95m. The obvious gully separating the Garadh from Tower ridge, which can be clearly seen from the CIC hut.

In lean or early season conditions it can give two good ice pitches of around grade III standard, later on it can bank out into a steep snow slope. A good climb for a short day, or it can be used as an approach to higher climbs.

The climb is around 4 pitches long, the guidebook length is rather short!

I Clough and M Burke 16/Feb/1958

Ticklists: Ben Nevis Gully Climbs.

Captain Solo 02/Apr Solo rpt

Finished up some nice ice on the left wall.

Matthew Martin Wsm 16/Mar 2nd O/S

ian lead, we soled first pitch, cold and windy day, took 3 hours 30 to get to climb, coming down was much quicker we went wrong way and had to traverse solo about 200m to get in to the cwm below climb, ended up a long day!

with Ash payne, ian marshall
Hidden 14/Mar Solo
Dougbart 14/Mar Solo
with Iain
davkeo 10/Mar Solo O/S

Good ice and enjoyable as approach to higher stuff.

cearbhalld 10/Mar Solo O/S
TAG_UTLEY 17/Feb Solo O/S

in ascent and descent. One very icy pitch, otherwise not too firm, or too soft ,but def not neve. On descent by afternoon/evening, very soft, water dripping off rocks, and not looking too stable either. Attempted routes higher up, but snow was incredibly soft and made very slow progress.

with Colin
LJKing 15/Feb Solo O/S
with Adrian Botting
keith hal 14/Feb AltLd O/S

Good conditons. Plenty of ice.

with Tim
timday 14/Feb AltLd rpt

A repeat of one of, if not the first, grade IIs I ever did. More ice than I remember last time; started with four ice screws racked; next pitch got the other two out of the pack and made use of all of them. Lovely route. Shortly after topping out on the Garadh, saw someone take a nasty fall off Comb Gully Buttress and assisted them down to a heli pickup from Coire na Ciste (putting us in a nice position to go on up to Moonlight Gully).

with KeithH
Lawrie Brand 10/Feb Solo O/S
with Mark Stevenson
boyson 09/Feb 2nd
joese7en 08/Feb -
skirton 06/Feb Solo

Used as approach for Glover's Chimney. Good neve

seanhendo123 06/Feb Solo O/S

Used as an approach for Glovers chimney. I lead kicking steps all the way, hard work! Mix of powder snow with a crust and a fair bit of neve

with Sarah
alan barnes 03/Jan AltLd
with tom sylvester, julie baum
michaelb1 20/Dec/14 -

2 excellent ice pitches

with M Tighe
manwithacam 09/Mar/14 Solo

Very banked out, en route to glovers chimney

with khalidq
khalidq 09/Mar/14 Solo O/S

On the way to Glover's Chimney, but no ice fall.

Hidden ??/2014 -
Cameron94 06/Dec/13 AltLd

Very thin, done in three pitches with no gear for all three. Three full pitches on 60m ropes, take the guidebooks 95m with a pinch of salt.

Nath93 06/Dec/13 2nd

Mostly seconded other than the last pitch to the top which was soloed due to the fact the leader couldn't find a belay. Ice was good when it needed to be. Echo the thoughts of the route being longer than the book says it is ! A good start to the season.

010paw 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Well banked out with snow. One grade 3 move on ice other than that grade 2 route in the condition when we were on it! Nice situation though.

with calum mcphee, Andy Watt
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd
luckyjim 10/Mar/13 AltLd
with D Helm
Hidden 09/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Dougbart 09/Mar/13 AltLd
with Iain
Hidden 09/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Mar/13 Solo
Ben Sharp 28/Feb/13 2nd
Simonfarfaraway 23/Feb/13 Lead
with Paul Arkless
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/Feb/13 -
Jim Haydock 21/Feb/13 -

Easy route on a bad weather day. Originally went to do Tower scoop but very windy high up in Observatory gully so came lower.

with Paul Quinn
Hidden 19/Feb/13 -
Stuzz 10/Feb/13 Solo
with Mark
Hidden ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Doogleman ?/Feb/13 Solo

Best combination of climbing conditions and weather on the Ben in a long time. Banked out except for first ice step. Great ice but bulge made it an exciting solo. Great viewpoint at the top

James_L88 22/Jan/13 Lead dnf

Nice first ice step (could have been avoided on snow to the left). Climbed up to the second ice step which was dripping with water and wouldn't take a screw. Tried climbing up the rock to the right before down climbing back to the bottom of the route.

