300m, 7 pitches. 5.7R (run out). Recently voted 'the best 5.7 in the world' by an American climbing magazine (or for us Brits, VS). "A 7 pitch route up the slabs of Half Dome, Only two difficult moves on it, very little gear"... says dave657. Others will disagree, several tricky moves can be found on the first traverse alone. But memory will always be drawn to those long yet technically steady quartz dikes snaking up towards the clear blue sky... ROUTE. PITCH 1: Begin on a ledge by stunted trees 35m below an overhang which has a #4 Friend-size letterbox in it. Head up steadily until a traverse left beneath the overhang leads up to an obvious belay. This traverse is the crux, the famous 5.7 'glass traverse' and Contender for shiniest rock in the world -(yes, more polished than Chudleigh). 'Piss on your shoes' is the advice from Speedos-wearing/banana hammock Valley Vet at Camp 4. Wet shoes or dry, a high line is a challenge, place high runners before commiting. PITCH 2: 5.5 wanders wildly rightwards above the overhang and runs out a tad to the bolts, up through a small awkward rise to a two bolt belay. PITCH 3: The Supertopo crux. A 5.7 slab traverse leftwards, this at least has friction and joins the first dike commencing the cream of the route - the 25m run out mania. Ignore the double bolt belay to help with rope drag. One bolt on way eases tension to a two bolt belay (45m pitch). PITCH 4: Up (50m) of more 25m run out madness up the famous snaking quartz dike (or dikes as it happens), all at roughly HVD. Despite assertions otherwise, the holds are not always positive on the Dikes and many require pinches etc. While the climbing is steady, the exposure, vulnerability to cross winds and the run outs demand care. Gear initiative will get you nowhere on the first 5.4 runout pitch, but can prove very handy for those seeking protection higher up on apparently run out sections. PITCH 5 Look to join a rightwards branching dike taking a traverse across via a bolt. Climb the left side of an overlap (gear) to a two bolt belay above a hole (40m). PITCH 6 up dike to 2 bolt belay 5.4r (37m). PITCH 7 Head up the '5.2' slabs above, trickier than you'd expect, aiming to connect with an overlap and ample gear. Belay on ledge, gear. PITCH 8 Heads steadily through a series of roofs and wide cracks at 5.2, has ample gear. The post route 'scrambling' equals a lot of friction trudging up the vaunted moonscape to the famous summit. NOTES: Treat Supertopo's rack description with scepticism, this moderator managed to place a #4 friend 4 times on the route despite big gear being supposedly defunct on Snake Dike. Also, consider a late afternoon ascent to beat the crowds. It is said that a moonlight ascent with torches is apparently a great pick-me-up for the jaded Valley veteran... photos here please of any nutters doing that. WARNING: Despite the glass traverse and 25m run-outs on the 50m pitches, most climbers will find the crux to actually be the chaotic descent down the cables from the summit of Half Dome with all the other visitors... you'll see.

colin milton 02/Oct AltLd
with eric milton
smokeyj 26/Sep AltLd

moonlight ascent, left camp 4 about 17:30. amazing climb. long round trip from camp 4 (20 miles) got back to camp 4 just after 6 am

with pete scott
TGreen 25/Sep AltLd O/S

Lots of fun! We shared the belays with some hilariously RAD Americans, a completely different climbing culture to the UK, Fist bumps all round! I had sore feet so did the endless slabs to the top bare foot, had a sketchy moment when I stayed still too long, the sweat built up on my feet and I started to slide, luckily more slowly than I could scamper upwards.

Rosie Henstock 25/Sep AltLd O/S
keith_duncan 18/Sep 2nd

We left Camp Curry at 04:30 with food and 3l of water. The hike in along the Mist Trail was easier than when I hiked it in April despite having more gear. I wore my base layers but had to strip them off by the time we reached the first bridge. Our plan was for Aaron our guide to lead the pitches with Tim and I seconding. The hike to the base of the climb took about four and a half hours. Once there we skipped the line and Aaron blasted up the first pitch soloing to the first belay. Tim seconded and I followed behind him cleaning. We didn't do the normal third pitch, Aaron instead led up the 5.9X variant off the second belay to save time. This pitch requires good friction on your feet until you reach the overhang and then after stepping up and over (bomber foot hold on the right of the overhang) it gets easier. The slabs at the top of the climb really are endless and were hard work for me to hike. It took about forty minutes of zig zagging our way up to read the summit plain. Going down the hikers route cables we all went outside the right hand cable, I used my personal anchor on the wire and skipped the queue to get to the bottom quickly. We made better time on the hike down, and took the John Muir trail for some easier terrain. We got back to Camp Curry at 17:30, 13 hours door to door.

