Avon > Avon Gorge (Sea Walls) >
 
Amanita Muscarina*** E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Unknown Pleasures (Final Pitch)
 
Psychopath Way >>
[Amanita Muscarina, Exploading Galexy Wall, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious-looking flake.. 1) 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.. 2) 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.. 3) 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges. © ROCKFAX
5c, 6a, 5c
S Monks (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin (XS A5!) 2/May/1971) (E Hart, Ms A Hart (2 pts aid) 1974) 1979

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Amanita Muscarina, Exploading Galexy Wall, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 43 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

used the spike as aid on P2. Shame on me.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd dog - 08/Mar/14 with max

I led the first and second pitches, which both felt pretty tough, especially the start of the second. Dad led the top pitch which looked well scary, the rock was pretty dodgy.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Led p1 and 3. Rested on a peg on P3! Now have to come back and do it again
Aaron Lines - AltLd - 30/Nov/12 with frank ramsay

p1 & 2 only, rain stopped play for the last pitch. Pretty chuffed to manage lassoing the spike on the 2nd. Damn cool climb.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/12 with Becca

(p1&2 only) I led p1, Tom led p2. Escaped from p3 because of very heavy shower, can't wait to go back. Peg on p1 is a little unnerving!
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/12 with Tom

Great fun. There is a peg at the borehole on P1, although it flexes a bit. Butterfly assisted ascent.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Matt Perks

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/12

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12

I lead P1+3, Oli lead P2.
colesy - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/11

pitch 1 and 3. Folded over no 6ish nut is pretty solid placed in the hole where the spike and sling used to be on pitch 1. Still feels a bit scary though.
danp - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/11

I lead pitch 2, Dan lead pitch 1 & 3. The crux on pitch 2 felt more like 5c to me.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/11 with Dan Perrot

Rained off pitch 3. Pitch 1 is pretty bold on the crux, with marginal RP's. Good gear lower down though - but it would be a long fall. I might try and replace the peg this summer.
frank ramsay - AltLd dnf - 22/Jul/11 with Aaron

rained off P3
Aaron Lines - AltLd dnf - 22/Jul/11 with frank ramsay

Hidden - TR dog - 17/Apr/11

Jason led pitch 1 up to where the peg & sling were supposed to be, but now no more, half peg still in crack, rest is gonne (must have been one massif whipper; only wish that that someone would have put a note on UKC letting others know about it, rather than forcing those who follow into dodgy rappels of rusty steel spikes!). I ended up climbing pitch 1 of Yellow Edge, Jason then did a dusty hand-travers to the belay on Amanita and carried on with pitch 2 from there, taking on gear at the crux move by the peg and sling. I just about managed to get the crux clean on second and led pitch 3, which definitely is the money pitch of this route, wild and exhilerating, with plenty of pump and just enough rest positions to get you through. Very happy to finally have done this one!
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Jason

Hidden - AltLd dog - 17/Sep/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with sam read

did p2 and p3 in one. Really nice, long and pumpy.
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09

Just lead P1; felt bolder than I remembered. P3 was scrittier than I remembered. It was a close run thing getting up just before dark.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 25/Oct/08 with GD

Top pitch only
IceMonkey1982 - 20/Jul/08

Billg - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Bob Brewer

Lead P2 (6a). Took the new 5c finish above the ramp (light drizzle).
Paz - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/05 with BM

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/May/05

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - May/05 with Ben West

cornishben - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Max Dutson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/99

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/95

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 1994 with Tim

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990 with Simon Kemp

2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/88 with Ian Milne

keefe - 21/Aug/88

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/87

bullybones - Lead β - 1987

Mike Owen - 24/Jul/85 with Simon King

Lead pitches 2 and 3.
stp - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/83

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

steve L - AltLd - 21/May/80 with Pat

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, andy dunn, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 40
hard E50 of 14
E50 of 14
easy E50 of 14
hard E41 of 14
E412 of 14
easy E41 of 14
hard E30 of 14
E30 of 14
easy E30 of 14
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b0 of 14
hard 6a5 of 14
6a7 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
hard 5c2 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
3 Stars8 of 12
2 Stars4 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead9 of 43 (20.9%)
Followed3 of 43 (7.0%)
Toproped1 of 43 (2.3%)
Alt Leads24 of 43 (55.8%)
Unknown6 of 43 (14.0%)

'Climbed'12 of 43 (27.9%)
clean O/S22 of 43 (51.2%)
clean β1 of 43 (2.3%)
clean rpt3 of 43 (7.0%)
dogged3 of 43 (7.0%)
dnf2 of 43 (4.7%)