Gargantua*** E1 5b
[Gargantua - Pitch 1, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A wild expedition up the curving left arete of the main corner. Start below the steep wall, right of a large red corner..
1) 5a, 12m. From some sandy red rock at the base of the crag, move up the right wall on good, but suspect holds to a wide crack, large cam, that ends at a large ledge and belay..
2) 5b, 16m. Climb the groove above and move up left to a rest. Climb up the steep left side of the arete and then step right to the arete. Pull into a large sloping belay-niche. An exposed spot..
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse rightwards out of the niche and pull up and then left into a corner below another overhang. Finish direct. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs, UK Extreme Corners.

Photo: Gargantua - Pitch 1 © Justin T
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 27/May/15 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/15

Lead p1 and p2 in one. Matt last pitch three with a terrifying traverse of the belay.
richardashe - AltLd O/S - 22/May/15

cheeky - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Graham Westbrook

Ran the 1st 2 pitches together.
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Matt Payne

Need to finish off the 3rd pitch
kennythescot - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/15 with Luke Robinson

darcan - AltLd - 18/Jan/15 with nick

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/15 with Darcan

Joughton - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/14

first two pitches in a oner needed more quick draws for the top
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

Nice climb, I took first pitch (look out for loose rock!)
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14

Martin led as 1 pitch, sustained.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Martin Haworth

Climbed it as a single pitch, fantastic route worth 3 stars.
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Andy

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/13 with Pete H

Did it in one pitch
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/13

Struggled on the moves in the groove and had to rest on the peg, but steep moves after are straight forward. Led p1 and P2
Mr Tickle - AltLd dog - 11/Jul/13 with Will

Luke lead pitch one and two and I lead the third - this was steep aand exposed but on great holds and good gear. Really pleased to get this done. Back to lead first pitches soon.
Motown - AltLd β - 11/Jul/13 with Luke

Georgia H - 2nd - Jul/13

Broke three bits of rock off. First a foot hold but held it. Then a hand hold which caused me to fall and my gear to rip more rock out resulting in a ground fall luckily only minor injuries thanks to my first bit of gear holding. First ever trad fall!!
leo-z-g - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/13

Led 1st pitch
gripped01 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Jim Jarvis

Only first pitch but better than last attempt! Next time
Motown - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/12 with Luke

Excellent. Should have done it in 1 pitch.
Dave Rumney - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Tanya Milner

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Caroline

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Marti

Marti999 - 2nd rpt - 21/Jan/12 with Ed Babington

Motown - Lead dnf - 26/Dec/11

burto - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with hertha

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11

Got attacked by nesting sea-gulls and took a rest on gear. Pesky flying rats!
Fultonius - AltLd dog - 23/May/11 with Burnsie

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11 with Stuart Burns, Ally F

M Bryan - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with Dan Walker

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10

worth a star
misterb - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with wain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/09

twright180 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 17/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

nopants - AltLd - 2009 with Thom

Sustained route on quality rock. A touch butch in places! Possibly worth 3 stars.
richardr - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/08

Led P3. Had previously done P1&2 but backed off P3.
Justin T - AltLd - 12/Aug/08 with Rich

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 30/May/08 with Kafoozalem

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07 with Bruce

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/07

A steady route of great quality, with amazing exposure
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Alan Royle

Led P1&2 as one (first belay currently an occupied seagull's nest...) then retreated up Gates after a couple of attempts at figuring the route for P3 traverse when rain set in. Nice route - bit of a strenuous start.
Justin T - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Jul/07

AJH - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Crispin

climber sim - 2007

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with sim

leadmat - Lead O/S - 2006 with Graham Fleury

Hidden - 04/Jun/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

alan moore - 2000

colin milton - Lead - 10/Jul/94 with eric milton and s blagdon

Simon cook - 1994

Thought it fairly serious at the time
Nick Biven - AltLd O/S - Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/90

ecowaller - 1990

Hammy - AltLd - 02/Oct/88 with Colin Struthers

shark - AltLd - 03/Jan/87 with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/84

Steve Bell - 1976 with Chris Gibson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, graham knott, northnorthnorth, Pylon King Against Capit@lism

Total votes cast 32
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E14 of 16
E110 of 16
easy E12 of 16
hard HVS0 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 1
5c0 of 1
easy 5c0 of 1
hard 5b0 of 1
5b1 of 1
easy 5b0 of 1
hard 5a0 of 1
5a0 of 1
easy 5a0 of 1
3 Stars5 of 15
2 Stars10 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat