Garadh Gully* II
[Looking back down to lower pitches of Garadh Gully; it was ice screws all the way after though., 2 kb]95m. The obvious gully separating the Garadh from Tower ridge, which can be clearly seen from the CIC hut.

In lean or early season conditions it can give two good ice pitches of around grade III standard, later on it can bank out into a steep snow slope. A good climb for a short day, or it can be used as an approach to higher climbs.

The climb is around 4 pitches long, the guidebook length is rather short!
I Clough and M Burke 16/Feb/1958

Ticklists: Ben Nevis Gully Climbs.

Photo: Looking back down to lower pitches of Garadh Gully; it was ice screws all the way after though. © timday
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This climb is in 198 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Finished up some nice ice on the left wall.
Captain Solo - Solo rpt - 02/Apr/15

ian lead, we soled first pitch, cold and windy day, took 3 hours 30 to get to climb, coming down was much quicker we went wrong way and had to traverse solo about 200m to get in to the cwm below climb, ended up a long day!
Matthew Martin Wsm - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/15 with Ash payne, ian marshall

Hidden - Solo - 14/Mar/15

Dougbart - Solo - 14/Mar/15 with Iain

Good ice and enjoyable as approach to higher stuff.
davkeo - Solo O/S - 10/Mar/15

cearbhalld - Solo O/S - 10/Mar/15

in ascent and descent. One very icy pitch, otherwise not too firm, or too soft ,but def not neve. On descent by afternoon/evening, very soft, water dripping off rocks, and not looking too stable either. Attempted routes higher up, but snow was incredibly soft and made very slow progress.
TAG_UTLEY - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/15 with Colin

LJKing - Solo O/S - 15/Feb/15 with Adrian Botting

Good conditons. Plenty of ice.
keith hal - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Tim

A repeat of one of, if not the first, grade IIs I ever did. More ice than I remember last time; started with four ice screws racked; next pitch got the other two out of the pack and made use of all of them. Lovely route. Shortly after topping out on the Garadh, saw someone take a nasty fall off Comb Gully Buttress and assisted them down to a heli pickup from Coire na Ciste (putting us in a nice position to go on up to Moonlight Gully).
timday - AltLd rpt - 14/Feb/15 with KeithH

Lawrie Brand - Solo O/S - 10/Feb/15 with Mark Stevenson

boyson - 2nd - 09/Feb/15

joese7en - 08/Feb/15

Used as approach for Glover's Chimney. Good neve
skirton - Solo - 06/Feb/15 with Sean Henderson

Used as an approach for Glovers chimney. I lead kicking steps all the way, hard work! Mix of powder snow with a crust and a fair bit of neve
seanhendo123 - Solo O/S - 06/Feb/15 with Sarah

alan barnes - AltLd - 03/Jan/15 with tom sylvester, julie baum

2 excellent ice pitches
michaelb1 - 20/Dec/14 with M Tighe

Very banked out, en route to glovers chimney
manwithacam - Solo - 09/Mar/14 with khalidq

On the way to Glover's Chimney, but no ice fall.
khalidq - Solo O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Dan Metcalf

Hidden - 2014

Very thin, done in three pitches with no gear for all three. Three full pitches on 60m ropes, take the guidebooks 95m with a pinch of salt.
Cameron94 - AltLd - 06/Dec/13

Mostly seconded other than the last pitch to the top which was soloed due to the fact the leader couldn't find a belay. Ice was good when it needed to be. Echo the thoughts of the route being longer than the book says it is ! A good start to the season.
Nath93 - 2nd - 06/Dec/13

Well banked out with snow. One grade 3 move on ice other than that grade 2 route in the condition when we were on it! Nice situation though.
010paw - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/13 with calum mcphee, Andy Watt

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/13

luckyjim - AltLd - 10/Mar/13 with D Helm

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/13

Dougbart - AltLd - 09/Mar/13 with Iain

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/13

Hidden - Solo - 05/Mar/13

Ben Sharp - 2nd - 28/Feb/13 with rick armitage

Simonfarfaraway - Lead - 23/Feb/13 with Paul Arkless

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Hidden - 21/Feb/13

Easy route on a bad weather day. Originally went to do Tower scoop but very windy high up in Observatory gully so came lower.
Jim Haydock - 21/Feb/13 with Paul Quinn

Hidden - 19/Feb/13

Stuzz - Solo - 10/Feb/13 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/13

Best combination of climbing conditions and weather on the Ben in a long time. Banked out except for first ice step. Great ice but bulge made it an exciting solo. Great viewpoint at the top
Doogleman - Solo - Feb/13

