Rockfax Description
A long, diagonal expedition crossing the Morning Slab that is serious for both leader and second. Start by scrambling to a tree next to a yellow crumbling wall.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb easily to a cave and move right up a slab then pull into a groove on the right. Move up this and its right wall to an iron spike. Pull up the short steep wall to Breakfast Ledge and a withering tree belay plus low back-up nuts.
2) 4a, 27m. Move right to a vegetated corner and head out along a grass ledge before moving rightwards up the slab to a good, long foot ledge and peg. Shuffle along the ledge till it fades and then climb up the slab to bolt and tree belays.
3) 18m. Climb rightwards to a crack and climb this to the Lunchtime Ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Tree belay at the start of pitch-2/end pitch-1 has gone to be replaced by two bolts.

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon sub-VSes, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS.

MGrock 25/Oct AltLd
Hidden 19/Sep Lead O/S
alastairbegley 19/Sep 2nd O/S
BStar 04/Aug AltLd rpt

P1 and P3

with Trevers
Trevers 04/Aug AltLd

Led the middle pitch. Have previously led the first pitch. Easy but very tense!

with BStar
Trevers 22/Jul Lead dnf

Retreated after the first pitch. Misled by the CC guidebook which suggested the route started from the Breakfast Ledge, which is actually the end of the first pitch. Having felt the 'scrambly approach' rather tough, we backed off without realising we'd done a pitch.

with Lara
ali.scott 17/Jun AltLd O/S
with Will A
WillAndrew 16/Jun AltLd O/S
with Ali
Angrypenguin 14/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead P1 + P3

with Cat
catty_9 14/Jun AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Pete went too high on pitch 1 and ended up in a bramble bush

Morgan Specht 28/May Lead O/S
malina 10/May Lead O/S

First multi-pitch trad lead (pitches 1,2 and 3). It'd totally fine to do 2+3 together.

ian.ross.bnc ?/May 2nd
philmcf ?/May Lead
Bobling 22/Apr AltLd

VA. Very Avon.

with Dave L
BStar 14/Apr AltLd O/S

P1 and P3

Hidden 14/Apr AltLd O/S
Fatclimber 12/Apr AltLd O/S

P2 - Easy but run out.

Deako 12/Apr AltLd
Larey 10/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 09/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
gavin.edwards 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Nialllusby 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3.

with Emma Ross
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/14 2nd
Kemics 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Had done pitches 1 and 3 as part of other routes already. Nice bolted stances must be a recent addition. Very welcome

with Mel
Melonfly 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Caleb
CallumSmith 02/Jul/14 AltLd
BB1 01/Jul/14 -

Veg-e-tated and very prickly, scratchy start, would benefit from pruning, as it's quite a nice climb/traverse. The first pitch has some interesting foot work.

with Alex Roberts
philmcf ?/May/14 AltLd O/S
alexporter 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Naomi Dalton
tc7118 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
AndySL 16/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Not a happy second. Abseiled from the bolts at the top of first pitch. I suppose it was a bit wet.

with Deano
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
George.Rowland 30/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one and three. I reckon that the first part of pitch two beneath the overhang is ~4a (in opposition to the cc guide)

with sam coppard
crossdressingrodney 08/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. After the horrible scramble to the start of the route, it actually becomes pretty good. The first pitch is really the crux and the run-out on the second pitch is nowhere near as bad as I had expected. Started just after rain, finished in the dark. Props to whoever put the action man in place.

with Andy B
avictimoftheDrpsycho 30/Sep/13 Solo O/S
saraguti 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with rick sewards
Nick Russell 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Ran p2+3 together with resultant communication difficulties. As the name suggests, most of p2 is a walk

with Emily
pheotleyr 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

A bit disappointing I thought. The cave looks interesting.

with Roman
laurence_falconer 10/Jun/13 2nd
with Ben Caley, Laura Shaw
laurashaw 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Cailey, laurence falconer
bencaley 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
KatOstrich 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, went to high and ended up in bramble bush

with Laurence
laurence_falconer 06/May/13 -
with Katherine Ostritch, Laura Shaw
laurashaw 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with Katherine Ostritch, laurence falconer
Hidden 03/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs ??/2013 Lead O/S
Robertspd2 ??/2013 2nd
thomasadixon 27/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Stuart William 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P 1&3 - Pleb P 2 - Me Didn't spot the bolts to realise I was meant to go upwards and carried on traversing until reaching some saplings just above and left of the belay of Sinister and Clarion. The last few metres before the belay, after the ledge was long gone, felt a fair bit harder than 4a for sure but still really nice climbing and fairly exciting.

