Amanita Muscarina*** E4 6a
[Amanita Muscarina, Exploading Galexy Wall, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious-looking flake.
1) 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.
2) 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.
3) 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
5c, 6a, 5c

S Monks (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin (XS A5!) 2/May/1971) (E Hart, Ms A Hart (2 pts aid) 1974) 1979

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Photo: Amanita Muscarina, Exploading Galexy Wall, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
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This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Great route - I led pitch 2. Pitch 3 is where the money is, fantastic climbing. Great lead from Charlie. Keep an eye out for the big thread on the edge of the roof, above the belay ledge on pitch 2 - I missed this and had a very uncomfortable stance to deal with for an hour or so. 3 star experience.
ollie_e - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/15 with Charlie

Very good. First pitch less bold than expected. Top pitch more bold.
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/15 with Ollie

Got to be up there with the best routes in the gorge - phenomenal third pitch! The crux on P2 is pretty steady if you send your partner up first to figure out where all the holds are. I led P3; Alex P1,2.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15 with Alex Winter

Finally got on it, nearly three years after arriving in Bristol. An amazing urban adventure. Got P1 and P2, Nick P3. Some cheesy stuff on the first pitch. Got the cheeky inverted Rock 6 in the old borehole, and it felt safe enough. Spent bloody ages trying to find the right holds at the beginning of the second pitch; by the time I'd sussed it out (actually fairly steady) I was completely knacked, and nearly peeled off a few moves from the belay while excavating a peg from its carapace of dirt and cobweb. Final pitch is great; sustained, but steady enough to hang around a bit and enjoy the view. Had a well-deserved ice cream at the top.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15 with Nick

used the spike as aid on P2. Shame on me.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd dog - 08/Mar/14 with max

I led the first and second pitches, which both felt pretty tough, especially the start of the second. Dad led the top pitch which looked well scary, the rock was pretty dodgy.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Led p1 and 3. Rested on a peg on P3! Now have to come back and do it again
Aaron Lines - AltLd - 30/Nov/12 with frank ramsay

p1 & 2 only, rain stopped play for the last pitch. Pretty chuffed to manage lassoing the spike on the 2nd. Damn cool climb.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/12 with Becca

(p1&2 only) I led p1, Tom led p2. Escaped from p3 because of very heavy shower, can't wait to go back. Peg on p1 is a little unnerving!
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/12 with Tom

Great fun. There is a peg at the borehole on P1, although it flexes a bit. Butterfly assisted ascent.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Matt Perks

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/12

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12

I lead P1+3, Oli lead P2.
colesy - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/11

pitch 1 and 3. Folded over no 6ish nut is pretty solid placed in the hole where the spike and sling used to be on pitch 1. Still feels a bit scary though.
danp - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/11

I lead pitch 2, Dan lead pitch 1 & 3. The crux on pitch 2 felt more like 5c to me.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/11 with Dan Perrot

Rained off pitch 3. Pitch 1 is pretty bold on the crux, with marginal RP's. Good gear lower down though - but it would be a long fall. I might try and replace the peg this summer.
frank ramsay - AltLd dnf - 22/Jul/11 with Aaron

rained off P3
Aaron Lines - AltLd dnf - 22/Jul/11 with frank ramsay

Hidden - TR dog - 17/Apr/11

Jason led pitch 1 up to where the peg & sling were supposed to be, but now no more, half peg still in crack, rest is gonne (must have been one massif whipper; only wish that that someone would have put a note on UKC letting others know about it, rather than forcing those who follow into dodgy rappels of rusty steel spikes!). I ended up climbing pitch 1 of Yellow Edge, Jason then did a dusty hand-travers to the belay on Amanita and carried on with pitch 2 from there, taking on gear at the crux move by the peg and sling. I just about managed to get the crux clean on second and led pitch 3, which definitely is the money pitch of this route, wild and exhilerating, with plenty of pump and just enough rest positions to get you through. Very happy to finally have done this one!
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Jason

Hidden - AltLd dog - 17/Sep/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with sam read

did p2 and p3 in one. Really nice, long and pumpy.
Ricky Rocks - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09

Just lead P1; felt bolder than I remembered. P3 was scrittier than I remembered. It was a close run thing getting up just before dark.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 25/Oct/08 with GD

Top pitch only
IceMonkey1982 - 20/Jul/08

Billg - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Bob Brewer

Lead P2 (6a). Took the new 5c finish above the ramp (light drizzle).
Paz - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/05 with BM

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/May/05

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - May/05 with Ben West

cornishben - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Max Dutson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/99

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/95

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 1994 with Tim

Derek Ryden - 2nd O/S - Aug/92 with Paul Twomey

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990 with Simon Kemp

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/88 with Ian Milne

keefe - 21/Aug/88

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/87

bullybones - Lead β - 1987

Mike Owen - 24/Jul/85 with Simon King

Lead pitches 2 and 3.
stp - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/83

andy gittins - 1983

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - AltLd - 1981

steve L - AltLd - 21/May/80 with Pat

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andy dunn

Total votes cast 51
hard E50 of 18
E50 of 18
easy E50 of 18
hard E41 of 18
E415 of 18
easy E42 of 18
hard E30 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E30 of 18
hard 6b0 of 18
6b0 of 18
easy 6b0 of 18
hard 6a5 of 18
6a9 of 18
easy 6a2 of 18
hard 5c2 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
3 Stars11 of 15
2 Stars4 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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