The routes starts at the rightmost of the two corners in the middle of the wall, as shown in the picture in the guide book. Climb to the break in angle and aim slightly rightwards towards the downward-pointing tree branch, where the downward-pointing flake is visible, looking like a loose block from the bottom. The thread is on a ledge below this, which can also be clipped from No Muskateers before it traverses off rightwards.

From here, the leftward trending line of flakes is visible, and the final flake is the obvious highest point of rock above.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Orange Spot Lower Wye, Ultimate HVS ticklist, CUMC Ticklist, Shorn Cliff Nose.

Alex_RhodesUK 24/May Lead O/S
with Sam de Belner
bigbobbyking 15/May 2nd O/S
with Charles Green
Pete Randall 15/May Lead O/S
with Rob H
RachelHC 15/May 2nd O/S

A lovely climb. We may have strayed right onto No Musketeers at one point but it didn't seem to matter. Lots of fun finger pockets on the upper section.

charles-green 15/May Lead O/S
Tom courtiour 14/May Lead O/S
SenzuBean 14/May Lead O/S

Had a right battle finding the line. Halfway on the route got told wrongly by another leader that I was nowhere near the Laughing Cavaliers which didn't help matters (he'd confused the peg for the thread). Clearly the route description could do with some work judging by the sheer number of lost climbers. I think I managed to find the _first_ thread, and then the juggy flake is 3m up and 3m to the left, and kind of not that juggy at all really and is in an almost-groove? Hand traverse right on pockets and then carry on more-or-less up past the undercut flake? How can it be a classic if nobody knows where it goes...

with Ed
sus 14/May 2nd
EcoClimber 08/May Lead O/S
tom.e 07/May 2nd O/S
with Clare Muir
EllieWoods 07/May Lead O/S
with Natalie Rees
jon_gill1 07/May 2nd rpt
with chris Lyness
Hidden 05/May Lead O/S
Pero 05/May 2nd
r.greaves 30/Apr Lead
with Joe harris
stvredmond 26/Apr Lead
eduardo 17/Apr 2nd rpt
with Mark H
Norman_P_W 09/Apr 2nd
Monkey_Alan 09/Apr Lead O/S

Mistook the pedestal on The Bitter Battle Tears for the "Juggy Flake", so finished up that route.

Dino Dave 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Liam Jones, Hugo UBMC
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd β
kierankeavy 05/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd O/S
rich_hw 02/Apr Lead O/S
Dizz 25/Mar 2nd O/S
with Simon P
si_pro_83 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 20/Mar Lead
Hidden 12/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar Lead O/S
jon_gill1 12/Mar 2nd rpt
with nick loc
toasted 12/Mar Lead
with Mewes, Juliette Edwards
poeter210 05/Mar Lead rpt

Went the right way this time so a good half of the route was new, very pleasant

with Matt, adrian voss
druss 05/Mar 2nd rpt
theomoore 28/Feb Lead O/S
with max, sam
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
arandall 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

First route on the crag, bit slippery in the morning. Got a bit lost at the top section, couldn't find anything I'd describe as a juggy flake, but the climbing was all good and pretty similar

Wendy Watthews 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S


Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 18/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Doug miller 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 04/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
caradoc 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Easier than Bitter Battle Tears. I'm sure that flake moved.

with nick yapp
WillAndrew 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Ali
ali.scott 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Will A
Mr Tickle 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Route finding issues, finished up hvs route to the left.

with davenev
davenev 19/Sep/15 Lead
with luke
Hidden 12/Sep/15 2nd
David Walker 06/Sep/15 TR O/S

Liz had climbed it, so it would be rude not to join her and the others at the top!

lizzie789 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Faffed quite a bit as wasn't 100% sure where I was going. But...nice climb!

with Andy (Maria,Dave)
MariaT 06/Sep/15 TR O/S
with Liz, Andy, David Walker
Andrew Martin 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Liz lead

eduardo 05/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Mark H
alexspurling 05/Sep/15 Lead β

Chuck placed the last few bits of gear. First HVS.

Hidden 01/Sep/15 Lead rpt
mattgrange 29/Aug/15 Lead β

Think I fluffed the route-finding again, still a great piece of climbing though

gregclarke 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Brian
bpmclimb 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt
marclloyd77 16/Aug/15 Lead
Lmt 16/Aug/15 2nd
with Marc
Stickle Tarn 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

The most challenging part of the route is finding the correct line in the upper sections.

Andrew Sloan 07/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with ben
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead
Giles Eperon 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Charlie Eperon 02/Aug/15 2nd
Kemics 02/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Pete
rich H0001 ?/Aug/15 Lead
DampRice 31/Jul/15 2nd β
kirsten 31/Jul/15 Lead
with Tim
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Bryan M 23/Jul/15 2nd

with Mike Dinsdale and Chris Hines (L)

C May 18/Jul/15 Lead

Lovely climb with lots of gear

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 18/Jul/15 2nd
with C May
mes32 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Adam
Stuart William 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Didn't read the guide properly and ended up a little off route. Sounds like I'm not the only one. Went left too early, climbed the pedestal of BBTs and then a traverse back right to get back on route.

with Dan G
gobbledigook 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
greedo 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Guy reid
danbirkby 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Adrian, Gordon
MJAS82 08/Jul/15 2nd
kirsten 05/Jul/15 2nd

Still got to lead this - next time.

with Tim
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jungle 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Climbed on half a set of nuts because I left my rack at home...Thanks to the couple that lent me some of their gear!

cathymiller 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
phil456 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Graham M
Guss1 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/15 2nd O/S
AngelaC 18/Jun/15 Lead
with Paul
Bob Peters 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
George.Rowland 08/Jun/15 2nd

We're not really sure we finished this, probably linked with 'bitter battle tears' near the top. Great climbing what ever it was, interesting holds and loads of good gear.

Neil Watson 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Considering it's the same grade as No Musketeers, this climb is far easier.

with Aidan
minty1984 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Really good route. Had to take a rest after the "juggy flake" as I got a bit pumped looking for a foothold. Will be back to lead this clean. Really good gear and good pocket holds

KeirVonMarlon 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
maddy92 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
miriamclaire 06/Jun/15 Lead β
MarkCunnington 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
huwbrace 06/Jun/15 Lead β
Hidden 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Tilt 06/Jun/15 Lead G/U

& nick. wandered off route to left, following better holds! then back on, but missed insitu sling.

with Marc T
Hidden 02/Jun/15 Lead β
Hugobristol 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Not a clear line...

with Pippa
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd
bpmclimb 28/May/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
afrosam 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd O/S
ali.scott 16/May/15 2nd O/S
with Tom N
Slick 16/May/15 Lead
jon_ridley 10/May/15 2nd
Moby Copperfield 10/May/15 2nd

Lead by Mike. He drifted onto the route to the left (Bittle Battle Tears?) halfway up and we topped out on that route instead.

with Mike C
Gavdee1 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Claire
katherinesydney 04/May/15 2nd rpt
with neil morbey
Hidden ?/May/15 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/15 2nd
Kemics 27/Apr/15 2nd rpt

I think finally I climbed this the right way without getting off route. All much of the same, but a little nicer. Climbed and abbed with a sling round waste. very painful experience.

with Pete, Dan
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd
Lil_Pete 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Vnockles 25/Apr/15 Lead
with Alex Smith
Ian Stirrups 23/Apr/15 2nd
with Sue
James Marshall 20/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Tom Ball
Hidden 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
emdawes 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
KittyKat 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Jody Palmer
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd dog
London Luke 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
kivell 12/Apr/15 Lead
with nigel
Hidden 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
hutchay 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
miriamclaire 12/Apr/15 2nd
with hutchay
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
RichyBOYY 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ben M
Benzo 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Ric
Hidden 05/Apr/15 Lead β
climbingpixie 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Adam
adam carless 05/Apr/15 2nd
gripped01 04/Apr/15 Lead
with Dave Tait
Georgina Brooke ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S

1st HVS!

with peter
Hidden 05/Mar/15 2nd rpt
emilyjhunt 18/Feb/15 2nd
laurashaw 18/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Eagertom ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Laura Shaw
Hidden ??/2015 -
Ed morris 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Henry
Neil D 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Dom Southgate, sam thompson
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Matt1234 22/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
Andrew1 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Hulda
Tim W 20/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Matt Jones, Sarah Jenkins
wilchivs 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
Neil 13/Sep/14 Lead
MrJWilliams92 09/Sep/14 -
Amber Chaloner 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Gareth went left instead of right! Half and half. Finished up neighbouring climb with some tricky traversing to retrieve gear.

Gareth T 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Decided that doing one climb would be too boring so wandered over onto the adjacent HVS, included a nice traverse past the peg on the E3

with Amber
mes32 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Tor
3 Names 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd rpt
jing 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S

My first clean HVS second. A fantastic route that I really enjoyed. Solved some parts of it differently from what Vince did since I am shorter.

with Vince
mop449 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Slimy at the bottom, but good quality climb. More gear than you could wish for. Small wires essential.

with Jimbo
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Lee Glassbrook
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Legs 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great slab climb with good gear in the right place. There are some awesome moves up interesting pockets. Last lead of the day and well worth the wait.

jsmcfarland 18/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Slabby HVS that definitely deserves the 3 stars. Good moves and generally good gear. As with Bitter Battle Tears, the holds are pretty wierd, with lots of pockets, knobbly bits etc. Looking forward to coming back here and trying the rest of the routes on this part of the crag, they look quality!

with Max
BicycleBradley 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Kemics 17/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Different line to last time (stayed right)

lem 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Definitely low in the grade. Had a nanoepic when ropes got stuck after the ab, but it just meant getting another route in. Finding the exit path in the dark was more adventurous than expected!

Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Echna 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Rich
Becky E 14/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing

with Becky E
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead
cem 08/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Peter Debbage
Steve Woollard 04/Aug/14 Lead
with Donald
crater 04/Aug/14 2nd
with steve
Joris.Roulleau 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Solly Kemball Dorey
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Armstrong
Quarryboy 24/Jul/14 TR O/S

Rob had a toprope on it for andy and I knew there wasn't going to be enough time to lead it and probably wouldn't be back at Shorn cliff for a while so had a blast, although it takes the most obvious line on the cliff I think the climbing on the other HVS's is actually more fun.

