UKC

6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fun way up the best cliff at Tremadog. Pitch 2 is a bit of a mud-fest, but is more than compensated for by the upper pitches. The final teeter along the flake is a feast of exposure. Start below Vector Buttress and move down and round to the left from the start of One Step in the Clouds to below a rising line of weakness.
1) 10m. Climb directly up the steep blocky groove to an awkward exit rightwards to gain the huge tree and a ledge.
2) 20m. Traverse left from the tree along the ledge, passing a single awkward step to gain a muddy, grassy ledge. Follow this for 10m to gain a good tree belay.
3) 25m. Climb cracks directly above the belay to gain some good tree-root holds and a commodious tree (possible belay). Climb the crack straight above the tree with a tough move to gain the ledge at the top. Move right and teeter up the slab to another tree belay.
4) 18m. Traverse right from the belay to gain slabby ground out on the nose and a junction with One Step in the Clouds. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely-looking flake hanging in space. Mantel on to the ledge - optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List

Feedback

User Date Notes
agour 11 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the maniac below, there is definitely not S/HS/VS moves on this.
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βeta: Ignore the maniac below, there is definitely not S/HS/VS moves on this.
jackiartist 25 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely doesn\'t need to be done as 6 pitches. With Emma and Kelly. Doubled up each pitch and took one each. Me P 5&6.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely doesn't need to be done as 6 pitches. With Emma and Kelly. Doubled up each pitch and took one each. Me P 5&6.
locksbury 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: While a \"VDiff\", there\'s moves on there similar to S/HS/VS. So take the \"traditional\" VDiff approach and think of it as the \"Little Chamonix of Tremadog\". :)
βeta?
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βeta: While a "VDiff", there's moves on there similar to S/HS/VS. So take the "traditional" VDiff approach and think of it as the "Little Chamonix of Tremadog". :)
spragglerocks 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The rockfax description of the start is rubbish. Should just say, P1: climb the chimney (as for one step in the clouds) as per the definitive.
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βeta: The rockfax description of the start is rubbish. Should just say, P1: climb the chimney (as for one step in the clouds) as per the definitive.
jason reeve 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for wasp nest @ end of first pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Watch out for wasp nest @ end of first pitch

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Votes cast 150
Votes cast 148
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hope

Grade: VD ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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