40m. The alluring corner crack provides sustained and very well protected bridging moves on arguably the best route at the LH crag. Approach the ledge beneath the groove proper from the left, and exit towards the right following the in-situ thread marking the crux and the continuation crack above. There is a knotted rope in place at the top which provides the anchor to ab from but, as always, it is worth checking what the other end of the rope is attached to before trusting it with your life.

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Stickle Tarn 10/Oct Lead rpt
Gibbo 19/Sep 2nd
with Ed Wright
Hidden 11/Sep Lead O/S
Avon Man 16/Aug 2nd
with Derek
Luuuuuke 31/Jul Lead O/S
with tom
tom0129 31/Jul 2nd β
Hidden 19/Jun Lead
natlavender 19/Jun 2nd O/S


with tobra
Hidden 16/Jun 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 11/Jun 2nd O/S
with Max Coney
Legs 11/Jun Lead O/S

Great route. The continual bridging moves are awesome. Really chuffed with the onsight.

with Steve
jsmcfarland 26/May Lead O/S

Very sustained, gear is generally good and of course the thread is bomber. There is a key hold to get out of the crux that isn't entirely obvious, it's really easy to get pumped out of your mind trying to find a solution until you find it. Nearly came off but made it by the skin of my teeth! *** route. The anchor at the top looks super dodgy.

with Steve
alastairbegley 13/May Lead RP

Seconded this two years ago. Enjoyable route, in situ thread is excessively long so can be clipped from pretty low down.

twem 13/May 2nd O/S
adam 24 26/Apr Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 26/Apr 2nd rpt
climbingpixie 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Claire
Leelogs 04/Apr 2nd
jordana86 ??/2015 2nd

Slipped off at the Crux!

Hidden 13/Dec/14 2nd O/S
mike.moss 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Kirill 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S

The in-situ thread makes it quite easy.

theotherpetehill ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick
Derek Ryden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Easiest E2 I've done in the Wye Valley. Just when you think it's going to get herd, it gets easier. Great route though.

with Andy Forbes
Tim W 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Cat, Paul Black
ian d f 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
MD 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A small hold crumbled in my hand near the thread, thankfully I didn't fall off. The route is very technical and more sustained than I expected.

with Jo, Ed
Happy Wanderer 16/Aug/14 2nd dog

The tat was too much of a temptation when disco feet set in.

with Ed, Mike D
eduardo 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Mike D
AlexRenshaw 22/Jun/14 Lead
Ollie B 31/May/14 Lead O/S

More footholds than i was expecting.

with A.Rosier
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead O/S
mallardhealhook 15/May/14 2nd O/S
with Evhall
bpmclimb 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Not sure that the thread needs to be in situ at this grade, although it makes a nice, comforting target :)

with Clare
Tubs 15/Mar/14 Lead

A striking feature that caused some serious burn on the leg muscles.

with Naomi
NB Pixel 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Found crux hard & went up past gear. Going back for gear was slightly tricky!

with Tom
Ricky Rocks 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Would be E1 if someone replaced the thread every year? (also why is the belay rope tied to a tiny holly when there is an enormous beech tree right next to it?!)

with Paz
tedj234 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kate, Harry
Dibdawg 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
LucasHarazin 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hooo 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Went out right looking for handholds just above the thread, and had to do a big swing back in off a not very substantial flake. Don't think I'd have done that on lead. Not really 5c I think.

Chris Sieradzki 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Soft E2 5c. I'd grade it myself more like solid hard E1 5b although very nice and technical bridging climb on some crimple holds. My first ever route where my legs got pumped more than my arms. :)

with Hooo
Stickle Tarn 22/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 27/May/13 2nd rpt
with Helen S
alastairbegley 15/May/13 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 19/Apr/13 2nd
Kevster 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Anthony Dixon 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jcook1980 04/Mar/13 Lead
with Dan Moore
Hidden 01/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tomar 17/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Never really hard if bridged right (which I did) and you can hang around as long as you like placing gear left right and center.

with Kelly
msoldn 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Pleasant steady climbing, don't let yourself get distracted by rubbish flaky rock as you get started up the groove, the rock gets better as you go higher. The in-situ thread makes the route a grade easier.

with Thomasina
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
simonf 24/Jul/12 Lead dog

Had a wee rest on the thread just below the crux - the ancient static cord creaked and that gave me the motivation to just get on with the rest of it!

with Simon
cem 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Straightforward bridging route. I noticed while abseiling down after the climb, this is actually pretty steep, even though I hadn't felt so. Simon's first Extreme (to make to the top).

with Jamie R, Simon P
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 06/May/12 Lead O/S

rock was a bit loose looking in places. some pretty tentative bridging over to the left hand side of the groove.

with J
Hidden 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
thomb 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Gibbo 25/Oct/11 2nd
with Ollie Keynes
Nick Russell 08/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead
maffujones 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Zuzana Deans
riddle 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Top out is very over grown and loose. Superb route though.

with Yasmina
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Goose4 01/May/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ceri
Ceridwen 01/Apr/11 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Excellent, thoroughly absorbing climbing.

with Helen S
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd β
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
JonBrown 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Awesome! 3 stars if it wasnt so crumbly!

with Dougie
dswansonlow 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with John Brown
peaches69 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
Paul Robertson 22/Aug/10 2nd rpt
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Gilbert
metal arms 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
AJM 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Well protected, excellent fun. Calf pumpy as anything though...!

with Alex Mason, Ali Morris
stuart34 09/Jun/10 2nd
Alasdair88 22/May/10 Lead O/S
lizzie789 22/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant, Technical but not pumpy.

with Raff
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
tobydunford 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Trefo 28/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant!Really exciting and tiring on the legs.really pleased to have led this at this stage of the season. Had a foot pop just after clipping the thread and was left dangling by one hand, with the other hand in my chalkbag-got the heart going!!

with chris james
Hidden ??/2010 -
chris wyatt 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Not so easy to read the rock. A good route

with steve tree
Circus 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
james.lane 09/Sep/09 2nd
with Adam
Marti999 22/Aug/09 Lead β
Didymus 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Nice route. Sustained but well protected at crux which is top of groove. The other end of the single rope & mallion lower-off is tied to a small tree trunk - we decided to walk off.

with Rich
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
3 Names 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Sam W 04/Jul/09 Lead
cornishben 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Dan_Carroll 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
Bristoldave 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Owen W-G 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Nice route. Super gear and not nearly as hard as I was expecting after more than 6 months of rock-free fatherhood. Loads of good footholds to bridge from, and some pretty decent hand holds too with an in-situ thread above your head for the crux. E1 5b.

with Rigby
Phil PBC ??/2009 -
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Lead
gdb4060 06/Aug/08 Lead

E2 5c

with Rick Sewards
Bristoldave 31/May/08 Lead dog

Rested on crux.

with Joe & Caroline
CarolineH 31/May/08 2nd dnf

In the dark.

with Dave and Joe
just one more 26/Apr/08 Lead
with Svenn G
DannyK 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S

E2 5c

with pep
bpmclimb 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S

E2 5c in the new guidebook

with Clare
Mark A Humphries 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with dean howard
tom.e 01/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Jon Greengrass ??/2005 -
with Paul H
Hidden 30/Jun/02 2nd
craig h 29/Apr/97 TR O/S
with Shunted
mark-abz 25/Mar/90 Lead
with Ian D
Hidden 28/Jan/89 Lead
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Chris Brown
Chris Terrey ?/Jan/80 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AndrewP, Hidden, mop449, hutchay, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hooo, Dave 88, stvredmond, Hidden, Chris Sansum, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
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High 5c
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