Ten Degrees North*** E2 5c
[Overuse of chalk on Ten Degrees North., 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
One the best crux sequences in the Pass. You may well end up bamboozled or even end up body-bridging Quarryman style across the groove!
1) 20m. As for Plexus P1, but belay just below and to the right of the Plexus belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb a wall then head right (peg) to the groove. From the base of this, make a step out left onto an obvious foothold, and a tricky mantel to get into the scooped slab above; all quite blind! Belay on the slab.
3) 5c, 20m. Smear, palm and contort up the rounded groove to reach a small roof. Pass this on the right and climb up to a peg, then head to a small overhang and trend up and right to a good belay just right of the huge capping roof.
4) 5b, 10m. Move up into the booming flake directly above the belay and climb up to reach the traverse line of Nexus. This leads left round the arete to belay at the perched block on P3 of Plexus. This can be a bit of a bun fight on a busy day as three classic routes converge here.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Overuse of chalk on Ten Degrees North. © mike lawrence?
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 139 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with adam booth

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Ed Mitchell

2 Pitches only with 60m ropes, if you start on the top of the first ledge. Actually found the top pitch much harder than the 5c pitch but Andy led all, I was happy to second both pitches clean and psyched to lead it next
Sardien - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Andy Scott

Ace.Tough at E2.....pretty serious on crux.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Helen

Stunning route. Great bridging.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14 with KM

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 18/Jun/14 with Marcin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

The Grist - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Paul Tanton

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Mark Grist

Adam brown lead p1 and 3, I lead 2 and 4. Absolute must do route, interesting climbing. Really had to think...
Sadie - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/14

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

Bob - 2014

Si - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Dougie led up until the Nexus belay in one pitch and I led to the top in one go. Cool route - some really baffling and precarious moves on the low pitches! I think most moves involved a smear or two. Found the traverse bit harder this time as a cam was stuck in the handhold which made moving across to the arete more awkward. Amazing sunset and sky over an inversion in Llanberis on the top belay to top it all off.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Scrambled up to ledge, I did the first 2 pitches, then Darren went to the top. Puzzling crux with good gear but the slab below would break your fall first.
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Darren McMaster

redjerry - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Danny

mop449 - 2nd β - Sep/13 with Jerry Handren

DaveMo - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Jan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/13

sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Owen, Ruth

JulesV - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Shauna Cunningham

FatRob stole the crux pitch. A good route but not great so that was surprising. Covered in an appalling amount of chalk, really lessened the climb, shame on whoever lugged buckets full of the stuff up there.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 16/Jul/13 with FatRob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

newtonmore - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Led first 3 (crux) pitches
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Gerallt Owain

Gerallt Owain - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Dan H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13

chris sm - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Jon Pearson

owain86 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Alex Mason

Sweet arse arseing
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Owain Atkins

Can't believe I've lived in North Wales for 4 years and hadn't done this. So good!
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Dave Evans

Probably should have warmed up on something easier. Precarious is the word.
wolverine - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Chris Coleman

CragDog - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with misha nepogodiev

Did this after Lubyanka earlier in the day - a great day out. I got the crux pitch and spent a long time trying to figure out the puzzling crux, where falling off wouldn't be a great idea. Eventually managed it with some weird contortions. The rest of the pitch was pretty trick as well. Tim took a while to commit to the 5b traverse moves on the next pitch - when I got there, I found out why! We were pretty tired by that point, having done a few routes on the Cromlech the previous day as well. A good route.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Tim Newton

richpickford - 2013

It all starts at P2. (P1 being easy but pretty much unprotected 4b climbing / traverse) P2 has gear were you need it although the belay described in the book is not a good as you want. P3 is sublime friction climbing, gear found after every move but not before. Some contortions needed but any grit stone climber would be familiar with any of them, P4 pretty steady 5a with a small one 5b in the sky bit polished but nothing compared to numerous other routes in the pass. P5 lovely 4b climbing. (I stitched it into P4 just care on rope work)
A Crook - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with Dave Garry

interest all the way, Very good.
mux - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with A Crook

