Chris Ridgers - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with chris
Cracking afternoon out on an Avon classic!
Alex_RhodesUK - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Rob Stanfield
Clay C - AltLd rpt - 06/May/13 with Tom E
Mr-Cowdrey - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with chris ridgers
such a good route. That first pitch does give you that move you have to think about though! Our Ascent https://vimeo.com/65645295
Stanners - Lead rpt - 06/May/13 with Alex Rhodes
HarryB - AltLd rpt - 05/May/13 with Laurence
lead pitches 2,3 and 4 with 2 being strung together
laurence_falconer - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Harry Bloxham
mikeydee135 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Colin Knowles
Led pitch 2 and 4.
wurzelinzummerset - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Ben
Cheese Monkey - AltLd β - 30/Apr/13 with Alan
Slick - AltLd - 30/Apr/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/13
I did P2, 3 + 5. Great route.
localboy - AltLd rpt - 23/Apr/13 with Simon F
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/13
simonf - Lead - 23/Apr/13 with Mike
With dean merchant and anna
brett.mcelwaine - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/13
Lead 1&2 together, with Ana and Brett Seconding.
Dean177 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with brett.mcelwaine
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Martin
mkonca - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with steve gibbs
Slightly dubious in places. Lauren fell on the traverse. Fecking cold!
KitRabbette - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Lauren Ford
LaurenFord - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13
First 3 pitches can be done as one @ 56m long
Kevster - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Gavin
Gavdee1 - 2nd - 02/Mar/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/13
Felt hard for VS.
andy_pemberton - AltLd - 17/Feb/13 with Rik Meek
Move felt tough at 4c but I've not climbed a lot of limestone admittedly
thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Kirsty Marsden
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Andy B
I led 2nd and 4th pitches. Paul led 1st and 3rd pitches
andygb - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Paul Taylor
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Alice
jonbwoy - 2013
steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 2013
led first pitch and the traverse pitch (which in theory is the 4th, practically the 3rd). crux on the first pitch isn't too easy really.
pheotleyr - AltLd rpt - 18/Dec/12 with Dan C
Dan_Carroll - AltLd rpt - 18/Dec/12 with pheotleyr
Another Avon VS off the list! Had avoided this one for a couple of years though as I know someone who had an accident at the top of pitch one. This was the technical crux I thought (hard 4c?), but protectable. Pitches 2 & 3 OK with a few awkward moves, pitch 4, the psychological crux, was a romp as it turned out - Avon at its best. Pitch five was a whimper, not a bang which was a shame.
Bobling - AltLd - 18/Nov/12 with Joe
Lead P1, 3 and 5 (if you can call 5 a pitch) Found P1 a bit tricky at first but a nice climb over all!
bonoid - AltLd - 18/Nov/12 with Bobling
nice climb. toughish start for grade. climbed as two pairs. lovely day
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/12 with ian butterworth, Richard Nadin, David Ford
Thanks to the guys who lent me a jacket after it hammered it down while I was doing the 2nd traverse
steve-grigg - AltLd rpt - 13/Oct/12
Ended up leading the crux traverse 3 times after second didn't fancy doing the technical bit unprotected (swing there if second falls off is nasty). So rigged it up as a backrope and went back to retrieve gear afterwards. On next pitch heavy hail came down just as I was setting off. Retreated back to belay. Luckily it dried off eventually and we finished the route. Nice day out repeating an old classic!
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/12 with Hannah Carter
P2&3. Really good!
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Matt Perks
lead the first 3 pitches, then finished up the easy (Diff?) route next to it as we were taking a long time. Used a pulley rescue system to help one of my seconds up the first pitch.
chris687 - Lead - 06/Oct/12 with si barnby, Ben E
Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with James N
jamesn89 - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with george e
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/12
katherinesydney - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with mike kann
Lead all 5 pitches, tough for a VS but great climbing, some very exposed positions
J.Atkins - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12
Done in 4 pitches, ran 1st 2 together, i lead 1 and 3. went off route slightly on pitch 1 which made it feel really easy, but felt like the more natural line. pitch 2 was scary to second!
Webster - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12
steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with David Webster
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with James S
James S - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with jamie
Bisset - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Phil B
Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with james
completed first pitch and stared second only to see the clouds coming in so moved across to finish on morpheus. next time!
colinkeb - AltLd dnf - 13/Jul/12 with paddy wilson
mallardhealhook - AltLd - 08/Jul/12
Anthony Dixon - Lead - 26/Jun/12
A mini epic with poor routing finding by Dave R and an escape onto the VD at the end of P3. Gronk as ever was fantastic though!
haydng - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Dave R
me p1,p3,p5.chris did 2 and 4.p3 felt higher than vs for the first half as practically unprotected.second half easy climbing with good gear!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with chris Lyness
Pete lead 2,3 (together) & 5. I lead 1st and 4th. Typical Avon route. Read into that what you will.
