the top. The route features lots of brilliant exposed climbing as well as decent protection and interesting belays I also think its fair at the grade. Got a bit confused regarding route finding on the 3rd pitch but its fairly obvious, you just have to follow the chalk and the polish. A great Avon outing!

JamesRich 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

What a great route on beautiful day. I did P2 and P5. I agree with the grade although there's no way the traverse pitch is 4c, it's much easier.

Betha. 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

ran first two pitches together, led traverse pitch

with Neil D
Neil D 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P2+3, and final pitch.

Urgles 21/Jul/11 Lead rpt

1st pitch only

with Jack and Rob
BB1 14/Jul/11 2nd

Love this route......really enjoyed the traversing!

with P Ross
fragglerock 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Good value for VS. DL Led P1/P2, P3 & P5. TP Led P4.

lukerathmell ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Carl Stubbs
Tom Brierley Gore 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Feeling bold 29/Jun/11 2nd dnf

Not in the groove, so got lowered off to become team photographer.

with Tom
fishinwater 28/Jun/11 Lead

Lead the traverse

carl_123 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with luke rathmell
jon thompson27 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

brill, brill, brill - perfect Avon bliss :-) 4 hours of fun in perfect weather with a great friend

with Ian Woodroe
Cheese Monkey 10/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Led p1, quality pitch. Hammered down whilst belaying so abbed off :(

with Jason
Mike Kiss 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Nick 'tough old bird, this one'

with Nick Hatton
psronan 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
BB1 31/May/11 2nd

Did the first three pitches and ran pitches 2 & 3 together. I really enjoyed it. Will finish it next time.

with P Ross
jiggerypokery 29/May/11 2nd dnf

Got well and truly gronked. got lost, recovered, then slipped on the traverse into no mans land. epic day out

dprctr 29/May/11 Lead dnf

Lead 1st and 2nd pitch OS, due to time we hade to bail and Paul lead an escape route.

Chris Sansum 15/May/11 Lead rpt
with Elena Songprasert
cayteye 13/May/11 AltLd O/S


with Brian Mead
Dave Ing 01/May/11 Lead rpt

Ran P2 & P3 together. Led all. Didn't get lost this time. It's a great climb!

with Alex
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd rpt
Phil PBC ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
Pete Rigby ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Sash
Stanners 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

just perfect. Really enjoyable route with some exciting moments. easily a 3 star route for me.

with Martin Stanfield
Stanley 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Dave Ing 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Roped solo, led pitches 1&2 fine, then got rushed by a pair who decided to climb the route while I was climbing and backed off pitch 3 after getting lost off route. Will try again as it was fun.

liamoloughlin 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Slick 18/Apr/11 AltLd
gingergeorge 09/Apr/11 Lead
with ben and jonno
Hidden 07/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 AltLd
stvredmond 02/Apr/11 AltLd

Led P1,3 and 5. good climb. definately one for people who dont mind exposed climbing.

katherinesydney 02/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with jonny kelly
clams ?/Apr/11 Lead
with NB
webbe01 28/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
suffolknick 25/Mar/11 AltLd

Only led 5th pitch but seconded pitches 3 and 4 in the dark - awesome traverse lines. Pitch one the hardest.

with clams
clams 25/Mar/11 AltLd
with NB
Hidden 13/Mar/11 2nd dog
Jon_Warner 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

P1,P2, in the light P3 in the pitch black Finished up morpheus

with Antony
HarryB 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2&4, Ali did 1,3 & 5, my first VS

Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd rpt
stanante 05/Mar/11 2nd dnf

First 3 pitches of Gronk. Final 2 on Morpheus in the dark

Kate Edhouse 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, strayed onto Mopheous.

kyle 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
hutchay ?/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Got lost :(

with Dave Clover
Hidden 18/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 18/Jan/11 AltLd rpt

Helen P1 and 4. Me P2/3 in one, and 5.

with Helen S
31770 ??/2011 -
tom.o.prince ??/2011 2nd O/S
fletch73 ??/2011 -
felixizzy ??/2011 -
TDembrey 10/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with James
Clay C 10/Nov/10 Lead rpt

Louise fell off halfway up P2/3 (i ran them together) and took a big swing out onto the steep face above the Morpheus belay ledge. With a bit of assistance from the rope she managed to get up the steep wall and make it to the belay. We then decided to escape up the last pitch of Mobius because it was getting dark.

with Louise
Hidden 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 06/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Led the 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches.

with Tomar
Tomar 06/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

P2 and p5. Why do I find climbing at this grade at Avon very awkward and not very enjoyable?

