Rockfax Description
A far more amenable and protectable method of ascending the wall and roof, but still no push-over. Start at the thin crack beneath the roof.
Climb the thin crack to the break under the roof and power up and out across the right-leaning flakes to a couple of rounded finishing overlaps. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic! The centre of the wall, starting in the thin crack to the overhang. Make use of the rounded flake to sumount this and continue up and slightly right to finish 'manfully'. Friends protect.

Simon Cook Aug/1978

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

dominic lee 20/May Solo
stephen ashworth 24/Apr Solo
with Alex cox
dbrooks 17/Apr Lead β

pumpy placing gear

with Will
Will Mortimer 17/Apr 2nd rpt

Nice day

with Derwood
Jonno30 16/Apr TR dog

Very cheeky climb, had to play around with the hand holds and fell once before climbing to the top. Really nice climb but brutally sharp rocks.

with Katrina Trew Rock Hoppers
tobydunford 25/Mar Sent
Paul Baller 25/Mar TR
soloing 9a with out you looking 13/Mar Solo RP

much easier than i thought it would be

Jack J Keogan 25/Feb Solo rpt
Hidden 23/Feb Solo β
Jack J Keogan 21/Feb Lead dog

Upper breaks wet. shame!

with Lottie Thorne
chrismadar 18/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Slightly damp, almost came off clipping after the crux when my foot popped - wouldn't have been a nice fall. Nice route though, would be nice to do when had a chance to dry.

with Jon Madar
andrewmcleod 25/Oct/15 TR dog
with Richard Ive
Hidden 25/Oct/15 TR
EdGS 24/Aug/15 Sent x
Neil 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
OllieF 11/Aug/15 TR dog

This route is my nemesis, one day.

with Chris Rees
Gaz of Bath 31/Jul/15 Solo O/S
Keefy 30/Jul/15 TR dnf

Great to watch Wayne and Ad, "the artist's were at work". A little more work and practice needed for me.

with Wayne Killestein, Adam Baldock
KDhruev 22/Jun/15 Sent x
HardmanJ 20/Jun/15 TR RP
myrddinmuse 20/Jun/15 TR O/S
Will Mortimer 11/Jun/15 Lead G/U

First E2 Clean! Placed a few cams in the break then fell off after the roof. Worked the moves and had a break then got it on lead.

with Steve Salisbury
Hidden 08/Jun/15 Sent
olliebristol 16/May/15 Solo O/S

All the way this time. Bloody bold to lead!

with Pete
DredStripe 26/Apr/15 Solo β
salix 26/Apr/15 Solo β

Watched a local who had it wired. First above a mat, then without because it was so good. Reckon hard E1 5b much more accurate.

steve1234 23/Apr/15 Solo RP
supersouthward 12/Apr/15 -
Jackislav 12/Apr/15 Solo rpt
Andy Moles 10/Apr/15 2nd
with James Oswald
James Oswald 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

On Andy's gear. Powerful

kennythescot 06/Apr/15 Solo RP

Only worked the first half before. Got the Crux clean on sight soloed.

Nevil 06/Apr/15 TR dog
with Russell
petegunn 06/Apr/15 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
dready 27/Feb/15 TR O/S

nice climb good moves if you read it well its easier when on it ...

whiteexplorer 27/Feb/15 TR dog

3rd attempt

with joe
Dilwat 27/Feb/15 TR

On about the 7th attempt... Give myself an A+ for perseverance.

with dready
lewisrichardson 25/Dec/14 Solo rpt

Cheeky Christmas Day solo!

with dad
Sam Husband 07/Dec/14 2nd O/S
with Ed
Stroppy 07/Dec/14 Solo RP

Rested on the lead (the shame) so gave it a solo after to make up for it

mikespooner 07/Dec/14 Lead β

Straightforward having stolen all of Ed's beta!

with Luke von Freeden
Hidden ?/Dec/14 TR
snook 30/Nov/14 Solo β

Stoked to have finally got the balls to do it - chuffed with the flash. Actually not as bad as i thought it would be. Staying calm at the top and moving slightly left is the key.

onlyfoddington 23/Nov/14 Sent dnf

I had no real intention of doing this but I got up to the overhang where it starts to get interesting.