Nice first ice step (could have been avoided on snow to the left). Climbed up to the second ice step which was dripping with water and wouldn't take a screw. Tried climbing up the rock to the right before down climbing back to the bottom of the route.
James_L88 - Lead dnf - 22/Jan/13 with Wyn Jones

Hidden - 2013

smiler - AltLd - 2013

captain - 2013

RedFox - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo dnf - 13/Feb/12

jamesh - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with Jim Unwin

Robin Brooke - 2nd - Feb/12 with ed chard

jcurley - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Chris Drinkwater

Devious route finding to pass some loaded and distinctly dodgy slopes lead to a nice little III pitch on the way to Glover's.
greenroom - Solo O/S - 28/Jan/12 with hodgegrayson

Jonny Fart-Pants - Solo - 28/Jan/12 with Frith Wood

mikedelderfield - Solo O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/12

ste_d - Solo O/S - 21/Jan/12 with mik

Narked4fun - 2012

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Mar/11

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Christian Minett, Tom Williams

Well banked out and at an easy angle, if a little icey. Piched only because lots of spindrift coming down. Placed my first peg for the belay, as couldn't find much rock gear.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Mark B

Some large crevasses where the ice pitches were in early season. A great viewpoint from the top of this route!
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/11

with geoff and jon
groliver26 - 2nd - 01/Feb/11 with Jon Ridley, Geoff Pyatt

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 01/Feb/11 with Geoff Pyatt, Gavin Oliver

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/11 with Steve Farmer

Simul climbed
Marq - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/11 with Paul Hearn (HMC)

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Banked out
Conan - Solo - 29/Jan/11

Stuzz - AltLd rpt - 27/Jan/11 with Jamie, Craig

yellow - 2nd - 23/Jan/11

Spence22 - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Carl

The snow pretty solid all day, although the first pitch was kinda thin
chmckay - AltLd - 2011 with Jamie Murray, Graham Stuchberry

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Paul Boggis - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Tenko - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/10

Peter Holder - Solo - 29/Dec/10 with lewis fraser

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Dec/10

Used as approach to Glover's Chimney. Contained two significant ice pitches.
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/10 with Neil Redgrave

1918hasti - 2nd - 28/Dec/10 with Doc

Gully thin on snow hence water ice at the start of the first pitch. A collapsing snow and ice crux half way up the next made it an exciting solo especially for those with limited reach. Well done the short arses! More like a III in this condition?
mikehenesy - 16/Dec/10 with Dave Tait, Percy

gripped01 - AltLd - 16/Dec/10 with Mike Henesy, Dave Tait

well steep at the start!
Timo Austino - 11/Dec/10 with Nats

Only did the first pitch. (very nice grade III ice in the conditions) then traversed off. One other nice looking ice step further up, rest of the route looks like a nice enough snow plod.
Stuzz - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/10 with Geoff

Two nice ice pitches.
joeydurkin - AltLd - 02/Dec/10 with Liz F, Dave Gleave

Just did the first ice pitch (nice III), by far the best looking bit, after soloing up the icefalls on the right hand approach to the corrie floor.
Moonstone Hippy - 2nd dnf - 02/Dec/10 with Graham

no ice had to rock climb . long day
OZZY1962 - 2nd - 17/Apr/10 with barry, Andy, JEROME

felt hard due to poor build up at bottom.
Palomino1hills - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Geoff and Andy

Used as part of a great link up from the CIC hut, up the little snow filled gorge, garadh, then number 2 buttress. Some gigantic bergschrunds and waterfalls. One detour onto rock to get past a non-existent ice step.
Will Smith - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Matt

ebastock - Solo - 26/Mar/10 with John Beddard

Just banked-out snow slopes for the normal bit of the gully, but the reason for going up was to get to the 20m icefall on the LHS of the upper section. Had a go at the LHS of the fall, but wimped at the idea of going all-out on the last long vertical bit... so escaped via the handy snow bank in the cave behind the fall!
andybuckley - Solo - 07/Feb/10 with Steve Crawford

JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Marcel

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 30/Jan/10

asmith37 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/10 with Matt Todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/10

Grade II on the day, 3 short easy ice pitches
robinsi197 - AltLd - 09/Jan/10 with Nick

marceli - 2010 with JonBrown, Sophie Nunn, floris

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Chose this due to high winds on summit routes. Guido lost a Dachy mitt.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Guido

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/09

Ross McGibbon - 2009

cragmanuk - 2009 with Ian Lamb

rossn - 2009

George Ormerod - Solo - 19/Apr/08 with Roger

Peter Metcalfe - 2nd - 16/Apr/08 with Foggy

crowberry gully - 07/Apr/08 with Ross McGibbon

luckyjim - Solo - Apr/08

Climbed with variant near top, probably grade III. A lot of spindrift and cloud
Malcolm Auchie - AltLd - 18/Mar/08 with Alec Holden