with Oli
Tempest 24/Oct/10 2nd

3rd Pitch variation, up top of nightcap

Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd
kyle 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Sam1991 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

First pitch awkward, traverse pitch awesome, dave did the rest. First route in 6 weeks, and i felt it.

with Dave USMC
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
mattshort 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
brew_guru 13/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

haha.....what a fun route and so avon gives me that "what the fuck am i doing here" feeling again!!!!**

with alex harper
Shonkhor 08/Oct/10 2nd

Glad to get back on this one. Loved the traverses.

with Rich
Gaijin 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

What an epic 4 hours and a fabulous afternoon. P3's traverse was nothing short of spectacular, much nicer than the traverse at the end of P2 towards Morpheus (never been more scared than that traverse!)

with Will
Hidden 06/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
PaulWatson 25/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

Yay, done in one go (4 hours), and now led all 5 pitches. Led 1,3,4 this time (3 still scares the c*@p out of me). Dont agree with the guide book technical grades I would say: 4c (or even 5a) 4a 4b 4b 3b, though 3 & 4 are VS leads.

with Pete
Paul Bowen 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Nicola Brankley
aipattison 11/Sep/10 AltLd dog

Led P2&4. Both took rests on lead attempt on P1, at awkward bulge-mantle-thing. Cate fell, having broken a hold.

catemuir 11/Sep/10 AltLd

I lead pitch 1 (well, not really, neither of us could do the move above the peg so nipped round to the left), 3 and 5; Alex lead 2 and 4. I do love this climb :) (except that one move on P1)

mrrjmcneil ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
LJC 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Ben lead P1 no problems. I ran P2 and 3 together but accidentally went off route by going up the wrong 'shallow groove' whilst making my way right. Ended up terrified on one of the two E5 routes either side and had a really nasty half an hour down climbing and sorting myself out. The actual route is nice and very obvious once you reach the P3 belay ledge. I think the correct route goes up the left of the large ivy patch and then immediately down over the top of it on the other side. Continue down about 2m to a very obvious ledge where you can then move right and up to the belay. Ben lead the P4 traverse which would have been really fun had my arms not been giving up after the previous encounter. The crack on the fault line is a bit flaky inside and is also full of shrimp like rock crustaceans which are unpleasant when they get in your face. Final pitch is more of a scramble at the top leading to a belay off the railings of the park above.

ben.richards 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route (apart from the first pitch which was V. run out). Luca ran the second & third pitch together, which had some amazing exposure and delicate climbing I lead P1, P4 (loved the traverse!!) & P5. Route finding through P2 & P3 was a little difficult so study those guide books carefully!!

Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
cbeard 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Bailed off onto Morpheus as darkness fell

with Kara
PaulWatson 27/Jul/10 AltLd rpt

4 & 5 only (Acsessed via Morpheus, on which Muny Cheated !!). 4 is as great to follow as it is to lead, but only the bsort of thing you enjoy after the achievement. 5 is a shame.

with Rosy, Muny
Ly-Cilph 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Nice traverses!

with James M
paulnc 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
matt_claydon 12/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Felt much less exposed than the last time. Move near the top of P1 above the old peg still feels hard for 4c though!

with Rob ?
django 05/Jul/10 Lead dog

pitch one is no pushover!

with John Rowe
Dizz 04/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Interesting creatures living in the cracks. I envied their climbing skills where the holds were thin! Led P1 and P4. Some slightly desperate bits on pitch 1 with sparse gear - think I needed to be taller!

NB Pixel 04/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Peg seems to have gone for 2nd belay- ran 2nd and 3rd pitches together without rope drag issues. Failed to step down on traverse of 3rd pitch which meant some delicate and sketchy moves. Have discovered ants are much better at this game than me.

with DizLiz
simonf 29/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P4. Simon strung P2 and P3 together.

with Simon, Mike
localboy 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
dan ely 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S


with jon
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Quick climb to get warmed up for Suspension Bridge Buttress later on. Chris P1 Rich P2-3 (linked), 5 Zoe P4

with Zoe, Richard Lade
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
R_W_M 04/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Todd
Slick 04/Jun/10 Lead
TDembrey 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 4, Ran pitches 2 & 3 togehter. Very nice climb

with Rob
Clay C 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 4th pitch. Probably the best route ive done in the Gorge!

with Will A
Hidden 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Poco Loco 03/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

Weve been Gronked. I backed off P1 after nearly falling from the move by the peg. Will climbed past the peg and fell off some balancy moves. Now getting his heel x-rayed...

with Billy
Shonkhor 03/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Came off on moves above peg on 1st pitch. Fractured heel bone. Bummed.

with James
sweenyt 27/May/10 Solo

Last 2 pitches from the top of the chimney. Scared the shit out of me.