with Aaron Jones, Tim Lucas
Joughton 17/Sep Lead O/S
Greg M 17/Sep AltLd
with Nick T
Becky E 17/Sep 2nd O/S

As a team of 4, which reduced the scariness by making it more sociable. Good work to Graeme for leading it all, especially as it's so bold. Endless slabs to finish... superb day out.

with Fran, Maia, Graeme Hammond
Hidden 17/Sep 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 17/Sep Lead O/S
maybe_si 04/Sep AltLd O/S

Awesome route, had to queue but met some friendly people, fairly brutal descent with a knackered knee!

with Jez
Hidden 04/Sep AltLd
clams ?/Sep Lead

What a climb! 3 hrs. Missed the bolt before the crux on P3 and had a moment

druss 30/May AltLd O/S

Massive day and crash course in granite friction on P1 and P2. If you aren't climbing by 12:00 and people are in front you are coming back in the dark. Superb hike up.

poeter210 30/May AltLd O/S
Richard Goodey ??/2015 AltLd

Sweet route, must do.

RyanOsborne 29/Oct/14 AltLd

Lead 1,3,5 and 7ish. Excellent route. The first pitch would probably be quite hard for VS.

Matt77 29/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Ryan led the hardest pitches. I thought it was going to be plain sailing for me until I came up against the '5.2' traverse on pitch 6! The whole day was great; the walk-in, the climb, having the summit to ourselves, descending the cables and the walk-out. Best climbing adventure I've had so far.

mrteale 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

9 hours trailhead to trailhead, fast and fun day.

with alook
alooker 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Ahab ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Lead all but second pitch

matt_read 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
steveprice.exmouth 17/Sep/14 2nd
with Pete Callaghan
Jamiet297 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Pretty scared

with Silvia Candia
petecallaghan 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Wow! I lead all but the last pitch.

silviac 17/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Andy Fielding 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Started late afternoon. Arrived on top just as the sun was setting.

with Antoine Bard
mjeffery 05/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Theeni 29/May/14 Lead O/S

Epic 15 hour day. Huge runouts, took the sketchy higher traverse. Cables not too crowded, perhaps as a result of the permit system. Climbers don't need permits to descend and there didn't seem to be anyone checking anyway

with Jo
Stickle Tarn 16/Apr/14 AltLd
Matt1234 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Neil ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 02/Oct/13 Solo O/S

Ace. 6Hours curry village and back the afternoon before being thrown out of the park.

Murilo Lessa 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Beautiful day, wicked line!

with Andrew Cook
scott mayled 05/Sep/13 AltLd

Hard walk in but well worth it. Super long scary run outs cheers George for an unforgettable day!

herman0055 05/Sep/13 AltLd
with scott mayled, Glen bloomer
AndyCook ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Little AndyH ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Matt17 ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Absolutely brilliant adventure, loved every minute of it! Well the walk back was a bit of a killer on the knees, descending the cables is the crux!

with Andy, Ali
Hidden 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Laurence Cowton 29/Aug/13 AltLd

Let Howie take the first few pitches, then had a go at the run out VDiff pitches. Scary stuff. The cables down were surprisingly sketchy!

with Howie, Donald
jonnyboy 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Robinson
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
mrplastique 31/Jul/13 2nd

Hired guide from YMS. Unfortunately was unable to lead any pitches but great day out. Climb was easy but great feeling of exposure

alex_paisley 09/Jun/13 AltLd β

Good solid climb, but be weary of the rest of the day surrounding this climb. The approach is long and we had trouble finding the climbers trail leading us to a random slab we had to scramble off of. There are a lot of cairns to take you the wrong way. On the first pitch on the glassy traverse, my partner placed high gear, then down climbed quite a ways under the roof and found the less polished rock. Half way up the climb we ran out of water in 40c weather after bringing 2L each. While flashing our gear and dancing for water on the summit from hikers made it a unique experience, if its hot bring more water than you think.

mattking_109 09/Jun/13 Lead

A big day. Slightly challenging to actually get to the start of the route - from the point where you break from the john muir trail there isn't really a path. The climbing is fun, the crux being the 3rd pitch traverse in my opinion, although there is actually a bolt half way across which helps. The runout sections are easy. Take 3l of water.