Hidden 04/Nov/14 Lead rpt
drewish 01/Nov/14 Solo O/S

Above a pad. Accidentally went direct to roof also. Massive holds up high. Brilliant! (5b)

with Hannah
steve1234 26/Oct/14 Lead RP

first E grade, amazing moves

Ben J 21/Oct/14 Solo O/S
with Gemma Steel
matt_read 10/Oct/14 TR dog
Kemics 04/Oct/14 TR RP

First route post rotator cuff tear. Felt utterly nails and close to 6a (moving up to the last break) but could be unfitness.

with Mel
Coops_13 29/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Patrick Hill 29/Aug/14 Solo
Jay-Ast 22/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tom Gale 08/Aug/14 TR dog
with Ellie, Mike
simonpearson 03/Aug/14 Solo O/S
BenClark 29/Jul/14 Lead

With Ali Clark

Sam4242 27/Jul/14 Solo
Hidden 23/Jul/14 TR
timreynolds 23/Jul/14 TR
Hidden 19/Jul/14 Solo rpt
fyfee8a 13/Jul/14 -
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Sent
maffujones 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Lauren
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor 07/Jul/14 Solo O/S
wallsie68 06/Jul/14 TR dnf
with Craig Salter
Ainsi 05/Jul/14 Solo
Rory Bascombe 03/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Ali Clark
Neil Rigiani 15/Jun/14 TR β
ollie_e 14/Jun/14 Solo rpt

Did it years ago, warm up today. Very soft in hindsight, not sure where the 5c comes into it.

Hidden 09/Jun/14 Solo O/S
alexrowe 26/May/14 2nd dog
Doug miller 26/May/14 Lead
Chaman 14/May/14 TR dnf
mark schramm 14/May/14 Lead
KDSclimber 05/May/14 TR dog
with Richard
Martin Bagshaw 04/May/14 Lead O/S
ipegg 04/May/14 2nd
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Alextreme 13/Mar/14 TR dog
Tom Last 11/Mar/14 TR rpt
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Sent β
highrepute 11/Jan/14 Sent
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
oliver.ghill91 26/Dec/13 Sent
Patrick Hill 26/Dec/13 Lead β

Got it 2nd time. HARD.

with Pete
dohart 07/Oct/13 TR dog

shunt. Not bad once you know where the big holds are. No hard moves so easy if your fit (which sadly i'm not at the moment)

Si dH 19/Sep/13 Sent O/S

Definitely feels like a route rather than a boulder problem, but its all pretty steady on big holds, not sure what's supposed to be the crux.

tim exley 04/Sep/13 Solo rpt
hornbywill 04/Sep/13 Solo G/U
timmyhobby 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
halfdan 10/Aug/13 TR RP
with Marc Baldwin
marcb 10/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd
tim exley 08/Jul/13 Solo rpt
tim exley 07/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/13 TR RP
Luke Dawson 24/Jun/13 Sent O/S
R2B 19/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Absolutely fantastic route. Looked through my legs on the second to last move and the ground looked quite far away.

with Charlotte
dominic lee 06/Jun/13 Solo
maddy92 01/Jun/13 TR dnf
Webster 01/Jun/13 TR dog

did all the moves on top rope but couldn't link it without pumping out.

leo-z-g 01/Jun/13 TR O/S
Graham Atkins 17/May/13 Solo
Rassapotimus 03/May/13 TR dog
with will cattell
Motown ?/May/13 Solo

Been up to the break a couple of times before and clambered back down. A slight jitter after the first break this time, but then straight up.

waydan 26/Apr/13 Lead RP


Owen W-G 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Didn't find any 5c but I did climb the top half very fast.

Oddjob 17/Mar/13 Sent β
with Adam B
Hidden 16/Mar/13 Sent dnf
Dale Turrell 01/Mar/13 TR RP
with Dave
Hidden ??/2013 Solo
Ianhansen ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2013 Solo O/S
willhornby ??/2013 -
hornbywill ??/2013 Solo RP

2nd go because im a chump onsighted limbo dancer though

h forrester 1994 ??/2013 Solo O/S
timdi ??/2013 -
gaz.marshall 27/Dec/12 Solo β

Have jumped from break on a few previous visits

Tom Seccombe 11/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Harvey, tj murry
bencoope 08/Dec/12 Solo
tomwheeler 08/Dec/12 Lead RP


