UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

17m.

Rockfax Description
A mossy left-slanting ramp up the left end of a vegetated slab which is about 30m right of the hydro tunnel entrance on the Darwin Level. There are sound holds for all moves, but also fragile alternatives that must be avoided - careful climbing is needed. Belay on the lower-off before the top and scramble out. This is also the abseil back down, care is needed to reach it! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
3 bolts. Start at a mossy L slanting ramp at the L end of a vegetated slab that forms the L wall of a large corner with a vertical R wall which is about 40 m R of the hydro tunnel entrance on the Darwin level. There are sound holds for all moves but also fragile ones that must be avoided so careful climbing is needed.
Scramble up to a ledge on the R side of the ramp. The L rib provides the cleanest line. Climb the slab above the ledge to enter the R facing groove above. Step out to its L rib and finish directly to the level above (2B belay/ab point at edge, stake belays further back). The Cape York routes are about 30 m L along the level.

H.Walmsley 17/Jun/2014.

Ticklists

Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c

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