Dave 88 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Salisbury Pete
It still takes ages even without gear !
Some parts are a bit scary to solo, like the small traverse right and the long traverse left, it actually feels safer to do it the less efficient way and keep your hands in the deep groove along the top which is basically campusable.
Tom Brierley Gore - Solo rpt - 30/May/12
Charlie led P1-3 in one and I led P4 and P5 in one. Did not enjoy the first part as I was feeling dehydrated and a bit dizzy in the heat, and had to aid with the rope for the harder sections. The main traverse pitch is really nice, though! Definitely 4b rather than 4c. Just caught the ice cream van at the top :)
Katherine Ross - 2nd dog - 28/May/12 with Charlie Beard
I linked all pitches before the main traverse. A great outing and a really nice belay as the sun went down
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Katherine Ross
Me P1,3,5 Kylie P2,4.
Finally finished this route after having to abandon it due to dark last time. Did P1 in better style than before - very direct, avoided all routes around the challenging bits. Had surprising trouble on P3 as I tried to traverse across too high, very straightforward once I realised the mistake.
mullermn - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Kylie Richards
Jason wanted to do yet another big multi pitch route so we decided that this was the best choice as far as things around the VS grade go. Jason insisted that we would be able to do it quickly and although we climbed fast it must have still taken at least 2 hours to do all 5 pitches.
Quarryboy - AltLd rpt - 26/May/12 with Jason
ron244 - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Alex George
Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/12
Climbed at 17:00 Good quality rock, great route, fabulous weather
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 23/May/12 with John Volanthen
AndyMcCoy - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Tom
OK, we were both nursing colds, but My Goodness were we slow! Late start due to lazy day didn't help. Finished in the dark.
katherinesydney - AltLd rpt - 19/May/12 with caleb kemics
Pitches 1,3,4,5. A few hard well protected moves. The rest was a scramble. With man flu, 2 stars seems generous?
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Katherine
AM P1,3,5, TB P2,4. My first multi-pitch VS, and a great climb. McCoy did well on the first pitch crux, then the second pitch was a nice step out into space. The 3rd pitch took McCoy a while to work out where to go, and was probably as serious to 2nd when stepping down and out. I really enjoyed the massive traverse on pitch 4, which I laced with gear.
birthers - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Andy McCoy
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 18/May/12 with David Coley
After bailing the bottom crux and going off route last time, I have finally come back and nailed the route. Greate climbing, shame about the last pitch.
Ragingpossum - Lead β - 16/May/12 with Tom Eldridge
Didn't have my trad head on after 5 months without climbing so had a mini epic on the first pitch. All harder than I remember but otherwise fine.
squicky - AltLd dog - 12/May/12 with George
Lead P1-3 cleanly and then bailed onto Morpheus as it got dark. Brilliant exhilarating climbing. Went very high on the traverse on P3 - definitely harder than 4b done that way! My first route in the gorge - will be back for more!
Bonkers Dog - Lead dnf - 06/May/12 with Ali
Managed to work out the crux on P1 - it turns out that taking the guidebook too literally and climbing the vertical crack directly gives a rather harder top out move than the 4c move just to the left. The remainder of the climb took an excellent line and had interest added with the two traverses and an owl toilet on the final pitch.
Staffmeister - Lead β - 02/May/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/12
An interesting night route involving a downpour, cold wet limestone and a nice swing off the face whilst attempting traverse by myself. Finished off on Morpheus but will do this again!
Sam Mitchell - 2nd dnf - 24/Apr/12 with Will Bourne
Went off route on the third pitch by continuing up the left hand corner which was no where near vs 4c so backed off and then finished off up morpheus. Retrieved gear today. Now I know where the route actually goes I will be back as soon as possible, really nice climbing with good protection.
Ragingpossum - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/12 with Sam Mitchell
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12
I led the 1th and 3th picht. Beautifull route! Nice airy traverse. One the best VSs so far!
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Alex Desborough
Couldn't work out the crux on P1, tried pulling over the headwall above the peg half a dozen times but couldn't stick the holds. Escaped to the left and finished up Morpheus.
Staffmeister - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/12
i was happy not to lead the first pitch, lead pitches 2 &3 as one, then 4 as well, very enjoyable
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Todd
Led pitch 1, let Peter do the interesting bits in the middle.