Abacus Mountaineering
Koon - 2nd - 09/Mar/08

One steep ice pitch at start, hard III maybe easy IV
alifin - AltLd - 03/Mar/08 with Aidan Roe

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/08

Soft snow apart from a small section of ice and a dodgy descent back into the coire in very soft snow.
Howard J - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/08 with Dan Callaghan, Nick Brakspear

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/08

smac - 2008

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - 2008 with skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins

brianrunner - AltLd - 27/Mar/07 with martina

Used it to get up into the coire. Hit by huge chunk of ice, very painful.
KeithW - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with SteveM

decs - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/07 with Tom W and Rozzy

grade 3 conditions
abbeywall - AltLd - 03/Mar/07

steven - AltLd O/S - Mar/07 with Simon Dawson

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/07

jason - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/07 with manmike

endless winter - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/07 with Blane

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/07

Jim Haydock - Solo - 09/Feb/07 with alone

Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - Feb/07 with Pete Graham, Malcolm Scott

Jamie B - AltLd - Feb/07 with Ed Morrison

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 18/Mar/06 with Phil

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with Si Moore

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Feb/06

first proper graded winter climb
EAYL - 2nd - 11/Jan/06 with Stuart Easton

Hidden - 2006

centurion05 - 2006

Roch - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/05 with Gary Hope

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/05

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/05 with Dom Stockton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/05

Climbed 3 times over the years. A nice grade II with the short easy ice pitches
Conan - Feb/05

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/05

GPN - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Howard J - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/04 with John Waterhouse

crowberry gully - AltLd - 09/Mar/04 with Ross McGibbon

Ann S - 2nd - Mar/04 with Guide

second time on this.
ruaidh - Lead β - 24/Feb/04

sebastien - Solo - Feb/04

Tim Bateman - AltLd - Feb/04 with Nick Beale

Hannah V - 2nd - 31/Jan/04 with Dave Pritt + others

Also Rachel James on her first winter outing
Howard J - AltLd - 01/Mar/03 with Conan Harrod

Gman - Lead O/S - Feb/03 with Carl

Very nice first pitch led by Nick
rossn - AltLd O/S - Feb/03 with Nick Bryan

Captain Solo - Solo - 21/Apr/01 with Ian Everard

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/01

Hidden - Mar/01

Hidden - Lead - Feb/01

Hidden - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Solo - 2001

niall_mac - AltLd - Jan/00 with am_bodach

akhughes - 2000

Jacob Ram - Lead - 21/Mar/99 with mike taylor

nickdonohue - Solo - 12/Apr/98

johnkeith - AltLd - 1998 with G. Callander

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/97

Marti999 - Lead - Feb/97

Marti999 - AltLd - 1997

Hidden - Lead - 08/Mar/96

Smith42 - Feb/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/96

Mickdenali - Lead - Mar/95 with Mick Cadwell, Gail Waller

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/95

Hidden - Solo - 28/Mar/92

OMSKB - AltLd - 29/Feb/92

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 26/Feb/92 with Nick Ashton

solo on my own no crampons . cut steps on a steep bit. was II/III on the day.
jlury - Solo - Jan/90

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/88

grade I banked out
jlury - Solo - Feb/88 with LUMC

Hidden - Solo - 13/Dec/87

Hidden - Solo - Apr/87

Richard Weller - Lead - 03/Mar/87 with Nigel Thompson

Hidden - Lead - Feb/87

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Mar/86

Richard Weller - Lead dnf - 17/Jan/85 with Ant Osborne

Mark Kemball - Solo - 27/Mar/84 with Aamir Butt

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1984

Hidden - Solo - 1984

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 18/Dec/83 with Alan Walker

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Mar/83 with Katie Quinn

John Marsland - 2nd - Dec/81 with John Clifford Smith

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 19/Mar/81 with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby

Mark Kemball - Solo - 25/Feb/81 with Mark Boon

soloed before doing Glovers
uphillnow - Solo - Feb/80

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/77

Derek Ryden - Solo rpt - 31/Dec/75 with Martin Smith

Hidden - 1975

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Mar/74 with Alan Nuttall

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Mar/68

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
halfaseesaw, Al Kells, Only a hill, GingerNathan, MJH, Alexander123, andymoin

Total votes cast 42
hard II/III2 of 22
II/III0 of 22
easy II/III3 of 22
hard II0 of 22
II6 of 22
easy II9 of 22
hard I/II2 of 22
I/II0 of 22
easy I/II0 of 22
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars11 of 20
1 Star8 of 20
0 Stars1 of 20
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Style of ascent
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Clean repeat