UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
A fine sustained pitch on superb rock. Start on a boulder at the base of a slim corner. Climb the corner and then head slightly left to slabby ground. Go up to the right of an overlap and once past it (thread), go leftwards to a flake. Climb up the wall and flakes above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The routes starts at the rightmost of the two corners in the middle of the wall, as shown in the picture in the guide book. Climb to the break in angle and aim slightly rightwards towards the downward-pointing tree branch, where the downward-pointing flake is visible, looking like a loose block from the bottom. The thread is on a ledge below this, which can also be clipped from No Muskateers before it traverses off rightwards.

From here, the leftward trending line of flakes is visible, and the final flake is the obvious highest point of rock above.

G. Gibson, M. Ward 03/Jun/1984.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Ultimate HVS ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , Shorn Cliff Nose , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 2020/21 Trips , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , First trad routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
jrose99 1 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Top flake is loose so don’t bother with it, excellent feet all left of it anyway
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top flake is loose so don’t bother with it, excellent feet all left of it anyway
laughitup 11 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Would be careful placing anything behind the flake. It's pretty loose and fear it would come off if you whipped off the next moves on to it. Does add some boldness but not ridiculous
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would be careful placing anything behind the flake. It's pretty loose and fear it would come off if you whipped off the next moves on to it. Does add some boldness but not ridiculous
khalidq 23 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A beech tree has recently fallen and now lies at the bottom of this climb. The tree was just behind the yew that forms the anchor. The anchor cord was also attached to a branch of the beech which is still at the top ready to fall. We actually moved leftwards to the next anchor along for the abseil. Be careful. Also, whilst I'm here, I wouldn't be wanting to place cams behind that flake: a wire seems like a safer choice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A beech tree has recently fallen and now lies at the bottom of this climb. The tree was just behind the yew that forms the anchor. The anchor cord was also attached to a branch of the beech which is still at the top ready to fall. We actually moved leftwards to the next anchor along for the abseil. Be careful. Also, whilst I'm here, I wouldn't be wanting to place cams behind that flake: a wire seems like a safer choice.
jessicacorbett 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Be careful with the big downwards facing flake, this moved a lot when I tried to pull on it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be careful with the big downwards facing flake, this moved a lot when I tried to pull on it
Michael Hellyer 25 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take care with the downward facing flake. I placed a cam underside and it moved when I gave it a light pull. I completely avoided the flake in the end.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care with the downward facing flake. I placed a cam underside and it moved when I gave it a light pull. I completely avoided the flake in the end.
watson23 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose/hollow sounding block near the top of this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose/hollow sounding block near the top of this
George Geo 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Download the climber's club additional topo pdf file, LWVPDS.pdf which contains all the topos, as the main book hatd no topos. The descriptions are a bit confusing and could send you the wrong way. I found 3 threads and only one juggy flake!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Download the climber's club additional topo pdf file, LWVPDS.pdf which contains all the topos, as the main book hatd no topos. The descriptions are a bit confusing and could send you the wrong way. I found 3 threads and only one juggy flake!

Logged Ascents

1986 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 177 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 272
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 251
Votes cast 246
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bitter Battle Tears

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

Loading Notifications...