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Pinnacle Face*** VS 4c

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Pinnacle Face Obverse >>
[Yes folks its the "ankle by your elbow" move.  Not particularly elegant but that's how its really done, 2 kb]One of the classics of the crag with spectacular and photogenic positions. Start on the left (or by climbing over the pinnacle) and tackle the roof at the top of the initial groove - direct is thuggy, on the right is technical. The exposed face above gives a superb finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?.

Photo: Yes folks its the "ankle by your elbow" move. Not particularly elegant but that's how its really done © Steve Orrell
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 200 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

great climb, real struggle at crux, but finally muscled my way past it.
Sciguy - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/14 with tris, John Wilson

Sciguy - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/14 with John Wilson

Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14

Brilliant route, the move up the overhang is easy but committed.
y2keable - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/14 with John

Hidden - Lead - Jul/14

Chris Huntington - 2nd β - 20/Jun/14

Think I must have stepped out too early to really appreciate it... not a huge fan.
Tom McCabe - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Andrei Markin

Harry William Brook - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Claire

ClimbingGlen - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Ana Piris, Teresa Torrents

Simnel - Lead - 17/May/14 with Tony S

K Wall - 2nd - 17/May/14 with jill

MikeLell - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Jonny

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/13

cosmicray - AltLd - 08/Sep/13 with Dave Ferguson.

Hidden - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13

Awesome, took a while to work out the move but lovly when committed.
peter.ravenscroft27 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Matt Gatley

Gatley - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

Simnel - Lead - 26/Jun/13 with Andy H

Bit of a one-move wonder. Top face is much easier than it looks
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Cath Sullivan

Hidden - Lead β - 02/Jun/13

Great route but it is essentially a one-move wonder, no harder than 4c.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Mike Mason, Luke Cullum

08nbrierley - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with sophie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13

andybirtwistle - 2013

malteserEd - Lead - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Matt Poole - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Scottmeister

Mark on lead
dasc - TR - 11/Aug/12 with mark

Great stuff, worth the wait. Shame about the dead bird in the wide crack near the top!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Carmen

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/12

Took the technical route. Two falls at the crux
Richard Alderton - Lead dog - 10/Aug/12 with Liam

Dervey - 2nd - 10/Aug/12 with Rich

mjackson - 2nd - 15/Jul/12

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/12

Great belay spot at the top!
vertigo - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Dash

lcullum7 - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Ben Barnard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

JonG - 2012

Dervey - 2012

cballard - 2012

ed.burton - Lead dog - 05/Nov/11 with Henry Häkkinen

Next time i lead
adamjc13 - 2nd - 30/Sep/11 with Paolo Thige

malteserEd - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

y2keable - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11 with John

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Drew(yes im magic) - 2nd - 20/Aug/11 with Ian Brown

KevB - Lead - 03/Aug/11 with Tony P

MoWalker3 - 31/Jul/11 with Toni

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Jul/11

Liam Martin - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/11 with David Cowley

David Cowley - Lead - 12/Jul/11 with Liam Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Took quite a while to figure out how i was going to get established on the face.
duncman - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with oli

Climbed over the pinnacle then moved onto the face, they way it must be done! Found the thuggy move through the roof hard, but I am not a thug, so prob 5a is fair.
ablackett - Lead dog - 01/Jun/11 with Andy Wallace

Liam Martin - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Aaron Duke

Liam Martin - 2nd rpt - 24/May/11 with Gary Brumwell

Aaron Duke - 2nd dog - 24/May/11 with Liam Martin

gazb - Lead - 24/May/11 with liam martin

davewsargent - Lead - 21/May/11

jshields - Lead - 21/May/11 with Ed James

chris smith - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

joscott - 2nd - 20/May/11 with chris S, Chris Smith

Via the right-hand face rather than the thuggy crack.
graphiclunarkid - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Huw

josephgrimwade - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Peter Stollery

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Sarah Hawker

sarah hawker - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/11 with Adrian W