TDembrey - AltLd rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Peter
Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/12
Nice route. Strayed way too high on pitch two, managed to reverse the six or so moves but I would heavily suggest not making the mistake in the first place! Hairy moment. Entertaining and easy traverse.
Voltemands - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Carlene HIll
Slick - AltLd - 10/Mar/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans
Davebryant - Lead - 10/Mar/12 with Matt Hale
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12
strayed a little high on pitch 3, fun/scary alternative but would not have enjoyed that mistake on lead...
Kyle87 - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12
P1 and P5
evhall - AltLd rpt - 19/Feb/12 with goat, Dave F
first pitch only.
mark schramm - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/12 with Lyndsay
Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/12
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Jan/12
Nick Russell - Solo rpt - 21/Jan/12
thomb - AltLd - 14/Jan/12 with Gareth
DorsetGareth - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12 with Tom B
jiggerypokery - Lead rpt - 12/Jan/12 with Mim
saintlade - 2012
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber
gary.earl - Lead - 2012
Eagertom - 2nd - 2012 with Will Bourne
Led 1, 3 & 5
HarryB - AltLd rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Becky
Have done this route a few too many times now!
Led all pitches. Finished direct up overhang.
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Sian Gardiner
Eike - 2nd - 06/Nov/11 with Mike
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11
Lead all. Hardly used protection to save time as it was getting dark and rolled pitches 2 & 3 together.
squicky - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with George
Hidden - Lead - 20/Oct/11
Got drenched in a shower and little bro was in deck shoes so bailed from the top of pitch 3. Downclimbing to someone else's abseil setup in the rain was interesting, but thanks for leaving it all set up! First experience of using a maillon rapide.
squicky - Lead dnf - 19/Oct/11 with George
Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/11
bemdl - AltLd - 09/Oct/11
I think the rightward traverse should be graded 5a
halfwaythere - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/11
finished on morpheus due to getting dark.... still havent done it! haha
jiggerypokery - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/11 with Paul Jones
Gronk. Apt name. Gronk.
Paul D Jones - 06/Oct/11
Wonderful fun, pitch 1 felt hard for 4c. The rest lovely especially the pitch 4 traverse.
pffft - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Jojo Mills
Cracking route. My first introduction to Avon. Found the traverse a bit intimidating to start with
Gary S - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Tom Moat
Good adventurous climbing. Strung pitch 2 & 3 together. Exposed at times but VS about right.
wild_nomad - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11
Always a fun route to do. Beautiful day for it! Finished up Gold Star on P5
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/11
Danny Bags - Lead - 24/Sep/11
nick hawkins - AltLd - 03/Sep/11 with peter
Led the traverse; used small cams a lot (3/4" to 1 1/2 ")
halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with nick hawkins
djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Steve Knaggs
Got gronked the previous day - lost the route on P2, ended up skipping the P3 traverse (Part of Terror Firma or Bastardised, I think) then downclimbing half of P4 and bailing up Morpheus. Repeat attempt much more successful!
Nick Russell - AltLd β - 31/Aug/11
Hard for a 4c, quite bold and unprotected, good climbing and traversing though
matt25 - AltLd - 31/Aug/11
Chris P1, Jeph P2-3 (linked), Chris P4, Jeph P5. Extremely hung over...
Nice display by the Red Arrows as we climbed!
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 14/Aug/11 with Jeph Stewart
Great fun all the way! First pitch was particularly exciting
thomasaneurinsmith - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Katherine Torr
Ffej - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Chris Sansum
i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11
jameslam - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Charlie Thorneycroft
Was meant to climb Morpheus, but got a bit lost. So climbed pitches 2 + 3 of this. Was great fun!
bonoid - Aug/11
luke13 - AltLd - Aug/11 with oli
DOVEY - AltLd - 31/Jul/11 with Billie x
Led pitches 1,3 and 4. Felt knackered reaching the top.
The route features lots of brilliant exposed climbing as well as decent protection and interesting belays I also think its fair at the grade.
Got a bit confused regarding route finding on the 3rd pitch but its fairly obvious, you just have to follow the chalk and the polish.
A great Avon outing!
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with James Rich
What a great route on beautiful day. I did P2 and P5. I agree with the grade although there's no way the traverse pitch is 4c, it's much easier.
JamesRich - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook
ran first two pitches together, led traverse pitch
Betha. - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Neil D
Led P1, P2+3, and final pitch.
Neil D - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Beth Hodgett
1st pitch only
The Pylon King - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/11 with Jack and Rob
Love this route......really enjoyed the traversing!
BB1 - 2nd - 14/Jul/11 with P Ross
Excellent route. Good value for VS.