Joe Costello 30/Nov/12 Sent O/S

Excellent. No 5c moves though ;)

AJM 28/Nov/12 Lead β

Excellent route. Did some up and downing to get gear in/sort rope tangle then nailed it. Lovely day

Mike Goldthorp 28/Nov/12 Solo O/S

Absolute bliss to climb, immaculate granite and just about high enough to be a bit spicy, 3* classic for me!

with Andy
John Tanner 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Ellis Butler-Barker 17/Nov/12 Solo rpt
with Dave, Dan
Stanners 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S


with James Rich, Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

One of the least intimidating and most enjoyable E2's around, just brilliant!

JamesRich 14/Oct/12 2nd dog

Found the slopey top section really difficult

Hidden 06/Oct/12 Sent O/S
roryferris ?/Oct/12 Lead RP
MoWalker3 29/Sep/12 TR
tim exley 21/Sep/12 Lead dog

Too much faffing!

with ben padbrury
Dan 85 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Dave
Pete Rigby 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Kelli Roberts
Croakinglizard 07/Sep/12 Solo

scary as

MarcT 01/Sep/12 Lead dog

Clean next time.

with Rory
Hidden ?/Sep/12 2nd
nickstephens 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
timreynolds 01/Aug/12 TR
Sean Kelly 01/Aug/12 TR

Repeated with Harry. Flowed up to the rounded flake then struggled to the top. A total pump!

with Harry Pearce
gg4419 ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
Michael Aylen 22/Jul/12 Lead RP


with Ed Evens
Thinker01 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becster
becster 21/Jul/12 2nd
andy_pemberton 30/May/12 Lead

Got pumped in big break placing cam. Lowered off. Left gear in place and pulled ropes. Led with first three bits of gear in. Not the purest style. It's quite hard! Solo? No thanks.

with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson
francois 23/May/12 Lead dog

Got pumped on the finish after unsing a bad sequence and fell. Went ok on second. Glad I didn't try it as a highball first.

with Chris
aljezurusrf08 19/May/12 2nd dnf
with Willow
mark schramm 02/May/12 Lead rpt
with stuart
stvredmond 21/Apr/12 Solo
JackMac 15/Apr/12 TR dog
with Kerrie
Hidden 29/Mar/12 TR rpt
Gilster 29/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 19/Mar/12 Solo O/S
rustaldo 18/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Alex
Hidden 10/Mar/12 TR
El3ctroFuzz 05/Mar/12 Sent rpt

Repeat ascent. In my Trainers..... its not 5c!

with Lewis Stewert, Tristan Sherlock, Elaine Budden
Justin T 16/Feb/12 Solo

Finally put to bed...

ollie_e 08/Feb/12 Solo O/S
with lewis
El3ctroFuzz 08/Jan/12 Sent O/S

Only 5b. Fear makes it harder?

with Tristan Sherlock
joedoherty 08/Jan/12 TR RP
with Rosemary Harrison
Hidden ??/2012 2nd dog
alice fuller ??/2012 2nd
mark schramm ??/2012 Lead
Lewis Stewart 04/Nov/11 Solo O/S
tedj234 23/Oct/11 Solo O/S
with Kate
nathanlee 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S

nice steep stuff

with Dom Lee
burto 04/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Mowglee 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ali
Stone Muppet 02/Oct/11 TR rpt

(after dogging the lead. maybe a bit hot. or maybe I was just unwilling to go for it!)

with bc, md
Hidden 13/Sep/11 TR
Hidden 13/Sep/11 TR RP
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Solo O/S
dmaldonado 28/Aug/11 Solo dnf
edinbed 27/Aug/11 Solo
freeclimbfreemind 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Will be back to finish soon, pumpy placing gear.

freeclimbfreemind 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Will be back to finish soon, pumpy placing gear.

Bob M 19/Aug/11 TR
Norman_P_W 19/Aug/11 TR
with Bob M
Garrouli 14/Aug/11 Solo O/S
with Ryan
Joey C 24/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Ed Evans
waydan 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Still having trouble placing second cam.

Chris Ellyatt 23/Jun/11 Lead β

Ground-up (no option for that yet!). So happy - first E2!

