Restricted Access
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 25 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Crescent Buttress, Upper and Lower Craig Pen Gogarth, St. Tudno's Lower are subject to seasonal restrictions.
Observatory Buttress and Central Buttress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions.
Rockfax Description
Hard-won gear that is only just adequate. Start up the blank groove in the back of the recessed bay. Where the groove closes, head first left and then up and right to reach the arching overlap of The Teal. Grope about for hard-to-find holds above the overlap and continue past a peg to a ledge. Move right and climb a thin crack to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Superb, technical and demanding climbing. Protection is adequate if you work hard to get it. Climb the precarious blank groove in the centre of the recess until it closes. Move left, then up and right to the arch on the The Teal. Difficult moves gain the crack which exits the right side of the arch; follow this past a stainless peg to the break. A tricky wall up right leafs to a lower-off.
FA. Dave Lyon, Paul Freeman Aug/1987.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Si Witcher | 10 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: 1 drilled/glued pegbolt just above overlap before the crux moves, slightly lower than the old defunct peg. This can also be clipped while passing on the Teal. Trad E3 up the first groove to a rest and the Teal, then a bolt-protected bouldery crux (f6c+) into the crack and up. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: 1 drilled/glued pegbolt just above overlap before the crux moves, slightly lower than the old defunct peg. This can also be clipped while passing on the Teal. Trad E3 up the first groove to a rest and the Teal, then a bolt-protected bouldery crux (f6c+) into the crack and up. |
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| nimajneb | 20 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Replaced thread on top wall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Replaced thread on top wall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Lighthouse Crags
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The Charmer
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig y Forwyn)