Stanners 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A fantastic HVS without a doubt but no better than its right hand neighbour. Will have to get the left hand HVS next time

with Andy G, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
mes32 23/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Caroline
Andy Smallwood 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Mattyk 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon 14/Jul/14 2nd
with Justin Sharpe
trwolfe13 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jack Dorling, Cameron Hall
cameron_hall 13/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Jack Dorling, Tom Wolfe
felixizzy 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead β
RamblingRyan 10/Jul/14 2nd
with Col
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 26/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Dave Thompson 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
tobydunford 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Prez 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Tim
tomjemmett 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Tim W 21/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Cat, Matthew Thomson
cdpuk 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BareBears 21/Jun/14 2nd
with Dale, Tom Jemmett
arthur_de_briton 21/Jun/14 Lead
with tim wilkinson, cat mckenna
Rob84 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Lou Ramsden
leerybunny 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/14 2nd
Felix Ottey 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Egons Issy 08/Jun/14 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
matt1024 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dale ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Warm up route. Thought it was easy for HVS, Very good but I don't think worth the 3 stars

with Tom J, Dan
matt.jj 18/May/14 Lead rpt


with Brian Mead
sara n 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with Neville Contractor
jrccrosby 17/May/14 2nd O/S

Felt really easy

with Alastair
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 15/May/14 Lead O/S

A bit lacking in line, easy to wander onto either of the adjacent routes. Very soft for HVS, not sure about 5a either.

with Emily
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Matt250 05/May/14 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 04/May/14 Lead rpt

Seconded a few years back when it felt tough. Now it feels like nice steady climbing although on the limit of my leading comfort zone(soft HVS).

with Ric
bonelessivar 04/May/14 2nd rpt
with Alan
Alex Winter 03/May/14 2nd O/S

Good route. The pockety head-wall is brilliant.

with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Super safe, super good

with Alex W
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
tskelhon ?/May/14 2nd
clmacdonald ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
D Berry 18/Apr/14 Lead RP

Ended going to far left to find the juggy flake in the description and ended up on Bitter Battle Tears to finish. High quality slabbing still.

with Claire Berry
Alex Whitmore 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Miriam Billig, David Clover
darren hudson 13/Apr/14 -
with David Ford
Andy Chubb 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Bob Norris, John Keska
CurlyStevo 12/Apr/14 Lead

watch out for the suspect flake at the top I didn't put gear in it but did pull on it. You can avoid it jsut to the left at roughly the same grade.

Radical-G 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mick1jones 22/Mar/14 2nd O/S

First climb after pin removed from finger earlier in month

with Charlie
pheotleyr 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Pete
najki_2000 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Brilliant climb, amazing holds

asmith37 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Nika, Matt Cooper
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Pero 15/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Ricky Rocks 22/Feb/14 2nd
ejected ??/2014 -
Hidden 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S
poeter210 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Byrne, adrian voss
druss 08/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
tomhull 04/Sep/13 2nd β
with Stephen Cumberland
suffolknick 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with lou
Stone Muppet 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with md
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Urgles 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Bottom end HVS 5a and 2 stars

with Don Sargeant
TimKnight 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Dave's first HVS lead, super smooth

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tommy
tommy.henriksson78 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with steve_gibbs
George Frisby 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 10/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Helen
Country_Boy 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Anton
Dave Mahon 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
matt.jj 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Mahon
Derek Furze ?/Aug/13 Lead
alaster tonge 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lailah, Assad Lahlou
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
aipattison 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
georgeevans88 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
robthered 15/Jul/13 2nd
ellmang 14/Jul/13 2nd

must come back and lead - awesome route

andyjirvin 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Nicer and more varied than I remember. Could climb this one over and over. Still pretty easy, slightly tricky at top depending on the line.

Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead β
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd rpt
martin one 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with HMA
Ollie B 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with B.Fitzgerald
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Kirill 29/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Artyom Skrobov
Kemics 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Possibly got a little lost...but I blame pants route description. "Go left at the thread"...there's hundreds of threads! Ended up doing a hand traverse on awesome pockets to find the flake. Very enjoyable whatever route it was.

with Anthony
luke glaister 21/Jun/13 Lead β

Loved this climb. Good pro all the way to the flake. Then a nice few moves left and up to finish. Brilliant.***

casey johns 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Abi Chard 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead β
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Quirina 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Laughing Cavaliers, or Bitter Battle Tears? Got confusing after traverse to the left at flake.

tommccluskey 12/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Duncan
Duncan Turner 12/Jun/13 Lead
i.fish2000 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
neilwiltshire 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Simon Kemper
jon_gill1 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with ross garfoot
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
JulianB 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Pero 07/Jun/13 Lead β
Trisha Murphy 04/Jun/13 Lead

Got a boy lost silly Trisha

with Paul Kidd
Snorfalorpagus 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Palfreman
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
pearson9596 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Jim
cameron_hall 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Found it trickier than when I first led it.

with Charlene Lee, Marion Wyllie
cameron_hall 02/Jun/13 2nd

Helping to collect gear.

leglesslizard ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
cem 18/May/13 Lead rpt
with Dan Zhou
bluesharper 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Richard
spearing05 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice route. Gear and holds where you need them.

with Andrew
Dave Mahon 06/May/13 Lead O/S

A nice warm up.

with Brian Mead
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
budchawla 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Went off route about halfway, climbed a few moves of A King's Ransom, and finished up Bitter Battle tears. Clean lead though :)

Happy Haggis 05/May/13 2nd
steve_gibbs 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Camilla Mapstone
mes32 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Wilki
Chubbard 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mark C
zcsharp 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
KatOstrich 27/Apr/13 2nd

Slightly more challenging start, otherwise fine

Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead O/S
kirsten 20/Apr/13 2nd

gotta lead this

with Brian
bpmclimb 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
AJM 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
DrewWilkins 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

First HVS - BAM.