Owen Jefferies 23/Jun/11 2nd dog
waydan 19/Jun/11 TR rpt

felt strong today ready for lead.

waydan 19/Jun/11 Lead dog

Placed first cam,then placed no6 dragon cam on second break,dodgy placemet so checked and adusted twice,which blew my arms,fell after that but this climb is mine soon.

mark schramm 08/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Chris E
Chris Ebbutt 08/Jun/11 Lead
with Mark
waydan ?/Jun/11 TR
nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 Lead

took a while to commit to move; no. 1 camalot very useful at break!

with Pete Merrick
adam cooper*super* 25/May/11 Solo O/S

jug fest?

Tom Last 25/May/11 Lead O/S

Dead pleased. Easy to read the route from the ground which helps. Don't hang around!

with Chester
Jack_F 25/May/11 Sent O/S
jon_gill1 21/May/11 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 21/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd dog
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd rpt
madguernseyboy 15/May/11 TR rpt
leohl 15/May/11 Solo
jo86 15/May/11 TR

managed to climb on second attempt

martin one 15/May/11 TR
with brendon
Hidden 14/May/11 TR rpt
Bristoldave 11/May/11 Lead O/S
with nick
waydan ?/May/11 TR dnf

My project for 2011, i will lead this.

waydan ?/May/11 TR dnf
waydan ?/May/11 TR RP

A hard climb,now onto placing gear ready for lead.

Chris Ellyatt 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Fell on the second break. Just too powerful for me at the moment!

with Owen Jeffries
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/Apr/11 TR dnf
richiebongo 11/Apr/11 Solo O/S
jakenichol 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

hard. dropped cam. grovelled to the top : )

Dave Heaton 10/Apr/11 2nd
dale1968 08/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Tom
dale1968 08/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Great climb

with Tom
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead RP
thomb 02/Apr/11 Sent

clean, after bottling it at the 2nd break the first time and jumping off!

Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
Sean Kelly ?/Feb/11 TR


with Harry Pearce
Hidden 09/Jan/11 TR
Will_Murray ?/Jan/11 Solo β
Spence22 ?/Jan/11 TR RP

Night time top rope session with Mag Light underneath our hat's.

p2-melhuish ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 15/Dec/10 TR dog
Hidden 15/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Dec/10 Solo O/S
Ed morris 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with doug
Kim Middlebrook 12/Oct/10 -
Aaron Phillips 10/Oct/10 TR dnf

didnt get past the overhang. difficult, indeed.

with my dad
mark schramm 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with tom m
tommoulds 25/Sep/10 2nd β
with Schramm
joese7en 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

pumpy but no hard moves, hard E1 5b??

Toby Dunn 03/Sep/10 Solo
misterb 02/Sep/10 Solo β

nice climbing

with sim +wain
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Solo
MarkRyder 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 06/Aug/10 2nd dnf
mreynolds 25/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S
gangreen 02/Jun/10 -
ecowaller 31/May/10 Solo
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd
Hidden 23/May/10 TR rpt
Hidden 23/May/10 TR
GarethSL 08/May/10 TR dog
with Shaun + Mike
Hidden 05/May/10 TR
James Mitchelmore 04/May/10 Solo RP
tcfield 27/Apr/10 Lead RP
raku 13/Apr/10 Solo β
Mr Tickle 14/Mar/10 Lead

fell on final break...over reached! gutted, but great route. Will have a go nest time at getting it clean

with davenev
davenev 14/Mar/10 2nd dog
with luke
Hidden 04/Jan/10 Solo O/S
botster ??/2010 -
jld579 ??/2010 Solo
tom169 13/Dec/09 Solo β
jacobjacob 29/Nov/09 Solo
mattcyp88 28/Nov/09 Solo β
with Thomas Van Boeckel, Jacob Cook
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

it shook off the hangover. glad i led it rather than bouldered as almost had a wobbly topping out.

jbulger 26/Sep/09 2nd
with Darren Russell, Will Pettet Smith
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 10/Sep/09 Solo β
mark schramm 23/Aug/09 TR
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Dave Giles 14/Jun/09 Solo β
gg4419 ?/Jun/09 Lead RP

Pre placed gear

Hidden 30/May/09 Lead
adamscottthomas 29/May/09 Lead RP

With pre-placed gear :( Will have to go back and improve on style!

nblackbeard 03/May/09 Solo rpt
WillMclennan 03/May/09 Solo β
TheGuns 21/Apr/09 Lead dog
culmclimberRob 30/Mar/09 TR RP
with helen cook
sdht ??/2009 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 -

First done as a lead, then came back and did it as a highball years later - the latter was a far easier approach!

with Kat Spinney
Hidden 26/Dec/08 Solo
Hidden 15/Dec/08 Lead RP
Reeges 15/Dec/08 Lead β

Been waiting to try this route till I was strong enough to have a go at a flash. Only just made it but found it easy to repeat on subsiquent go's.