Slick 27/May/10 AltLd
andy dunn 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with J
wildrover220 18/May/10 AltLd O/S

Climbed at 2nd attempt with Ali, finished as it was getting dark, 5 pitches in 3 hours. Led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches.

benjaminevans 17/May/10 2nd O/S

Quality first multipitch with J leading the way.

with J
nick hawkins 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 3rd pitch as one. Pete finished up morpeus

with peter
halfwaythere 15/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/10 AltLd O/S
royal 03/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climb. Our second climb outdoors after trying some small ones at Sennen last month to learn how to use the ropes and gear. Combined the second and third pitches and found this the hardest part, maybe due to route finding. Spent ages before I realised I'd gone a bit higher than the first traverse and was releaved when I found it! The exposed traverse back across on the fourth pitch was stunning but felt a lot easier than the third despite the guide books grade. Protection for second needed to be thoughtful.

sweenyt 21/Apr/10 AltLd
with Cate
catemuir 21/Apr/10 AltLd

Henry lead pitch 1, 3 and 5, I lead 2 and 4... 1st VS lead! Yay!

Quirina 20/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
R_W_M 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Eleri
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Lev 08/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
gingergeorge 06/Apr/10 Lead
mullermn 05/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Had to bail out after pitch 3 due to failing light. Shame as it was going well. Escaped up Morpheus but missed the line and improvised something far worse.

Kylie 04/Apr/10 2nd dnf

Climbed the first three pitches then bailed out onto Morpheus as it went dark. Didn't climb pitch one or two cleanly.

matt_claydon 05/Mar/10 AltLd β

Returned for the second time this week after abandoning due to darkness a few days earlier. Led P1, P4, P5. Pete led P2&3 as one. Lovely weather, fantastic route with the exception of P5 which I feel is best thought of as part of the descent!

Lil_Pete 05/Mar/10 AltLd β

Am very happy to have ticked this one off; far easier in the daylight, could see my feet and everything. That said, I still went off route and nearly cocked up the traverse, for something pretty easy, I made it look very difficult. Twice!

tommytuffa 04/Mar/10 AltLd

great route, fantastic weather

with chris s
Chris Sansum 04/Mar/10 AltLd rpt

Climbed in an improvised harness made out of slings after forgetting to pack my harness! Tom P1 Chris P2/3 combined, Tom P4, Chris P5

with Tom
matt_claydon 02/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Pete led P1 (maybe wrong line, seemed a bit easy). I led P2+3 as one, struggling to see footholds in the dusk. Pete took a nice swinger off the airy P3 traverse on second with head torch offering little to no help. Very dark by this point so escaped up Morpheus. Nice route, need to get back to do it in one properly.

Lil_Pete 02/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Could have done with being able to see my feet on the traverse, but ended up having to use a headtorch unable to see my feet (and the step down!) after Matt took too long putting protection in ;) needless to say I took the quick route onto Morpheus - all rather exhillerating in the dark!

Hidden 21/Feb/10 AltLd
Chris Sansum 14/Feb/10 Lead rpt

Missed out on the interesting move on P3 after going slightly off route and ascending the VD next to it for the end of P3. I blame it on the hangover!

with Thom Myers
sweenyt 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden ??/2010 -
Cornish Cream ??/2010 2nd
sweenyt ??/2010 AltLd rpt
with UBMC
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
scorpia97 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Paul, Caspian
TR909 ??/2010 Lead
katherinesydney 31/Oct/09 2nd β
Sarah Black 31/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
bsavage 13/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with jon hauser
Chris Sansum 04/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

Speed climbed first couple of pitches as it was getting a bit late. Matt led pitch 5.

with Matt Lunn
Hidden 20/Sep/09 AltLd rpt
jelaby 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Rich led P1, notgnarly led P2, I led P3 and P4 as 1 with only slightly horrendous rope drag. Topped out and got ice cream.

with Richard Hall, notgnarly
PaulWatson 24/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Stunning climb, best of the grade in the gorge. Did in two sessions (completed 17/9/9), using morpheus to escape/gain entry. Led 2 & 4. 1 tough, 2 exciting (the peg at the belay has gone). 3 Amazing line, Exposed for second (care required to avoid a date with Morpheus p3). 4 Really out there, hard moves well protected. 5 nice finish.

