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5b Wall E3 5c

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[Me and my shadow, 5b wall, Sea wall area, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]Wall to the right of the Floating Voter arete groove. Start on polished crimps, and climb to larger holds with larger moves between them, trending first slightly right, then back left for the final moves out to the top of the left arete. The crux is at the top, and is much easier for the tall, but the holds have grown and lost their polish by that point.
c.1970s 1975

Photo: Me and my shadow, 5b wall, Sea wall area, Avon Gorge © Emily Goodman
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo dnf - 30/Jun/14

Hidden - Solo dnf - 23/May/14

The polish doesn't get less, but you don't notice it as much on the bigger holds. Trended left to the arete then rocked up into Floating Voter.
Nick Russell - Solo O/S - 17/May/14 with Alex Winter

Steady. Watched Nick do it first.
Alex Winter - Solo β - 17/May/14 with Nick

bpmclimb - TR O/S - 16/May/14 with Shunt

Rick hard Rock - Solo rpt - 10/May/14

Watched Remus do it and then followed suit
Jack_F - Solo β - 25/Apr/14 with Remus

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Apr/14

Once I realised it went steeply left it was great
Cheese Monkey - TR RP - 27/Mar/14 with Shunt

Cheese Monkey - TR rpt - 27/Mar/14 with Shunt

Monk - TR O/S - 22/Feb/14

Neil - Solo - 2014

I would say this, not Jasper, is the most polished route in the Gorge. Defeated by the polish and the dust.
squicky - 2nd dnf - 01/Jul/13 with Ben

Rick hard Rock - Solo rpt - 15/Feb/13

Nice little wall, if it wasnt as polished it would be ace but still a good little solo, really nice moves off the juggy flake to the arete via that cool rail.
Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Andy

Neil Morbey - TR - 09/Nov/12

akhughes - Solo - 20/Jun/12

polished to death
pheotleyr - TR O/S - 16/May/12

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - TR O/S - 20/Feb/12 with Steph

colesy - Solo β - 09/Jan/12

Rick hard Rock - Solo rpt - 13/Oct/11

Bouldered the start a couple of times, then did it on a top rope because it was raining. Will give the solo a go next time :)
Stanley - TR O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Cragking

Direct with a very long reach. Can't believe I managed to do the moves considering the amount of polish and then dusting of mud covering some of the holds. I'll be having another crack to do this clean and then maybe lead once I've had my brave pills.
maresia - TR dog - 29/Jun/11 with Tim Sanders

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/11

So dam hardcore, had a quick play on a shunt then ate some lunch and had a moment of total psyche. Decided to go for it. Total relief came over me when I grabbed the top jug followed by "F*ck I just soloed an E3"
Quarryboy - Solo rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Rob Stanfield

sveet. good job crux is nice and low. practised a bit on a top rope before hand.
Stanners - Solo RP - 09/Apr/11 with Jack Bradbrook

suffolknick - TR RP - 08/Apr/11

Richard Hall - Solo β - 22/Nov/10 with Chris Savage

Rick hard Rock - Solo rpt - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Oct/10

Marti999 - Solo O/S - 09/Sep/10

Ally Smith - Sent - Aug/10

Found the leftward finish easy this time - the rest was still hard though. Lots of tough 5b moves in a row? Tried the route again with the harder direct finish, but didn't get it this time. The crucial undercut has an unnerving wobble.
crossdressingrodney - TR RP - 27/Jul/10 with Julian

Crux is at the top, reaching for the undercut (and holding it!). First time I escaped slightly leftwards.
crossdressingrodney - TR dog - 19/Jul/10 with Julian

Hidden - TR rpt - 27/Apr/10

Wet and Polish do not work well together, would be scary lead but the landing isn't too bad and if you have a good spotter...
skittles - TR RP - 29/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Terrapin Man - TR O/S - 14/Oct/09

Sandy Holford - Lead RP - 28/Jul/09 with Pete Tecks

Anthony Allsopp - TR O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Sandy Holford

Paz - Solo rpt - 02/May/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Mar/08

Top roped the thing to the right again too - feels more and more mental the more I think of soloing it.
Paz - Solo rpt - 07/Mar/08

Ian Parnell - Solo β - 28/Nov/07

Hidden - TR RP - 05/Sep/07

Had a thorough play on the dirty brown wall to the right, which is currently giving me food for thought.
Paz - TR - 11/Jun/07 with TS2, TE2

Paz - Solo rpt - 01/Feb/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Jan/07

Hidden - TR - 08/Oct/06

Paz - Solo rpt - 09/Sep/06

It -does- go, a bit more direct to the usual place without the sidepull near the arete but it's a bit stretched out for 5c!
Paz - Solo rpt - 06/Jun/06 with RJ

What is this doing at this grade? I don't think even polish justifies it, and would give it closer to E1 5b (very soft E2 perhaps). Yes, it's a 10m unprotectable wall with the crux right at the top, but a solid E1 leader should not be able to simply walk up an E3 5c. This never felt scary.
Pythonist - Solo O/S - 22/Apr/06

phsharpy - Solo β - 06/Mar/06 with Alex Barrows

Hidden - Solo β - 08/Feb/06

mike kann - TR dog - 2006 with Matt Bengy

A Longleat Boulderer - Solo β - 2006 with Ally Smith

Marcus - 2006

Greg Pittam - TR β - 08/Oct/05

Was showing someone how to do the first couple of moves and ended up halfway up the route. Was persuaded to finish.
Lev - Solo rpt - 06/Oct/02

Lev - TR RP - 05/Oct/02

Solo'd on my tod at the third try after cycling over from Bath. Never worked out that it moves left until now but am quite relieved that I never tried the direct as it's a 6b dyno apparently.
Paz - Solo O/S - Sep/02

Andrew1 - TR - 21/Apr/01 with Martin Carter

Hidden - 2000

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 20/Nov/99

The first moves are terrible and the crux is a stretch from polished holds. Not in the same league as 5b Groove
KRB - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/99

Ally Smith - 1999

chris sm - TR RP - 15/Jun/93 with Martin Sime

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/90

ChrisJD - TR - 16/Oct/88

mark-abz - TR - 05/Mar/88 with Andy W

Pete Nugent - TR - 27/Oct/85 with Paul Castleton

John Marsland - TR - 01/Sep/85

JamieAyres - TR RP - Aug/85 with Graham Aveyard

Ena - TR - May/85

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/Apr/79

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Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E40 of 14
E40 of 14
easy E40 of 14
hard E30 of 14
E34 of 14
easy E35 of 14
hard E25 of 14
E20 of 14
easy E20 of 14
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c5 of 16
easy 5c1 of 16
hard 5b9 of 16
5b1 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars0 of 16
2 Stars0 of 16
1 Star8 of 16
0 Stars7 of 16
Bag of .....1 of 16
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Style of ascent

Soloed34 of 77 (44.2%)
Lead1 of 77 (1.3%)
Followed2 of 77 (2.6%)
Toproped33 of 77 (42.9%)
Bouldered1 of 77 (1.3%)
Unknown6 of 77 (7.8%)

'Climbed'19 of 77 (24.7%)
clean O/S20 of 77 (26.0%)
clean β9 of 77 (11.7%)
clean rpt13 of 77 (16.9%)
clean RP10 of 77 (13.0%)
dogged3 of 77 (3.9%)
dnf3 of 77 (3.9%)