Rockfax Description
Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious-looking flake.
1) 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.
2) 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.
3) 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5c, 6a, 5c

S Monks (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin (XS A5!) 2/May/1971) (E Hart, Ms A Hart (2 pts aid) 1974) 1979

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E4 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
ollie_e 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great route - I led pitch 2. Pitch 3 is where the money is, fantastic climbing. Great lead from Charlie. Keep an eye out for the big thread on the edge of the roof, above the belay ledge on pitch 2 - I missed this and had a very uncomfortable stance to deal with for an hour or so. 3 star experience.

with Charlie
Chubbard 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Very good. First pitch less bold than expected. Top pitch more bold.

with Ollie
Nick Russell 30/May/15 AltLd O/S

Got to be up there with the best routes in the gorge - phenomenal third pitch! The crux on P2 is pretty steady if you send your partner up first to figure out where all the holds are. I led P3; Alex P1,2.

Alex Winter 30/May/15 AltLd O/S

Finally got on it, nearly three years after arriving in Bristol. An amazing urban adventure. Got P1 and P2, Nick P3. Some cheesy stuff on the first pitch. Got the cheeky inverted Rock 6 in the old borehole, and it felt safe enough. Spent bloody ages trying to find the right holds at the beginning of the second pitch; by the time I'd sussed it out (actually fairly steady) I was completely knacked, and nearly peeled off a few moves from the belay while excavating a peg from its carapace of dirt and cobweb. Final pitch is great; sustained, but steady enough to hang around a bit and enjoy the view. Had a well-deserved ice cream at the top.

with Nick
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/Mar/14 AltLd dog

used the spike as aid on P2. Shame on me.

with max
Joughton 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I led the first and second pitches, which both felt pretty tough, especially the start of the second. Dad led the top pitch which looked well scary, the rock was pretty dodgy.

Aaron Lines 30/Nov/12 AltLd

Led p1 and 3. Rested on a peg on P3! Now have to come back and do it again

thomasadixon 01/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

p1 & 2 only, rain stopped play for the last pitch. Pretty chuffed to manage lassoing the spike on the 2nd. Damn cool climb.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 01/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

(p1&2 only) I led p1, Tom led p2. Escaped from p3 because of very heavy shower, can't wait to go back. Peg on p1 is a little unnerving!

with Tom
Ed Babs 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Great fun. There is a peg at the borehole on P1, although it flexes a bit. Butterfly assisted ascent.

Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd
pezzerrr 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
colesy 12/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

I lead P1+3, Oli lead P2.

danp 18/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3. Folded over no 6ish nut is pretty solid placed in the hole where the spike and sling used to be on pitch 1. Still feels a bit scary though.

richiebongo 18/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 2, Dan lead pitch 1 & 3. The crux on pitch 2 felt more like 5c to me.

with Dan Perrot
frank ramsay 22/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Rained off pitch 3. Pitch 1 is pretty bold on the crux, with marginal RP's. Good gear lower down though - but it would be a long fall. I might try and replace the peg this summer.

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 22/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

rained off P3

Hidden 17/Apr/11 TR dog
msoldn 17/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Jason led pitch 1 up to where the peg & sling were supposed to be, but now no more, half peg still in crack, rest is gonne (must have been one massif whipper; only wish that that someone would have put a note on UKC letting others know about it, rather than forcing those who follow into dodgy rappels of rusty steel spikes!). I ended up climbing pitch 1 of Yellow Edge, Jason then did a dusty hand-travers to the belay on Amanita and carried on with pitch 2 from there, taking on gear at the crux move by the peg and sling. I just about managed to get the crux clean on second and led pitch 3, which definitely is the money pitch of this route, wild and exhilerating, with plenty of pump and just enough rest positions to get you through. Very happy to finally have done this one!

with Jason
Hidden 17/Sep/10 AltLd dog
dan gibson 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with sam read
Ricky Rocks 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

did p2 and p3 in one. Really nice, long and pumpy.

Paz 25/Oct/08 AltLd rpt

Just lead P1; felt bolder than I remembered. P3 was scrittier than I remembered. It was a close run thing getting up just before dark.

with GD
IceMonkey1982 20/Jul/08 -

Top pitch only

Billg 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
Paz 02/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (6a). Took the new 5c finish above the ramp (light drizzle).

with BM
Hidden 01/May/05 2nd rpt
_m.cox_ ?/May/05 Lead O/S
cornishben ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Max Dutson
Hidden 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/99 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
Hidden 30/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
AndySL ??/1994 2nd O/S
with Tim
Derek Ryden ?/Aug/92 2nd O/S
with Paul Twomey
Pete Ogden ??/1990 AltLd
with Simon Kemp
charlesmfrench 20/Nov/88 AltLd O/S

2,L,2.

with Ian Milne
keefe 21/Aug/88 -
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/87 AltLd
bullybones ??/1987 Lead β
Mike Owen 24/Jul/85 -
with Simon King
stp 27/Aug/83 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 3.

andy gittins ??/1983 -
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 AltLd
steve L 21/May/80 AltLd
with Pat
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Kipper-Phil Smith, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, andy dunn, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set