Tala M 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
dsgarner 06/Apr/13 TR O/S

Went too far right at the top, got tangled up in the tree, had to traverse left a bit to get to the top

SGD 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

dont know what to think about this as I think I climbed 3 different routes? start is straight forward an obvious enough but then it all went strange on the slab. I got a couple of good threads then moved upto the peg on the e3 whilst looking for the mysterious juggy flake. I avoided the peg on theright and ended up on some pockets above below a dodgy downward pointing loose block. I avoided that and then found myself reaching/popping for a good flake (is this the juggy flake?) and some welcome gear. Is this the line? It also sounds like I missed the described thread. It was an adventure.....

misterb 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S


with tom
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Slick 20/Oct/12 Lead

Damp lower down and pockets full of water.. V.confidence building!

with Dan Smith
pelvoux 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Want left after the slab so finished on another route

with Alistair
khalidq 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Alistair, Eric Pouget
67hours 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Becky H
cjohn62 22/Sep/12 2nd
with gareth
Becky H 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with George Cave
Phil Layton 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Chris, Keri
Ali.B 17/Sep/12 Lead
with MikeDinsdale
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Lead rpt
mattshort 16/Sep/12 2nd
with Phil Porter, Dave West
kelliroberts3 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Chazwoz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
davetaylor 15/Sep/12 2nd dog

Barn doored after trying to swap feet on small hold. Enjoyed the climb even for the annoying mistake.

mes32 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Aeron
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Prof. Outdoors 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Jane
Steve Perry 09/Sep/12 2nd

Kate went off route, not much of a classic when nobody seems to know where it goes.

with Faye, Katie Long
Happy Haggis 02/Sep/12 2nd
Robbo1 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S


Matt1234 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
pftom 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Mike Hood 22/Aug/12 Lead
Dave Ing 14/Aug/12 Lead β

Messed up the start then tried again, much better.

MikeLell 14/Aug/12 Lead β
MikeLell 14/Aug/12 2nd β
3 Names 11/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Christine
saraguti 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with chris
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
ScottyD 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mattgrange 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Got a bit lost towards the top after the final thread, sketched out of it though! Very enjoyable.

kim.mulji 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Christine Belk
Pero 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt
TobyA 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Good climbing and steady.

with Bill N
localboy 20/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Nice route

with Simon F
simonf 20/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
AngelaC 16/Jul/12 2nd
with Peter Riley
timmyhobby 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Russtygibbons 02/Jul/12 2nd β
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
richardashe 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
thetradlad 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Keeno
Coops_13 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Traverse at top a bit sketch due to loose flake

mjeffery 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Ando
eroica64 27/May/12 Lead

Fist steep HVS climbed after shoulder resurfacing operation in March 2010.

with Tim Cashmore
Nevil 27/May/12 2nd
with Vince
Vincej 27/May/12 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 24/May/12 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 22/May/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 20/May/12 Lead rpt

Traversed left above the flake towards the top for some reason which added considerable spice.

with Nick, Toby
stoneback 20/May/12 2nd O/S
with Ivan, Toby
Ybot Htulk 20/May/12 2nd
with Ivan & Nick
MrRoundy 19/May/12 2nd dog
with JP
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead
rurp 15/May/12 Lead O/S
MD 13/May/12 2nd rpt
with Jo
LJKing 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Clarkson, Abi Greves
Darrell Read 13/May/12 Lead
Happy Wanderer 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mike D
31770 13/May/12 2nd
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Big Lee 12/May/12 2nd rpt

I had forgotten just how good this route is! Absorbing climbing bottom to top.

Rick Ashton 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route.

with Big Lee
andycash 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with mark sinclare
MikeLell 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dave
crossdressingrodney 06/May/12 Lead rpt
with Andy B
katherinesydney 05/May/12 2nd rpt
Jim Brooke 05/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
pffft 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
mullermn 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt

4th time up this one. I think it is now spoilt slightly by the flake at the top which is starting to sound so hollow that I now neither put gear behind it or even pull on it, making the traverse left quite a runout crux relative to the rest of the route. I would be very wary of placing any kind of gear behind the flake - certainly no cams.

Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Kap 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
drysori 07/Apr/12 Lead
chris sm 02/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Damien ?
will_benfold 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Jez Gittins
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead
onlyfoddington 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Didn't trust that hollow flake

missxandrabee 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S

first climb of the day - super fun.

with Steve
stevorobs3 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
pearson9596 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tradguy 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Brian Mead
Hidden 23/Mar/12 -
pffft 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First HVS, found the first wall to get onto slab to be the most nervy bit. The rest lovely :)

with Jojo Mills
Luuuuuke 13/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Si
peaches69 13/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with luke
monsteratt 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Mark Jones, Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with monty
Dave 88 28/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Lovely moves low down, then I don't know if we were off route but the gear was terrible. Huge delicate rock-over that I was glad I didn't have to lead! Top effort from James.

puppythedog 28/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Really pleased with this lead, my route finding may have been a bit off and was affected by the seepage. That and the greasy rock coupled with me finding HVS a tough grade meant this felt tough. Super happy with the lead.

with Dave 88
HarryB 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Kyle Rance 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Was interesting as was speed climbing to beat a friend to the top as i started when he was halfway, running it out and climbing fast lol super fun.

with Scott Purdy
james.slater 04/Jan/12 Lead O/S

This was confusing, the thread mentioned in the guidebook was very elusive (is it in situ or not?) so i ended up climbing to the peg which looks like a thread from the bottom... so went off route slightly but enjoyed it anyway!

TomMorgan 04/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Ian JL ??/2012 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2012 -
timtimpeggy ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
wave1art ??/2012 2nd O/S
with Charkrit Suryil
Hidden ??/2012 -
David Mayers ??/2012 2nd
with Stuart Howard
Dean177 ?/Nov/11 Lead
with Will Twigger
tommytuffa 18/Oct/11 2nd
with Quicko
Niall_H 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Mary S
mes32 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Felt straightforward.