Hidden ??/2013 -
smiler ??/2013 AltLd
captain ??/2013 -
RedFox 14/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/12 Solo dnf
jamesh 05/Feb/12 AltLd
with Jim Unwin
Robin Brooke ?/Feb/12 2nd
with ed chard
jcurley 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Chris Drinkwater
greenroom 28/Jan/12 Solo O/S

Devious route finding to pass some loaded and distinctly dodgy slopes lead to a nice little III pitch on the way to Glover's.

with hodgegrayson
Jonny Fart-Pants 28/Jan/12 Solo
mikedelderfield 21/Jan/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
ste_d 21/Jan/12 Solo O/S
with mik
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Solo O/S
The Bad Cough 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett, Tom Williams
Karlos 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Well banked out and at an easy angle, if a little icey. Piched only because lots of spindrift coming down. Placed my first peg for the belay, as couldn't find much rock gear.

with Mark B
JamesRoddie 02/Mar/11 Solo O/S

Some large crevasses where the ice pitches were in early season. A great viewpoint from the top of this route!

groliver26 01/Feb/11 2nd

with geoff and jon

jon_ridley 01/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Jonny M 01/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Farmer
Marq 01/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Simul climbed

with Paul Hearn (HMC)
carl_123 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Conan 29/Jan/11 Solo

Banked out

Stuzz 27/Jan/11 AltLd rpt
with Jamie, Craig
yellow 23/Jan/11 2nd
Spence22 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Carl
chmckay ??/2011 AltLd

The snow pretty solid all day, although the first pitch was kinda thin

with Jamie Murray, Graham Stuchberry
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Paul Boggis ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Tenko ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
tobydunford 31/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Peter Holder 29/Dec/10 Solo
Hidden 29/Dec/10 Solo O/S
stuaart 29/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Used as approach to Glover's Chimney. Contained two significant ice pitches.

with Neil Redgrave
1918hasti 28/Dec/10 2nd
with Doc
mikehenesy 16/Dec/10 -

Gully thin on snow hence water ice at the start of the first pitch. A collapsing snow and ice crux half way up the next made it an exciting solo especially for those with limited reach. Well done the short arses! More like a III in this condition?

with Dave Tait, Percy
gripped01 16/Dec/10 AltLd
with Mike Henesy, Dave Tait
Timo Austino 11/Dec/10 -

well steep at the start!

with Nats
Stuzz 02/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Only did the first pitch. (very nice grade III ice in the conditions) then traversed off. One other nice looking ice step further up, rest of the route looks like a nice enough snow plod.

with Geoff
joeydurkin 02/Dec/10 AltLd

Two nice ice pitches.

with Liz F, Dave Gleave
Moonstone Hippy 02/Dec/10 2nd dnf

Just did the first ice pitch (nice III), by far the best looking bit, after soloing up the icefalls on the right hand approach to the corrie floor.

with Graham
OZZY1962 17/Apr/10 2nd

no ice had to rock climb . long day

with barry, Andy, JEROME
Palomino1hills 17/Apr/10 Lead

felt hard due to poor build up at bottom.

with Geoff and Andy
Will Smith 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Used as part of a great link up from the CIC hut, up the little snow filled gorge, garadh, then number 2 buttress. Some gigantic bergschrunds and waterfalls. One detour onto rock to get past a non-existent ice step.

with Matt
ebastock 26/Mar/10 Solo
with John Beddard
andybuckley 07/Feb/10 Solo

Just banked-out snow slopes for the normal bit of the gully, but the reason for going up was to get to the 20m icefall on the LHS of the upper section. Had a go at the LHS of the fall, but wimped at the idea of going all-out on the last long vertical bit... so escaped via the handy snow bank in the cave behind the fall!

with Steve Crawford
JonBrown 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Marcel
Sophie Nunn 30/Jan/10 2nd
asmith37 28/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
robinsi197 09/Jan/10 AltLd

Grade II on the day, 3 short easy ice pitches

with Nick
marceli ??/2010 -
with JonBrown, Sophie Nunn, floris
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
KeithW 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Chose this due to high winds on summit routes. Guido lost a Dachy mitt.

with Guido
Hidden 01/Feb/09 AltLd
Ross McGibbon ??/2009 -
cragmanuk ??/2009 -
with Ian Lamb
rossn ??/2009 -
George Ormerod 19/Apr/08 Solo
with Roger
Peter Metcalfe 16/Apr/08 2nd
with Foggy
crowberry gully 07/Apr/08 -
with Ross McGibbon
luckyjim ?/Apr/08 Solo
Malcolm Auchie 18/Mar/08 AltLd

Climbed with variant near top, probably grade III. A lot of spindrift and cloud

with Alec Holden
Koon 09/Mar/08 2nd

Abacus Mountaineering

alifin 03/Mar/08 AltLd

One steep ice pitch at start, hard III maybe easy IV

with Aidan Roe
Hidden 03/Mar/08 Lead
Howard J 01/Mar/08 Lead rpt

Soft snow apart from a small section of ice and a dodgy descent back into the coire in very soft snow.

