UKC

Restricted Access

Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.

Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant wall climbing protected by small wires. Start on the left of a rib. Step left and follow a line of pockets to mid-height. Move left to below a grey wall with a pockets in it. Climb up the pockets to a flake and head leftward on easier ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the wall just left of Necromancer to a break at 10m. Step left and follow a line of pockets to easy ground. Finish leftwards ( as for the original) or better, finish direct through the overhang. This adds some excellent final steep moves and means that the belay is directly above the whole route. Belay tree is a little way back.

R A Broomhead, A Burnham Jun/1980.

Ticklists

Bristol 1st E1s , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dances with Goblins , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Goblin Combe

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing. Hard to grade as I have done HVS' and another E1 which were both well harder. Generally, its a reachy and pays to be taller. Lots of micro wires is always a good shout, but never forget the torque at the top for a bomber belay. Generally pockets at the first crux which were secure and bomber. The second crux was cool. Nice way to finish
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing. Hard to grade as I have done HVS' and another E1 which were both well harder. Generally, its a reachy and pays to be taller. Lots of micro wires is always a good shout, but never forget the torque at the top for a bomber belay. Generally pockets at the first crux which were secure and bomber. The second crux was cool. Nice way to finish
ulbau 29 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Careful with the direct finish: very chossy and lots of loose rubble on the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Careful with the direct finish: very chossy and lots of loose rubble on the top!
ClimbingNut 1 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Suberp climbing with so much more gear that you can see from below. (unfortunately?) escapable to necromancer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Suberp climbing with so much more gear that you can see from below. (unfortunately?) escapable to necromancer.
Steve Bartle 26 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Micros (nuts) definitely needed, you won't place any medium-big gear
Show beta
βeta: Micros (nuts) definitely needed, you won't place any medium-big gear
luke43 26 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: large flake/hold (for the left hand then foot) at the start of the climb feels like it it about to part company with the crag, there are plenty of other options.. not quite as large!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: large flake/hold (for the left hand then foot) at the start of the climb feels like it it about to part company with the crag, there are plenty of other options.. not quite as large!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Goblin Combe

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 104
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Earl of Perth

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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