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Brad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/11

Led crux pitch
cem - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Charles Mason

lead p2 and 4. pitch 2 felt bold but with good moves, pitch 3 was balancy for the crux but pretty solid 5a for the rest. pitch 4 was amazing traverse on jugs out to the arete, so gutted I forgot my camera. made a total mess of the belay at the top of pitch 2. seems to be becoming a recurring trend.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Really really good! Different.. but at least as good as left wall we reckoned. Ran together P2 and P3 for one monster awesome pitch.
JRae - AltLd - 09/Jul/11 with A Saul

really nice route, liked nexus traverse a lot when i got it. But, route finding skills need improvement!! me p1,3, tom, p2
CRiddiford - AltLd dog - 09/Jul/11 with Tom

Led pitches 2 and 3 together. Brilliant.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Caroline

NickJH - 2nd - Jul/11 with LiamG

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/11

technical and funky.. 3 quality 3star pitches..
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 03/May/11 with nic

apres work,p 1,3,5.
mynyddresident - AltLd O/S - 03/May/11 with wolf

Generally easier than Tremadog E2 5c's! Liam dispatched the 5c pitch with style.
benchwarmer - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Liam

Best E2 in the Pass?
david morse - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with G Unit

Rory Shaw - 2011

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Brilliant. Wasn't sure wehether the couple of weeps that we could see were crucial. Turned out to be fine.
gforce - Lead - 16/Aug/10 with Kath

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with andy stoatsbury

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with my uncle carl

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 25/Jun/10 with Pat

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Last route after two weeks in the pass. Lead 2nd and 4th pitches (5b and 5b). Nice climbing on both, tho the traverse on pitch 4 has the most polished holds I've ever come across. Hat of to matt for leading the precarious crux pitch.
lrandall - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Matteusz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 19/May/10

Tomprusk - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Tom Ripley

Freakin hard and wierd Climbing! Awesome though.
DuncanR - AltLd - 10/Apr/10 with Scott Mckenzie

soph - Lead - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

barni - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Paul James

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Good, but many E2s are better. Poor gear for crux moves.
Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Francis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/08

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Tough but good. E2+
ian caton - Lead O/S - 2008 with Abi

Marcus - 2008

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Glynne Andrew

Rob Kennard - 2007

a must for every E2 climber ! superb
mr mills - Lead O/S - 2007 with paul simkiss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 11/Jun/06 with Simon Frost

Hidden - Jun/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

With Phil Authers
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Phil Leng

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 13/Jul/03 with Nic Dill

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/98

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/95

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/95 with richard parry

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/94 with mik

Crux was wet, did via some strange contortions
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/94 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/94

rob.grafton - 1993 with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, chris pugh

WB - AltLd O/S - 1992

Nick Biven - AltLd - 13/Aug/91 with Tim Snaith

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/91

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 14/May/88

andy gittins - 1988

ChrisJD - 2nd - 20/Jun/87

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/86

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/85

GuyM - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/84

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1984 with Phillippa Mathews

jasper11 - 1983

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 30/May/82 with Charlie Leverton

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1981 with .?, Mick Tolley

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/80

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1979

Mike Owen - 14/Jun/78 with Joe Healey

mikej - 2nd - 24/May/78 with Wil Hurford

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/78

Ian Jones - 2nd β - 1978 with David Greenald, Dave Cowans

steve L - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/76 with sharpie

petemeads - AltLd - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris nutman, Jamie Skelton, adamre12, hutchay, Motown, gavinpeach, Dibdawg, stuart34, rurp, Tom Keaveny, ben360, iceaxejuggler, Owen W-G, Pete Nugent, Dave Searle, Dr Caterpillar, DavidR, Oli, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC), Mr Powly, timo.t

Total votes cast 108
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat