Restricted Access
July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
Above some blocks about 25m left of the top of Cape York Approach lies a slab that is very mossy on its right and cleaner on its left. Start at the left edge of the slab base. Pad up a ramp, continue left just above the rim of the leaning lower wall, then go up to a ledge in a shallow depression. From the right side of the ledge, follow a shallow groove more easily to the top (block belays behind). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The second pitch of the original route (the first is now bolted and described separately as Cape York Approach). Technically straightforward but unprotected. There are sound holds for all moves but some fragile ones that must be avoided so careful climbing is needed.
20 m 4b/c About 10 m up and R from A Brucie Bonus above some blocks lies a slab that is very mossy on its R and cleaner on its L. Start at the L edge of the slab base where it is clean. Pad L up a ramp. Move L just above the lip of the leaning lower wall then go up to a ledge in a shallow depression. From the R side of the ledge follow a shallow groove more easily to the top (block belays behind). Walk to the L back to the Darwin level or use the ab station about 10 m R to return to the Cape York Level.
Harold Walmsley 17/Jun/2014.
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Logged Ascents
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Grey Rib and Slab Combination
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)