North Yorkshire > Eavestone Crag >
Wedgwood*** HVS 5a

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[The best HVS at Eavestone, 3 kb]Start just right of the green streak and climb the wall to reach the left-trending ramp-line. Move out right to the cracks in the wall and finish steeply up these. Pumpy but well protected. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Photo: The best HVS at Eavestone © Dave Musgrove
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This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

top section is fantastic
nick ferro - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Oli Birkill

Charlie Staincliffe - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Stuart Myatt

duzinga - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Jie

cobweb - 2nd - 01/Jun/13 with mick dowling, Roger Waterworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Climbster - 2nd β - 11/Aug/12 with Ian

Found this very sustained in the top section, tried placing a nut in the grove but ended up leaving them all hanging from the crack and running it out.
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12

Seconded after backing off the lead. The moves up to the ramp are pretty reachy if you're a shortarse. Brilliant route, top could do with more traffic.
climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Andy

Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Dave Musgrove - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Paul Farrish, Keith Morgan

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Alec, Huw

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/11

APRS - Lead - 11/Sep/11

Didn't chicken out this time. Superb, bold bottom bit and goey top bit.
Mattyk - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/11 with John Marsham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/10

Weasled around mantling the filthy ramp. Otherwise nice and quite sustained up high
jkarran - Lead - 28/Apr/10 with Jim

Jimmy57 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/10 with James Karran

Bit dirty - glad tom led this one.. tricky moves and don't think anyones been on it in a while. Great climbing though
odox - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Tom Pitchforth

very very green and bold start upto the ramp which was a mossy/lichen slab! Crept right into the crack and followed to top - fine route with loads of good gear. Steep at top to belay ledge with a wonderful view
lithos - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

Faffed for (much) too long on the first 2/3 and my arms gave in a couple of feet from the top :-(
Simon Caldwell - 2nd dog - 30/May/09 with lithos

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

This route is great. Quite difficult though, I fancy doing this again, maybe on lead
jugglingeek - TR dog - 18/Oct/08 with Paul Cookson

Hidden - TR O/S - Aug/07

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/07 with Bruce Hayward and Holly Adamthwaite

flyin high - 2007 with Dave / Tim

hmmm.. well technically i didn't actually lead all of it but this is added just to annoy Jamiemoss
Mattyk - Lead dog - 17/Sep/06 with Jude Lane

Brown - 2nd - 21/May/05

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/99

Hidden - 1992

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 27/Apr/91 with Simon Baker

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 18/Apr/90 with David

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ginger_Dave, Al_Matheson, Hidden, steve02697, robman, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 32
hard E10 of 11
E11 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard HVS2 of 11
HVS7 of 11
easy HVS1 of 11
hard VS0 of 11
VS0 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b1 of 11
hard 5a3 of 11
5a7 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
hard 4c0 of 11
4c0 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
3 Stars8 of 10
2 Stars2 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 36 (2.8%)
Lead17 of 36 (47.2%)
Followed14 of 36 (38.9%)
Toproped2 of 36 (5.6%)
Unknown2 of 36 (5.6%)

'Climbed'11 of 36 (30.6%)
clean O/S19 of 36 (52.8%)
clean β1 of 36 (2.8%)
clean rpt2 of 36 (5.6%)
dogged3 of 36 (8.3%)