DL Led P1/P2, P3 & P5. TP Led P4.
fragglerock - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Tom Prince
lukerathmell - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Carl Stubbs
Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Andrew Simpson, Maria Brierley
Not in the groove, so got lowered off to become team photographer.
Feeling bold - 2nd dnf - 29/Jun/11 with Tom
Lead the traverse
fishinwater - Lead - 28/Jun/11
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/11 with luke rathmell
brill, brill, brill - perfect Avon bliss :-) 4 hours of fun in perfect weather with a great friend
jon thompson27 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Ian Woodroe
Led p1, quality pitch. Hammered down whilst belaying so abbed off :(
Cheese Monkey - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/11 with Jason
Nick 'tough old bird, this one'
Mike Kiss - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Nick Hatton
Did the first three pitches and ran pitches 2 & 3 together. I really enjoyed it. Will finish it next time.
BB1 - 2nd - 31/May/11 with P Ross
Got well and truly gronked. got lost, recovered, then slipped on the traverse into no mans land. epic day out
jiggerypokery - 2nd dnf - 29/May/11 with David Proctor, Paul Jones
Lead 1st and 2nd pitch OS, due to time we hade to bail and Paul lead an escape route.
dprctr - Lead dnf - 29/May/11 with Jerome Gill, Paul Jones
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 15/May/11 with Elena Songprasert
cayteye - AltLd O/S - 13/May/11 with Brian Mead
Ran P2 & P3 together. Led all. Didn't get lost this time. It's a great climb!
Dave Ing - Lead rpt - 01/May/11 with Alex
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/May/11
Pbclimbing.com - AltLd O/S - May/11 with henry castle
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Sash
just perfect. Really enjoyable route with some exciting moments. easily a 3 star route for me.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Martin Stanfield
Stanley - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Robster666
Roped solo, led pitches 1&2 fine, then got rushed by a pair who decided to climb the route while I was climbing and backed off pitch 3 after getting lost off route. Will try again as it was fun.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/11
liamoloughlin - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11
Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/11
Slick - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with Kevin Vans-Colina
gingergeorge - Lead - 09/Apr/11 with ben and jonno
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/11
Led P1,3 and 5. good climb. definately one for people who dont mind exposed climbing.
stvredmond - AltLd - 02/Apr/11 with Sean mercer
katherinesydney - 2nd rpt - 02/Apr/11 with jonny kelly
clams - Lead - Apr/11 with NB
webbe01 - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Sam Stokes
Only led 5th pitch but seconded pitches 3 and 4 in the dark - awesome traverse lines. Pitch one the hardest.
suffolknick - AltLd - 25/Mar/11 with clams
Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Mar/11
P1,P2, in the light
P3 in the pitch black
Finished up morpheus
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Antony
Led P2&4, Ali did 1,3 & 5, my first VS
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/11
First 3 pitches of Gronk. Final 2 on Morpheus in the dark
stanante - 2nd dnf - 05/Mar/11 with Jon Warner
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/11
kyle - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/11 with Kate Edhouse
Got lost :(
hutchay - AltLd dnf - Feb/11 with Dave Clover
excellent route. I lead pitchs 1 & 4, Brian strung together 2 & 3, then did the mudslide final pitch. Althought eh pitches I did were supposed to be technically harder, I was extremely glad that I didn't do 2&3 - the route finding is quite hard for them and some of the moves were well scary. The traverse on pitch 4 feels airy & exposed but the holds are good & the gear is bomber.
hms - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/11 with Brian
Helen P1 and 4. Me P2/3 in one, and 5.
bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 18/Jan/11 with Helen S
31770 - 2011
tom.o.prince - 2nd O/S - 2011
fletch73 - 2011
felixizzy - 2011
TDembrey - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/10 with James
Louise fell off halfway up P2/3 (i ran them together) and took a big swing out onto the steep face above the Morpheus belay ledge. With a bit of assistance from the rope she managed to get up the steep wall and make it to the belay. We then decided to escape up the last pitch of Mobius because it was getting dark.
Clay C - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/10 with Louise
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/10
Led the 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Tomar
P2 and p5. Why do I find climbing at this grade at Avon very awkward and not very enjoyable?
Vertigo1 - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/10
3rd Pitch variation, up top of nightcap
Tempest - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with mike kann
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Oct/10
kyle - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10
First pitch awkward, traverse pitch awesome, dave did the rest. First route in 6 weeks, and i felt it.
Sam1991 - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Dave USMC
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10
mattshort - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Alan Murray
haha.....what a fun route and so avon gives me that "what the fuck am i doing here" feeling again!!!!**
brew_guru - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with alex harper
Glad to get back on this one. Loved the traverses.
