Monmouthshire > Wyndcliffe >
 
The Don** E2 5c

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[The Don, 3 kb]40m. The alluring corner crack provides sustained and very well protected bridging moves on arguably the best route at the LH crag. Approach the ledge beneath the groove proper from the left, and exit towards the right following the in-situ thread marking the crux and the continuation crack above. There is a knotted rope in place at the top which provides the anchor to ab from but, as always, it is worth checking what the other end of the rope is attached to before trusting it with your life.

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: The Don © Mark Glaister
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

A small hold crumbled in my hand near the thread, thankfully I didn't fall off. The route is very technical and more sustained than I expected.
MD - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Jo, Ed

The tat was too much of a temptation when disco feet set in.
Happy Wanderer - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/14 with Ed, Mike D

eduardo - 2nd - 16/Aug/14 with Mike D

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Mike Dawes

More footholds than i was expecting.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with A.Rosier

So...all was going well - onsighted the crux - 2m above looking to get into balance when a hold snapped and I went flying...climbed back to below the crux and then had a moment to compose (ie rested) and then continued and finished climb (ie onsighted the top bit) - so overall I'm going to give myself a clean onsight :-) By the way - excellent route - but rock is rather dodgy in many places...lovely new thread and low in the grade..and more like 5b...
evhall - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Jon

mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 15/May/14 with Evhall

Not sure that the thread needs to be in situ at this grade, although it makes a nice, comforting target :)
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/14 with Clare

A striking feature that caused some serious burn on the leg muscles.
Tubs - Lead - 15/Mar/14 with Naomi

Found crux hard & went up past gear. Going back for gear was slightly tricky!
NB Pixel - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Tom

Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Dan Hobbs

Would be E1 if someone replaced the thread every year? (also why is the belay rope tied to a tiny holly when there is an enormous beech tree right next to it?!)
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Paz

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Kate, Harry

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Richard Snow

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13

Went out right looking for handholds just above the thread, and had to do a big swing back in off a not very substantial flake. Don't think I'd have done that on lead. Not really 5c I think.
Hooo - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Chris Sieradzki

Soft E2 5c. I'd grade it myself more like solid hard E1 5b although very nice and technical bridging climb on some crimple holds. My first ever route where my legs got pumped more than my arms. :)
Chris Sieradzki - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Hooo

Stickle Tarn - 2nd β - 22/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with alex malins

greypoint really, as I could remember ~ nothing from 2nding 2 years ago
hms - Lead rpt - 27/May/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 27/May/13 with Helen S

alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with Neil Morbey

Gavdee1 - 2nd - 19/Apr/13

Kevster - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

Anthony Dixon - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

jcook1980 - Lead - 04/Mar/13 with Dan Moore

3 stars despite friable rock.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/13

Never really hard if bridged right (which I did) and you can hang around as long as you like placing gear left right and center.
Tomar - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/12 with Kelly

Pleasant steady climbing, don't let yourself get distracted by rubbish flaky rock as you get started up the groove, the rock gets better as you go higher. The in-situ thread makes the route a grade easier.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Thomasina

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/12

Had a wee rest on the thread just below the crux - the ancient static cord creaked and that gave me the motivation to just get on with the rest of it!
simonf - Lead dog - 24/Jul/12 with Simon

cem - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Steve Gould

Straightforward bridging route. I noticed while abseiling down after the climb, this is actually pretty steep, even though I hadn't felt so. Simon's first Extreme (to make to the top).
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Jamie R, Simon P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

rock was a bit loose looking in places. some pretty tentative bridging over to the left hand side of the groove.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/12

thomb - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/12

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12 with frank ramsay

Gibbo - 2nd - 25/Oct/11 with Ollie Keynes

Nick Russell - Lead - 08/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/11

maffujones - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Zuzana Deans

Top out is very over grown and loose. Superb route though.
riddle - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Jamie Townsend

AlexD - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Ceri

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Alex Dennis

Excellent, thoroughly absorbing climbing.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Helen S

tough work but protection excellent.
hms - 2nd β - 22/Mar/11 with Brian

Tim Sparrow - 2011

Awesome! 3 stars if it wasnt so crumbly!
JonBrown - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Dougie

dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with John Brown

peaches69 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with sarah

Paul Robertson - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/10 with Rick Sewards

gripped01 - Lead - Aug/10 with Gilbert

metal arms - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Well protected, excellent fun. Calf pumpy as anything though...!
AJM - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Alex Mason, Ali Baylay

stuart34 - 2nd - 09/Jun/10

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd dog - 22/May/10 with Al Franks

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10

Brilliant, Technical but not pumpy.
Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Raff

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/10

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/10 with paul b

irish paul - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Dave Ripley

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Harry Martin

Bloody brilliant!Really exciting and tiring on the legs.really pleased to have led this at this stage of the season. Had a foot pop just after clipping the thread and was left dangling by one hand, with the other hand in my chalkbag-got the heart going!!
Trefo - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/10 with chris james

Hidden - 2010

Not so easy to read the rock. A good route
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/09 with steve tree

Circus - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with James Lane

james.lane - 2nd - 09/Sep/09 with Adam

Marti999 - Lead β - 22/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

Nice route. Sustained but well protected at crux which is top of groove. The other end of the single rope & mallion lower-off is tied to a small tree trunk - we decided to walk off.
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/09

3 Names - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09

Sam W - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Tom Bide

cornishben - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Gareth Pratt

DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Ben Sutton

Dan_Carroll - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Eric Herring

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/09 with CarolineH

Nice route. Super gear and not nearly as hard as I was expecting after more than 6 months of rock-free fatherhood. Loads of good footholds to bridge from, and some pretty decent hand holds too with an in-situ thread above your head for the crux. E1 5b.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Rigby

Phil PBC - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/08

E2 5c
gdb4060 - Lead - 06/Aug/08 with Rick Sewards

Rested on crux.
Bristoldave - Lead dog - 31/May/08 with Joe & Caroline

In the dark.
CarolineH - 2nd dnf - 31/May/08 with Dave and Joe

E2 5c
DannyK - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with pep

E2 5c in the new guidebook
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/08 with Clare

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with dean howard

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 01/May/06 with Charlie Everett

Jon Greengrass - 2005 with Paul H

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/02

craig h - TR O/S - 29/Apr/97 with Shunted

mark-abz - Lead - 25/Mar/90 with Ian D

ChrisJD - Lead - 28/Jan/89

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987 with Chris Brown

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mop449, hutchay, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hooo, Dave 88, stvredmond, Hidden, Chris Sansum, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 107
hard E30 of 36
E30 of 36
easy E30 of 36
hard E20 of 36
E220 of 36
easy E215 of 36
hard E11 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E10 of 36
hard 6a0 of 36
6a0 of 36
easy 6a0 of 36
hard 5c2 of 36
5c9 of 36
easy 5c17 of 36
hard 5b7 of 36
5b1 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
3 Stars2 of 35
2 Stars32 of 35
1 Star1 of 35
0 Stars0 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
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Style of ascent

Lead66 of 103 (64.1%)
Followed32 of 103 (31.1%)
Toproped1 of 103 (1.0%)
Unknown4 of 103 (3.9%)

'Climbed'24 of 103 (23.3%)
clean O/S64 of 103 (62.1%)
clean β3 of 103 (2.9%)
clean rpt6 of 103 (5.8%)
dogged5 of 103 (4.9%)
dnf1 of 103 (1.0%)