Wall to the right of the Floating Voter arete groove. Start on polished crimps, and climb to larger holds with larger moves between them, trending first slightly right, then back left for the final moves out to the top of the left arete. The crux is at the top, and is much easier for the tall, but the holds have grown and lost their polish by that point.

c.1970s 1975

Ricky Rocks 12/Mar Solo rpt
JoeE 18/Jan TR

Lovely crack further up

with Mr Shunt
Hidden 07/Oct/14 TR
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Solo dnf
Hidden 23/May/14 Solo dnf
Nick Russell 17/May/14 Solo O/S

The polish doesn't get less, but you don't notice it as much on the bigger holds. Trended left to the arete then rocked up into Floating Voter.

Alex Winter 17/May/14 Solo β

Steady. Watched Nick do it first.

with Nick
bpmclimb 16/May/14 TR O/S
with Shunt
Ricky Rocks 10/May/14 Solo rpt
Jack_F 25/Apr/14 Solo β

Watched Remus do it and then followed suit

with Remus
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Cheese Monkey 27/Mar/14 TR RP

Once I realised it went steeply left it was great

with Shunt
Cheese Monkey 27/Mar/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
Monk 22/Feb/14 TR O/S
Neil ??/2014 Solo
squicky 01/Jul/13 2nd dnf

I would say this, not Jasper, is the most polished route in the Gorge. Defeated by the polish and the dust.

with Ben
Ricky Rocks 15/Feb/13 Solo rpt
Mike Goldthorp 15/Nov/12 Solo O/S

Nice little wall, if it wasnt as polished it would be ace but still a good little solo, really nice moves off the juggy flake to the arete via that cool rail.

with Andy
Neil Morbey 09/Nov/12 TR
akhughes 20/Jun/12 Solo
pheotleyr 16/May/12 TR O/S

polished to death

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Feb/12 TR O/S
with Steph
colesy 09/Jan/12 Solo β
Ricky Rocks 13/Oct/11 Solo rpt
Stanley 12/Aug/11 TR O/S

Bouldered the start a couple of times, then did it on a top rope because it was raining. Will give the solo a go next time :)

with Cragking
maresia 29/Jun/11 TR dog

Direct with a very long reach. Can't believe I managed to do the moves considering the amount of polish and then dusting of mud covering some of the holds. I'll be having another crack to do this clean and then maybe lead once I've had my brave pills.

with Tim Sanders
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Quarryboy 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt

So dam hardcore, had a quick play on a shunt then ate some lunch and had a moment of total psyche. Decided to go for it. Total relief came over me when I grabbed the top jug followed by "F*ck I just soloed an E3"

Stanners 09/Apr/11 Solo RP

sveet. good job crux is nice and low. practised a bit on a top rope before hand.

suffolknick 08/Apr/11 TR RP
Richard Hall 22/Nov/10 Solo β
with Chris Savage
Ricky Rocks 24/Oct/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 16/Oct/10 TR O/S
Marti999 09/Sep/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Sent
crossdressingrodney 27/Jul/10 TR RP

Found the leftward finish easy this time - the rest was still hard though. Lots of tough 5b moves in a row? Tried the route again with the harder direct finish, but didn't get it this time. The crucial undercut has an unnerving wobble.

with Julian
crossdressingrodney 19/Jul/10 TR dog

Crux is at the top, reaching for the undercut (and holding it!). First time I escaped slightly leftwards.

with Julian
Hidden 27/Apr/10 TR rpt
skittles 29/Mar/10 TR RP

Wet and Polish do not work well together, would be scary lead but the landing isn't too bad and if you have a good spotter...

Hidden ??/2010 -
Terrapin Man 14/Oct/09 TR O/S
Sandy Holford 28/Jul/09 Lead RP
with Pete Tecks
Anthony Allsopp 22/Mar/09 TR O/S
with Sandy Holford
Paz 02/May/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/08 TR O/S
Paz 07/Mar/08 Solo rpt

Top roped the thing to the right again too - feels more and more mental the more I think of soloing it.

Ian Parnell 28/Nov/07 Solo β
Hidden 05/Sep/07 TR RP
Paz 11/Jun/07 TR

Had a thorough play on the dirty brown wall to the right, which is currently giving me food for thought.

with TS2, TE2
Paz 01/Feb/07 Solo rpt
Oli 31/Jan/07 Solo O/S
with Ally
Hidden 08/Oct/06 TR
Paz 09/Sep/06 Solo rpt
Paz 06/Jun/06 Solo rpt

It -does- go, a bit more direct to the usual place without the sidepull near the arete but it's a bit stretched out for 5c!

with RJ
Pythonist 22/Apr/06 Solo O/S

What is this doing at this grade? I don't think even polish justifies it, and would give it closer to E1 5b (very soft E2 perhaps). Yes, it's a 10m unprotectable wall with the crux right at the top, but a solid E1 leader should not be able to simply walk up an E3 5c. This never felt scary.

phsharpy 06/Mar/06 Solo β
with Alex Barrows
Hidden 08/Feb/06 Solo β
beardy mike ??/2006 TR dog
with Matt Bengy
A Longleat Boulderer ??/2006 Solo β
with Ally Smith
Marcus ??/2006 -
Greg Pittam 08/Oct/05 TR β
Lev 06/Oct/02 Solo rpt

Was showing someone how to do the first couple of moves and ended up halfway up the route. Was persuaded to finish.

Lev 05/Oct/02 TR RP
Paz ?/Sep/02 Solo O/S

Solo'd on my tod at the third try after cycling over from Bath. Never worked out that it moves left until now but am quite relieved that I never tried the direct as it's a 6b dyno apparently.

Andrew1 21/Apr/01 TR
with Martin Carter
Hidden ??/2000 -
John Southworth 20/Nov/99 Solo O/S
KRB 07/Oct/99 Solo O/S

The first moves are terrible and the crux is a stretch from polished holds. Not in the same league as 5b Groove

Hidden ??/1999 -
serby ??/1999 Lead
chris sm 15/Jun/93 TR RP
with Martin Sime
Phil Ingle 22/May/90 2nd
Hidden 16/Oct/88 TR
mark-abz 05/Mar/88 TR
with Andy W
Pete Nugent 27/Oct/85 TR
with Paul Castleton
John Marsland 01/Sep/85 TR
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 TR RP
with Graham Aveyard
Ena ?/May/85 TR
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden 09/Apr/79 TR O/S
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