with Pleb
Pleb 15/Sep/12 AltLd
with 2PointO
Hidden 11/Jul/12 Lead
George Frisby 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Chris
stafford101 20/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead O/S
Monk 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

I lead P2+3 together. Really nice route.

with Luke Vincent
pffft 08/Apr/12 AltLd β

Having done the first two pitches a couple of times, finally nice to have finished it up the third pitch. (First time rained hard mid route so abbed off, second time as first two pitches of Gurgle Girdle)

with Monkey
George Frisby 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Stanners 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Very dusty holds on the first pitch but as good as ever second pitch. Fair play to Andy with the swing potential and this being his like 5th ever route.

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
wildrover220 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
stafford101 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

An awesome route with gear where its needed. Linked pitches 2 and 3 together.

R_W_M 25/Feb/12 2nd

P1 covered in dirt, dust and deceased plant life, producing one of my least pleasant climbing experiences ever - possibly due to some of the clearing thats been going on lately?

with Todd
TDembrey 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Rob
Clay C 03/Feb/12 AltLd dnf

The slab on the second pitch was covered in ice, so we had to ab off the tree.

with Louise
bonoid ??/2012 AltLd
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
Hidden 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
pffft 05/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Turned rather wet mid second pitch making it especially treacherous for the second. Called a hasty retreat once second had made it across traverse.

with Jojo Mills
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Egons Issy 17/Aug/11 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
Slick 16/Aug/11 Lead
jameslam 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Thorneycroft
Stanley 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Stanners 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

great fun with big swing potential for both leader and 2nd but it would be pretty hard to fall off.

with Martin Stanfield
cwildblood 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

darren led pitch 1, i led pitches 2 & 3 , 2nd pitch favourite with very enjoyable traverse allowing view whole gorge

Dave Ing 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

P1 from the first part of rock (before the cave) until Breakfast Ledge, P2 past the bolts to the tree below Lunchtime Ledge then a short scramble up.

with Bridgette, Rachel
BB1 16/Jun/11 2nd

Some dodgy rock at the start but I enjoyed the foot work. A good exercise in traversing :)

with Dave Ing
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead G/U
kelliroberts3 25/May/11 AltLd O/S
Rory Southworth 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Did it in two pitches, very nice climb.

Clay C 25/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Pete Rigby 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Night Climb

Quarryboy 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Good route, like the section on the slab nice and technical. Good fun.

with Jack Treble
31770 ??/2011 -
sofe13 01/Nov/10 Lead

Lead the 3 pitches, was an easy climb though poorly protected and a very overgrown start.

with Gof
TDembrey 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Dodgy route finding at the start, but route was found after some time. Nice route, well worth the climb.

with Clay
Clay C 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd pitch - nice climb

with Todd
PaulWatson 04/May/10 AltLd O/S

Chose something benign, technically a snip, but quite daunting exposure for a severe especially when thinking about protecting the second on pitch 2.

with Ian K
Rob Exile Ward ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Ward
brices ??/2010 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Took a higher tricky line traversing from the cave to arrive on a higher ledge. Skipped the belay on the slab (drag) after stupidly dropping the guidebook. A splendid lunch on lunchtime ledge. A great day!

with Kat
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead
Quirina 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Poco Loco 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S

The second pitch is critically low on gear. Careful! Fun climb though.

with James Gray
mullermn 12/May/09 Lead O/S

Dawn Walk in the park ;)

Hidden 12/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
PerrinT ??/2009 2nd
climbingxcat ??/2009 -
with Brian
PaulWatson 08/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 & 3 - included climb to cave in pitch 1

with Dan
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Tom Last 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Easy, but a bit heart-in-mouth. Great route.

with Clive
beardy mike 26/Apr/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Circus 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Traverse pitch. Superb.

