UKC

65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long, diagonal expedition crossing the Morning Slab that is serious for both leader and second. Start by scrambling to a tree next to a yellow crumbling wall.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb easily to a cave and move right up a slab then pull into a groove on the right. Move up this and its right wall to an iron spike. Pull up the short steep wall to Breakfast Ledge and a withering tree belay plus low back-up nuts.
2) 4a, 27m. Move right to a vegetated corner and head out along a grass ledge before moving rightwards up the slab to a good, long foot ledge and peg. Shuffle along the ledge till it fades and then climb up the slab to bolt and tree belays.
3) 18m. Climb rightwards to a crack and head up it to reach Lunchtime Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Avon Gorge easier classics , The Avon Gorge Severe Challenge , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Lankcroft 27 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There was quite a bit of loose rock/vegetation on P1 - i guess it's been a wet winter and not many people will have been up it this year yet. I dislodged a fairly large block which was teetering, but there are plenty more where that came from.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There was quite a bit of loose rock/vegetation on P1 - i guess it's been a wet winter and not many people will have been up it this year yet. I dislodged a fairly large block which was teetering, but there are plenty more where that came from.

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High HVD
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High 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
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Votes cast 43
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Madiba

Grade: S 3b ***
(Black Rocks (Eastville Park))

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