74m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling.
1) 4a, 15m. From the toe of the buttress, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.
4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake cracks and a corner above. © Rockfax

C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22/Jun/1930

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs.

JRennie 18/Oct AltLd O/S
with Bud
budchawla 18/Oct AltLd β
steve-grigg 17/Oct Lead O/S
Tim_C7 11/Oct Lead O/S
with Roald S
Hidden 04/Oct Lead O/S
08nbrierley 04/Oct AltLd O/S

Pitchs 1 and 2

with jamie
Hidden 30/Sep AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep AltLd O/S
JRJones 26/Sep AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 4, excellent route. feels serious for VS

with chris
Fragmod 11/Sep Lead

Hardest VS on the planet! Top pitch is HVS all day :)

Little Amy 06/Sep AltLd O/S

Very difficult move at the start of pitch 4, slipped once. Paddy lead

with Paddy
griffithpatrick 06/Sep AltLd O/S

Alt leads with Amy Trower. I lead top pitch, which was greasy and wet. One of the best routes I've done?

with amy trower
Gav Williams 06/Sep 2nd
Jules Lane 06/Sep Lead O/S

Led throughout and had to use combined tactics on the 5b start to P4 bit because a/ crack was too wet to allow layback and b/ I'm not good enough to do it by bridging. Rest of the pitch is good but tiring 4c stuff. Back of the final crack was green and sopping but decent jugs in the gloom. Great day.

IanD353 30/Aug AltLd O/S
with Dan
Chris Sieradzki 30/Aug AltLd O/S

VS really? Than make sure you led some E1 before. Start of P4 is very hard and you risk fall out of a ledge and than big swing. Very beautiful route. P4 one of nicest l have ever led.

with Krzysiek
Hidden 30/Aug AltLd O/S
foostu4 17/Aug AltLd O/S
nodwas 17/Aug AltLd
joe.91 16/Aug AltLd O/S

Linked P1 and P2 together and the last pitch

David Kay 16/Aug AltLd O/S
Gregory 08/Aug Lead

strung first 3 pitches together and rennie finished up superdirect top pitch - awesome

with Rennie
Mr Tickle 23/Jul Lead rpt
with Dan2
DanDevey94 23/Jul 2nd O/S

Classic climb, with a fluttery finish.

Dan Hostford 19/Jul Lead O/S

Wettest piece of rock in North Wales

Chubbs 18/Jul AltLd
leethebee 18/Jul AltLd
with Richard Howarth, Stella Wyn Thomas
fizzychewitt 15/Jul AltLd

Finally came back and conquered the top pitch. Led p2, p4. First few moves of P4 definitely the technical crux but it's a traditional thuggish bridge/flake hugging fest to the top. Gear good but it's energy sapping stopping to place it. Glad that I didn't do this as a new VS leader!

with Jayne
charlielow 10/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3. Awesome route, last pitch was awesome!

Jack93 10/Jul AltLd O/S

Superb route! Lead the 2nd and 4th pitches, both were excellent. The flake in particular at the top was amazing and nicely protected! First move up it is a bit vicious but it's up to a nice jug

Adam24B 05/Jul Lead O/S
kelly_426 03/Jul AltLd
Ron Rees Davies 30/Jun 2nd
with Matt
AielSavage 30/Jun AltLd

as a 3, alt lead with felicity, lead pitches 2 and 4

rushy11111918 30/Jun Lead
with Ron Rees Davies
Hidden 28/Jun Lead O/S
Gerallt Owain 22/Jun AltLd O/S
with Iwan Cynfal
Hidden 19/Jun Lead O/S
JonnySchofield 18/Jun Lead O/S

Lead Pitch 1, 3 and 4..... Brilliant climbing on the final pitch with plenty of pro to make it safe.

Sam Ash 18/Jun AltLd O/S


Teappleby 18/Jun AltLd

Great route in great company. The flake on pitch 3 reminded me of the position, out on the nose of the crag, that is on CB, although smaller and easier. Pitches 2&4.

Dawn_K_B 18/Jun AltLd O/S

P1+3. P4 was hard!

Jgresh 18/Jun AltLd O/S
Pohil 11/Jun Lead O/S
with SP
stuc 08/Jun AltLd rpt
with Dutch
Hidden 06/Jun AltLd
Oliver Houston 06/Jun AltLd O/S


with john hayes
Jack Manfredi ?/Jun AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun AltLd
mapperley samurai 30/May AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & 3.

Hidden 28/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May AltLd O/S
Blake 28/May Lead O/S

Last pitch is a beaut! the rock is terrible.... green and shiny, but i won't forget that in a hurry

AGoodi 23/May AltLd O/S

Led p2&4. bit wet in places

BenG32 23/May AltLd O/S
noemie5438 23/May AltLd O/S
with Ben, Amy Goodill
CharlieMack 13/May AltLd O/S
with Donas
Ernests Cunculis 13/May Lead
with Phillip Thomas
alexm198 21/Apr AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 3. Infamous last pitch is a one move wonder to leave the ledge then a glorious jug-haul to the top! Great fun.

with James
max_dickens 21/Apr AltLd O/S
bede.west 21/Apr Lead

seconded P1&2 then lead the final pitch of crosstie to finish. cool route!

James Beaumont 21/Apr AltLd O/S
lanky and weak 16/Apr AltLd O/S
with Lewis Talbot
alexjz 14/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3. Very nice

with Reyers Van Gils
gravity 09/Apr AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3. Superb route. My first time climbing on Dinas Mot - a really good crag. Dry, mild weather and we had the crag to ourselves almost all day!

with Khalid Qasrawi
khalidq 09/Apr AltLd O/S

I led P2 and P4. Both good. P4 had to use aid to get going and pleased with the struggle of the rest of the pitch.