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

led 1 + 3. superb indeed

with Adam
Humpty Dangler 13/Oct/07 AltLd

Was mostly dry by 3pm, damp and mud on the ledges detracted from the enjoyment, still a nice route. The 4a move on pitch 1 is a delicate step around a wide rib, hanging from a jug. The best bit is pitch 2, a long traverse under the massive roof. A narrow ledge is attained early and followed, disconcertingly downwards, until it fizzles out, whereupon some moves up the slab gain ancient rusty bolts. Protection is not great and you need to trust your shoes, mud and damp didn't help. I used the bolts as back-up for some wires and a fat sling around the tree. Pitch 3 finishes easily up an obvious crack to lunchtime ledge. Topped out with Direct Route, which is always a pleasure.

No-chalk Nailer 13/Oct/07 AltLd

Very nice!

philkerswell 13/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 - 18m - 4A - Neil lead Pitch 2 - 27m - Neil Lead That long traverse across the crack is an easy walk, but no protection til you read the old (and apparently untrustworthy) bolt. As ledge runs out, go UP! Pitch 3 - 18m - PK lead (up to Lunchtime Ledge then we did Direct Route)

with Neil
Hidden 13/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
JamieAyres 18/Aug/07 Lead rpt

An evening amble up to Lunchtime Ledge. Abb'ed off.

Caralynh 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3

Hidden 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
maybe_si 15/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with charlie
Richard Hall 15/Apr/07 AltLd

Mark led the first pitch, I led the other 2. Have led the first pitch in the past with Ian Hawkins.

with Mark Jackson
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
JamieAyres 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/06 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with unknown
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
five ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Epic Ebdon 20/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Jesse Dufton 20/Apr/05 Lead
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2005 -
mol 25/Nov/04 AltLd
with Dave
Lev 11/Jul/03 Lead rpt
with Claire Durant
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Paz ??/2003 AltLd
with SN
Lev 12/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Tom Elliot
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
gimmer ??/2001 -
jim_randell 26/Feb/00 AltLd rpt
with MB
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden 06/Oct/99 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/98 2nd
Tombauer 17/Aug/98 Lead
jim_randell 07/Jun/98 AltLd rpt
with PS
Jim Brooke 02/May/96 Lead O/S
with James Latham
colin milton 06/Apr/96 AltLd
with eric milton
jim_randell 28/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with RL
chris sm 29/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
with Martin Sime
Hidden 26/Mar/95 Lead
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
tombeasley ??/1995 AltLd
jim_randell 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with WW
Hidden 04/Jun/89 AltLd
leland stamper ?/Apr/89 Lead rpt
with Martin
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
Mayaculpa ?/May/86 2nd

Exciting as the edge disappears and the prospects of a big swing 'dawn' on you

with Stephen Munro Ruddick
mark-abz 20/Oct/85 AltLd
with Charlie G
Richard Weller 19/May/84 Solo
Richard Weller 19/May/84 Solo
charlesmfrench 05/Apr/84 Solo O/S
JamieAyres ?/Jan/84 Lead rpt

new year's day I think?

wynaptomos ?/Nov/83 Lead O/S
andy tetsill ?/Jun/83 Lead
with Manchester Poly
JamieAyres ?/Oct/82 2nd O/S

bristol poly CC outing

Hidden ?/Aug/82 Solo
AlanLittle ??/1982 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/81 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/81 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/81 2nd
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/81 AltLd
with John Walmsley
stp 09/May/81 Lead O/S

Lead or soloed all pitches at different times.

leland stamper ??/1981 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/1981 -
Nevil ??/1979 -

Do not know correct year

Hidden ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/75 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/May/75 Lead
with Norman
Bolt Phobia 28/Mar/75 AltLd
Hidden 15/Mar/75 2nd O/S
tapley 13/Mar/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Nigel Bond 19/Aug/73 Lead
with John
Andy Chubb ??/1973 -
with Phil Jardine
Hidden ??/1972 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1970 2nd
Gordon Stainforth 10/Oct/69 AltLd
with Chris West
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
oldmanofmow ??/1958 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jalien, Hidden, Rebs, purpledistorsion, Hidden, alexporter, Hidden, ron244, Hidden
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Style of ascent
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