Shonkhor - 2nd - 08/Oct/10 with Rich
What an epic 4 hours and a fabulous afternoon. P3's traverse was nothing short of spectacular, much nicer than the traverse at the end of P2 towards Morpheus (never been more scared than that traverse!)
Gaijin - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Will
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/10
Yay, done in one go (4 hours), and now led all 5 pitches. Led 1,3,4 this time (3 still scares the c*@p out of me). Dont agree with the guide book technical grades I would say: 4c (or even 5a) 4a 4b 4b 3b, though 3 & 4 are VS leads.
PaulWatson - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Pete
Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Nicola Brankley
Led P2&4. Both took rests on lead attempt on P1, at awkward bulge-mantle-thing. Cate fell, having broken a hold.
aipattison - AltLd dog - 11/Sep/10 with Cate Muir
I lead pitch 1 (well, not really, neither of us could do the move above the peg so nipped round to the left), 3 and 5; Alex lead 2 and 4. I do love this climb :) (except that one move on P1)
catemuir - AltLd - 11/Sep/10 with Alex Pattison
mrrjmcneil - AltLd O/S - Sep/10
Ben lead P1 no problems. I ran P2 and 3 together but accidentally went off route by going up the wrong 'shallow groove' whilst making my way right. Ended up terrified on one of the two E5 routes either side and had a really nasty half an hour down climbing and sorting myself out. The actual route is nice and very obvious once you reach the P3 belay ledge. I think the correct route goes up the left of the large ivy patch and then immediately down over the top of it on the other side. Continue down about 2m to a very obvious ledge where you can then move right and up to the belay.
Ben lead the P4 traverse which would have been really fun had my arms not been giving up after the previous encounter. The crack on the fault line is a bit flaky inside and is also full of shrimp like rock crustaceans which are unpleasant when they get in your face.
Final pitch is more of a scramble at the top leading to a belay off the railings of the park above.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with ben.richards
Brilliant route (apart from the first pitch which was V. run out). Luca ran the second & third pitch together, which had some amazing exposure and delicate climbing I lead P1, P4 (loved the traverse!!) & P5. Route finding through P2 & P3 was a little difficult so study those guide books carefully!!
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Luca Celano
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10
Bailed off onto Morpheus as darkness fell
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Kara
4 & 5 only (Acsessed via Morpheus, on which Muny Cheated !!). 4 is as great to follow as it is to lead, but only the bsort of thing you enjoy after the achievement. 5 is a shame.
PaulWatson - AltLd rpt - 27/Jul/10 with Rosy, Muny
Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10 with James M
paulnc - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10
Felt much less exposed than the last time. Move near the top of P1 above the old peg still feels hard for 4c though!
matt_claydon - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/10 with Rob ?
pitch one is no pushover!
django - Lead dog - 05/Jul/10 with John Rowe
Interesting creatures living in the cracks. I envied their climbing skills where the holds were thin! Led P1 and P4. Some slightly desperate bits on pitch 1 with sparse gear - think I needed to be taller!
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with nb pixel
Peg seems to have gone for 2nd belay- ran 2nd and 3rd pitches together without rope drag issues.
Failed to step down on traverse of 3rd pitch which meant some delicate and sketchy moves.
Have discovered ants are much better at this game than me.
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with DizLiz
Led P1 and P4. Simon strung P2 and P3 together.
simonf - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Simon, Mike
localboy - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Simon C, Simon F
dan ely - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with jon
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10
Quick climb to get warmed up for Suspension Bridge Buttress later on.
Rich P2-3 (linked), 5
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Zoe, Richard Lade
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10
R_W_M - AltLd rpt - 04/Jun/10 with Todd
Slick - Lead - 04/Jun/10
Led pitches 1 & 4, Ran pitches 2 & 3 togehter. Very nice climb
TDembrey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Rob
Led 1st and 4th pitch. Probably the best route ive done in the Gorge!
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Will A
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/10
Weve been Gronked. I backed off P1 after nearly falling from the move by the peg. Will climbed past the peg and fell off some balancy moves. Now getting his heel x-rayed...
Poco Loco - AltLd dnf - 03/Jun/10 with Billy
Came off on moves above peg on 1st pitch. Fractured heel bone. Bummed.
