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The Lumpy Universe** E2 5c

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[Toby contemplates a Lumpy Universe (E2/3 5c), 3 kb]An interesting and well-positioned outing that wanders up the wall above and left of the orange stained cave at 8m. Start at a belay beneath the cave. 25m. Climb up a flake-line to the cave and a thread. Move up left to a peg, and another down to the left. Make some difficult moves left and up to a thin break and then stretch left to a juggy pocket and good thread. Move onto the slab above and climb the bulge, past a peg, to another slab below the final short and steep wall, which is supplied with good holds. Fence-post belay well above. © ROCKFAX
The LH exit to the Moonshot cave. An old peg marks the exit crack leftwards, traverse out to a thread (looks old but fairly thick), from here move upwards to a rest, then up (reasonable peg) and over a bulge onto a slab to the left. Finish up through the wall above with care.
Chris Nicholson Mar/1986

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Toby contemplates a Lumpy Universe (E2/3 5c) © Kafoozalem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Fantastic varied climbing but a little spooky with the loose-looking holds, E3 seems fair.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 11/May/13 with Colin

burto - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with hertha

Pete Graham - Lead - 25/Feb/12 with Ben Silvestre

steady climbing, but a lot of fragile rock, hence E3 is not a bad idea to give people an idea of this IMHO. Paradoxically, the rock and gear on the only tricky bit is impeccable! A great route.
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/11 with Pete Saunders

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/11

Climbed shirtless in Feb but made use of Quadmyre's beta and carried a t shirt on my harness :-) Friends have struggled to find the line on subsequent ascents - stay low leaving the cave and don't be tempted to go straight up at the tiny thread fingerhold. You can probably stand on a bolt if you traverse at the right height.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Tony Hopkins

Popkids - 2nd dog - 12/Feb/11 with Pete Saunders

Semi epic. Arrived at crag intending to do sport stuff which was wet. Had been meaning to do this for a while and it looked dry. However we had two single ropes, no helmets and no guidebook and I couldn't quite remember where it was supposed to go. Eventually figured out the line and set out, finally topping out on the least chossy-seeming option but then one rope jammed as I was mantling on to the grass. Ended up hanging off a block untying the jammed rope (which, incidentally, had the two last pieces of gear on it) before the grass mantel. Then spent the next 45minutes cursing myself for having set off topless as I shivered on the grassy slope belaying. Good route though! Not E3 despite the new rockfax. E2 5c is probably spot on.
quadmyre - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Crispin

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2006 with Ben

Mark Kemball - Lead - 19/Nov/03 with Stu Bradbury

shark - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/87 with Nick White

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richardr

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard E30 of 5
E30 of 5
easy E32 of 5
hard E21 of 5
E22 of 5
easy E20 of 5
hard E10 of 5
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hard 5b0 of 5
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