with Alex Paisley
Martin Bagshaw 12/Oct/12 AltLd

Left the campsite at 5am, got back to the campsite at 7.30pm. Took our time, though were one of the first parties on the route, and had about 8 parties arriving within 10 minutes of us, at about 9am. Super run out, but easy climbing, stopping to take photos with a 20m+ runout while waiting for the anchor above to become free. On the last pitch I lead, the only gear was the anchor! A pretty easy climb overall, but you've got to trust your feet. A good way to end a Yosemite trip as my legs got ruined from the 15 or so mile hike.

with Christine Belk
Hidden ?/Oct/12 -
tuukka 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Maija
tim newton 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Ginger McGrath 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

climbed on a quick stop over whilst driving across country. fantastic fun route with two great friends!. masons 1st multi-pitch and 3rd ever route

with mason, brian fencil
Giles Eperon 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with eddie, jena meinecke
alan1234 ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding 06/May/12 AltLd

15.5 hours car to car with a 0315 wake up call. Long walk in, brilliant climbing, long walk out. The cables were down (i.e. flat on the rock) so we had to hand over hand down them to get off the top. Didn't really believe my feet would stick on the glassy traverse of pitch one but somehow they did. Pitch two has a tricky move out of sight of your belayer. Pitch three was delicate and run out. The rest was like climbing up a dragons back with a bolt every 25m! After the endless slabs to the top we virtually had the place to ourselves. Definately worth the effort (it was Claire's third time) but it's not called Snake "Hike" for nothing.

with Claire Poppett
EddieG 17/Oct/11 Lead β

A phenomenal day after bivvying at Little Yosemite Valley Camp. Much easier to head straight to the left of the roof on P1 rather than head right and traverse. Found the mini-roof on P2 the crux of the route after climbing into trouble. Belaying just after the traverse on P3 is a good idea if you need to coach your second through the moves. All in an awesome experience.

with Zoe Gapper
maria85 ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
stuart34 23/Sep/11 Solo
Chris Sansum 19/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Chris P1-5, Gary P6-10.

with Gary Lewin
Hidden 16/Sep/11 AltLd
andrew sandercock ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

13 hours car to car, plenty of waiting around at bottom of route even with a 5.45am start. Stuck behind other parties until pitch 4/5. Lead P1,3,5,7(?)

with Fraser
atolan 19/Aug/11 AltLd

Great climb on a great day. Only 2 parties in front of us.

peppermill ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Simon Bennett
DavidR 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

All done in a day. Left Upper Pines campground at 5am and returned to Curry Village for pizza and beer at 8:30pm. 17 miles round-trip all-in, with 4hrs 20 mins to do the route. Tremendous day. Led all but the first half of pitch 2, as Hol wasn't feeling too good. Found the route pretty mentally exhausting, and a tad harrowing, even though it's not desperately hard! Having said that, the traverse on pitch 1 is utterly desperate for the grade, and I found part of the alleged 5.2 friction climbing on pitch 7 very scary. Message - do NOT underestimate this climb!

Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
sparkass 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

At full moon, as recommended by Pete. Topped out at sunrise. Brilliant!

andymcbill 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Alt leads me on first and third etc. Great.

with Ben warrick
pete87abs 14/Jun/11 Solo O/S

roped, in the full moon, solitude!!

Hidden ?/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ed Booth 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Roel Driesen
Adam Booth 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Roel, Ed Booth
Graeme Gilchrist 01/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with craig, Mark
Andy Clarke 22/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Utterly fantastic big day out, from the 6 mile walk in before dawn to the 9 mile run back to make it in time for a beer. A very striking line once the first 3 pitches get you established - the dike has such a variety and profusion of holds it feels like it was expressly designed for climbing. Avoid the worst polish on P1 by moving back down after placing gear and staying low, and enjoy the excellent friction of the bold traverse on P3. Stunning view from the top. Led P3 then it all merged into one long glorious run out!

with Chris, Dale
Zoomer 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb but very weird. Very easy 5.7 by Yosemite standards but staggeringley run out. UK grade VS/HVS 4a. Easy climbing bar the two crux's but one bolt in a 50m pitch certainly adds to the spice. Tops out (eventually) on the summit of Half Dome which is a must for anyone visiting Yosemite.

gingergeorge 15/Sep/10 AltLd
jimorothy 13/Sep/10 AltLd

Traversed very high on the 'glass' of pitch 1 and am still having nightmares about it, how I did not fall, I do not know. Very run out, obviously world class.

with Rachel Crolla
Barry Kerslake 08/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Very run out.

with Luke F
Byronius Maximus ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Great fun climb and good day out.

Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Dale ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

What a day? 6 mile walk in super climbing andy had some bad enchalotas the day b4 the smells coming out of him was so bad could smell it half way up first pitch. It was a cold on the route ended up having to hump the dike to keep warm. When we got to the top I had tears in my eyes so good. amazing views. We then had to run down 9 miles to make to make the all you can eat buffet.

with Chris
ablackett 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nearly didn't climb it because we couldn't find it! It was about 6-700m further left than we thought it was. Fantastic day out, the friction traverses are terrifying and the run outs keep you concentrating!

with Kyle
yarbles 22/Aug/10 Lead

Great route, do it with doubles if you want to protect your second on the friction traverse.

with Jo
Jimmy O 18/Jun/10 AltLd

Only a fool would try to traverse that shiny granite work surface, right? Although with good gear if you slip you do get to run down the slab towards your belayer!

clairepoppett 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Jimmy O
Hidden 03/Jun/10 AltLd
colkurtz 03/Jun/10 2nd
with Robb
HIGHTOWER 15/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Great day out.

with Patch
Hidden 15/Oct/09 AltLd
simon kimber ?/Oct/09 Solo O/S

topped out in time to watch the sunset, lovely

Hidden ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Julesthe1st 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Took a wrong turn on the approach.Spent hours trudging down through an overgrown gorge only to find ourselves back on the Mist Trail about 4 hours after setting off. Still we persevered (having already gone through all our water) and eventually found the route. Enjoyed the route and suffered a dehydrated hike back to Camp 4. Happy Days!

with shino
hlegge 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

8/10 Lovely runnouts, VERY crowded, make sure that you get there as early as possible or you might end up waiting for 5 teams above you to get off each belay station. Maybe take a small book in case this happens!

tcn_2002 24/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Rob84 ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy F
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Gus 07/May/09 Lead O/S
with isaac hunt
johno072 ??/2009 AltLd
Dougie Harvey 07/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Finlay Wild
david morse ?/Oct/08 AltLd
with rampant and general
dj_brigham05 09/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with John Jones
chris2451 ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Manny Dhaliwal
cat22 ?/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
markalmack ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with katie garrett
kitkat78 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Long long day, but worth every minute (once we were sitting on the top with the runouts behind us!)

with SteveM
SteveM 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

A bad head day, but a stunning route.

with Kat
Hidden 05/May/08 AltLd
fritz_in_aotearoa ??/2008 -
Christian Beck ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Awesome Route , nothing else needs to be said!.. :)

MikeLeeds 11/Aug/07 AltLd
with Andy Asaam
Hidden 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
PenJD 09/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
mikelaing ?/May/06 AltLd O/S

Tip for pitch 1. Place the pro high in the crack then cross the slab low - no one crosses it high - it's like glass!

with Pete Harrison
zero six ??/2006 AltLd O/S
datoon 02/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with RT
Hidden ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
keith leonard ?/Oct/05 -
with mum
Hidden ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
chrishedgehog 20/May/05 AltLd O/S

Hard to imagine a better experience on rock

with Joe Thompson
Hidden 16/Sep/04 AltLd
mjeffery 04/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
Pedro50 ?/Sep/04 AltLd
with Stuart Campbell
rlrs ?/Sep/04 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/04 AltLd
with Hugh
steveP 28/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wynn
Hidden 28/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2003 -
Will Homoky 12/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Dave Foster
timbanton ?/Mar/02 -
Hidden 05/Oct/01 AltLd O/S
Derek Furze ?/Oct/01 -
K1 29/Sep/01 AltLd
with Rachel Lavery
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
rockcat 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S

A great route but very sparsely bolted!

with Wendy Whitby
lost.arrow 26/Sep/00 Lead
with Gill Heartly
sadams ?/Oct/99 AltLd
with John Boyle
dan gibson ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with anthony prior, helen gibson
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
Simonfarfaraway ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Awesome route

with Steve Hastings
Hidden ??/1999 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/98 AltLd O/S
mux ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S

Led Every pitch, solo'd the first trailing the rope just to get ahead of the masses following us up to base. Marks First multi pitch route. Bit of an Eye opener for him. Good Day.

with Kiwi Mark
WB ?/May/97 AltLd O/S
with Stu
shark ?/Apr/97 AltLd
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 27/Sep/95 Solo
Nick Rundall ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Chris Ellis 26/Sep/94 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Andy Hyslop ??/1994 -
Hidden 26/May/93 AltLd O/S
John HW ?/Sep/90 -
with Julie
keefe 21/Jul/85 -
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High 5.8
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High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
High 5.6
Mid 5.6
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Votes cast 24
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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