Climb the left side of the slab to the overhang (good nuts), reach over to good
holds and traverse left, until a step up leads to the upper slab. The overhang can also be surmounted direct, using a good hold and heel hook ~ hard 5a. Moving up right, under the overhang, to join Mambo Slab, is Severe.

Keefy 03/Oct TR
hornbywill 15/Jul Solo O/S

Went direct. Soft 5a

Hidden 01/Jul Lead rpt
andrewmcleod 21/Jun Lead dnf

Failed once again; after one good look at the direct finish decided to go left but then didn't fancy the lack of gear and lack of obvious holds, so chickened out and bailed to the right. What is it about me and this (stupid) route! Seems hard for VS 4c but maybe that is because I haven't done it and because it is just one move, but there is very little protection up the lower slab (I got one nut in) and if you come off the overhang you are probably going to hit the slab below before the rope comes tight...

mdjb 06/Jun -
Phil79 17/May 2nd rpt
with Steve H
oscra.davenport 16/May Lead dnf
with Mark Killburn
EdwardB 07/May TR O/S
jimbob4004 07/May TR O/S
Davidchatterton 07/May TR O/S
with Adam Fraczek
Adamfraczek 07/May TR O/S
with David chatterton
lmacey 22/Apr -
Hidden 20/Apr Lead
bigbear86 ??/2015 Lead
John Sheehan 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Donald
crater 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with john
Jamo Walker 24/Sep/14 TR rpt
with Guy Jules
Jdawge1 24/Sep/14 TR RP
ThomasWitten 23/Sep/14 TR O/S
Pete Scott 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Took the severe out right as it looked more fun and less severe

phil456 04/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Graham M
fire_munki 15/Jul/14 2nd dog

Foot slipped traversing right for the direct finish.

Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead β
Matt Smith 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 -
Felix Ottey 01/Jun/14 Lead

Fun traverse felt bold

andrewmcleod 12/Apr/14 2nd dog

Tried the 'direct'; failed once again!

ShannonHocking 26/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead
ShannonHocking 11/Mar/14 TR
Hidden ??/2014 -
laura wilson 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The severe version (transversing right to Mambo slab) after not reading the topo right!

matthewpwilson 22/Sep/13 2nd

Did the Severe variation after Laura unintentionally diverged left on Mambo Slab.

with Laura
Little B 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

v tough for grade.

Stew nutter 06/Aug/13 TR rpt

Chose the easier overhand finish

with Helen
Dawlish 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Goblin direct - pulling straight over the roof

with Sasa, June
Hidden 30/May/13 2nd O/S
ellmang 26/May/13 Lead
Paraicj 25/May/13 2nd O/S
andrewmcleod 13/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead
petecallaghan 25/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim, Jamie Trump
Jamiet297 24/Apr/13 2nd dog

Should have put my shoes on for it

with Pete Callaghan, Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 24/Apr/13 2nd
Grabtheslab ?/Apr/13 -
Jonners 05/Mar/13 TR
Hidden 27/Feb/13 TR dnf
Hidden 26/Feb/13 TR O/S
Cheese Monkey 27/Jan/13 2nd rpt
with Ian M, Goss
MrWiggles 27/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
NathanTurnock29 ??/2013 TR O/S
Cheese Monkey 29/Nov/12 TR RP

5a finish - forceful mantle

with Shunt
SimonMarcYoung 28/Nov/12 Lead RP

tried the route when first climbing and bailed out of it wish i didnt try it then and ment i got it clean onsight today

Jordon Fleming 28/Nov/12 2nd rpt
benwhalley 01/Jun/12 2nd β
leadmat 26/May/12 Solo O/S
Westcorkman 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Alice Fuller
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
jackc 03/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with jordan
ChrisLamley1 03/Apr/12 Lead β
cwildblood 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt

took slight left traverse with heel hook over overhang rather than direct approach

ed2204 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
lmacey 31/Mar/12 Lead
lmacey 25/Mar/12 Lead
cwildblood 24/Mar/12 Lead β
sillysquiggle ?/Jan/12 2nd
MBarraclough ??/2012 Lead
Tristan Sherlock 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with George Coiley
angie 07/Nov/11 TR
p2-melhuish ?/Oct/11 Lead
gidmord 12/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mike hooper 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with dave dean
martin clarke 02/Aug/11 2nd
with james dell, chris floss_81
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
Cheese Monkey 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Bit of a one move wonder

Jordon Fleming 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

secoded and was really easy with just 1 hard move.

alice fuller ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Joby
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Aaron Phillips 25/Apr/11 TR dog


with my dad
MatthParkinson 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom Seccombe
dmaldonado 06/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Mar/11 Lead
willsie ??/2011 TR
Neil Rigiani 22/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Julia belayed and lowered me again to strip the gear.

Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
Edward Turner 08/Aug/10 TR
Dave Cooke 07/Aug/10 2nd β
Orifice 03/Aug/10 2nd dog
Filthy 03/Aug/10 Lead
wilsonthewarrior ?/Aug/10 Lead

Took an almighty fall attempting the overhang, re-started and did the original route.

vertically_challenged 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S

fun route

Joby ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Robin Fraser
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead
mikeburf 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Took the direct '5a' finnish felt soft for VS and the 5a move was more like a 4b move?

Rob84 15/May/10 2nd O/S
stuart34 15/May/10 Lead O/S
chappers909 05/May/10 TR
Ade Lane 23/Apr/10 TR
Stephen kingston 23/Apr/10 TR

Took the 5a route directly over the overhang

luke13 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Naomi, Paul
paul1234 22/Apr/10 2nd
with luke
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Lewis Stewart 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Climbed with 5a direct finish

with Cameron
Will_Murray ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Olly got scared on the top out (slopy) he climbed down and I OS'd it with his gear placed....

naomibrazier ?/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Luke
richardadventurecafe 14/Mar/10 TR
stuntsbyjon 13/Mar/10 TR O/S
Tom Seccombe 03/Mar/10 TR O/S
TheLegoMan 03/Mar/10 TR O/S

very enjoyable with a good jug and good slopers, definatly one to repeat

dgreen ?/Feb/10 2nd dnf
JulesClimbs 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Keith
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
knthrak1982 09/Jun/09 TR O/S
Hidden 16/May/09 TR
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
graham knott 08/May/09 TR dog

Even more tricky than I remember!

with Ollie and Paula
rockferret 02/Apr/09 2nd dog

Tried the 5a move over the overhang, but failed. Finished by moving left and doing the standard route.

with Baz
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
JonHarvey 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Much better than it looks, great traverse left

Hidden 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd β
Reeges 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Popkids 23/Apr/08 2nd
with Kafoozalem
nikinko 22/Mar/08 2nd dog

attempted the 5a direct finish- lots of leaning on rope before retreating to the 4c finish. up for leading the easy finish soon.

with nolan
Hidden 19/Feb/08 -
ash smash ?/Feb/08 Lead rpt
g_quaglia ?/Jan/08 TR
Hidden ??/2008 -
nopants ??/2008 Lead
with Mike
El3ctroFuzz ?/Nov/07 TR O/S
with Duchy College Session
wildbill ?/Nov/07 TR
with Dartmoor Outdoor Person
nblackbeard 14/Oct/07 Lead β
with Marc McGarry
davefount 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S

with much faff with a tri cam, the traverse felt bold. My second VS lead

with lewis stewert
alaan 06/Jul/07 Solo O/S
jl 29/May/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 29/May/07 2nd O/S
with Jon
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead dnf
Epic Ebdon 04/May/07 2nd O/S
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 04/May/07 Lead O/S
SGD 04/May/07 Lead

found this quite bold - the upper slab above the overhang is a bit dirty. good climb.

with Jenny Upright
freelancer_85 28/Apr/07 Lead dnf
with Megan and Steve
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Phil79 ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Nix Ward 15/Oct/06 2nd dog
with 184Dave
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
nikinko 02/Aug/06 2nd dnf

couldn't make the hard move. lowered off.

with SDMC
jen232 16/Jul/06 TR dog
with Steve
sam coward 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Andy and Tom
Gareth ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Andrew
matthoey 27/Jun/06 TR
Hidden 23/May/06 Lead O/S
joeym ?/May/06 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
graham knott ??/2006 2nd β

Easy if you're a goblin!

with Phil Webber
jhawton ??/2006 Lead
jimjimmyjimjim 29/Oct/05 Lead O/S
thompson1000 13/Jul/05 Lead
Big Steve ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
size9hex ??/2004 Lead O/S


Hidden 19/Aug/03 Lead
Samuel P 28/May/03 2nd
with Kevin
Hidden 28/May/03 Lead
Ffej 25/May/03 2nd
Jason Gotel ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
Hidden 01/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 19/Jan/01 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
MartinN 29/Jul/00 2nd O/S
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/99 Lead O/S
sixties 08/Sep/97 -
with hrd
Hidden 02/Aug/96 Lead
Iain Thow 11/May/96 Lead

Via RH finish, S 4a

with Andy Hodges
Hidden 04/Nov/95 Lead
colin milton 05/Sep/93 Lead
with eric milton
tapley 10/Jul/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Mike C 03/Jul/82 2nd

Failed to lead

with Walter Phipps
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, Hidden, adam84, andrewmcleod, welsh boy, hamishclimb, hcaw
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 19
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set