Hidden 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 11/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
jiggerypokery 08/Oct/11 2nd O/S
hutchay 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jerome
mikeyg 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Mikael 01/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
liabilityliz 29/Sep/11 2nd
grp 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 24/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Anthony Dixon 29/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 12/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Simon
Hidden 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
haydng 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dave
will_benfold 30/Jul/11 2nd rpt
cameron_hall 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mes32 30/Jul/11 2nd β

Bit reachy for the short. Come back and lead this one!

harryjan 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Brian Mead
jonnobyrne 27/Jul/11 Lead β
mikeydee135 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mai Wong
simoncov 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First HVS lead.

with LJ
iforwms 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Herman
rd20 10/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Patrick
Hidden 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
gianpaolo 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome line, first HVS lead...

with Sarah
Binder 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with JT
georgel 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with anthony
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd rpt
CRiddiford 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 27/Jun/11 2nd rpt
thomasadixon 27/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Mike
hotfeet 24/Jun/11 2nd
with Ant, Wayne
waynem1985 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Karin
j miller 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

nice warm up route with some cool moves on the slab section

with elena
MD 18/Jun/11 Lead β

Felt substantially easier than four years ago

with John B, Donna
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd
bemdl 15/Jun/11 Lead rpt
stefkat 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S

nice climb, lots of gear, nice pockets

will_benfold 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Mistook the tat on the E3 peg for the thread mentioned in the guide and ended up finishing up The Bitter Battle Tears.

with Ceri
Ceridwen 03/Jun/11 2nd
JezzaCat ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Nevil
masa-alpin 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Good face climb.

with Luke A
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd rpt
nick hawkins 25/May/11 -
jezb1 25/May/11 Lead


halfwaythere 25/May/11 Lead

Memorable for opposing skyhook and HB brass off-set No.6

AlexRenshaw 23/May/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Dux 21/May/11 Lead rpt
with Andy Smith, Premal
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd rpt
Andrew Sloan 20/May/11 Lead O/S

No idea why it gets 3 stars. I had no idea where the route went after the initial 10m or even if I did the proper top part of the route.

with Steve Grove
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead O/S
gilbert 15/May/11 2nd O/S

Fantastic route, gets steep again towards the top on great slab climbing with lots of pockets

with Jonathan Percival, Pete Field
victim of mathematics 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Soft, but just about worth HVS. Lovely climbing with a grandstand finish right at the top.

with Dan
twodada 15/May/11 2nd

Seb led, did a nice job.

Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/11 2nd
Ybot Htulk 02/May/11 Lead
with Norman
gripped01 ?/May/11 Lead
with Gilbert
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
neilh 30/Apr/11 Lead
with Rob Davies, Phil Ashton
Rob Davies 29/Apr/11 2nd
with Neil Hyde, Phil Ashton
wildrover220 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ruth ND 24/Apr/11 2nd β
with Ian C
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd
mark schramm 19/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with si
Simon Allcock 19/Apr/11 2nd
Slick 17/Apr/11 Lead
Egons Issy 17/Apr/11 2nd
petegruf 10/Apr/11 Lead
cem 10/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Peter Murphy
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Goose4 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
SteWatkins ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Rob84 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Naomi Cornish
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
mark_e_lemon 27/Mar/11 2nd
stoo2k 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
andyjirvin 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

First single pitch HVS lead (somehow managed to do multi pitch HVS first). Great climb, loads of positive holds and protection, almost consistently nice and enjoyable moves, nothing too strenuous but reasonably long and delicate in places. At the top of VS 4c, bottom HVS 5a depending if this type of climbing suits you.

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mullermn 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Excellent climb, brilliant fun every time.

Binder 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S


with JT
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt
crossdressingrodney 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Sarah A
Kylie 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S

A really very nice climb, hardest part is the start I think.

katherinesydney 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

liked this a lot pockety pockety pockety

with gary burgess
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Bobling 12/Mar/11 Lead

Everything it was cracked up to be, had previously seconded it but did not remember it really. Thread-o-rama!

with Helen
Helnorris 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Another really enjoyable climbing. Loved the pockets 3/4 way up the climb and the flake at top. Nice climbing.

Hidden 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
WalnutHorse 13/Feb/11 Lead O/S
monsteratt 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Tim, Andy Abraham
Tim Sparrow 12/Feb/11 2nd
Andrew Abraham 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Felt great on lead, even with a dire hang over

mandy ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with elf
Hidden ??/2011 -
Herman Oosthuizen ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Cat Hendrie ??/2011 Lead O/S
Nevil ??/2011 Lead
with Jeremy
aipattison 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with UBMC
catty_9 30/Oct/10 2nd


with Alex Pattison
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd β
andrzej kierzek 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic route.

with Tara
culmclimberRob 16/Oct/10 2nd
with kelvin
Dawlish 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Very nice

with Rob
mullermn 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Nice climb

with Monkey
Monk 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Not sure about the grade though. Soft HVS, or possibly VS 5a? There's loads of great gear, but that flake isn't going to last long if people take falls onto gear placed there. Much better to run it out past it.

evilweed 11/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dan
Andy DJ 10/Oct/10 2nd
with james walker
fragglerock 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
will randall ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
Danny Crump 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
LiL Saz 19/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
ipegg 19/Sep/10 Lead
alek 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
SharonC1604 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Herron 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Shane Underwood
ezclimber 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with jon ripley, phil, mark ansty
ripper 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Couldn't get on this last visit, so pleased to complete the 'trilogy'. just as good as i hoped it would be.

bonelessivar ?/Sep/10 2nd O/S
leon 29/Aug/10 Lead

My first trad route on limestone for around 10 years. In the rain too!!

Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
scoot 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with The Chairman, Becky Athay
The Ivanator 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Damp throughout lower half, definitely made it feel solid HVS today.

with Lee
Big Lee 22/Aug/10 2nd RP

First HVS climb. Lower half of the route was damp and I came off near the start. Clean on second attempt. Great moves throughout.

marclloyd77 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
dean79 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
rd20 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

wandered onto A Kings Ransom

GarethHall 13/Aug/10 2nd O/S
smolders 13/Aug/10 2nd
brew_guru 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

great route,went off onto e3 before realizing,bit of down climbing and rope work...then straight up!!!

with super gav
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
daviesp2 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Tom
freemanTom 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Davies
rob1 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Alex Wellings
Bulls Crack ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with RW
Hidden 30/Jul/10 2nd rpt
hardoreVdiffBen 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Remus
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Nigel R Lewis 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Steve Kedward
Garron 24/Jul/10 Lead β
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
brockers 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route, more like the 5a described here than the 5b described in the CC guidebook.

Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd
suffolknick 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
zombie_pat 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Nick
Gregthebadger 09/Jul/10 2nd
Urgles 06/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Forgotten how good this is, but i think it is possibly top end VS 4c. It is easier than Knights Move at Burbage!

with Tradlad
Hidden 03/Jul/10 2nd
Ceridwen 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Uber Mike
eroica64 26/Jun/10 Lead
with Jim Neville
fatbuoybazza 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

old guide makes this more complicated than it needs to be, i ended up crossing left across the E3 onto the crux of the leftward HVS, nice climbing all the same..'Climb straight up' might have been a better descrip..

Jessie Rushbrooke 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with GF
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S 13/Jun/10 Lead
with jamesca
Slick 12/Jun/10 Lead
jtree03 12/Jun/10 Lead
with Brother Al
Egons Issy 12/Jun/10 2nd
danJBA 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jhawton 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fun trying to figure out the route from the guide book!!!

with danJBA
Liam_weaver 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic line with loads of gear! Brian mead second

Phil Murray 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Tanya
Andy Chubb 31/May/10 Lead

Excellent route

with Nick Gregory
greatowl 31/May/10 Lead

Had my eye on this one since my last trip to Shorn Cliff and it didn't disappoint.

Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
martin one 30/May/10 Lead rpt
with Neil Nand
ElBarto 30/May/10 2nd
Hidden 29/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead β
The Ivanator 23/May/10 2nd O/S

Nice, probably the easiest of the 3* HVS routes on this section of the crag.

with Stewart
chris sm 23/May/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd O/S
Paul Bowen 15/May/10 Lead rpt
with rob jenkins, John Crane
martinazando 03/May/10 Lead O/S

My first ever HVS lead! Great route on good rock and good protection.

al99 03/May/10 2nd O/S
Ugly Kid Jo 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Aurore
aurore 01/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jo
UndeRsoGGycrAg 01/May/10 2nd
with dan
benscarter ?/May/10 TR
Fred_Richard ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden ?/May/10 -
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
grumpyoldjanner 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with CUMC
Sam W 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Nina Jenkinson
stuart34 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
JWB 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S


jon_gill1 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Greg Pittam 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Maddy
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Poco Loco 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Excellent, good steady climbing with ample gear.

with Dave
mullermn 17/Apr/10 Lead β

Really nice climb. First HVS and enjoyed it all the way. Nce and long with loads of gear if you're creative.

petegruf 17/Apr/10 2nd
with zaheer d
Kylie 17/Apr/10 TR O/S
PerrinT 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/10 Lead
maresia 11/Apr/10 2nd rpt
stvredmond 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

brilliant. would recommend for a first HVS lead

Bobling 10/Apr/10 2nd
with sredmond
DanH9883 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
peggy_on_the_rocks 07/Apr/10 2nd
PanzerHanzler 06/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Dan Simmonds, Martin Hore
DaNo123 06/Apr/10 2nd
with martin, Hanzler
Hidden 04/Apr/10 TR O/S
Ali.B ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tobyb 15/Mar/10 Lead rpt
tobyb 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
five 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with AV
Bespoke by Nature 09/Mar/10 2nd β
with Brendan B
woodenwealth ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic, great position and even better climbing. Solid gear. Felt quite easy for the grade,

Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
chalkiesurf ??/2010 -
dean79 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S

went left of the piton and possibly make things a bit harder for myself. great climb tho

with conrad, heather
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
peaches69 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

good route, missed the thread on the right and just had a big run out, Whupps!!!!

with sarah
james.lane 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Adam
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ugly Kid Jo 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Skinny
kleinej 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Loic
Alaric 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
garywong 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd
duzinga 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Gary, Pete
gazbonutter 05/Sep/09 2nd dog
pattisonr 01/Sep/09 Lead
hilled101 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dare ?/Sep/09 2nd β
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 2nd β
critchlg 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with simon4
monsteratt 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Hills
Simon4 29/Aug/09 Lead
Rob84 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Rich P and Lou
eroica64 16/Aug/09 Lead


with Majid Soltani
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
JimR 11/Aug/09 Lead
with Guy
dswansonlow 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Patrick Timoney
Different Steve 02/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
mikehenesy ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Think I went the right way?

with Percy
Bob M 24/Jul/09 2nd
Norman_P_W 24/Jul/09 Lead
with Bob M
Trefo 20/Jul/09 Solo rpt

brilliant route climbed many times, but first solo ascent.

aged_ape 16/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with IH
AsleepOnBelay 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely stunning route, loved it. Seemed easy HVS to me, but not VS. Pretty much straight up, my old guidebook made it sound more wandering than it felt.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
saz_b 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Straightforward, not easy to read route. Easy start interesting moves on the slab. No obvious 'thread' to the right, but lots and lots of gear.

