Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.
Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.
Dates: 15 February to 15 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.
Rockfax Description
Pleasant wall climbing protected by small wires. Start on the left of a rib. Step left and follow a line of pockets to mid-height. Move left to below a grey wall with a pockets in it. Climb up the pockets to a flake and head leftward on easier ground to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the wall just left of Necromancer to a break at 10m. Step left and follow a line of pockets to easy ground. Finish leftwards ( as for the original) or better, finish direct through the overhang. This adds some excellent final steep moves and means that the belay is directly above the whole route. Belay tree is a little way back.
R A Broomhead, A Burnham Jun/1980.
Bristol 1st E1s , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dances with Goblins , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Goblin Combe
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 15 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing. Hard to grade as I have done HVS' and another E1 which were both well harder. Generally, its a reachy and pays to be taller. Lots of micro wires is always a good shout, but never forget the torque at the top for a bomber belay. Generally pockets at the first crux which were secure and bomber. The second crux was cool. Nice way to finish | ||
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing. Hard to grade as I have done HVS' and another E1 which were both well harder. Generally, its a reachy and pays to be taller. Lots of micro wires is always a good shout, but never forget the torque at the top for a bomber belay. Generally pockets at the first crux which were secure and bomber. The second crux was cool. Nice way to finish |
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ulbau | 29 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Careful with the direct finish: very chossy and lots of loose rubble on the top! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Careful with the direct finish: very chossy and lots of loose rubble on the top! |
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ClimbingNut | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Suberp climbing with so much more gear that you can see from below. (unfortunately?) escapable to necromancer. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Suberp climbing with so much more gear that you can see from below. (unfortunately?) escapable to necromancer. |
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Steve Bartle | 26 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Micros (nuts) definitely needed, you won't place any medium-big gear | ||
Show beta
βeta: Micros (nuts) definitely needed, you won't place any medium-big gear |
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luke43 | 26 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: large flake/hold (for the left hand then foot) at the start of the climb feels like it it about to part company with the crag, there are plenty of other options.. not quite as large! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: large flake/hold (for the left hand then foot) at the start of the climb feels like it it about to part company with the crag, there are plenty of other options.. not quite as large! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))