Rockfax Description
14m. One of the classics of the crag with spectacular and photogenic positions. Start on the left (or by climbing over the pinnacle) and tackle the roof at the top of the initial groove - direct is thuggy, on the right is technical. The exposed face above gives a superb finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?.

smithjmw46 08/Sep Lead rpt
steely 08/Sep Lead G/U
owain-1978 08/Sep 2nd
cpforbes 08/Aug Lead O/S
MBarraclough 08/Aug Lead O/S
djbeaumont 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Trace
petegunn 05/Aug Lead
with Stu Steel, Davina
tmawer 24/Jul Lead rpt
with Maz
MazElden 24/Jul 2nd dog
joem 22/Jul Lead O/S
spenser 09/Jul Lead O/S

Really good route, beginning to address my inability to climb trad routes involving steep moves.

with Steve Smith
Keith Swainson 05/Jul Lead O/S
with Matt Levick, Dan Jackson, James Turner, Georgie
Georgie25 05/Jul 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun 2nd
Adamski1986 03/Jun Lead
Tim Rodgers 03/Jun 2nd
Alpenglow 30/May Lead O/S
odox 30/May 2nd
oli2wd 27/May -
MarkAstley ?/May Lead O/S

2nd time leading this, Jess second

SomeClimbingGuy 17/Apr Lead O/S
ben.phillips 15/Mar Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 15/Mar 2nd O/S
with Ben Philips
smithjmw46 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Worth every single inch. Cruised up it. Crux was incredible.

with Andreas Moritz
charley 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Anstiss
Mike-W-99 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Took the thugs approach to the crux. Lovely route.

abbeywall 31/Aug/14 2nd

Very awkward crux move. Not had to use double arm jams before

with Mike
Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd
8633brown 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
David Stevens 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David Crofts
Sciguy 24/Jul/14 2nd rpt

great climb, real struggle at crux, but finally muscled my way past it.

with tris, John Wilson
Topsy Turvy 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Sciguy 21/Jul/14 2nd dog
with John Wilson
Gabe Oliver 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
y2keable 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Brilliant route, the move up the overhang is easy but committed.

with John
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Chris Huntington 20/Jun/14 2nd β
Tom McCabe 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Think I must have stepped out too early to really appreciate it... not a huge fan.

with Andrei Markin
Harry William Brook 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Claire
ClimbingGlen 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ana Piris, Teresa Torrents
Simnel 17/May/14 Lead
with Tony S
K Wall 17/May/14 2nd
with jill
Hidden ??/2014 -
Topsy Turvy ??/2014 Lead

Fun route. Done several times before. This time with mike as well.

with John Wilson
MikeLell 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
cosmicray 08/Sep/13 AltLd
with Dave Ferguson.
Hidden 26/Aug/13 -
Tommy Moore 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Had a bit of trouble with commitment, rested on rope.

peter.ravenscroft27 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, took a while to work out the move but lovly when committed.

Gatley 30/Jun/13 2nd
Simnel 26/Jun/13 Lead
with Andy H
Peter Metcalfe 09/Jun/13 Lead

Bit of a one-move wonder. Top face is much easier than it looks

Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead β
kyaizawa 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route but it is essentially a one-move wonder, no harder than 4c.

lcullum7 27/May/13 2nd O/S
08nbrierley 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with sophie
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
malteserEd 22/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Matt Poole 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
dasc 11/Aug/12 TR

Mark on lead

with mark
Simon Caldwell 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Great stuff, worth the wait. Shame about the dead bird in the wide crack near the top!

with Carmen
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Richard Alderton 10/Aug/12 Lead dog

Took the technical route. Two falls at the crux

with Liam
Dervey 10/Aug/12 2nd
with Rich
mjackson 15/Jul/12 2nd
Lawrie Brand 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah Laing
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead
vertigo 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Great belay spot at the top!

with Dash
lcullum7 12/May/12 2nd
with Ben Barnard
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Dervey ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
ed.burton 05/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Henry Häkkinen
adamjc13 30/Sep/11 2nd