Shonkhor - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with James
Last 2 pitches from the top of the chimney. Scared the shit out of me.
sweenyt - Solo - 27/May/10
Slick - AltLd - 27/May/10
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 21/May/10 with J
Climbed at 2nd attempt with Ali, finished as it was getting dark, 5 pitches in 3 hours. Led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches.
wildrover220 - AltLd O/S - 18/May/10 with Ali Dixon
Quality first multipitch with J leading the way.
benjaminevans - 2nd O/S - 17/May/10 with J
Led 2nd and 3rd pitch as one. Pete finished up morpeus
nick hawkins - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10 with peter
halfwaythere - AltLd - 15/May/10 with nick hawkins
Ian led first 2 pitches of puke - I couldn't find 3rd pitch so did gronk p3 instead
evhall - AltLd O/S - 04/May/10 with Cutts
Great climb. Our second climb outdoors after trying some small ones at Sennen last month to learn how to use the ropes and gear. Combined the second and third pitches and found this the hardest part, maybe due to route finding. Spent ages before I realised I'd gone a bit higher than the first traverse and was releaved when I found it! The exposed traverse back across on the fourth pitch was stunning but felt a lot easier than the third despite the guide books grade. Protection for second needed to be thoughtful.
royal - Lead O/S - 03/May/10
sweenyt - AltLd - 21/Apr/10 with Cate
Henry lead pitch 1, 3 and 5, I lead 2 and 4... 1st VS lead! Yay!
catemuir - AltLd - 21/Apr/10 with Henry Todd
Quirina - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Neil Larsen
Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10
R_W_M - 2nd - 17/Apr/10 with Eleri
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10
Lev - AltLd rpt - 08/Apr/10 with Emma Ross
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/10
gingergeorge - Lead - 06/Apr/10
Had to bail out after pitch 3 due to failing light. Shame as it was going well. Escaped up Morpheus but missed the line and improvised something far worse.
mullermn - Lead dnf - 05/Apr/10 with Kylie Richards
Climbed the first three pitches then bailed out onto Morpheus as it went dark. Didn't climb pitch one or two cleanly.
Kylie - 2nd dnf - 04/Apr/10 with mullermn
Returned for the second time this week after abandoning due to darkness a few days earlier. Led P1, P4, P5. Pete led P2&3 as one. Lovely weather, fantastic route with the exception of P5 which I feel is best thought of as part of the descent!
matt_claydon - AltLd β - 05/Mar/10 with Pete Derrett
Am very happy to have ticked this one off; far easier in the daylight, could see my feet and everything. That said, I still went off route and nearly cocked up the traverse, for something pretty easy, I made it look very difficult. Twice!
Lil_Pete - AltLd β - 05/Mar/10 with Matt Claydon
great route, fantastic weather
tommytuffa - AltLd - 04/Mar/10 with chris s
Climbed in an improvised harness made out of slings after forgetting to pack my harness!
Tom P1 Chris P2/3 combined, Tom P4, Chris P5
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 04/Mar/10 with Tom
Pete led P1 (maybe wrong line, seemed a bit easy). I led P2+3 as one, struggling to see footholds in the dusk. Pete took a nice swinger off the airy P3 traverse on second with head torch offering little to no help. Very dark by this point so escaped up Morpheus. Nice route, need to get back to do it in one properly.
matt_claydon - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/10 with Pete Derrett
Could have done with being able to see my feet on the traverse, but ended up having to use a headtorch unable to see my feet (and the step down!) after Matt took too long putting protection in ;) needless to say I took the quick route onto Morpheus - all rather exhillerating in the dark!
Lil_Pete - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/10 with Matt Claydon
Si lead the two 4c pitches - I'd already done the start before, and he wanted to do the traverse.
Caspar - AltLd - 21/Feb/10 with Simon Reynolds
Missed out on the interesting move on P3 after going slightly off route and ascending the VD next to it for the end of P3. I blame it on the hangover!
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/10 with Thom Myers
sweenyt - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Matt
Hidden - 2010
Cornish Cream - 2nd - 2010
sweenyt - AltLd rpt - 2010 with UBMC
Fred_Richard - Lead - 2010
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Paul, Caspian
TR909 - Lead - 2010
katherinesydney - 2nd β - 31/Oct/09 with mike kann
Sarah Black - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Paul Black
bsavage - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/09 with jon hauser
Speed climbed first couple of pitches as it was getting a bit late. Matt led pitch 5.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Matt Lunn
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Sep/09
Rich led P1, notgnarly led P2, I led P3 and P4 as 1 with only slightly horrendous rope drag. Topped out and got ice cream.
jelaby - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Richard Hall, notgnarly
Stunning climb, best of the grade in the gorge. Did in two sessions (completed 17/9/9), using morpheus to escape/gain entry. Led 2 & 4. 1 tough, 2 exciting (the peg at the belay has gone). 3 Amazing line, Exposed for second (care required to avoid a date with Morpheus p3). 4 Really out there, hard moves well protected. 5 nice finish.