with Andy Birkett, Dugald Wilson
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
evhall 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Lovely climb - no difficulties

with Fletch + George
mattjam 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with sammy d
Bob M 19/Jun/09 Lead
Andy Fielding 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Pete Milton
dave1 14/Jun/09 2nd

Must be 3rd ascent possibly 4th - leads. Always a cracker.

with Alan Clouth
DorsetGareth 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Luke Marsden
Hidden 01/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead dnf
bpmclimb 28/May/09 Lead rpt
with Jamie Ward
jamie ward 28/May/09 2nd O/S
with Brian
tcn_2002 26/May/09 Lead
chrisallan 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
Hidden 11/May/09 2nd
mark89 05/May/09 Lead O/S
joehanks61 04/May/09 2nd O/S
with Martin Hore
Webster 01/May/09 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Dux 21/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Rob84 19/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Will Chivs
Cardi 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Aliaksei
wilchivs 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rob Dyer
Salvador 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Cardi
thomasadixon 16/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom
Chris Sansum 12/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Gary Lewin
Danhan 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead
James Marshall 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Neil Stansbie ?/Apr/09 2nd
simonw1 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Heather Lewis
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
JPGR ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
AngusB 28/Feb/09 2nd RP

struggled to get on, went off route to right halfway up.

with fayeg
summo ??/2009 -
gripped01 ??/2009 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 10/Dec/08 Lead rpt

The lefts and rights mentioned in the route description are slight - the route is not far from being straight up. The best-known of the climbs hereabouts, but not the best IMO - not the strongest line on the slab, and with a suspect large flake.

Oddjob 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Alan Murray
Hidden 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Kirill 25/Oct/08 2nd
with Paul Smith
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Lead β
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead
kylieo 17/Oct/08 2nd
with Phil
jon thompson27 ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Ian Woodroe
thin bob 28/Sep/08 2nd

excellent! great views at the top, nice flowing feel.

with Simon K
James B 27/Sep/08 Lead
with Rob
Rob Oram 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with James Booth
Steve Hill 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Joce, Steve Prior
Shauna 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
tigertim 15/Sep/08 2nd
with Tony Payne, Dave Reeve
Dave Reeve 15/Sep/08 Lead
jon thompson27 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Classic british limestone, bulge/ scoop start bit tricky to get established, superb slab climb mid height, smaller dimishing pockets final section very fiingery. Recommend for sure. Return to lead

with Ian Woodroe
sara n 08/Sep/08 2nd
with CS
SC 31/Aug/08 2nd

have to go back & lead

sara n 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with CS
Hidden 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd
Fatclimber 23/Aug/08 2nd β
Hidden 04/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Justin T 04/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 03/Aug/08 2nd O/S
riddle 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Mark Kemball 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
monkeyjumper ?/Jul/08 Lead
Lois 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Beckwitt
jon bradley 29/Jun/08 Lead β
with Huw Howells
SamStokes 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S


Rob84 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Andy F
gareth r 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Hywel
My Gravity 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ben P
eagleopus 08/Jun/08 2nd rpt

In B3s

with Gareth
jak.kelly 07/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Jessamy Linford, Lynnette Evans
max_chan 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd β
eagleopus 18/May/08 2nd rpt

In B3's

with Dave S
Derek Ryden 12/May/08 Lead O/S
with Bo
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/08 TR
Wilbur 05/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with Iain
catt 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S

A little bit confused with the route finding based on the new guide. Think I ended up at one point on the pedestal on Bitter Battle Tears before traversing back to the right place... Several distinctly tricky moves. Whatever, it was an excellent route, loved the pocket traverse I had to do (above the peg on the E3) to get to the second 'flake'.

with Will
Hidden ?/Apr/08 -
Owen W-G 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Andy G
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Eccentric 29/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Nice and easy HVS getting a bit more technical nearer the top, good route.

with Lois
Lev 26/Jan/08 2nd O/S
with Emma Ross & Patrick
Hidden 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Al Franks 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Ingrid
Alasdair88 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Ingrid
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
dts 18/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/07 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/07 -
TimPerkin 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Richard Harris
Dr Caterpillar 26/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Wayne
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
AJM 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Great climbing

with Ronan Kavanagh
gdb4060 ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Peter
dycotiles 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Eric
pelvoux 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Easy HVS 5b

with Mario
thomasadixon 11/Aug/07 2nd rpt

Great route, enjoyed it more this time!

with John_Hat
dobrek 11/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Simon K
Simon4 11/Aug/07 Lead
with dobrek
Tim W 09/Aug/07 2nd rpt
Clarky10 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Circus 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Jim Slater 14/Jul/07 Lead rpt
EeFu 14/Jul/07 2nd
tebs ?/Jul/07 2nd
with Sci
leigh 10/Jun/07 2nd
with Ed
eagleopus 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Kim
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead
MD 10/Jun/07 2nd dog
with Ed
Hidden 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Bristoldave 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ali
Urgles 19/May/07 Lead rpt
with Laura
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 19/May/07 Lead O/S
with Clive M
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
richardr ?/May/07 Lead O/S
poey50 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rowan15
Jim Slater 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Mirek
Redsnake 28/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with DrGav
thomasadixon 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Christian
twodada 22/Apr/07 2nd
with Ion
mikej 20/Apr/07 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Kirill 24/Mar/07 2nd
cem 24/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Marq 04/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Rupey 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
maybe_si 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with charlie
Ing 17/Sep/06 2nd
with Jim
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead
Andrew1 02/Aug/06 Lead
with Rachel Smith
a_d_tru 23/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Alex, Tommo
DrGav 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Middle section is like a selection of top ten best ever nut placements. Top flake feels like it's going to fall off within a few years.