Dave Searle 16/Nov/08 Solo
culmclimberRob 01/Nov/08 TR dog

made for an entertaining climb with numb fingers and cold everythng else!!!! Butttt i almost their pretty much clean ascent just need to work out best way to get final hold at top done it once but cant remember foot placement so keep missing, look forward to coming back and giving it another go!!!

dan gibson 28/Aug/08 Solo O/S
petegunn 22/Aug/08 Lead
with Charlotte
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Sent O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Solo
Hidden 02/May/08 Solo rpt
Luke90 26/Apr/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
eley1 ?/Mar/08 Solo
with steve
Hidden 11/Feb/08 2nd O/S
eley1 11/Feb/08 Lead
with graham
dewrats ??/2008 -
sharmawho? ??/2008 TR dog
with oli, chris
Hidden ??/2008 Solo β
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 TR O/S
alexpethybridge ??/2008 TR O/S
chris j 05/Nov/07 Solo rpt
nblackbeard 11/Oct/07 2nd O/S
jw231 11/Oct/07 Lead rpt
hippo99 ?/Sep/07 Sent x
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead dnf
Steerpike 08/Jul/07 Lead RP
with James
James Moyle 08/Jul/07 2nd dog
with T.Moores
Hidden 08/Jul/07 Solo
Jon_Warner 06/Jul/07 TR dnf

Still too weak!

with Jonny
Dave Searle 01/Jun/07 Solo
Ian Parnell ?/May/07 Solo β
with Dave Henderson
Hidden ?/May/07 TR RP
Hidden ?/May/07 Solo RP
jw231 28/Apr/07 Solo RP
alaan 08/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Dave Searle 23/Mar/07 Sent O/S
Dan 85 25/Feb/07 Lead RP

One stupid fall

with Rob
Hidden ??/2007 TR
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Lloyders ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
sebrider ??/2007 Lead RP
with Roby Rudolf
Jon_Warner 20/Dec/06 TR dnf

Couldnt finish it on top rope, but meh, the gear looks good - will try and lead

with Jonny
Hidden 20/Dec/06 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Dec/06 TR dnf
chris j 28/Jun/06 TR rpt
with solo
Hidden 25/Apr/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 14/Apr/06 Lead dog

1 rest - wet hold

with dai
eddy-on-the-rocks 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 05/Jun/05 Sent
Hidden 10/Apr/05 Solo RP
Hidden ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2005 -
with Emma
climbergg ??/2005 -
crater 01/Aug/04 TR
dannyboy83 ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Chris Havill
feilx ??/2004 -
Gibson27 ??/2004 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/03 2nd
tom.e ??/2003 TR β
with Charlie Everett
Hidden ??/2003 TR
Hidden 02/Nov/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
timreynolds 15/Jun/01 TR
Rob Kennard ??/2001 -
with Will Thomas
Hidden 30/Mar/00 Solo rpt
petegunn 01/Mar/00 Lead
with Matt Wilkes
Hidden 09/Feb/00 TR
Hidden ?/Feb/00 Lead O/S
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
jmhood ??/2000 Solo
with Graham
Hidden 30/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden 17/May/98 Solo RP
Roget 07/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Mark Kemball 16/Jul/95 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
ellie macpherson ?/Apr/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/86 Lead β
Simon cook ?/Aug/78 Lead

Probably first ascent

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
N360rp, dparsons, TommyKips, Hidden, stephen ashworth, Hidden, hutchay, OllieF, iceaxejuggler, gingerking, Hidden, roryferris, Dale Turrell, waydan, MH123, Hidden, Hidden, freeclimbfreemind, Justinho, WillMclennan, Hidden, Luke90, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set