Next time i lead

with Paolo Thige
malteserEd 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
y2keable 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John
rgd1977 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Drew(yes im magic) 20/Aug/11 2nd
with Ian Brown
KevB 03/Aug/11 Lead
with Tony P
MoWalker3 31/Jul/11 -
with Toni
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Liam Martin 12/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with David Cowley
David Cowley 12/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
duncman 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Took quite a while to figure out how i was going to get established on the face.

with oli
ablackett 01/Jun/11 Lead dog

Climbed over the pinnacle then moved onto the face, they way it must be done! Found the thuggy move through the roof hard, but I am not a thug, so prob 5a is fair.

with Andy Wallace
Liam Martin 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Liam Martin 24/May/11 2nd rpt
Aaron Duke 24/May/11 2nd dog
gazb 24/May/11 Lead
with liam martin
davewsargent 21/May/11 Lead
jshields 21/May/11 Lead
MikeDowsett 21/May/11 2nd
chris smith 20/May/11 Lead O/S
joscott 20/May/11 2nd
graphiclunarkid 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Via the right-hand face rather than the thuggy crack.

with Huw
josephgrimwade 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Peter Stollery
Adrianw 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
sarah hawker 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
Adamski1986 ?/Apr/11 TR O/S
with Richard Gage
Ben lad ??/2011 -
with chrissie andy rasputan, rambo and justin
Wayne A 30/Aug/10 Lead
with Karen Pickering
barney800 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great climb. Reckon the crux is a well protected 5a though.

with Katherine Shaw
AndyT1151 08/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Em66 30/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
brayg01 24/Jun/10 TR O/S

Fergus backed away from the lead, I then top roped to get gear out. Great climb!

with Fergus
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Solo
jonb23 17/Jun/10 2nd
with Louis Wallace
Rog Wilko 31/May/10 2nd

Afraid I wasn't up to the crux move - had to use 1 pt of aid. Boo!

Simnel 23/May/10 2nd
with Paul Carruthers
Daniel Sutherland 22/May/10 Lead rpt
with Chris
Skinny Kin 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Bit polished in places these days. Shame.

with Lucian Peterca
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd β
David Bulley 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

VS 4c bang on.

Falko 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Went right at the 'roof' and avoided the 'thuggish' jamming - which is unusual for me. Delightful exposure on the final wall.

with Matthew Rech
clairepoppett 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with James R
Chriswallis2 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
JonathanJones 07/Mar/10 2nd
Christopher Roberts ??/2010 Lead
stuaart 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Great reachy move up onto the face (perhaps more like 5a?). Shame it is a one move wonder route though.

with Laura Wright
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
WendyT 22/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with James Marsh
chrism225 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with dave
NaomiHart 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Richy Reed
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
timcussins 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Kiri
oliwarlow 25/Aug/09 2nd
with Nigel
SianR 06/Aug/09 2nd
with Ewie & Bryn
odox 22/Jul/09 2nd
andyhutch77 04/Jul/09 Lead
with Marc Tomlinson
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
petegunn 21/Jun/09 2nd
with Davina & Steve
stimpey 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Pete, Davina
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
hawkins321 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with rosie atkinson
Boxy 28/May/09 Lead O/S
oliwarlow 25/May/09 Lead
with Leonie
jonny taylor 02/May/09 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
arctic_jen 26/Apr/09 2nd
with Dan
Daniel Sutherland 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Chris
cat22 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Mike
Daniel Sutherland ??/2009 2nd rpt
with Mal
odox ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Sam Webb
Simnel ??/2009 2nd
with Mads
Phill_ Thompson ??/2009 Lead
dazbarker 24/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Pete Davis
Andy DB 18/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Ash
Peter Holder 01/Sep/08 TR
7om ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Morish
Daniel Sutherland 23/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Chris
Peter Holder 07/Aug/08 TR
Fabian001 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Adam Thorpe
andrew sandercock 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with jon armstrong
pwrenwick 29/Jun/08 Lead

Got it!

with Tony Forster
jonny taylor 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Led on Paul's gear up to the crux. Got established on the face ok, but could have been a lot smoother!