Matt Amos 01/Mar Lead O/S

Pitches 1 and 2, top pitches were very very wet. And it started snowing so we finished up something else.

Hidden ??/2015 -
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden 15/Oct/14 Lead
Sam4242 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 and 4

joeallen28 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 3. Amazing climbing. Last pitch awesome.

with Sam4242
67hours 26/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1&2 as one

with Al Docherz
Hidden 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
dtalbot 18/Sep/14 AltLd
with Wm
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
petrch 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 4

with Maarten Youngman
Mr Messy 05/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Sam
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
David_Gledson 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! I led 1 and 2 as one big pitch, and the top pitch. Fantastic route.

Hidden 03/Sep/14 2nd
JVard 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the first three pitches, merging the first two into one. Cleanly seconded the final pitch.

BRoe 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

1st and 4th pitch lead

with Vardy
scottski ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

led pitch 1 and 3. tough last pitch for VS

with A. Baguley
tobydunford 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Tim Hamlet 30/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Andrew will wilson 26/Jul/14 Lead

Brilliant route. Easy moves on start of pitch four. Lots of bridging

Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Dan724 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led final 2 pitches. Great route but one of the most badly polished climbs I've ever experienced!

with Dan Jones
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
alpinismo.uk 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Jen
Hidden 21/Jul/14 -
Lessworkmoreclimbing 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

i led pitch 2, Deb had been wanting to do this route for a long time so I let her do the rest. Tough moves to start pitch 4 and no protection - not what I'd call VS 5b!

with Deb
arthur_de_briton 12/Jul/14 AltLd
with cat mckenna
lcullum7 10/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Naomi2003 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Rob did 1&2 as one pitch I lead 3rd. 4th pitch 5b, really hard was also wet and slimy, rob lead that and pulled me up first move.

with Rob Eades
JessWilliams ?/Jul/14 2nd
with Dad
Alison Cairns 30/Jun/14 AltLd

Oh that last pitch is such a beast!

with hilary
ColinD 29/Jun/14 AltLd
with Richard Hammond
julesmckim 28/Jun/14 AltLd
erbridger 24/Jun/14 AltLd

1 + 3

with nedly14
ned_85 24/Jun/14 AltLd
lizard-16-07 24/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Absolutely brilliant climb. The last pitch is probably the most challenging but satisfying. Seconded with a rucksack.

with Katie McKay
K Mckay 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Hands down the best pitch of climbing I have ever done!

with Liz Smith
Mowglee 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Combined p3&4

with Ali
Danjones 23/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

A nice route to make my 1st lead after 18 months off! Bit polished these days, but still an enjoyable outing! Left the top 2 pitches to Mr Hale as he hadn't done the route before! Getting quite polished trying to start the final 5b corner.

with Dan Hale
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd
simonsclimbing 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
jack 9895 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Powney 16/Jun/14 2nd
with Drew
rbruce 16/Jun/14 AltLd
with andy kirk
lithos 14/Jun/14 AltLd

P1 & 2 together paul did top 2 (sort of)

with cookie
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 13/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Pitches 1 & 2 (switched to 'Lorraine' afterwards).

with Aidan Carlisle, Sophia Dentzel
Sdentzel 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Aidan Carlisle, Chris Sansum
Matthew Robinson 04/Jun/14 AltLd
with Marcin
cearbhalld 03/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3. P4 was easily HVS

davkeo 03/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing. Did p2 & 4.top pitch was full on HVS in my book.

fuzzysheep01 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1-2 (linked) and 4.

Karlos 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Seconded P1+P2, which would be deadly in the wet. Led P3 which was short and safe, but physical and exposed. Seconded P4, where only real difficulty is getting of the ground. Again, save it for a dry day.

Rob Evans ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ruairidhwad ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S


with Dawn Brinkman
scottyp ?/Jun/14 2nd rpt
kivell 31/May/14 -
Hidden 31/May/14 -
Adam Hill 20/May/14 2nd

A combined effort for the crux of the final pitch..

Shaw Brown 18/May/14 Lead

Great route even though the boulder move on P4 is a bit out of character with the rest of the route, surprised it hasn't claimed any ankles.

Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
tgeh 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
adamre12 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Soloed P1, linked P2 and P3, Dan had a mare on P2> I lead P3 - good but fairly hard, polished.

Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd
Qureshi 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
ali macphee 02/May/14 2nd O/S
carl_123 02/May/14 Lead O/S

cheecky start to the final pitch

pftom 21/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 & P4

musgravet 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Idiots climbing on the crag above knocked a huge rock down, just missed us

Jamo Walker 15/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Joel Perkins senior
Jelly Mould Surfer 15/Apr/14 Lead rpt

24 years after my last visit, lead all the pitches this time. I sometimes can't remember my children's names, but the 5b move was as I remembered, had it wired and cruised, the rest was a bit of struggle when my wedding ring got stuck.

swmackey 11/Apr/14 AltLd
ianstevens 12/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Really cool route, lovely exposed hand traverse. Is the move into the grove really 5b? Felt more like safe 5a. Awesome route nonetheless!

Hidden 12/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
jacob shieldhouse hadley ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
ReubenS1990 ??/2014 AltLd dog

Alt leads in the rain from Pitch 2. Clean apart from last pitch which was Aided. Lead 1,3

Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 11/Oct/13 AltLd
Theeni 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with John McEvoy
mhawk 26/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
blueroly 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Oleg lead pitches 1 and 2 (single pitch), I lead the 2nd pitch (Pitch 3) and Oleg the final pitch (Pitch 4). An awesome climb.

with Oleg Makarov
steven_daniels99 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th

Hidden 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
tomdadom 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S


with Rhys
rbharries 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. Took a while to build up the guts for a few of the moves on the last pitch. Thought it was awesome but quite relentless!

with apples
andycash 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Ash
Steve Lenartowicz 19/Aug/13 Lead
with Clare
Ash Sayers 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
torsok 10/Aug/13 AltLd rpt

P2 & P4

with Matt H
partz 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing and brilliant finish. Bit damp at the top but great nonetheless

with Josh Robinson
Mark D 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Ewan Irvine
ewan i 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with mark duggan
samuel.stevens 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

p1 + p3

joeflan 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 -
Marq 27/Jul/13 AltLd rpt


with Paul Scott
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
cbeard 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Moved together, lead first few pitches in one.

Louis Hume 20/Jul/13 Lead
KateShakes 17/Jul/13 AltLd

Second first two pitches, lead pitch 3, second pitch 4. First trad route in the Pass, was brilliant.

llandringo 17/Jul/13 2nd
with Adam
Dr Toph 10/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Funky wee groove problem at the last pitch! Thankfully friction is better than it looks...

Zoomer 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Superb start to staff training. Last pitch not as bad as its made out.

with Si Denny
SAF 08/Jul/13 2nd
with Mark
LouMullen 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Mark - 1st and 4th - fantastic last pitch up the crack; Lou- 2nd and 3rd. loved the 2nd pitch, fab climbing, 3rd pitch more exposed pull up delicate crack traverse. Wonderful route.

with Mark Gylby
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Steveb27 ?/Jul/13 Lead
jamie d ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
stuaart 29/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Led P2, Lou led P1 and P3. Switched to final pitch of Diagonal due to wetness on P4.

with Louise Atkin
simon1965 25/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Laurence Cowton 25/Jun/13 AltLd

5b move was good fun, straight into steep cracks. Don't descend to the right...

with Howie
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Goodstuff 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 4. Getting in the final groove is tricky but great fun above.

due 10/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Col Kingshott 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Bert 07/Jun/13 Lead

Lead hard pitches

Bertbee 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

First and third pitch. Nice route done with speed and finesse - for once!

with Ben
Kyle87 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

p2 & p4, great fun

adam06 02/Jun/13 AltLd
lithos 02/Jun/13 AltLd
DaveMo 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Jan lead crux. linked into two pitches.

with Jan
Lee Groves 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
theone 02/Jun/13 AltLd
with Kuzma
peter myers 01/Jun/13 Lead
danpyrs 01/Jun/13 2nd

Ddim wedi gwneud y pitch ola

cem 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led p 2 & 4

Hidden 01/Jun/13 -
Pero 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Jones_88 01/Jun/13 AltLd

Last pitch has a boulder move that apparently gets 5b. I wouldn't claim I can climb 5b after this.

Josiemc ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
robgixer ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Alex.M-M. 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

P.1 and P.4.

with Vasco Bull
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
maria85 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Led all except first pitch. Found crux move a little worrying due to the block that's been jammed in below it to extend reach - a proper ankle snapped if your foot pops in the wrong place. Brilliant climb though.

with Amy
Murilo Lessa 26/May/13 2nd rpt

Du linked first two pitches and I bailed on the crux bridge move of the third pitch. More trickier than actually hardů :-(

with Eduardo Camiletti
francesanncavanagh 25/May/13 2nd
with Craig Fussy Pants Letham
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
SimonvanDam 07/May/13 AltLd
Mr Tickle 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Palmer 05/May/13 Lead O/S

p1 p2 ran together makes for a nice pitch

theomoore 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
stevetheleg 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Theo Moore, Mark Challoner
Tim Rodgers 03/May/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
jshields 20/Apr/13 AltLd

Done before, early '90s.

with Andy Neath, Ed James
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
clarky_two ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
richpickford ??/2013 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
neilh ??/2013 -
Hidden 08/Sep/12 AltLd
Sardien 20/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

P2 and 4 this time - excellent but bit wet which was quite unnerving at the top

with Greg Edwards
BeckyBrown1989 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
pembrokeshirecaver 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with John Bennetts
djones66 11/Aug/12 AltLd

Excellent route, I think. The final pitch would be a good gritstone route, and is good fun; don't be too bothered by the '5b' grade. Unfortunately, if you don't pay proper attention to navigation, as we didn't, then it is possible to veer off to join 'Superdirect' on P2. A bit alarming, but got up it anyway, to rejoin 'The Direct' for the last pitch. Splendid rock!

with Stve mc D
Dafydd Llywelyn 09/Aug/12 Lead
Dunx 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
Hidden 21/Jul/12 AltLd
petekeron 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S


R0bbie 12/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1,2,4

Olli-C 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
efrance24234 28/May/12 Lead O/S
metal arms 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches

Big Lee 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome route with varied climbing all the way. Lead pitches 1 & 3. Third pitch felt bold due to very windy/gusty cross-winds. Fourth pitch was great value for the grade.

MikeLell 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

A very windy day, ropes all over the place! Enjoyed the top corner pitch once I got into it.

with Lee Harrison
davesb 25/May/12 AltLd rpt

Finished up last pitch of something else (Diagonal? Felt hard for a 4c pitch, or Superdirect, possibly) due to traffic jam!

with Torquil
Ceridwen 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Pete Milner
phardman 09/May/12 AltLd rpt

Climbed in the rain. Finished up the last pitch of diagonal.

with Jon Bibby
Hidden ?/May/12 -
Scotsken 20/Mar/12 AltLd
Stephen Shaw 19/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Ian & Matt
Ian Hinkins 19/Mar/12 AltLd
bwestwood 08/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

Very good.

Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JamesP ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
bavarianGaz 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Damian
Daymo 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Gaz
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 29/Sep/11 -
with Cormac
Noodles 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome climbing with the lads, 2nd and 4th pitch were uber moist. Aided out of the polished corner as the lower half was soaking, 3rd pitch was really nice. Free beer at the bottom of the crag was a great reward :-)

stonemikey 02/Sep/11 AltLd
with Dom Gill
sara n 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wolf
Hidden 23/Aug/11 2nd
seb m-c 17/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Martin Callaghan
Clarky10 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Wet and slippy top pitch which made for an exciting finale

with Stuart Morris
martin c 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
grp 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
jossjones ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 29/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Let 2nd and 4th, found the 2nd pitch tricky, and the 4th brutal but brilliant, that pitch alone on the ground would have been immense!

with Sion Tegwared
martrin 26/Jul/11 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
Andy Moles 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Ran the first three pitches together.

with Calum
benkelsey 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

remus did first two pitches in one and I finished off the last two in one. not much gear in the traverse for rope drags sake.

grubes 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1+2 linked together.

with Haydn, Vicky
Hardonicus 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Took the final crux pitch. Solid 5b move to start off. Have a feeling that move could shut down someone just breaking into VS... Have done the first pitches of this about 16 years ago...

with vix, Luke Donaldson
Adam1973 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Ann S
vix 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I lead 3rd pitch (4c)

with Haydn, luke
Ann S 24/Jul/11 2nd

Sensibly Adam dropped a sling for me to pull on for the final 5b comedy routine.

with Adam
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Tom Redmond 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S

great route, top pitch corner crack was immense!!managed to get lost finding my way back into groove, and had to do a very hard traverse on a mono to get back!!

with john NLMC
Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
demarcation86 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Worth the three stars

with Paul
pryan300 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with T-Bone
dan ely 13/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with sharne
Dibdawg 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic finale pitch, one to savour.

with Mark Sheridan
mfisher 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
ollyroberts 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 + 4

with Matty
gw3285 10/Jul/11 AltLd
kat-lyle 10/Jul/11 2nd
with Andy Mccoy, fred
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead
Fred_Richard 09/Jul/11 AltLd

Last pitch is tuff for VS and not that well protected at the start for a VS.

with Andy Mccoy, Kat
Barry D 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Led top pitch free (for a change).

with John Taylor
ernie27uk 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the middle two pitches

dan gibson 03/Jul/11 Solo rpt
edmitchell 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Last pitch of diagonal. The 5 b pitch has no business on a vs route, as it is poorly protected and the landing poor.

Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Simon Cahill 02/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Had to aid climb the boulder start on pitch 4 even on top rope.

with Lee Paskin
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd
willoates 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

amazing route apart from the hard 5b move. If you climb 5b the rest is easy, if you climb 4c you would have to stand on someones shoulders.

with Iona
Tom Hecht 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
kristinawe 19/Jun/11 2nd
five 04/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
with AV
pie_eater_pete 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with ben smedley
bsmedz 03/Jun/11 AltLd
with Peter Sargent
Smelly Fox 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I thought the last pitch on this was harder than that on Superdirect.

with Steve Addy
pyro2312 31/May/11 AltLd β

Led 3rd pitch, hard last pitch

with John M
Clarky10 ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Ben Matthews
KKilroy ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Emma Clarke
al123 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd, fun climb

with terry
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mksmith35 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led 3rd and 4th pitch.

MarkRoe 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

The most enjoyable route on the whole road trip. 3 Star classic welsh climbing.

matty123 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ashley Hold 16/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
Julesthe1st 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
tatz45 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Led 2nd, 3rd and 4th pitches. Definitely feel top pitch deserves HVS.

with Wes Inskip
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Neil Henson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd O/S
bsmedz ??/2011 -
Sianny ??/2011 -

Note to self, need to work on my bridging big time - great climb though!!

with Dan
pasbury ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
ndraper1 ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
webbe01 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Sam Clarke
tedburt 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Sankey 03/Sep/10 AltLd

Lead P1+2 as one

with Luke
Graham Westbrook ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Paul Hastwell 31/Aug/10 AltLd β
with Laura Millichamp
LozM 30/Aug/10 AltLd

Led P1 and 3

with Paul HAstwell
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd
cat22 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

2PA on pitch 4!

with Mike
ian caton 16/Aug/10 AltLd

Did this about 38 years ago. Then there was a nice bouldering mat of turf below the 5b bit. Now ankle snapping ledge. If diagonal is HVS this is HVS.

with Abi
Abi Chard 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian
erinbastian 15/Aug/10 AltLd
with jacob phillips
John Kettle 03/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd
joese7en 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 21/Jul/10 Solo
jon clayton 21/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with jason williams
Hidden 12/Jul/10 -
Hidden 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
djking1983 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
twoplates 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with dave sharpe
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Hidden 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Sardien 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P3. Pretty easy for a 5b except one move in the top pitch. Nice climbing though

with Johnny, Simon Moore
JonathanJones 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

I lead the first two pitches, run together, then Freddie did the last two. defiantly worth 3 stars.

with Freddie
pawelx 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
J1PEF 25/Jun/10 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Liz
liz-264 24/Jun/10 AltLd
Martin Stevens 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Alt Leads, I led the crux 5b pitch. Bridging is the way. A few moves to get to gear and easier ground - falling before the gear is going to be a nasty, ledge-hitting drop, probably onto the belay.

with Mervyn L.
Sam Simpson 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/10 AltLd
John Roe 18/Jun/10 AltLd