with Dan
webs_69 ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Andy White 05/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Retreated from half way up the third pitch as it got dark

with Anna Rothwell
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
ruaidh 17/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Single rope is better for this. Crux pitch is #3, the scary traverse, but not too difficult (4b?). Don't rush, watch your footwork, friends are v. useful. Belay is bomber (use tree, and no1 nut and no6 nut in the crack behind).

with Tom
rh5980 12/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with jh5638
bullwinkle 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1,3,5. Heavy rain on pitches 2 & 3, very wet - interesting! ...

with rossh
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd
tcn_2002 12/May/09 AltLd

Fantastic route

hlegge 12/May/09 AltLd
jh5638 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Will Bellamy
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd dog
thomasadixon 16/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 16/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom
brady 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

superb airy traverse

with Martin Palmer
martinp 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with Steve b
dave1 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Led traverse pitch. Nice and airy

with Alan Clouth
climbingxcat ??/2009 -
Mckenzie 20/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Mckenzie 19/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Hidden 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Protheroe 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 3 and 4

with Douglas Hamilton
Karlos 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Amazing route. Lovely 2/3rd pitch up slanting arete with ballsy traverse (watch for 2nd). 4th pitch feels exposed but ledge is good.

with Ben
Dr Caterpillar 22/Aug/08 AltLd rpt

Led pitches 2 + 3, rained halfway through

with Wayne
sdkoutdoor 07/Aug/08 2nd
with That Guy!
fishinwater ?/Aug/08 2nd
with french Nick
Chris Sansum 27/Jul/08 Lead β
with Gary Lewin
jon bradley 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Nice route - shame about the top pitch. Take money for ice-cream at the top.

with Matt Pearcey
Basey 17/Jul/08 2nd
diggers 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Took in terms to lead, did not climb last two pitches due to running out of time! Great climb, the section just before the traverse at the top of the thrid pitch is a little hard to protect, but not impossilbe! Lower sections are a bit "overgorwn" in places but a pleasent climb over all.

with Cheese
richtea21 ?/Jun/08 -
catemuir ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Calum Smith
Hidden 29/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 21/May/08 Lead rpt

Pitches 1 and 2(3) only, mate hadn't climbed for a while so we missed the (best!) second traverse pitch and finished on the VD.

with Baz
Hidden 12/May/08 AltLd rpt
georgeevans88 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Emily K
martinazando ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with Alex Manlis
haydng 12/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Marti999 09/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Humpty Dangler 30/Mar/08 AltLd rpt

A route that meanders like a drunk trying to find his way home. Led pitches 1,3 + 5. First: surprisingly difficult; hard to protect in places. Second: has the wonderful step out around the arete to the flake. Third: I placed two solid wires high on the left before attempting the low traverse. Should have placed a hex on a long sling in the crack at the right hand side to protect the second from a major pendulum if he'd fallen; will do so next time. Fourth: airy traverse has lost none of its appeal. Fifth: placing a wire in the only available crack and found it to be full of guano was probably not the high point of the route. After that the pitch turns into a muddy scramble to a belay on the railings.

Hidden 06/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Al Franks 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Missed last pitch as it was getting dark and escaped up last pitch of Morpheus

with Claire and Sally Harris
Alasdair88 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Got dark so down-climbed the 4th pitch and climbed up morpheus

with sally harris, Claire
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Spacetourist ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Ed Heslam
georgeevans88 ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Francis
georgeevans88 ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Harry H
thomasadixon 11/Nov/07 AltLd rpt

Done as four pitches, can't see why it's 5 in the guide book. Lead pitches 1,2 and 4. Brilliant route with lots of exposure.

with Bernard
Circus 27/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

pitches 2,3 and 5

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 27/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

pitches 1 and 4. Found the 1st pitch a bit bold but then again I haven't climbed at avon much

with Adam
mol 27/Oct/07 AltLd
with Jesse
Hidden 06/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Humpty Dangler 06/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Wonderful route, varied and exposed in places. Each pitch had something to offer: highlights including the tiptoe out into space on pitch 2, the delicate balancing short traverse on pitch 3 (poorly protected - the only runner placed to stop the second penduluming into the monolith fell out), and the superb 80ft traverse of pitch 4 (very well protected and with good hand-holds, still requires a steady head). Can't wait to come back and do it again.