Adamski1986 - TR O/S - Apr/11 with Richard Gage

Ben lad - 2011 with chrissie andy rasputan, rambo and justin

Wayne A - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Karen Pickering

Great climb. Reckon the crux is a well protected 5a though.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Katherine Shaw

AndyT1151 - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/10

Em66 - Lead - 30/Jul/10 with Jack uni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10

Fergus backed away from the lead, I then top roped to get gear out. Great climb!
brayg01 - TR O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Fergus

Hidden - Solo - 17/Jun/10

jonb23 - 2nd - 17/Jun/10 with Louis Wallace

Afraid I wasn't up to the crux move - had to use 1 pt of aid. Boo!
Rog Wilko - 2nd - 31/May/10

Simnel - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Paul Carruthers

Daniel Sutherland - Lead rpt - 22/May/10 with Chris

Bit polished in places these days. Shame.
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Lucian Peterca

Hidden - 2nd β - 24/Apr/10

VS 4c bang on.
David Bulley - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Andy Chisholm

Went right at the 'roof' and avoided the 'thuggish' jamming - which is unusual for me. Delightful exposure on the final wall.
Falko - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Matthew Rech

clairepoppett - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with James R

Chriswallis2 - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Beef Cake

Christopher Roberts - Lead - 2010

Great reachy move up onto the face (perhaps more like 5a?). Shame it is a one move wonder route though.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Laura Wright

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09

WendyT - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/09 with James Marsh

chrism225 - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with dave

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Richy Reed

Hidden - Sep/09

timcussins - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Kiri

oliwarlow - 2nd - 25/Aug/09 with Nigel

SianR - 2nd - 06/Aug/09 with Ewie & Bryn

odox - 2nd - 22/Jul/09 with Tom Pitchforth

andyhutch77 - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Marc Tomlinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/09

petegunn - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with Davina & Steve

stimpey - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Pete, Davina

hawkins321 - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with rosie atkinson

Boxy - Lead O/S - 28/May/09

oliwarlow - Lead - 25/May/09 with Leonie

jonny taylor - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Dave

dpmUK - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Jen

arctic_jen - 2nd - 26/Apr/09 with Dan

Daniel Sutherland - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Chris

cat22 - 2nd - 25/Apr/09 with Mike

Daniel Sutherland - 2nd rpt - 2009 with Mal

odox - 2nd O/S - 2009 with Sam Webb

Simnel - 2nd - 2009 with Mads

dazbarker - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/08 with Pete Davis

Andy DB - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/08 with Ash

Peter Holder - TR - 01/Sep/08

7om - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Chris Morish

Daniel Sutherland - 2nd rpt - 23/Aug/08 with Chris

Peter Holder - TR - 07/Aug/08

Fabian001 - 2nd - 13/Jul/08 with Adam Thorpe

andrew sandercock - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with jon armstrong

Got it!
pwrenwick - Lead - 29/Jun/08 with Tony Forster

Led on Paul's gear up to the crux. Got established on the face ok, but could have been a lot smoother!
jonny taylor - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Paul

daveagriff - Lead - 07/Jun/08 with Steve Hill

andyandy - Lead - 04/Jun/08 with Ross

An pretty awkward move out from the overhang but well protected and an enjoyable finish.
AMarchant - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Andy Norton

Daniel Sutherland - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Lindsay

ewan i - Lead - 2008

thomaspassmore - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Dave Jones

Claire S-J - 2nd - Nov/07

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Oct/07

Nice
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Ed Pattison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/07

very nice route, great first move to establish yourself on the face
MDowson - Lead - 01/Oct/07 with polly

Hidden - Lead - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/07

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Big Ian

tomcorley55 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Mark Duggan

Mark D - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Tom Corley

shouter - Lead - Sep/07

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/07

Amazing!
subflux - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Bill Wright

jonka - 2nd - Jul/07 with sean

Finally led it, wicked!
Sam Judson - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/07 with Caroline Judson

simonfife - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Phil Steadman

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Martina

MDowson - 2nd - 05/May/07 with Tom pitchforth

Great climb Great gear
Dane - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with John

