UKC

600m. Magnificent scramble (600m of ascent) with short sections up to VDiff. Best to solo or only rope up occasionally. The initial chimney is the crux with another steep chimney at about VDiff after about 150m of ascent (the slabs L & R looked harder here). After the second chimney, the route eases and gradually heads Right to the ridge below a gigantic gendarme.

Route-finding around the first gendarme needs care. The third of four ramps on the right leads to a ledge with an awkward move around a block and after about 10-20m the ridge behind the gendarme can be seen.

The rest of the route is sustained grade 3 scrambling with massive exposure and a bit of loose rock. Fantastic.

To descend: continue West from the summit and take the first major gully on the Left (South) for 600m of loose but relatively easy scree.

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Voting
High 5.5
Mid 5.5
Low 5.5
High 5.4
Mid 5.4
Low 5.4
High 5.3
Mid 5.3
Low 5.3
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
North Face

Grade: 5.4 ***
(Eichorn Pinnacle)

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