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Dan
webs_69 - 2nd O/S - Aug/09
Retreated from half way up the third pitch as it got dark
Andy White - Lead dnf - 05/Jul/09 with Anna Rothwell
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09
Excellent route. Single rope is better for this.
Crux pitch is #3, the scary traverse, but not too difficult (4b?). Don't rush, watch your footwork, friends are v. useful. Belay is bomber (use tree, and no1 nut and no6 nut in the crack behind).
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/09 with Tom
Led 2nd pitch
rh5980 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/09 with jh5638
Led pitch 1,3,5. Heavy rain on pitches 2 & 3, very wet - interesting! ...
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with rossh
Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/09
tcn_2002 - AltLd - 12/May/09 with Hamish Legge
hlegge - AltLd - 12/May/09 with Thomas Codrington
jh5638 - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Will Bellamy
Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Mar/09
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 16/Mar/09 with Becca
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/09 with Tom
superb airy traverse
brady - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Martin Palmer
Led pitches 1 and 3
martinp - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Steve b
Led traverse pitch. Nice and airy
dave1 - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Alan Clouth
climbingxcat - 2009
Mckenzie - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/08 with Henry
Mckenzie - 2nd O/S - 19/Dec/08 with Henry
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08
Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/08
Lead pitch 3 and 4
Protheroe - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/08 with Douglas Hamilton
Amazing route. Lovely 2/3rd pitch up slanting arete with ballsy traverse (watch for 2nd). 4th pitch feels exposed but ledge is good.
Karlos - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Ben
Led pitches 2 + 3, rained halfway through
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd rpt - 22/Aug/08 with Wayne
sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 07/Aug/08 with That Guy!
fishinwater - 2nd - Aug/08 with french Nick
Chris Sansum - Lead β - 27/Jul/08 with Gary Lewin
Nice route - shame about the top pitch. Take money for ice-cream at the top.
jon bradley - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Matt Pearcey
Basey - 2nd - 17/Jul/08
Took in terms to lead, did not climb last two pitches due to running out of time! Great climb, the section just before the traverse at the top of the thrid pitch is a little hard to protect, but not impossilbe!
Lower sections are a bit "overgorwn" in places but a pleasent climb over all.
diggers - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Cheese
richtea21 - Jun/08
catemuir - 2nd - Jun/08 with Calum Smith
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/08
Pitches 1 and 2(3) only, mate hadn't climbed for a while so we missed the (best!) second traverse pitch and finished on the VD.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 21/May/08 with Baz
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/May/08
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Emily K
martinazando - 2nd O/S - May/08 with Alex Manlis
haydng - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/08 with Rachel
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/08 with Mark Glaister
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/08
A route that meanders like a drunk trying to find his way home. Led pitches 1,3 + 5. First: surprisingly difficult; hard to protect in places. Second: has the wonderful step out around the arete to the flake. Third: I placed two solid wires high on the left before attempting the low traverse. Should have placed a hex on a long sling in the crack at the right hand side to protect the second from a major pendulum if he'd fallen; will do so next time. Fourth: airy traverse has lost none of its appeal. Fifth: placing a wire in the only available crack and found it to be full of guano was probably not the high point of the route. After that the pitch turns into a muddy scramble to a belay on the railings.
Humpty Dangler - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/08 with Jordan Lane
Messners Yeti - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/08 with Francis
Missed last pitch as it was getting dark and escaped up last pitch of Morpheus
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Claire and Sally Harris
Got dark so down-climbed the 4th pitch and climbed up morpheus
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08 with sally harris, Claire
daveagriff - Lead - 2008
Spacetourist - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Francis
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Harry H
Done as four pitches, can't see why it's 5 in the guide book. Lead pitches 1,2 and 4. Brilliant route with lots of exposure.
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 11/Nov/07 with Bernard
pitches 2,3 and 5
Circus - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Loz
pitches 1 and 4. Found the 1st pitch a bit bold but then again I haven't climbed at avon much
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Adam
mol - AltLd - 27/Oct/07 with Jesse
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/07
Wonderful route, varied and exposed in places. Each pitch had something to offer: highlights including the tiptoe out into space on pitch 2, the delicate balancing short traverse on pitch 3 (poorly protected - the only runner placed to stop the second penduluming into the monolith fell out), and the superb 80ft traverse of pitch 4 (very well protected and with good hand-holds, still requires a steady head). Can't wait to come back and do it again.