Led pitches 1+2 together then led pitch 4

with Rusty Bale
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd
ritchierich 17/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Pitch 3 for me.

davesb 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
taw 17/Jun/10 AltLd
with Dave sb
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
stuart34 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
SAF 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1 and 3, had a bit of a moment on the final pitch when i got my foot stuck in the crack!!

with George Bradford
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jon boy 02/Jun/10 2nd
Alistair Corbett 02/Jun/10 AltLd
maxkellock 01/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
wynaptomos ?/Jun/10 Lead rpt
dan ely 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with jesse
Bex_M 30/May/10 AltLd
with Duncan Dunbar
Lawrie Brand 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Phil, Mike
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
tomhull 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
with matt harris
PaulHarris 23/May/10 AltLd
with John, Simon, Micheal
hedgehog77 23/May/10 AltLd
dickie01 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Julian King
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
harvie 21/May/10 Solo
Hidden 21/May/10 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 21/May/10 AltLd
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

I lead the first (4a) pitch and the last (5b) pitch. Stoncking route! loved the top pitch. VS 5b? should have been HVS I think.

steven 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Top dog Simon Holden did top pitch.

with Simon Holden, Simon Dawson
Katex 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Simon Edwards
Neil D 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3.

BorisVBlade 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and last pitch at 5b. Really is a 'Must do'!

ig248 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

lead P1-3 (in one pitch) and P5(5b)

with Philip, Kane
sdawson1 ?/May/10 AltLd

Brill route, well done to Simon for Top pitch

Luke Brooks ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Nipped out from the UKC Alpine Festival to get a route in, climbed in two pitches. Nice route, hard move didn't feel too desperate, 5a not 5b.

with Stewart
vincentvega 18/Apr/10 AltLd

Ran pitch 1 and 2 together. Dan had the honours for the last pitch, brilliant 3 star route!

with danny robb
C Mclean 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Craig Marshall
Hammy 09/Apr/10 AltLd
with Dan Platt, Lucy Woods
richardcreagh ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitches.

Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd
mlmatt 07/Mar/10 Lead β

Execellent climb covering some fun ground across Dinas mot. Finaly been back and completed it after backing off it about 3 years ago!

with chris jones
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
sionjosh ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
mcgrathr ??/2010 -
chriscarroll 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with Owain
Alex Mason 29/Oct/09 Lead O/S

ran pitches 1+2 together, then mikey led famine.

with Mikey G
Alaric 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Good lead from Jason going up pitch 4. Made it look straightforward, which it isn't.

with Jason
kleinej 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Paul P1 & P3, Me P2 & P4. Very good route.

with Paul
garywong 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd & 4th pitches.

Charlie Evans 26/Sep/09 AltLd dog

P1 - 4a - lead by me 4a P2 - 4b - 27m - by Gary P3 - 4c - 15m - by me - my first 4c lead! P4 - 5b - 17m - by Gary My pitches were clean onsight. But fell two or three times as a second on the last pitch. I loved pitch three: "Large holds lead up right to a steep diagonal crack. Monkey along this for a couple of metres, then stride rightwards climbing easily to a long ledge." CC Pushed me technically, so I had to take a breath and commit, but not horrific.

mikeshewring 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
lazybones 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Pearson
Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Dad (Chris Marjot)
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
The_Boy_ODwyer 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 & 4 Final pitch awesome

with Ben
thecurlyone 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first and third pitches. Issues with stuck ropes on the wet western gully on the way down.

with James
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
schwenk ?/Aug/09 AltLd


ingo 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter
fizzychewitt 15/Jul/09 AltLd

Led P1 & 3. P4 wet so abbed off from there (in near darkness). Will be back on a drier day!

with Jayne
mbradberry2008 ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S

First outdoor Multipitch lead

midnightsparks 24/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Chris Bellamy
Hidden 24/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
MontyH 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Brian
brian watson 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
willson 01/Jun/09 Lead

Lead last two pitches. Definatley the best pitches. Getting out of the corner was interesting!

with chris
chrisallan ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Adam1973 31/May/09 AltLd rpt

Led P2

with Alex
JEP 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kirstin
chadrads 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with andy chapman
hilled101 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Rich P
michael burrows 29/May/09 AltLd rpt

led first 2 pitches as 1

with peter white
groovy_nut 23/May/09 AltLd dnf

Got rained off after second pitch. Nasty wet slimy rock with water running down the cracks...hmm

with Patrick
lukewilliams 20/May/09 2nd
KieranT 17/May/09 Lead O/S
with David WMC
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
daveagriff 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Hill
Ben1983 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
sgl 01/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with helena
andrea83 ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
Chris M ??/2009 -
Gibson27 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Matthew Scott-Chalmers ??/2009 -
dycotiles 01/Nov/08 Lead β


with Eric
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
mark4344 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

joined first 2 pitches. holds ok, but general lack of gear( true for all of Dinas Mot). Top pitch is 2 hard moves to place good gear. After that a great crack climb.

with michel schonewille
davefount 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

led first and third pitches

with Glyn
Glyn 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead second and top pitch, second pitch was enjoyable slab climbing. Top pitch gives some strenuous bridging. Fantastic route

PeteH 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led first two pitches together and final pitch. Final pitch is never 5b, although it was dry today, which was nice (and probably unusual...) Deserves two stars, anyway :)

with Chris Moxon
Swirly 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 4, nice route some good moves. Top pitch isn't over after the first couple of moves.

with Dale and Nia
donkster 19/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

mudders ran 1st two pitches in one. i led next two.

with mudders
Donald Kelly 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Palmer; Andy Hemsted
Hjort 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

did last pitch 0f diagonal, as it was a bit soggy.

