The blank wall right of Zig Zag is a fine piece of wall climbing. Start below a large square-cut niche.Move up into the niche and, from its left side, pull up onto the wall and then traverse out right to the blunt arete. Move up until a thin horizontal break leads back left to below thin cracks. Climb the cracks with difficulty to the final overhang and pull over it to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the left hand side of the cut out climb diagonally up and right using small finger holds, on reaching the arete make a couple of moves on slopers to gain the ledge. From here you have two options:
E6 6b - make a few more moves up the arete to reach the break, traverse left to a thin vertical seam.
E7 6b (original line) - Step immediately left from the ledge to gain downward facing overlaps with little for your feet. Make hard moves up to the break and thin vertical seam.
Take a breather and the opportunity for gear then work out a way up the small holds the technical wall above has to offer, to a good break below the top overlap before your arms send you for some big airtime! Make final easy moves through the overhang to finish.
Mark Edwards 1986
Ticklists: West Country Climbs.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Matt Fry||12/Dec/10||Lead RP||
In a session. The E6 variation, had an unusual exciting moment near the top, almost too pumped to hold the top break, would have been a good 8m or so fall! Interesting moves and reasonably protected where it matters, though run out. Didn't think it was soft for 6b, as some of the voting implies. Good route!
via the original Edwards line.
Did the first half of the climb alright but couldn't do the top section and have since learnt the bit we were trying to climb was not actually the correct top section of the route!
Finished straight up the E4 arete instead of heading back left.
|Jon Read||?/Jun/99||Lead RP||
The E6 variation -- seemed infinitely more sensible and logical.