Devon > Daddyhole Main Cliff >
 
Gargantua* E1 5b,5a

Adjacent Climbs
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[Gargantua - Pitch 1, 3 kb]A wild expedition up the curving left arete of the main corner. Start below the steep wall, right of a large red corner.. 1) 5a, 12m. From some sandy red rock at the base of the crag, move up the right wall on good, but suspect holds to a wide crack, large cam, that ends at a large ledge and belay.. 2) 5b, 16m. Climb the groove above and move up left to a rest. Climb up the steep left side of the arete and then step right to the arete. Pull into a large sloping belay-niche. An exposed spot.. 3) 5a, 12m. Traverse rightwards out of the niche and pull up and then left into a corner below another overhang. Finish direct. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Gargantua - Pitch 1 © quadmyre
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Only first pitch but better than last attempt! Next time
Will Cat - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/12 with Luke

Excellent. Should have done it in 1 pitch.
Dave Rumney - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Tanya Milner

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Caroline

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Marti

Marti999 - 2nd rpt - 21/Jan/12 with Ed Babington

Spanked.
Will Cat - Lead dnf - 26/Dec/11

burto - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with hertha

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11

Got attacked by nesting sea-gulls and took a rest on gear. Pesky flying rats!
Fultonius - AltLd dog - 23/May/11 with Burnsie

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 23/May/11 with Stuart Burns, Ally F

worth a star
misterb - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with wain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/09

twright180 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 17/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

nopants - AltLd - 2009 with Thom

Sustained route on quality rock. A touch butch in places! Possibly worth 3 stars.
richardr - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/08

Led P3. Had previously done P1&2 but backed off P3.
quadmyre - AltLd - 12/Aug/08 with Rich

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 30/May/08 with Pete Saunders

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07 with Bruce

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/07

A steady route of great quality, with amazing exposure
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Alan Royle

Led P1&2 as one (first belay currently an occupied seagull's nest...) then retreated up Gates after a couple of attempts at figuring the route for P3 traverse when rain set in. Nice route - bit of a strenuous start.
quadmyre - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Jul/07

AJH - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Crispin

climber sim - 2007

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with sim

leadmat - Lead O/S - 2006 with Graham Fleury

Hidden - 04/Jun/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

colin milton - Lead - 10/Jul/94 with eric milton and s blagdon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/90

ecowaller - 1990

Hammy - AltLd - 02/Oct/88 with Colin Struthers

shark - AltLd - 03/Jan/87 with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo

The first two pitches can be done in one pitch. The first section is thuggy and 5a. A Hex 11 is quite helpful here.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/84 with Wendy Goodyer

Hidden - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Will Cat, Hidden, graham knott, northnorthnorth, The Pylon King
Voting
Total votes cast 16
hard E20 of 8
E20 of 8
easy E20 of 8
hard E10 of 8
E16 of 8
easy E12 of 8
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
3 Stars1 of 8
2 Stars7 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 38 (42.1%)
Followed5 of 38 (13.2%)
Alt Leads13 of 38 (34.2%)
Unknown4 of 38 (10.5%)

'Climbed'13 of 38 (34.2%)
clean O/S19 of 38 (50.0%)
clean rpt1 of 38 (2.6%)
dogged1 of 38 (2.6%)
dnf4 of 38 (10.5%)