Adam1973 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3 & P4

eldre070 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Adam Burt
SamStokes 26/Jul/08 AltLd

Awesome one of the best VS's i've done!

Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/08 2nd
steve2006 ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
betamonkey 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Baker
C@rwyn 25/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

OK I did slip off the 5b move of the top pitch a couple of times but I dont think that really counts as a fall does it?

with Tom
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
fennerz 16/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Angus Kille
anguskille 16/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

nice and... direct

hazatgym 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Joe Herbert
alexharv3y 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Kate
HeatherF 10/Jun/08 Lead

Second time leading the last pitch. Got it first time this time and it felt alot safter and easier actually! shows im improving which is a shocker!

with Ollie
leopet 10/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Heather
irish paul 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 06/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
sammoore 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Ivan Holroyd
Hidden 30/May/08 AltLd dnf
Crewey-Si 30/May/08 AltLd

1st 2 pitches only

with Rob
eagleopus 24/May/08 -
with Gareth & Roger
James B 17/May/08 AltLd
with Nick
daveclarke5 10/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Jim
Hidden 10/May/08 AltLd
jimsim55 10/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. 5b move? Not sure about that, but a nervy thrutch anyway because the consequences of a fall there would be nasty. Cracking route.

heather.deane 08/May/08 2nd dog
with Andy
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd
Hidden 06/May/08 AltLd O/S
Sgt. Vest 06/May/08 AltLd O/S
with james
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
crag_monster ?/May/08 AltLd
lizzie789 ?/Mar/08 2nd
with Andy
barni ?/Feb/08 AltLd
with Si
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
stuc ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Wayne S ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Al Franks 01/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Martina
Alasdair88 01/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Martina
the rec 10/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Bill
HeatherF 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Meant to do the crack but got a bit lost and discovered we were on direct route! anyways it was great fun and i was really proud of leading the finishing 5b pitch, despite my foot slipping on the bridging part the first time(bad friction @ the mot in october the day after heavy rainfall!) and my plummeting 4m onto the ledge below=very bruised knees!

with My mum
Richard Gilbert ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S

First multi-pitch mountain route. Absolutely fantastic!

with Huw Charrington and Kris Calaka
rd20 30/Sep/07 2nd
with Patrick
paddygoodwin 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Robert
snakebite 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Toaf
matt.woodfield 29/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd
Carly 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with soph/rich
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
givemetea 17/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/07 AltLd
John HW 03/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Cath
lamma_hippie ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Jon Lawton
garythomas ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
riddle ?/Jul/07 AltLd

hmmmmmmmm!! not ideal with 3, but great route

with Tom Elliot & Hadley Slade-Jones
mike bridges 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Definately need to be confidant at VS for this one!Great route up the middle of Dinas Mot.Led pitches 1 & 3.pitch 2 is sustained 4b! The hand traverse pitch was easier than i`d expected,and the top pitch is desperate,no gear till you`ve done the crux(bridge it!) and not easy up the flakes,bit pumpy. good lead by Rob on top pitch!

Barry D 10/Jun/07 AltLd
with Chris M
Hidden 09/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Dan 85 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Soph
Irk the Purist 25/May/07 AltLd O/S

My favourite climb to date. Led pitches 1 and 3. 1 is straightforward, 2 is a delight, 3 is airy and 4 is the perfect end.

with Dave Ross
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/07 2nd
Mike Parker 04/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Dan Parker & James Ayre
Hidden ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
roberto18 ?/May/07 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route probably one of the best routes I have ever done. Did the crux pitch and found the bottom move easier than the top moves I'd give it HVS 5a.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/07 2nd O/S
dave o 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden 12/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Got the top crux pitch.. boulder problem fine but polished.. above this is another issue ;)

IanJackson 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Big Ian
Neil Henson 01/Apr/07 2nd

A classic. The final pitch certainly added some spice.

with Mark Collins
MikeT ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with SP, TP
Mark Collins 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Hidden 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
blancbleu 19/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
gripped01 ?/Feb/07 AltLd
with Oli
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
rubben ??/2007 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 2nd dog
tom.e 05/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

Led the 5b pitch

with Pete
Bristoldave 04/Nov/06 AltLd

Glad Doug 'won' the toss for the 5b pitch

with douglas
Hidden 04/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 04/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

I did final 5b pitch,great finishing pitch.

with Jim Williams
clive-greenwood 14/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Damien LMC
Hidden 10/Sep/06 AltLd
Ewan Russell 04/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd pitch

with harry+stu
Hidden 24/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
feilx 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Big A
Hidden 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Tom Last 14/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Clive
richardr ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
mje1398 17/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with John M + Liz G
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Mat J ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with Jonah
Hidden ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead rpt
Skell ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Kat
farmus21 ??/2006 AltLd
with John Pickles
Siderunner 27/Aug/05 AltLd

Tough last pitch for VS - bridged it.

with Bee
IanGilbertJones 21/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 11/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 11/Jul/05 AltLd
david morse ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with chris todd
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead dnf
mikeyjbs 19/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with leslie mccaferty
Topsy Turvy ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Rob Sykes
George Ormerod 10/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Roger
climbtim 19/Jun/04 AltLd
with ghost
Adrian Daniels 13/Jun/04 AltLd
with John Parrott
jimshrimp 07/Jun/04 AltLd

After doing this route several times, I still absolutely love it. Start is a little non-describt, but things keep building and getting progressively better. For a VS multi-pitch- its a winner.