with Wendy
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
The Reaper 13/Jul/06 2nd rpt
with frank mckenna
Jez 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S

one of the best hvs's around

with Wilbur
Wilbur 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Morgan
Hidden 25/Jun/06 2nd
psronan 22/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/06 Lead
CJE 11/Jun/06 2nd O/S
chris j 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Mark Davies
Chris Sansum 04/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
mikelaing ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Carolyn
cas54321 ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
James Moyle 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with T.Moores
maresia 13/May/06 Lead O/S

First HVS onsight. HVS 5b in CC Guide

Tim W 06/May/06 2nd rpt
leerybunny 06/May/06 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S

My second HVS lead!

with Colin Milton
colin milton 23/Apr/06 2nd
with chris sansum
bpmclimb 04/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Clare & John
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
gimmer ??/2006 2nd
with Franni
beardy mike ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
krikoman 26/Sep/05 2nd O/S

Although I seconded this route seemed easy for HVS

with 1_Kev Gibbs, Rick Gibbs
sam8oy 28/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with John
Stefan Kruger 19/Jun/05 Lead rpt

A fine route. When we arrived, a climber had decked it from 80 feet just to the right. He was carried out, and choppered to Frenchay. He later died.

with Sarah Porter
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
AngelaC 31/May/05 Lead
bpmclimb 10/May/05 Lead O/S
with Clare
Andy Clarke 08/May/05 Lead O/S

Excellent slab climbing.

with Dale
Bux ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
kenneM ?/May/05 Lead
with Moony
Hidden 09/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Clare Pastorius
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden ??/2005 -
Fat Tim ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Scott Rumbold
Dave Latimer 06/Sep/04 Lead O/S
rhysjones932 31/Jul/04 -
Hidden 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Brucifer 01/Jun/04 2nd
Darrell Read 14/Feb/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Neil Henson ??/2004 2nd

Seconded at least twice

with Gavin Hetherington
Mark A Humphries ??/2004 Lead O/S
with dean howard
drysori ?/Nov/03 Solo
Urgles ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
Will Gordon ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Rob Gleeson
The Reaper 19/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Will Homoky 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Dawn Forbes
lithos ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
easily amused male ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
MikeC59 27/Jun/03 TR
Digger 14/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Hidden 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S
liabilityliz ?/Jun/03 Lead
with Scotty Moore
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/03 Lead
Woody63 03/Apr/03 2nd
with Dave W
cem 22/Mar/03 Lead rpt
with Andrew Roberts, Neil Northrop
markysums ??/2003 Lead
simon kimber ??/2003 Lead O/S
Budge 05/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/02 2nd
MikeC59 18/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/02 Lead O/S
Boxy ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Lepista 19/Aug/00 Lead

With Gill

timbanton ?/Aug/00 -
DubyaJamesDubya 27/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker
lost.arrow 26/Jun/00 -
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Cedric Favre, Martin Flint
migs493 21/May/00 Lead O/S
Scotsken ??/2000 -
cem ??/2000 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
shoulders 06/Oct/99 Lead
pezzerrr 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S
kitkat78 01/Aug/99 Lead
with Hester C
John Southworth ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/99 Lead O/S
MartinN 09/May/99 2nd dog
Hidden 03/May/99 2nd
MartinN 09/Apr/99 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Apr/99 Lead
nigehughes ?/Mar/99 Lead
with Derek Rennie
Laramadness ??/1999 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 05/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with rod
Roget 09/May/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Jim Brooke 04/May/98 2nd dog
with James Latham
Budge 21/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Janet Vince, Adrian Fox
Colin Edwards ??/1998 Lead dog
with Simon Gough Brown
chris sm 01/Nov/97 2nd
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden 06/Jul/97 2nd O/S
liabilityliz 15/Apr/97 2nd
with Mark Trepte
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Tim Bateman 07/Jul/96 2nd
Gary Coggon ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Colin Dry
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Adrian Eggleton ?/Oct/95 2nd
with Jason Lynn, Tim Darlow
goi.ashmore 14/Aug/95 Lead RP
with Dee Herbert
tapley 21/Jul/95 Lead
with Martin Tapley, Simon Tapley, Alison Tapley
agagsgrot ?/May/95 2nd O/S
with Pete
Mark Salter 14/Mar/95 Lead
jmr ??/1995 Lead
with Paul Greenhow
Didymus 18/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with Steve Sims
jim_randell 30/May/94 2nd O/S
with FW
3 Names ??/1994 Lead O/S
AndySL ??/1994 Lead β
with Mark
Hidden 26/Sep/93 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/93 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/93 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Backinthegame ?/Jun/93 2nd
with John Wright
Guy ?/May/93 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1993 -
sdht ??/1992 -
whispering nic 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
Tony Buckley ?/Aug/91 -
strapless 30/Jun/91 Lead
with Ju
ericinbristol ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Eric
Hidden 16/Sep/90 Lead O/S
rogerskews 30/Mar/90 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
GordonHart ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Clare Hart
mark-abz 06/Aug/89 Lead
with Phill R
Jelly Mould Surfer 10/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/89 2nd
babymoac 03/Sep/88 -
with MTW
Martin Bennett 07/Aug/88 -
with Phil Morris
RichardMc 18/Jun/88 Lead
with Geoff Dunne
mikej 17/May/88 Lead
with Robert Smith
sadams 16/Aug/87 Lead
with Guy Townsend
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 203
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 186
Votes cast 184
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set