with Paul
daveagriff 07/Jun/08 Lead
with Steve Hill
andyandy 04/Jun/08 Lead
with Ross
AMarchant 11/May/08 Lead O/S

An pretty awkward move out from the overhang but well protected and an enjoyable finish.

with Andy Norton
Daniel Sutherland 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lindsay
ewan i ??/2008 Lead
thomaspassmore 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Jones
Claire S-J ?/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd
Will Hunt 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S


with Ed Pattison
Hidden 14/Oct/07 2nd O/S
MDowson 01/Oct/07 Lead

very nice route, great first move to establish yourself on the face

with polly
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Adam1973 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Big Ian
tomcorley55 07/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Mark Duggan
Mark D 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S
shouter ?/Sep/07 Lead
victim of mathematics 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/07 2nd
subflux 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S


with Bill Wright
jonka ?/Jul/07 2nd
with sean
Sam Judson 10/Jun/07 Lead rpt

Finally led it, wicked!

with Caroline Judson
simonfife 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Phil Steadman
duzinga 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Martina
MDowson 05/May/07 2nd
with Tom pitchforth
Dane 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Great climb Great gear

with John
telemark ??/2007 Lead
nic42 17/Aug/06 Lead
with dru
snowcat 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Belayed by Phil Steadman with Steve Orrell coming up third and being official photographer (pics to follow). A conspiracy to send me up this route I still think. A hard move up from the pillar beneath the overhang onto the face. The best way is to move out onto the face (by shuffling around) rather than thugging around beneath the overhang to then drag yourself up. Its still a strenuous move of the "ankle up by your shoulder" type so beloved of Whin Sill. Despite the consipracy very pleased to lead it successfully without too much faffing about (and pleased to get to place my monster Itialian friend in the big crack). Truly a good night out.

with Steve Orrell
chris2451 25/Jul/06 2nd RP
Hidden 24/Jul/06 2nd
K Wall 09/Jul/06 -
with Martin
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dj_brigham05 ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
leeksi ?/Jul/06 TR O/S
shouter ?/Jul/06 TR
Sam Judson 28/Jun/06 TR O/S

Need to lead this now :)

with Rob Say
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Colin Matheson 10/Jun/06 2nd

Struggled to follow

with Charlie Fisher
CurlyStevo ??/2006 Lead

The high step is not obligatory, I used a Jam and some smearing to get my right foot up. Seems like either most people climb it under the overhang in a way that doesn't work for me, or that there has been some kind of rock fall/dislodgement which has affected the climb (based on the polish). Certainly felt like a 5a move either way. After that it is straightforward 4b/4c climbing. Good gear.

smollett ?/Oct/05 Lead
with channy, oliver
Sankey ?/Sep/05 2nd

Very awkward.

with Luke
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 24/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
Andy Graham ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Steve Anderson
Gustav ??/2005 2nd O/S
with James H
snowy owl 30/Aug/04 2nd
with Neil Rutherford
Hidden 16/Jun/04 2nd
GPN ?/Jun/04 Lead
Urgles ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Fiend
gripped01 ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Bohl
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
stuart100 ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Steve Crowe ??/2000 Lead O/S

circa 2000 possibly before too.

with KM
Hidden 05/Apr/99 Lead
stewart murray ??/1997 Lead
with Cameron Leckie
biggianthead 08/May/94 -
with HT
kato'sdad 10/Sep/91 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
Tony Little 06/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with DK and SG
malc 05/Jun/91 Lead
cornishmackem ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Tim Cogdon
Gary Coggon 24/Jun/80 Lead O/S

2nd: Nigel

Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
babymoac 27/Jul/79 -
Lord of Starkness ?/Jul/78 Lead O/S
with Dave Bowen
Hidden ??/1978 -
beaumap ??/1977 Lead
with Peter Camp
greenbuoy ?/May/76 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1973 -
granitbahn ??/1970 AltLd
RichardMc 17/Jun/69 Lead
with Ian Broome
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
J D Bird, mike_tamanawis, westleas, DanChad, Hidden, Hidden, atthedropofahat, Hidden, Beano, Hidden, mussonlr, Hidden, Hidden, Matt Poole, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, topsafari, MG50, simonfife
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 45
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set