Rog Wilko ?/Jun/04 AltLd

Omitted pitch 4. Need to do it again...

with Debbie Wilkinson
victim of mathematics 09/May/04 2nd dog

Fell off the 5b move on the first attempt.

with Vince
Lizard ?/May/04 2nd
with Leon Skeldon
Richard Horn ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 25/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
phil morton ?/Feb/04 2nd
waldenmatt ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Netherton
Hidden ??/2004 2nd β
Mark A Humphries 04/Dec/03 AltLd β

Me 2nd and 4th pitches. Foot pooped at the start of the 4th pitch. led ground up after that.

with Mike Buddle
leon ?/Sep/03 AltLd

lead the 2nd and last pitch.

samwelli 29/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Reuben Brown
Hidden 27/Aug/03 2nd O/S
aulda 24/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

First major multipitch

with Dave R
jamie ward 19/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Parish
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
reg_measures 22/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with steve burdett
James B 22/Jun/03 -
with Phil
Hidden 15/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Darragh ?/Jun/03 -
with Colm & Pat
kp64zl ?/Jun/03 AltLd
rapidrich 14/May/03 AltLd O/S
with Pete
kato'sdad 22/Apr/03 AltLd
RobSimmo 22/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2003 -
Hidden 26/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/02 AltLd
unfit 14/Jul/02 AltLd
with Clwyd Mountaineering Club
Hidden 11/May/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/01 AltLd
Urgles ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
with Efua
Rob Oram 05/Aug/00 AltLd O/S

I led the first and third pitch and thought it felt overgraded for VS 5a.

with Tom Asbridge
Brown ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Richi
sims ?/Aug/00 2nd O/S
with Nick
Roget 23/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with jon
mikej 25/Jun/00 Lead
with Dave Waugh
pipboujalay ?/Jun/00 Lead
with james
A Crook 29/May/00 AltLd O/S
with Dale Holding
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/2000 Lead
with Mark Harvey
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Banjo
Marq ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Will Wykes
VPJB ??/2000 -
Hidden 01/Sep/99 2nd O/S
BenTiffin ?/Sep/99 AltLd

Being 6ft 3 eradicated the hard move.

with Alex Bond
five ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with TW
Hidden 30/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/99 AltLd
shoulders 22/May/99 Lead O/S
with toby, paul
Different Steve ?/May/99 AltLd O/S
with Darren Lambert
Hidden ??/1999 -
pigeonjim ??/1999 Lead O/S

First Multi Pitch Route

petekeron ?/Dec/98 Lead O/S


with Fran Garrad-Cole
Hidden 21/Sep/98 -
Brian Rodgers 30/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with Val Hennelly
Paul Boardman 23/Jul/98 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Rock Fairy ?/Jul/98 AltLd

Made sure I got the nose traverse pitch!!

with Carl
Mark Riley ?/Jun/98 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
Hammy 30/May/98 Lead
with Richard Munro
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
Phil West 18/Mar/98 AltLd rpt

I led pitches 2 & 4 in Guide Tennies.

with Steve Wild
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
rachm2004 14/Sep/97 2nd
with Ian L
Hidden 08/Aug/97 Lead
John Pickles 27/May/97 AltLd O/S
with Dave Elliot
Phil West 03/May/97 Lead O/S

I led all pitches so Dave could get used to the rock.

with David Atherton
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
chrishedgehog ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Chris J
stuart100 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Hidden 14/Jul/96 2nd
timreynolds 16/Jun/96 AltLd
with John Burnip
BruceW ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Keith S.
Julian Wedd ??/1996 AltLd
with A. Brierley
sdht ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ??/1996 AltLd rpt
with Pierre
Trobbo 21/Oct/95 AltLd
with john blower
Chris Ellis 05/Aug/95 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
liabilityliz 04/Aug/95 Lead

My first lead climb.

with Dave Instructor, Martin
Hidden 25/Jul/95 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/95 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/95 AltLd
chris sm 17/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Duncan McLay
brady 09/Jul/95 AltLd
with John Cameron
colin milton 04/Jun/95 AltLd

ad p1 and p3

with eric milton
Hidden ?/May/95 Lead O/S
andrew300169 08/Apr/95 Lead O/S

Really nice route

with Jason
Jon Read ??/1995 AltLd
rurp ??/1995 Lead
Mickdenali ??/1995 -
with Mark Harvey
DavidR 20/Aug/94 2nd O/S
with John Marston
Tom Vivian 30/Jul/94 Lead
iskra2000 23/Jul/94 2nd
with Keith Barbour
Hidden 23/Jul/94 AltLd
ste_d 19/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 02/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/94 Lead
JiveWeasel 19/Jun/94 AltLd
with Rich C
Hidden 01/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
WB ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with Nicola
Scott McRae 28/May/94 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th (5b) pitches - tricky!

with Steve Jones
Budge ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Ellen Williams
smudge ??/1994 Lead O/S
Laramadness ??/1994 AltLd

Date? With?

Hidden 07/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Colin Edwards 20/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/93 AltLd
rob.grafton ??/1993 -
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, chris pugh
BigHairyIan 05/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Murray
Hidden 15/Aug/92 2nd O/S
leathers 25/Jul/92 AltLd O/S
with John Barnard
pingora 28/May/92 AltLd O/S
with A Blair
mikedelderfield 15/May/92 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies ?/May/92 AltLd
Marti999 ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
John HW ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Bill Nicholson
steve prior ?/Jun/91 AltLd
with Paul B
Babika 23/May/91 Lead O/S

Led the 2nd and last (5b) pitch

with Ekkhard Hettler
Iain Thow 14/Apr/91 Lead

The best VS in Wales?

with Catherine ?
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Nigel Coe ??/1991 AltLd
nai 25/Aug/90 AltLd
with Cal
andrew300169 ?/Aug/90 AltLd
with Pom
lithos ?/Jul/90 -
with dave stokes
Jelly Mould Surfer ?/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