with Dan Callaghan, Nick Brakspear
Hidden 18/Jan/08 Lead O/S
smac ??/2008 -
Phill_ Thompson ??/2008 AltLd
with skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
brianrunner 27/Mar/07 AltLd
with martina
KeithW 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Used it to get up into the coire. Hit by huge chunk of ice, very painful.

with SteveM
decs 04/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tom W and Rozzy
abbeywall 03/Mar/07 AltLd

grade 3 conditions

steven ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Simon Dawson
Hidden 27/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden 25/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
jason 25/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with manmike
endless winter 24/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Blane
tim newton 11/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Jim Haydock 09/Feb/07 Solo
with alone
Mr Powly ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Pete Graham, Malcolm Scott
Jamie B ?/Feb/07 AltLd
with Ed Morrison
Stuart Macfarlane 18/Mar/06 AltLd
with Phil
gripped01 ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Si Moore
Hidden 27/Feb/06 AltLd
EAYL 11/Jan/06 2nd

first proper graded winter climb

with Stuart Easton
Hidden ??/2006 -
centurion05 ??/2006 -
Roch 05/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with Gary Hope
Hidden ?/Mar/05 AltLd
A Crook 17/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Conan ?/Feb/05 -

Climbed 3 times over the years. A nice grade II with the short easy ice pitches

Hidden ?/Feb/05 AltLd
GPN ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Howard J 13/Mar/04 Lead rpt
with John Waterhouse
crowberry gully 09/Mar/04 AltLd
with Ross McGibbon
Ann S ?/Mar/04 2nd
with Guide
ruaidh 24/Feb/04 Lead β

second time on this.

sebastien ?/Feb/04 Solo
Tim Bateman ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with Nick Beale
Hannah V 31/Jan/04 2nd
with Dave Pritt + others
Howard J 01/Mar/03 AltLd

Also Rachel James on her first winter outing

Gman ?/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Carl
rossn ?/Feb/03 AltLd O/S

Very nice first pitch led by Nick

with Nick Bryan
Captain Solo 21/Apr/01 Solo
with Ian Everard
LakesWinter 18/Apr/01 AltLd
with Wil
Hidden ?/Mar/01 -
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Solo
niall_mac ?/Jan/00 AltLd
akhughes ??/2000 -
Jacob Ram 21/Mar/99 Lead
with mike taylor
nickdonohue 12/Apr/98 Solo
johnkeith ??/1998 AltLd
with G. Callander
Hidden 02/Mar/97 2nd
Hidden 13/Feb/97 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/Feb/97 Lead
Marti999 ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden 08/Mar/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/96 -
Hidden 08/Jan/96 AltLd O/S
Mickdenali ?/Mar/95 Lead
with Mick Cadwell, Gail Waller
Hidden ?/Jan/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/92 Solo
OMSKB 29/Feb/92 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 26/Feb/92 -
with Nick Ashton
jlury ?/Jan/90 Solo

solo on my own no crampons . cut steps on a steep bit. was II/III on the day.

pingora 12/Feb/89 -
with Nick
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
jlury ?/Feb/88 Solo

grade I banked out

with LUMC
Hidden 13/Dec/87 Solo
pingora 05/Dec/87 -
with Rob L
Hidden ?/Apr/87 Solo
Richard Weller 03/Mar/87 Lead
with Nigel Thompson
Hidden ?/Feb/87 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/86 AltLd
Richard Weller 17/Jan/85 Lead dnf
with Ant Osborne
Mark Kemball 27/Mar/84 Solo
with Aamir Butt
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1984 Solo
Hidden ??/1984 Solo
Bruce Kerr 18/Dec/83 AltLd
with Alan Walker
Mark Kemball 23/Mar/83 Lead
with Katie Quinn
John Marsland ?/Dec/81 2nd
with John Clifford Smith
Nigel Bond 19/Mar/81 AltLd
with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Mark Kemball 25/Feb/81 Solo
with Mark Boon
uphillnow ?/Feb/80 Solo

soloed before doing Glovers

Hidden ?/Mar/77 AltLd
Derek Ryden 31/Dec/75 Solo rpt
with Martin Smith
Hidden ??/1975 -
Derek Ryden ?/Mar/74 Lead O/S
with Alan Nuttall
Hidden 17/Mar/68 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, halfaseesaw, Al Kells, Hidden, Only a hill, Hidden, GingerNathan, MJH, Hidden, Hidden, Alexander123, andymoin
High II
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Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
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