Hidden - Lead - 2007

nic42 - Lead - 17/Aug/06 with dru

Belayed by Phil Steadman with Steve Orrell coming up third and being official photographer (pics to follow). A conspiracy to send me up this route I still think. A hard move up from the pillar beneath the overhang onto the face. The best way is to move out onto the face (by shuffling around) rather than thugging around beneath the overhang to then drag yourself up. Its still a strenuous move of the "ankle up by your shoulder" type so beloved of Whin Sill. Despite the consipracy very pleased to lead it successfully without too much faffing about (and pleased to get to place my monster Itialian friend in the big crack). Truly a good night out.
snowcat - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/06 with Steve Orrell

chris2451 - 2nd RP - 25/Jul/06 with David Brigham

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/06

K Wall - 09/Jul/06 with Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Chris Thain

leeksi - TR O/S - Jul/06 with Dave Brigham

shouter - TR - Jul/06

Need to lead this now :)
Sam Judson - TR O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Rob Say

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06

Struggled to follow
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 10/Jun/06 with Charlie Fisher

The high step is not obligatory, I used a Jam and some smearing to get my right foot up. Seems like either most people climb it under the overhang in a way that doesn't work for me, or that there has been some kind of rock fall/dislodgement which has affected the climb (based on the polish). Certainly felt like a 5a move either way. After that it is straightforward 4b/4c climbing. Good gear.
CurlyStevo - Lead - 2006

smollett - Lead - Oct/05 with channy, oliver

Very awkward.
Sankey - 2nd - Sep/05 with Luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/05 with Dan Bailey

Andy Graham - 2nd O/S - 2005 with Steve Anderson

snowy owl - 2nd - 30/Aug/04 with Neil Rutherford

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/04

GPN - Lead - Jun/04 with Mehmet Karatay

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with Fiend

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Jul/02 with Martin Bohl

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/02

stuart100 - Lead O/S - Jun/00 with Claire Graham

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/99

stewart murray - Lead - 1997 with Cameron Leckie

biggianthead - 08/May/94 with HT

kato'sdad - Lead - 10/Sep/91 with Jerry Mattinson

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/91 with DK and SG

malc - Lead - 05/Jun/91

cornishmackem - Lead O/S - Jul/82 with Tim Cogdon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Chris Craggs - 1980

THE
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 1980 with Bog

babymoac - 27/Jul/79

Lord of Starkness - Lead O/S - Jul/78 with Dave Bowen

beaumap - Lead - 1977 with Peter Camp

greenbuoy - Lead - May/76

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 1973

granitbahn - AltLd - 1970

RichardMc - Lead - 17/Jun/69 with Ian Broome

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atthedropofahat, Hidden, Beano, Hidden, blackreaver, mussonlr, Hidden, Hidden, Matt Poole, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, topsafari, MG50, simonfife

Voting
Total votes cast 107
hard HVS0 of 37
HVS0 of 37
easy HVS2 of 37
hard VS7 of 37
VS27 of 37
easy VS1 of 37
hard HS0 of 37
HS0 of 37
easy HS0 of 37
hard 5a0 of 36
5a0 of 36
easy 5a14 of 36
hard 4c16 of 36
4c5 of 36
easy 4c1 of 36
hard 4b0 of 36
4b0 of 36
easy 4b0 of 36
3 Stars22 of 34
2 Stars12 of 34
1 Star0 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 200 (1.0%)
Lead107 of 200 (53.5%)
Followed66 of 200 (33.0%)
Toproped8 of 200 (4.0%)
Alt Leads2 of 200 (1.0%)
Unknown15 of 200 (7.5%)

'Climbed'90 of 200 (45.0%)
clean O/S89 of 200 (44.5%)
clean β3 of 200 (1.5%)
clean rpt10 of 200 (5.0%)
clean RP1 of 200 (0.5%)
dogged7 of 200 (3.5%)