Humpty Dangler - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/07 with John Ricketts
On a single rope too! Nutters ;-)
No-chalk Nailer - AltLd - 06/Oct/07 with Humpty Dangler
Jesse Dufton - Lead - Oct/07
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Francis
luke2442 - Oct/07
Francis Lister - 2nd - Oct/07 with george evans
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Sep/07
Monk - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Matt H and AndyA
Good climb, want to lead at some point
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Monkey
Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/07
Hidden - AltLd dnf - Sep/07
brilliant climb,best done in the shade!
taff morley - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07 with josh smith
maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/07 with charlie
Good fun with scarey traverse.
Feeling bold - 2nd - 11/Jul/07 with Rich
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/07
Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/07
Crux is on the first pitch getting up onto the overhang/steep face. Need to pull up on left hand crimp balancing first on the slopey ledge. Potential to come off if can't stick it! Lots of traversey bits at the top. Led the last pitch up Puke. Abt 4a with lots of creepy crawlies until it all gets a bit muddy!
ellentaylor - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Ollie Mentz
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07 with Andrew Bitmead
chris sm - AltLd rpt - 01/Apr/07 with Pippa Froggatt
Chris Sansum - Lead - 25/Mar/07 with Weilin Wang
Paz - AltLd rpt - 10/Mar/07 with CC
andy mcc - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Graham Coff
mrtom - AltLd O/S - 2007
Matt Tranter - 2007
Have done at least twice before. Got lost again!
Richard Hall - Lead rpt - 2007 with Mark Jackson & Tom Kendrick
Stone Muppet - 2007
Hidden - Sep/06
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/06
First outdoor climb not counting top roping. Brilliant.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/06 with steveej
Lead pitches 2+4
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/06 with Jonny
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/06
rotsoscooper - AltLd β - 25/Jun/06 with Karen
Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Jun/06
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Jun/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06
John led P4. I led the rest.
bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 03/Apr/06 with Clare & John
Karen climbed the first pitch, then I strung the second and third pitch together ran out of gear and had a bit of an epic. Karen took the last pitch but couldn't reach for the gear in the break on the traverse, so she finished up Mobius.
Southern Man - AltLd - Apr/06 with Karen
Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/06
maresia - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/06 with Mike Kann
mike kann - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Noel Duffy
Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 2006
Bern - 2006
John Lisle - 2006
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 2006
Albino - AltLd - 2006 with Dave Frusher
RedFox - Lead - 19/Nov/05 with Jon E
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/05 with Clare
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05
Bux - Lead rpt - Aug/05 with Will
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/05
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/05
tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005
phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Donald Birchall
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/04 with Ian _Haigh
MikeC59 - Lead - 01/Nov/04
furry - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Neil
Marq - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/04 with Daniel Dennehy, Paul Smith
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Feb/04 with Paul ???
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03
Digger - 2nd dog - 01/Feb/03 with James Latham
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Richard Hall - 2003
BALD EAGLE - Lead - 21/Sep/02 with Bristol Dan
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/02 with Jemma Wadham
Lev - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/02 with Tom Elliot
evhall - AltLd - 27/Aug/02 with jerzy
Before going off to Ashton Court festival.
Paz - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/02 with SN
Hidden - May/02
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Andy Connor
markysums - 2002
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01
Billg - AltLd - 14/Feb/01 with Megan Beaumont
steev - 2001
gimmer - 2001
IceMonkey1982 - 2001
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2001
Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 2001 with Mike Hammil
Boxy - Lead O/S - 01/May/00 with Izzy
Lead P2 and P4.
Will Homoky - AltLd O/S - Feb/00 with Martin (Taunton Leisure)
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - Lead - May/99
The traverse didn't appeal so finished up Morpheus.
cliffy - AltLd dnf - 1999 with Susanne Svendsen
Hidden - Lead - 1999
Jim Brooke - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/98 with Liz Cant, Rich
jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 31/Mar/98 with WW
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98
loundsy - Lead O/S - 1998
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 1996
We did the top pitch of Mobius, to give Grobius.
jim_randell - Lead rpt - 30/Apr/95 with NC
A combination route comprising the first three pitches of Gronk (done as two) and the top pitch of Mobius.
jim_randell - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/94 with RL, SL
jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 05/Jun/94 with FW
I led all but the first pitch. By running the two 4b pitches together we completed the route in two hours.
jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 12/May/94 with MS
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/93
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/93 with Martin Sime
Hidden - 1990
the pitch 3 traverse was given 4b then.
JamieAyres - Lead O/S - Jul/86 with Jude Ayres
Hidden - 1982
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1975
Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973
Hidden - AltLd - 1966