No-chalk Nailer 06/Oct/07 AltLd

On a single rope too! Nutters ;-)

Jesse Dufton ?/Oct/07 Lead
georgeevans88 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Francis
luke2442 ?/Oct/07 -
Francis Lister ?/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/07 AltLd
Monk 22/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Matt H and AndyA
mullermn 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Good climb, want to lead at some point

with Monkey
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd dnf
taff morley 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S

brilliant climb,best done in the shade!

with josh smith
maybe_si 15/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with charlie
Feeling bold 11/Jul/07 2nd

Good fun with scarey traverse.

with Rich
Hidden 12/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 AltLd
Hidden 20/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
ellentaylor 15/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Crux is on the first pitch getting up onto the overhang/steep face. Need to pull up on left hand crimp balancing first on the slopey ledge. Potential to come off if can't stick it! Lots of traversey bits at the top. Led the last pitch up Puke. Abt 4a with lots of creepy crawlies until it all gets a bit muddy!

with Ollie Mentz
lukehodson 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
chris sm 01/Apr/07 AltLd rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
Chris Sansum 25/Mar/07 Lead
with Weilin Wang
Paz 10/Mar/07 AltLd rpt
with CC
andy mcc ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Graham Coff
mrtom ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
Richard Hall ??/2007 Lead rpt

Have done at least twice before. Got lost again!

with Mark Jackson & Tom Kendrick
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 26/Jul/06 2nd O/S

First outdoor climb not counting top roping. Brilliant.

with steveej
chiverstom 29/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2+4

with Jonny
Hidden 29/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
rotsoscooper 25/Jun/06 AltLd β
with Karen
Hidden 22/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 03/Apr/06 AltLd rpt

John led P4. I led the rest.

with Clare & John
Tom Last ?/Apr/06 AltLd

Karen climbed the first pitch, then I strung the second and third pitch together ran out of gear and had a bit of an epic. Karen took the last pitch but couldn't reach for the gear in the break on the traverse, so she finished up Mobius.

with Karen
Hidden ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
maresia 04/Feb/06 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Noel Duffy
Tamlyn ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead rpt
Albino ??/2006 AltLd
with Dave Frusher
RedFox 19/Nov/05 Lead
with Jon E
bpmclimb 05/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Bux ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Will
Hidden 25/Mar/05 AltLd
Norman_P_W 25/Mar/05 AltLd
with Bob M
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Donald Birchall
charlesmfrench 13/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
with Ian _Haigh
MikeC59 01/Nov/04 Lead
furry ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Marq 21/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy, Paul Smith
Urgles ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
with Paul ???
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Digger 01/Feb/03 2nd dog
with James Latham
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Richard Hall ??/2003 -

Many times

BALD EAGLE 21/Sep/02 Lead
with Bristol Dan
DavidR 15/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Lev 01/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Tom Elliot
Hidden 27/Aug/02 AltLd
Paz 20/Jun/02 AltLd O/S

Before going off to Ashton Court festival.

with SN
MikeC59 08/Jun/02 2nd
Hidden ?/May/02 -
cornishben ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
markysums ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Billg 14/Feb/01 AltLd
with Megan Beaumont
steev ??/2001 -
gimmer ??/2001 -
IceMonkey1982 ??/2001 -
CurlyStevo ??/2001 AltLd
Mickdenali ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Mike Hammil
Hidden 08/Jun/00 AltLd
Boxy 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Izzy
Will Homoky ?/Feb/00 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4.

with Martin (Taunton Leisure)
Hidden ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/May/99 Lead
cliffy ??/1999 AltLd dnf

The traverse didn't appeal so finished up Morpheus.

with Susanne Svendsen
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Jim Brooke 15/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Liz Cant, Rich
jim_randell 31/Mar/98 AltLd rpt
with WW
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
Johnny Rowland 18/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
jim_randell 30/Apr/95 Lead rpt

We did the top pitch of Mobius, to give Grobius.

with NC
jim_randell 26/Jun/94 Lead rpt

A combination route comprising the first three pitches of Gronk (done as two) and the top pitch of Mobius.

with RL, SL
jim_randell 05/Jun/94 AltLd rpt
with FW
jim_randell 12/May/94 AltLd O/S

I led all but the first pitch. By running the two 4b pitches together we completed the route in two hours.

with MS
Hidden 05/Aug/93 AltLd
chris sm 18/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
with Martin Sime
mikej 11/Mar/93 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
leland stamper ?/Apr/89 Lead rpt
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
JamieAyres ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S

the pitch 3 traverse was given 4b then.

with Jude Ayres
leland stamper ??/1984 Solo rpt
leland stamper ?/May/82 Lead O/S

unknown partner

Hidden ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1975 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
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