Only did the 5b pitch

Hidden 29/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 09/Jun/90 AltLd
with Alan Holden
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Joyce
Hidden 17/Mar/90 AltLd
Big Rik 01/Jan/90 Lead O/S
with Dave Body
rilem ??/1990 2nd
with Ian W
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Big Rik ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Chris Body, Dave Body
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost ??/1990 AltLd
AndrewP ??/1990 AltLd
Tony Buckley ?/Jun/89 AltLd

Perhaps the only time I've really lost my temper while climbing was on the last pitch of this route. I was doing the trying bridging on the start of the last pitch and received some doubtless well intentioned but very badly timed advice from clibers on the route to the right, just as I was (successfully, thankfully) exploring the limits of my technique and adhesion on the polished moves. In my stressed state, my response was terse and direct...but I did apologise once i got to the top of the crag. Strange how you react to stress, isn't it?

with Robert Clark
malc 20/May/89 AltLd
with T Higgins
BigHairyIan 15/Apr/89 AltLd O/S
with Tufty (Stewart Moffat), Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
PaulHermes ??/1989 -
Hidden 12/Jul/88 AltLd
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/88 AltLd

Led pitches 1 (4a) & 3( 4c), Martin led 2(4b) and 4 (5b - crux)

with Martin
Hidden 29/Apr/88 2nd
Paul Figg ?/Mar/88 Lead
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Hidden 27/Sep/87 Lead
Hidden 12/May/87 AltLd O/S
babymoac 11/Sep/86 AltLd
with Rich Reeder
Hidden 10/Aug/86 AltLd
amcleish ??/1986 -
Hidden 28/Sep/85 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/85 AltLd O/S
johnkeith ??/1985 AltLd
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
scree ?/Oct/84 -
Hidden 29/Jun/84 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun/84 AltLd
mark-abz 20/May/84 Lead
with Graham W
John Marsland 05/May/84 2nd
with Dave Mould and his dad
Richard Weller ??/1984 Lead


with james eldridge
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1984 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
nigehughes ?/Sep/83 AltLd
with Pete Kay
AlanLittle ?/Aug/83 AltLd
with Roger Murray
Nigel Bond 29/May/82 AltLd
with Jeff
nigehughes ?/May/82 AltLd
with Phil James
biggianthead ?/Sep/81 -
with M
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Falko 01/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hammy 16/Jun/79 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Bruce Kerr 17/Apr/79 AltLd
with Brian Carson
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1979 Lead
with Ken Bruce
ewar woowar ??/1979 -
Chris Ellis 21/Oct/78 2nd
with Mike Arnold
Ken Taylor 30/Sep/78 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
Brian Wilderspin 23/Sep/78 AltLd
with Dave Winter
Hammy 08/Aug/78 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
andybirtwistle ?/Aug/78 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
Hidden 22/Apr/78 AltLd
RichardMc 14/Jan/78 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Mark Kemball ??/1978 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
telemark ??/1978 AltLd
with Jim Sutherland
mikej 16/Aug/77 AltLd
with Mike Mason
Nic Robinson 02/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
with Paul Greenland
GeoffG 07/May/77 AltLd
rogerskews 30/Apr/77 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Nigel Bond 05/Mar/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy, Dave
Hidden ??/1977 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/76 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/76 AltLd
jmr 20/Jun/76 AltLd
with Bob Howard
mikej 14/Jun/76 Lead
with Tony Waite
Chris Terrey 13/Jun/76 Lead
with John Mortimer, Roger Wilson
beaumap ?/Jun/76 AltLd
with Bernie Green
Andy Chubb 29/May/76 Lead

Henbury MC Meet Whit Weekend 28th May - 30th May 1976

with Saxon Ridley
Bolt Phobia 28/May/76 AltLd
Rob Davies 15/Apr/76 AltLd
with Mike Uren (CUMC)
Ian Jones ??/1976 AltLd O/S
with Billy Jones, Chris Newton, Mike Nnewton
Mike Owen ?/Aug/75 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Hidden ?/Jul/75 Lead
steve L 07/May/75 2nd
with Gary
petemeads ??/1975 AltLd
gwedgwood ??/1975 Lead O/S
with Sean Hanrahan
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
mikej 20/Jul/74 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden ??/1974 Lead
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead
Nigel Bond 08/Sep/73 Lead
with Bob Panther
Hidden ?/Aug/73 -
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/73 AltLd O/S

So misty we ended up on this in mistake for The Cracks. Shoulder on final pitch.

with Geoff Riding
ill_bill ??/1973 Lead

climbed many times...brilliant!

pneame ??/1973 -
John Stenhouse ?/Sep/72 AltLd
with John Offord
Tom V ?/Apr/71 -
with Paul O'Hara
RichardMc 21/Mar/71 2nd
with Harry Woodbridge
mikej 11/Apr/70 Lead
with E
Hidden ??/1970 AltLd
greenbuoy 29/Aug/69 2nd
with A N Other
tapley 07/Aug/69 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
Dave Musgrove ??/1969 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Gordon Stainforth 24/Aug/68 AltLd

Met Al Rouse at last belay ledge

with John Stainforth
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/68 -

Probably climbed 3/4 times over the years

with Dick Curtis & Paul Chapman
mikej 11/Jun/68 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
mikej 17/Jun/67 AltLd
with Frank Chester
kjacks ??/1965 2nd

Done traditionally with combined tactics at start of last pitch - a bit dodgy, but fun. Subequently led 'clean' -v nice moves.

with Dave Peers
oldmanofmow 14/Apr/61 Lead

Pete Williams, while Pat was leading the Cracks she did the top pitch better than ever though she is 6 inches shorter than I.

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